Finds

Wines & spirits 2004

Australia
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2000 Western Australia (E49, importer «Whitehall», tel. 238 8144)
In a blind tasting of Chardonnays from Burgundy, Italy, Spain, Argentina, Australia and New Zealand, organized by the importer, this wine was everyone’s favourite. It has everything required to enjoy a Chardonnay — a wonderful balance both in aromas and flavours, clean fruity tones of apricots and peaches, soft creamy taste, excellent depth and complexity and a lingering aftertaste.

Chile
Santa Ines Legado de Familia Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 1999 Maipo Valley (E28.6, importer «Whitehall», tel. 238 8144)
A very charming Cabernet Sauvignon with clean red currants and refreshing mint. A medium-bodied with velvety tannins — really enjoyable.

Viu Manent Secreto Syrah 2003, Colchagua Valley (importer «Fort», tel. 777 8040)
A wine from a new secret range with 15% of blend not announced to public. Inky purple colour with lovely black fruit and chocolate. Also try Malbec From this range which is made in elegant style with red and black fruit.

France
Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Blanc 2003, Sancerre AOC (E18, importer «DP-Trade», tel. 937 3209)
An unconventional producer of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume, Pascal Jolivet producers wines that fully reflect nature and terroir. A long fermentation and maturation on the lees give his wines richness and depth of flavours. Sancerre Blanc 2003 is an exuberant wine the dominance of sweetish pineapple aromas, silky texture, soft, appealing acidity and fresh lemony aftertaste.

Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose NV, Champagne (importer «United Distributors», tel. 728 4073)
A charming and gracious rose champagne is based on Pinot Noir that is vinified as a red wine and further blended with white wines from Chardonnay and Pinots. Possessing an expressive character of red fruit, especially redcurrants, Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose is universal in its application — from aperitif to pairing with stronger dishes like foie gras or lamb and red fruit deserts. This champagne should be part of any don giovanni arsenal, as it spells its charm on ladies without fail.

Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles 2001, Cotes-du-Rhone AOC importer «Royal Cellar»)
Negociant Jean-Luc Colombo is a rising star of the Northern Rhone. His basic red Cotes-du-Rhone possesses good regional typicity and impresses with bright fruity aromas, reminiscent of Beaujolais, and a developed savoury nuance that shows a good age.

Jean-Max Roger Cuvee G.C. 2002, Sancerre AOC (importer «Galerie du Vin», tel. 771 3471)
A wonderful example of classical, fresh, somewhat nervy nose of flowers, nettles and citruses which are expected from the wines of this appellation. On the other hand, on the palate the wine has a good body, a rounded, deep taste of ripe fruit (thanks to spending time on the lees) and a long finish.

Chateau Coutet 1994, Sauternes AOC (importer «Vinicom»)
An ancient XIIIth century chateau in Barsac producing of the best sauternes. Chateau’s style is about lightness, freshness and elegance without excessive heaviness. The rich, slightly bitter ’94 vintage has practically reached its peak. Along with traditional foie gras, the wine can also be served with chicken.

Chateau Manoir du Gravoux 2002, Cotes de Castillon AOC (importer «Vinifrance»)
Wine made by talented Stephane Derenoncourt. The vineyard is located on clay and calcareous soils. The wine was very softly extracted and kept in cuves. Merlot gives it sensuality and Cabernet Franc — the structure. La Violette, the top wine of the estate, is 100% oak aged and is made from very old vines growing on the best calcareous soils. Violets, mulberry and spicy notes. Has the features of a great wine. In future will be enriched by earthy and undergrowth notes.

Beaune Clos du Roi Chanson 1997, Beaune 1er Cru (bought in France)
After 7 years of development it is still so fresh! Will be going for a few years more thanks to excellent structure. Pure fruit with leather and earth tones make perfect harmony. Keeps on the palate in beautiful waves.

Chateau Haut-Gardere 1998, Pessac-Leognan AOC (bought in France)
A beautifully developed 6-year-old white wine at the peak of its maturity. Intense aroma of lime honey with fresh citrusy taste. A pleasant aperitif, will go well with light dishes and instead of dessert due to its lovely honey notes. Benchmark aged white Bordeaux.

