Events

Royal couple
«Enoteka» №74 December 2009 — January 2010

Two very difficult and inimitable red grapes were featured at a recent tasting in Langa.

If you haven’t yet guessed what they are, we are talking about Nebbiolo from Piedmont and Pinot Noir from Burgundy. “Their Majesties Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir” was the theme of a wine event organised by Italian agency Artevino together with producers from Barolo, Barbaresco and Burgundy. The name was chosen quite appropriately. Both varieties are extremely capricious and demanding to grow and to vinify, but when done properly they endow us with wines fit for royalty.

It is mission impossible to bring Nebbiolo wines to Burgundy for a big tasting. Italians, on the other hand, are honoured to present best Burgundies next to their Barolo and Barbaresco. But they needn’t under appreciate their wines, as best Nebbiolo is as great as best Pinot Noir. It was again proved a day before the tasting when I was visiting Giacomo Conterno. The estate’s Barolo Monfortino is awe-inspiring like La Tache from Domaine de la Romanee-Conti.

The event was created from a desire to have a dialogue between two illustrious wine regions. Langa and Burgundy have a lot in common. Both areas are known for unique red wines which are impossible to reproduce in other parts of the world. Only one grape lies behind the greatest red wines in each region — Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir correspondingly. Both are perfectly adapted to local natural and climatic conditions. Langa and Burgundy have a historic heritage and are distinguished by small fragmented vineyards. Finally, terroir influences are much stronger than in most of the world’s wine areas.

There was also another reason why producers from Piedmont wanted to see closer associations between Langa and Burgundy. The French region has built a reputation thanks to a strict hierarchy of vineyards crowned by premier and grand crus. These prestigious plots are known by traditional names. The consortium of Langa wines recently came up with an initiative to allow Barbaresco and Barolo producers put vineyard names on the labels. It was approved for Barbaresco in 2007 while Barolo is still waiting for a formal approval.

Introduction of additional names on Barbaresco and Barolo labels, however, will not give the same effect as had been achieved by Burgundy producers for their wines. Why? In Burgundy a vineyard is mentioned in conjunction with a certain quality level (premier or grand cru) thus giving an idea about potential quality of a wine, whilst in Langa there is no formal quality differentiation. Thus, little known Rodasca plot in Verduno theoretically has the same value as Cannubi in Barolo. This is absurd.

A consortium representative was arguing that a vineyard classification is impossible for several reasons. Apparently, Barolo is just a subzone of Langa, and it is more homogenous by natural and climatic conditions than we think. That influences from a vintage and a winemaker complicate the analysis, and that the chemical analysis of wines is very similar. You should have seen French critic Michel Bettane at that moment — he was vigorously shaking his head in protest!

Aren’t there objective parameters for evaluation, such as soil composition, vineyard exposition, altitude, sun hours, precipitation levels, etc., that should be complemented by empirical knowledge and sensory analysis? Franco Ziliani, leading Italian critic, commented from the audience that equal potential of all vineyards is nothing but illusion. Another danger is that by using clever marketing producers are able to promote vineyards which in fact have no advantages against others.

“Reputation of a cru must derive from quality of its grapes”, said Giovanni Rivetti, Fontanafredda technical director. Inherent quality can be tested by equal vinification of grapes from different plots when the same yeasts are used, when wines are fermented and aged in the same environment, when they are aged for the same duration. Sensory analysis is indispensable, too. Fontanafredda started terroir research in 1987, and Rivetti says that the company now is much better aware of potential of different vineyards.

All these discussions took place at the seminar “Cru: the synthesis of values” that had preceded the tasting. And while the Italians love to talk politics, the French left disappointed as they expected an equal dialogue for Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir.

The French gained revenge at the tasting. It was a star team of 19 estates, including Ponsot and Comte Liger-Belair, Jaques-Frederic Mugnier and Gros Frere & Soeur, as well as other excellent domaines. The concentration of grand cru wines was extremely high and diverse in geography –think Chambertin, Musigny, Clos Vougeot, Echezeaux, Romanee Saint Vivant, Richebourg, Corton and others.

Barolo producers were represented by traditionalists Cavallotto and Marcarini, neo-classic wineries Monti and Massolino, plus well known Parusso, Cordero di Montezemolo, Vajra others, 19 in total.

It is a fascinating experience to taste Burgundy and Barolo side by side. Nebbiolo is monumental, it has big, yet elegant presence, whilst Pinot Noir offers amazing depth and refinement, with its signature silky touch. Both are majestic, and both indeed deserve royal honours.

My recommendations

Burgundy
Domaine de Villaine — Bourgogne Cote Chalonnaise La Digoine 2007 / 1999
Bruno Colin — Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie 2007
Domaine Christian Clerget — Echezeaux Grand Cru 2007
Bonneau du Martray — Corton Grand Cru 2007 / 1999
Domaine Ponsot — Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvee Vieilles Vignes 2004 / 1998
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair — Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Aux Reignots 2007

Barolo
Enzo Boglietti — Barolo Case Nere 2000
Cavalotto — Barolo Riserva Vignolo 1998
Marcarini — Barollo Brunate 2004
Massolino — Barolo Margheria 2005
Parusso — Barolo Bussia Riserva 1999
Monti — Barolo Bussia 1999