Events

Supertuscan wines: 40 years of history
Drinks plus Bars & Restaurants №7 2008

A unique event took place in Tuscany.

Seventeen estates who were first to produce Supertuscan wines in Chianti Classico organised a joint tasting of very rare old vintages and wines of the beginning of this century.

The tasting was organised thanks to a special anniversary — 40 years of Vigorello in San Felice estate. It was this wine, not Tignanello, that became the first wine of a new era in Chianti Classico. Antinori made his Supertuscan only three years later. These producers were promptly followed by a number of the leading estates which made a true revolution in the region in the 1970s and 1980s. They challenged archaic production norms and launched wines at a new quality level. They were not embarrassed by the fact that their winemaking technologies (from the choice of grape varieties to the use of aging vessels) initially didn’t allow them to classify wines with the denominated area. Ironically, these wines whose quality was superior to everything produced in Tuscany at that time could only be sold as vini da tavola (table wines — the lowest category in the Italian wine hierarchy). Fortunately, the market accepted them well, and soon the Supertuscan category conquered the world. Along with the acknowledgement and commercial success of wines on the international scene, other important consequences of the Supertuscan revolution were general improvement of wine quality in Chianti Classico and revision of production rules. Now they give winemakers freedom to choose the wine style without being “punished” for experiments and creativity.

Back to the tasting, I must say that it was quite unusual, also because the initiative came not from the consortium or any other official body. Producers voluntarily joined forces to run it. Rather than celebrating 40 years of Vigorello in a private party, San Felice offered to organise something special for all pioneers of the Supertuscan movement who made their wines before 1985. The initiative was supported by 16 leading estates, as well as a renowned Florentine restaurant Enoteca Pinchiorri and the Chianti Classico consortium. The fact that the Italians who are quite individualistic in their nature gathered together to run a unique tasting once again confirmed a high standing of the tasting’s participants. As San Felice managing director Alessandro Marchionne said, “we wanted not only to have a festive tasting, but also to give winemakers an opportunity to communicate. Thus it was decided to have a big event with a tasting and a conference”.

The title of the event was “Supertuscan wines 1968-2008: Chianti Classico pioneers yesterday and today”. It was split in two parts. There was a tasting was historic vintages and a horizontal tasting of 2001 wines. Then people discussed the role and significance of the Supertuscan movement in the context of the past and present history of the region. Winemakers were truly generous, at times having given away last bottles of the old vintages from their cellars. Giorgio Pinchiorri, owner of Enoteca Pinchiorri with an outstanding collection of wines, also made a great contribution by supplying several rare bottles which couldn’t be found in the wineries.

The following wines, presented here in chronological production order, were offered for tasting — Vigorello (San Felice), Tignanello (Marchesi Antinori), Le Pergole Torte (Montevertine), La Corte (Castello di Querceto), I Sodi di S.Niccolo (Castellare di Castellina), Cepparello (Isole e Olena), Sammarco (Castello dei Rampolla), Sangioveto (Badia a Coltibuono), Camartina (Querciabella), Concerto (Castello di Fonterutoli), Flaccianello della Pieve (Fontodi), Cabreo Il Borgo (Tenute Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari), La Gioia (Riecine), Nemo (Castello di Monsanto), Bruno di Rocca (Vecchie Terre di Montefili), Fontalloro (Felsina), Percarlo (San Giusto a Rentennano).

To be just, the tasting was missing a couple of wines which had been first produced before 1985 for a simple reason that producers didn’t have old vintages. Even without them the selection was so rare that it is unlikely to be reproduced again.

At the historic part of the tasting there were 17 wines, one from each estate, dating back to 1981-1989. These Supertuscan wines were created for different reasons. Some winemakers, like in San Felice, Castellare di Castellina or San Giusto a Rentennano, aimed to have great Tuscan wines without using international varieties. Others, for example Castello dei Rampolla, were interested in the potential of the Bordeaux grape Cabernet Sauvignon on the Tuscan soil. There were also those, like Castello di Querceto and Badia a Coltibuono who returned to great old traditions. All were united by focusing on high quality. As the tasting showed, many wines successfully stood the test of time. And the brightest “stars” of the tasting were wines from pure Sangiovese which once again proved the greatness of this grape on Chianti Classico terroirs. They confirmed that Sangiovese is capable of producing outstanding, long lived wines. Fontalloro 1986, Percarlo 1985, La Corte 1985, Cepparello 1988 and Le Pergole Torte 1981 — these all were my favourite.

Besides, several other wines preserved a great shape — Tignanello 1986 (85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc), Camartina 1981 (70% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon), Vigorello 1986 (80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon), Concerto 1988 (80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon).

The 2001 tasting fast forwarded the time for 15-20 years. It showed how far winemaking skills and understanding of the territory advanced. Grape composition was slightly or dramatically changed in some wines. Stylistic and flavour profiles of many wines also evolved. Production of Concerto by Castello di Fonterutoli was discontinued in 1994. Fontalloro, Percarlo, La Corte, Cepparello, Le Pergole Torte stayed true to their original style which became more refined. Flaccianello della Pieve and Sangioveto joined the ranks of outstanding Sangiovese wines. Tignanello didn’t change its internationally ambitious character. If my highest mark for historic vintages was 4,5 stars, in the horizontal tasting 5 wines of 16 got 5 stars — Fontalloro, Percarlo, Flaccianello della Pieve, Le Pergole Torte and Sangioveto. Classic Supertuscans, which were undoubtedly all wines at this tasting, are in the top tier of world’s winemaking.

Many various questions were discussed at the seminar dedicated to the input of the Supertuscan phenomenon in the winemaking history of the region and the country. Marco Pallanti, president of the Chianti Classico consortium and moderator at the seminar, noted that key notions of the Supertuscan movement are “revolution, commitment and passion”. The Supertuscan story wouldn’t have been so successful, had it not been for strong personalities behind it. They put to life their ideals and dreams and created a new class of original, and at times unique wines on the Tuscan land. As Vittorio Fiore noted during the tasting, Supertuscan wines were possible thanks to “our stubbornness and pride. We tried to achieve the best possible results”. Passion and commitment remain the main driving force of the leading estates today. Production of high quality wines became a new tradition that helps to link glorious past to successful present and secure future.

Supertuscan chronology
1968
Vigorello (San Felice)
1971
Tignanello (Marchesi Antinori)
1977
Le Pergole Torte (Montevertine)
1978
La Corte (Castello di Querceto)
1979
I Sodi di S. Niccolo (Castellare di Castellina)
1980
Cepparello (Isole e Olena)
Sammarco (Castello dei Rampolla)
Sangioveto (Badia a Coltibuono)
1981
Camartina (Querciabella)
Concerto (Castello di Fonterutoli)
Flaccianello della Pieve (Fontodi)
1982
Cabreo Il Borgo (Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari)
La Gioia (Riecine)
Nemo (Castello di Monsanto)
1983
Bruno di Rocca (Vecchie Terre di Montefili)
Fontalloro (Felsina)
Percarlo (San Giusto a Retennano)