La Moussiere 2002 Domaine Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre AOC (importer «Royal Cellar»)
A star producer from Sancerre with 50 hectares of biological vineyard. This Sauvignon is a sophisticated creation with layers of roses, irises, citruses, wild strawberries in the aroma. On the palate the wine is the unity of contrasts — strong but refined; fresh but creamy. Red La Moussiere 2002 made from Pinot Noir is impeccably built — soft, elegant, silky.

Taille-Pierre 2000 Michele Redde, Pouilly-Fume AOC (importer «Royal Cellar»)
A very attractive perfumed wine with sweetish aromas of exotic fruit, ripe gooseberries, flower pollen, flint. An interesting intrigue unfolds on the palate — this light wine presents itself impressively well on the palate thus creating a feeling of being full-bodied.

Domaine Jean-Claude Bessin 2001, Chablis AOC (importer «Royal Cellar»)
A beautiful white wine with concentrated golden colour. Its main feature is softness, both in the aroma of flowers and minerals and in the creamy smoky taste. A well-keeping aftertaste leaves a good impression about the wine. The wine’s strong point is its universal compatibility with all white meats, from fish to chicken and pork. Valmur 1999 from Grand Cru vineyard is made in an elegant, but full style.

Louis Roederer Brut Premier, Champagne (2150 r, importer «Vinicom»)
A fine rich Champagne with a complexity of flavours — apples, honey, toasts — and an elegant aftertaste. A noble wine for special occasions.

Germany
Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein 2003, Mosel (not imported to Russia)
An absolutely exceptional ice wine coming from a vineyard with soils consisting of pure slate. A crystal clear, organza-light Riesling which possesses such intense flavours of minerals and fruit that it seems unbelievable how such wine can exist at all.

Schloss Vollrads Erstes Gewachs Riesling Qualitatswein 2002, Rheingau (not imported to Russia)
A high-profile Rheingau estate. After a few decades of neglect, its wines are shining again on the world scene thanks to Rowald Hepp, the estate’s new managing director. The vineyards are classified as Erstes Gewachs which are an equivalent of Burgundy’s Premiers Crus. The wine, formally made as a basic quality wine, proves their high status. Elegant minerality showing the terroir is the main feature of this Riesling.

Rappenhof Guntersblumer Eiserne Hand Gewurztraminer Halbtrocken 2003, Rheinhessen (importer «Whitehall», t. 238 8144)
Rappenhof is one of the leading estates of Rheinhessen celebrating its 400th anniversary this year. Although Gewurztraminer is not the most important wine of the range, you can’t help but notice its clean, fragrant bouquet of rose petals and litchis.

GWF Granat Beerenauslese 2000, Franken (importer «Sweet NF»)
A dessert wine from selected berries with 125 g of sugar per litre. Light amber colour and luscious apricoty taste. The wine is still young but gives enough joy thanks to it rich and expressive bouquet. A special wine for special pleasure.

Hungary
Arvay & Co Szaraz Vulcanus Cuvee 2000 Tokaj (E18.00, importer «Firma Vastom», t. 290 0405)
Janos Arvay, named the best winemaker in Hungary in 2003, creates outstanding, world-class white wines in Tokaj. As reflected in the name, Vulcanus comes from a vineyard rich in volcanic soils. A full-bodied, generous, complex wine, masterfully aged in new oak barrels which add Burgundy-like elegance and creaminess.

Oremus Mandolas Tokaji Furmint Dry 2002 Tokaj ($8.60, importer «Seaman-Kro»)
Tokaji wines are seldom associated in this country with dry wines. Here’s a surprising exception. Oremus winery that belongs to a cult Spanish Vega Sicilia produces a wide range of Tokaji, from dry to super-sweet essencia. This wine is an exceptional value: with fruit aromas reminiscent of Riesling, reasonable oak, energizing freshness and impressively balanced acidity and alcohol.

