Events

Sangiovese: equal through diversity
«Vinnaya Karta» №1(109) January-February 2010

In the eyes of the wine world, Tuscany is linked to Sangiovese grape thanks to historic wines from Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino.

Famous red variety also grows in other parts of the central Italian region, making Tuscan winemaking a champion in terms of the number of wines and diversity of styles. This great grape was a focus of a recent conference “Equal through diversity. Sangiovese of the future” that was held on the Tuscan coast.

The idea to organise and run a conference came from Petra, which in fact was rather unusual. This estate on the Tuscan coast is best known for its famed designer winery built by architect Mario Botta and for Supertuscan blends made with international grapes. Yet, the winery decided to address the topic of Sangiovese. As it emerged later, the event was prompted by a new wine release, Petra Sangiovese, to be presented at the conference for the first time. To the credit of Vittorio Moretti, owner of Terra Morretti, which includes several wineries, construction companies and other businesses, new wine was introduced in a low-key manner, whilst the main activity unfolded around the principal character, Sangiovese. It was also appreciated that the winery sponsored the event from own funds and invited to participate respected speakers, leading winemakers and international journalists.

The programme was divided into two parts, a morning conference and an afternoon tasting. In the morning speakers covered issues of viticulture, sociology, aesthetics, bioclimatology, as well as winemaking and wine tourism. Attilio Scienza, professor of viticulture at the University of Milan and a key Italian researcher and expert, held the audience in suspense. His presentation “Forms, expressions and mysteries of the ancient grape” revolved around the origin of Sangiovese, its links with antique myths, religious and secular practices, the grape’s genetic diversity, and its strong and weak points.

Modern scientific research lies at the core of professor Scienza’s statement that Sangiovese originates from Ciliegiolo and an unknown Calabrian variety conventionally named Calabrese di Montenuovo. Sangiovese was most probably also born in Calabria. It is related to several indigenous grapes in Calabria, Sicily, Apulia and Tuscany. Despite the southern origin, first documented evidence about the variety was found in Tuscany (1590). By mid-18th century Sangiovese which was then known as San Gioveto, was considered a typical representative of the Tuscan winemaking. In Romagna, which by a popular version also claims to be the grape’s birthplace, Sangiovese wine was first mentioned (as an aphrodisiac) in a nuptial poem in 1773.

The word Sangiovese is commonly interpreted as God’s blood (Sanguis Jovis). Attilio Scienza urges to look at other terms which possibly made up the name. The Latin roots bring to a phrase “blood from a yoke (a pole on which two vines were connected, an early prototype of pergola) on hilly land”, whilst the Etruscan words can be translated as “wine of the colour of blood for sacrifices”.

A notorious Sangiovese feature, which brings plenty of inconvenience both for researchers and winegrowers, is the grape’s genetic diversity. It is more correct to talk about Sangiovese as a family of different clones, varying by the shape of leaves and bunches, as well as by physical parameters of berries and organoleptic profile, rather than a single variety. For instance, the grape is divided into two groups by the size of berries. Big size is typical for Sangiovese Grosso which includes well known Brunello di Montalcino and Prugnolo Gentile, plus Sangiovese from Romagna, Marche and Corsica where it is known as Nieluccio. The other group is Sangiovese Piccolo, an example of it being Morellino di Scansano from Maremma.

Along with genetic multiclonality, difficulties of working with Sangiovese include the vine’s high natural vigour, compact structure of its bunch which is prone to rot, relatively late ripening, lengthy and irregular phenolic maturation, diverse phenolic profiles which often have little evolution potential, and other problems. Hence Attilio Scienza calls Sangiovese a variety that requires specialist cultivation. The grape will never become international as it succeeds only in specific natural and climatic conditions. Quality results can be obtained only through systematic approach which takes into account the interaction of sites and clones, suitable training systems, control of yields and so on. Fortunately, Tuscany offers plenty examples when these requirements are met. They result in outstanding wines some of which were featured at the afternoon tasting.

The personality of Sangiovese is multifaceted, and this diversity was celebrated at the tasting part of the event. Samples were selected by Gambero Rosso director Daniele Cernilli who was also providing the commentary. There were 12 labels in total, of which 5 were produced in classical regions (Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino), and the rest came from the dynamic Tuscan coast. Wines were tasted blind which was perfect for concentrating on the features of individual wines, without being influenced by famous names.

To my great satisfaction, wines which had already established their names as fine Sangiovese representatives, once again proved their worth. It was particularly so with Isole e Olena Cepparello 2006 that displayed superb, integrated character where elegance and strength were combined. It was one of the two wines in my personal top list. Montevertine Pergole Torte 2006, as usual, had its inimitable, captivating airy style that was easy to recognise. Brunello di Montalcino La Fuga 2004 by Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari was made with great respect for the grape and the territory, impressing with its wonderful freshness, balance, purity of fruit and a mineral frame. It is a challenge to make elegant and complex Sangiovese on the Tuscan coast; wines from there are often big and modern in style. Fattoria Le Puppile Poggio Valente 2006 deserved compliments, whilst Salustri Santa Marta 2006 was a new great discovery. The winery is located at the foot of the Amiata mountain between Montalcino and Grosseto and uses 50-year-old vines of own Sangiovese clone. Santa Marta 2006 shared the first place with Cepparello in my personal top list.