Events

Vinitaly-2009. One day at the fair
www.drinktime.ru, 20 April 2009

I don’t like big wine fairs.

They exhaust both emotionally and physically. Everybody’s in a rush, everybody’s chronically late. It is impossible to keep appointments — there is always a delay here or an unforeseen meeting there. Pavilions and stands are seldom found at once, in the end the number of extra metres walked is counted in hundreds. Winery owners are torn between visitors, with no spare time for a good talk. How can one possibly discuss great terroirs or winemaking? It is good if you just taste latest vintages. But this is not enough for me. A good wine always has a good story to tell, and the better you know it, the better you understand and appreciate a wine’s character. Fairs for people like me are a waste of time.

This year I had to visit Vinitaly. It is a massive platform for showcasing Italian winemaking, as well as one of the leading international wine fairs. Along with two respected Russian importers, I was invited to speak at a seminar dedicated to the Russian wine market. I was also offered meetings and tastings with Italian producers as a part of an educational programme for wine operators from Russia, India, China and Scandinavia (Italian winemakers hope to succeed in these markets during crisis).

In the end I accepted the two-day programme that offered meetings with large producers, with whom I didn’t have previous contacts. Besides, I was also hoping to meet some friends — just for a chat rather than for a serious conversation.

The second of April, Vinitaly is open. Our group arrives to the exhibition centre earlier, and even after a long wait at a crowded entrance we manage to come to the first meeting on time. Our hosts, though, are being delayed. It’s raining, and chronic traffic jams outside the fair become even worse. In the end, though, the tasting is worthwhile. The wines are from Southern Italian estate, Terredora, in Campania. After a conflict in a famous winemaking dynasty, Mastroberardino, several family members opened an independent winery that has become the largest quality producer in Campania. Superb white Fiano di Avellino “Terre di Dora” 2008 and magnificent red Taurasi “Campore” 2003, among other distinctive wines, start our day with a bang. An excellent estate, worth exploring further. (Wines are sold in Russia, importer — MBG.)

There are a few spare minutes before the next tasting. Without wasting time, I am going to Caiarossa stand in a company of two Swedish journalists. The estate is among the most original on the Tuscan coast — an owner from Bordeaux, 16 hectares of vineyards, a dozen of red and white varieties, biodynamic winegrowing, a feng shui winery. I know its red wines quite well already, so today I am more interested to taste new whites — dry Caiarossa Bianco 2007, a Chardonnay and Viognier blend, and sweet Oro di Caiarossa 2006 made of a rare French grape Petit Manseng.

After Caiarossa we quickly march to another estate on the Tuscan coast, Poggio Verrano. It doesn’t have a separate stand, but is presented at the special exposition Trendy oggi, big domani (Trendy today, big tomorrow). If there were a chance, I would stay there for the whole day. Time, however, is enough only for Poggio Verrano. Several years ago Francesco Bolla sold famous family brand Bolla (wines from Veneto) and built first-rate estate in Tuscany. I like the way he works, as well as the style of both red wines — Dromos (a blend of 5 varieties) and Dromos L’Altro (mostly Sangiovese). Bolla presented a new label at Vinitaly — Dromos 3, a “junior brother” of two “elder” wines. Poggio Verrano is sold in Russia (importer Alianta), hopefully, the new wine will also be available soon.

We are already quite late for the next scheduled appointment. Luckily, the tasting is informal; wines are served at the bar. Cecchi producer owns vineyards in Tuscany and Umbria, and the main range is made for supermarket sales (importer CentroBalt). Company owner Andrea Cecchi comes to greet us, but there is no time for a conversation. The stand is busy with many visitors.

Time for lunch, but I can’t afford spending two hours in a restaurant. Granchiaia, a boutique winery in Chianti Classico, is next on the list. This production area is among my favourite, but I don’t know Granchiaia wines yet. I am going there by recommendation. The owner makes wines firstly for himself, and then for sale. His consultant is a respected enologist Luca d’Attoma. The quality of these polished wines is impressive, especially in Sangiovese dominated wines and in pure Cabernet Sauvignon (despite the clamour that surrounds Supertuscans with French grapes, it is very difficult to find a good example of Cabernet Sauvignon in Tuscany). Barolo winemaker Paolo Monti pops round. His wines are superb — if I find extra 15 minutes, I should really taste his latest releases.

Then there is Montemaggio, first Chianti Classico estate with Russian ownership. Valeria immediately invites to the table, offers new refreshing Montemaggio Rose 2008 and pure, supple and silky Merlot Torre di Montemaggio 2006, as well as bread with own olive oil and meat delicacies. The latest news is that a new, more laconic design of labels is being introduced, and refurbishment of the manor house is fully under way.

We are joined by Andrea Paoletti, a famous enologist who along with Montemaggio works in Ornellaia and a number of other Tuscan wineries. He owns a small vineyard near Florence. I can’t miss an opportunity to taste his wine, and we are leaving for Paoletti’s stand. Rancore is Sangiovese based, 2004 is a great vintage, but Andrea as a true perfectionist is not entirely convinced that his excellent wine shows all potential of the grape and the territory.

I am very late, and rush to join our group. Gruppo Santa Margherita is a wine holding with 8 estates in various parts of Italy, including prestigious Franciacorta winery Ca’ del Bosco. We taste two flagship wines of Santa Margherita — sparkling Prosecco “52” from Veneto and Pinot Grigio Impronta del Fondatore 2008 from Alto Adige, as well as red Sicilian (Utti) Majuri 2007 (importer Luding). CEO Ettore Nicoletto who comes to Vinitaly by helicopter, finds time to talk to me and to openly answer my tricky questions.

There is a small “window” before the last tasting — I go to Piedmont pavilion, to see Paolo Monti. There is a joint stand which resembles a noisy bar, with wines of 18 Langhe producers. My Swedish colleagues and I quickly taste the full Monti line-up — from a distinctive white Langhe Bianco 2007, a Chardonnay and Riesling blend, to amazing red Barolo Bussia 2005. Monti is a very sensitive winemaker, and he skilfully preserves a sense of place in his wines (importer Biowine).

On the way back we stop for a minute at Paolo Saracco stand. He is a wonderful man, and his Saracco Moscato d’Asti is just as lovely. I simply need a glass of his wine. My Swedish colleagues are laughing, but they don’t refuse to taste Moscato d’Asti 2008 together with a slice of sweet bread (importer Grandi Vini).

The final appointment is at Sartori, a producer from Veneto. It’s the end of the day, everybody is tired, and the tasting is not too demanding. The company has built a successful brand, wines are technically good, three quarters of production is exported (importer in Russia is Rusimport). We taste five wines from Soave and Valpolicella.

Thus finishes the first day of Vinitaly. Eleven producers, about a hundred of tasted wines. Dinner at Ca’ del Bosco, leading Franciacorta estate, is still to come. Tomorrow there will be a similarly hectic day. I am happy to meet new people and taste new wines, but two days are enough. Each estate needs attention — for me it means visits to vineyards and wineries. Alas, no wine fair can substitute them.