Israel
Saslove “Adom” Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Upper Galilee ($32, importer «Whitehall», t. 238 8144) This is a demonstration of Barry Saslove’s philosophy about nice, non-aggressive wines that yet possess enough power to get them linger on the palate. Vineyards on volcanic soils with deep basalt layer give this special depth and complexity, and the velvet of tannins decorates the wine with additional sensuality.

Italy
Ambrosan 2000, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC (importer «Planeta Vin», t. 788 3666)
Originates from a 3 hectare single vineyard on the slope. A blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Croatina. Both botti and barriques are used during vinification. A fine wine that unites arnica, black fruit, violets, wood, leather, black chocolate. Velvety tannins and dense texture, caressing chocolaty aftertaste.

Pra Monte Grande 2002, Soave Classico DOC (importer «Planeta Vin», t. 788 3666)
A cru wine made from the oldest family vineyard that has the best exposition in the region. The nose features dill and restrained oaky notes. The elegant, fresh palate is dominated by lemons, the finish flatters with nice smokiness.

Russiz Superiore Collio Bianco Col Disore 2000, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia (importer «Simple», t. 105 5544)
Of the three vintages (2002, 2001 and 2000) this wine appealed through its calm elegance. The assemblage includes 4 varieties (Tocai Friulano, Ribbola, Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon) and is matured in oak. The result is a wine with freshness, fruitiness and lovely balance.

Castello Vicchiomaggio Riserva La Prima 1999, Chianti Classico DOCG (E39.95, importer «Whitehall», t. 238 8144)
A wonderful traditional wine of Tuscany. From old vines of 35-50 years old. Strong, full-bodied, with great structure, amazing purity and focus. Soft sweetish oak gives a nice finishing touch to the total harmony.

Castello di Poppiano Syrah 2001, IGT Colli della Toscana Centrale (info not available)
This supertuscan is a good picture of Syrah with spicy aromas of pepper and cloves, rounded sensual character, raspberry flavour and exciting aftertaste. A wine with appeal.

Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Montesodi Castello di Nipozzano 2001, DOCG Chianti Rufina (info not available)
Modern interpretation of Chianti with lots of fruit and sweet oak. Powerful, dense, rich wine with polished tannins. Drinking now, but is better to put away for 4-5 years when it will reach its apogee.

Marchesi Gondi San Giuliano 2001, DOCG Chianti Rufina (info not available)
This Chianti comes from a single vineyard, San Giuliano. Somewhat closed in the nose at the moment, it shows excellent complexity, depth and structure, has a concentration of fruit and lingering aftertaste. If you can’ wait to drink it, you should leave it in a decanter to breathe for a while.

Lis Neris Gris Pinot Grigio DOC 2002, Friuli (E25.6, importer «Whitehall», t. 238 8144)
Lis Neris belongs to top 5 Pinot Grigio producers in Italy. Wine with new dimension achieved by oak aging. Appealing vanilla and toast on the nose, rather a full, oily wine, quite broad on the palate.

Capezzana Ghiaie Della Furba Super Toscana 1999 Toscana IGT (E43.7, importer «Whitehall», t. 238 8144)
One of the first supertuscan wines made in Bordeaux style. Along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot there is some Syrah. Somewhat closed nose, with barnyard tones. Excellent structure, great concentration of cassis and dark fruit and remind of powerful Pauillac.

Tomasso Bussola TB 1999 Reciotto Della Valpolicella Classico DOC (E126.4, importer «Whitehall», tel. 238 8144)
A very concentrated sweet wine possessing such elegance that leaves a feeling of lightness and freshness on the palate. Loads of beautiful dried and preserved fruit. Ideal instead of dessert. Очень концентрированное десертное вино, которое обладает такой элегантностью, что оставляет ощущение легкости и свежести. Масса прекрасных засахаренных и сушеных фруктов. Идеально вместо десерта. 3 glasses by Gambero Rosso.

