Events

Hungarian wines: deserving recognition
May 2005

We are used to think that winemaking of the Eastern European countries lags behind their Western European neighbours and the New World regions.

Hungary in this respect is the prime candidate to be excluded from the set stereotype. It deserves serious international recognition not only because of its legendary Tokaji wines, a glorious re-birth of which started fifteen years ago. At present Hungary produces high caliber white and red wines. The best of them can successfully compete with the leading examples of the world winemaking.

This was the charge of optimism that I received at a Hungarian wines tasting ran at the ‘Hungary in the EU — a traditional partner of Russia’ exposition. The tasting was organized by Zoltan Vecsy, chairman of Hungarian Trade Agency. He has just brought the first shipment of cherry-picked wines from leading winemaking zones. They demonstrated both a wide variety of styles and a huge potential of Hungary as an authoritative world producer.

The tasting list was equally divided between white and red wines — for white dry, six red and two white sweet. Local and international grapes featured in them.

Malatinszky winery is one of the most promising in the southern region of Villany on the border with Croatia. Csaba Malatinszky started his wine career as a sommelier in a famous Gundel restaurant in Budapest and later opened the first wine boutique in the capital. In 1991 he bought a vineyard in Villany. Six years later he was making wines which met international standards. His Chardonnay Noblesse 2003 from Siklos has a well-judged use of oak and Villanyi Cabernet Franc 2003 with fresh, fruity and minty nose and full spicy palate is a true gem for lovers of Cabernet Franc.

Vineyards of Tornai estate lie on the southern slope of the Somlo volcanic hill in the western part of Hungary. The zone specializes in concentrated white wines, and Tornai Somloi Harslevelu 2002 is a good evidence of that.

To the north of Somlo in Pannonhalma there is an ancient abbey Pannonhalmi Apatsag where the Benedictine monks started to cultivate vines back in 996. Recent investments from a large Hungarian bank brought revival of winemaking tradition and led to the construction of a modern winery. The project was run by Tibor Gal until his tragic death. Pannonhalmi Apatsagi Tramini 2004 was offered for tasting and turned out to be a splendid example of a white wine from local Tramini grape with complex floral and honey aromas, bright apricot flavours reminding of a good Viognier, persistent minerality — the footprint of a unique terroir and superb, long-lasting, refreshing finish.

The Tokaj Pendits winery is a small family enterprise with 13.5 hectares of vineyards. Along with traditional Aszu, the winery produces modern style dry and sweet Furmint wines. Tokaji Furmint 2000 is a dry white wine with unusual aromas of violets and irises and masterfully managed acidity which can often be too high and aggressive in dry wines. In Tokaji Furmint Selection 2000 the sugar content is 54 g/l. Sweet nose reminds of a lovely bouquet of buttercups, the minerally palate is fresh and lively.

Tibor Gal’s Pinot Noir 2002 showed rather an unusual style. The great Hungarian winemaker believed that his best wines that he made at home were from this variety. Gal Tibor Pinot Noir 2002 from Eger shares nothing in common with Burgundies. This one is a powerful, alcoholic (14.5%) with intense aromas of cherries and sweet vanilla, concentrated spicy flavours and prominent, but well integrated oak.

Hungarian shores of the Neusiedl lake, the larger part of which belongs to Austria, is the location for Weninger winery. It was founded by the Austrian-born Franz Weninger. He produces one of the finest red wines in Sopron. The grapes grown are Kekfrankos, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Weninger Soproni Frettner 2002 is a blend of Syrah (35%), Merlot (35%) and Kekfrankos (30%); still a young wine with a serious potential — elegant, silky texture, good tannic structure, concentrated flavours of fruit and spices. By the way, Weninger founded a joint venture with Attila Gere, a prominent Hungarian winemaker, in Villany.

The chosen example of a famous Eger Bull’s Blood wine was Egri Bikaver Reserve 1999 from a family producer Thummerer. Still young in colour, it combined clean blackcurranty aromas with tannic flavours of juniper berries, jammy fruit as well as featured high acidity.

Apart from Malatinszky, there are several other leading producers in Villany. Polgar winery has been making high quality red wines for the past 15 years. Husband and wife Zoltan and Katalin Polgar try to match each variety to a specific plot. Unfiltered Polgar Cuvee Barrique 2000 consists of international Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and local Kekfrankos. It is made from selected harvest in outstanding years. The cuvee is a very gastronomic wine thanks to its vibrating acidity, pronounced tannins and spicy taste.

Bock winery has a long history of winemaking that started in 1850. Now it is one of the best producers in Villany creating wines from local and international varieties. Bock Cuvee barrique 1999 is made in Bordeaux style with Cabernet Sauvignon dominating (65%) and Cabernet Franc (30%) and Merlot (5%) making up the rest of the blend. Perhaps, the best simile to this complex beauty is ‘an iron fist in a velvet glove’.

An authentic Hungarian tasting is not complete without the Tokaji Aszu. Disznoko Tokaji Aszu 6 puttonyos 1993 was a truly magnificent choice. Thanks to the French investment and modern winemaking approaches the famous Disznoko winery achieved a new level of quality in 1992 an now is an example to follow. A great 1993 vintage made fantastic wines, and Disznoko Tokaji Aszu 6 puttonyos 1993 was an elegant, noble wine with a lifted, concentrated palate and exceptionally long, luscious, sweet, fruity aftertaste.