New Zealand
La Strada Clayvin Pinot Noir 2001 Fromm Winery ($52, importer «Whitehall», tel. 238 8144)
Undoubtedly, one of the best Pinot Noir producers in New Zealand; all the wines have a ‘bliss factor’ (according to Brett Crittenden, international wine expert, and you can’t deny it). This wine made from the grapes of a single vineyard, Clayvin, impresses with the concentration of black fruit and a hint of spice overlaid with sweet oak. Intensity and elegance exist in impeccable harmony. A real treasure. The second single-vineyard wine, La Strada Fromm Pinot Noir 2001 is a true classic of Pinot Noir that is a must in every Pinot lover’s collection.

Portugal
Warre’s Vintage Port 2000 (E120, importer «Whitehall», tel. 238 8144)
An early taste of a vintage port of a great year. Refinement and elegance is the style of this wine. Wonderful balance, concentrated black currants and blackberries. Although vintage port is usually drunk no earlier that after 7-8 years from its birth, this elegant port gives unmatched pleasure even now. The Symington family also owns Graham’s ports, and the wine from the same vintage is an example of strength and fruit expression and definitely needs more time to develop.

Russia
Cuvee Karsov 2003 ($16.30, «Chateau Le Grand Vostock», tel. 787 9330)
A white wine named after a general who owned these vineyards in the south of Russia in the 19th century. A blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The wine rests on the lees, and batonnage is applied. After vinification the wine is transferred to the barrels. A fine and complex nose, oakiness from the French barrels, rich fruity and floral notes, hints of smoke, nuances of spice. Rich, creamy taste is not fully developed yet, and the wine will go on for 5-6 years. First premium Russian wine.

South Africa
Beyerskloof Pinotage Reserve 2003 Stellenbosch (importer «Rusimport»)
Pinotage, a signature grape of South Africa, remains to be its controversial variety. It is demanding to work with, and the wines are too often far from ideal. But not in Beyerskloof. Winemaker Beyers Truter, nicknamed the Pinotage king creates benchmark wines. Pinotage Reserve 2003 is a balanced, concentrated, hugely appealing wine with fruit, sweet tobacco and spicy flavours.

Spain
Enate Chardonnay 234 2003, Somontano (E12.8, importer «Whitehall», tel. 238 8144)
Meant to be drunk young, this wine is produced in stainless steel vats. It got its name from a plot of vines used for wine production. With clean flavours of peaches and tropical fruits, Chardonnay 234 shows well its origin and leaves you with content.

Don Salvador Transanejo Moscatel Lopez Hermanos, D.O. Malaga (importer «OKV», tel. 727 0211)
This unique dessert wine from Andalucia is aged in the system called ‘soleras y criaderas’. The oldest wine in the system is over 50 years. Lopez Hermanos makes a miniscule amount of 450 bottles. Beautiful coffee colour with caramel rim; full, rich, creamy taste with flavours of dried fruit and light petrol notes.

Tares P.3 2001 Bodegas Dominio de Tares, D.O. Bierzo (Е78.4, importer «OKV», tel. 727 0211)
Red wine from Mencia grapes which are the best in Bierzo region of Spane. Tares Pago №3 is harvested from a single vineyard-pago with the vine age of about 100 years, — hence the name. Superb balance, thick texture, elegant notes of petals, wet soil and warm stone and harder milk chocolate. Excellent depth and length.

Belondrade y Lurton 2001, D.O. Rueda (importer «OKV», tel. 727 0211)
An excellent example of a varietal wine from Verdejo. It comes from prestigious D.O. Rueda in the geographical region of Castilia-Leon where of the best Spanish white wines are made. Aged in oak barrels, Belondrade y Lurton is a stylish, complex wine with lovely fruit and great balance between fruit and oak.

Emilio Listau Miguel Merino Reserva 1996, Rioja (E46, importer «Whitehall», tel. 238 8144)
An elegant, delicious wine with extra depth and dimension. Classical Rioja in modern making.

La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza 1996, Rioja (E22.5, importer «MB Group Impex»)
Leather, mushrooms, earth on the nose. Sweet taste, lots of oak. Here Tempranillo reminds of Burgundy Pinot Noir. A charming traditional wine of Rioja.

Freixenet Brut Nature Vintage 1998, D.O.Cava (600 r, importer «Eppard»)
A vintage Spanish cava made by traditional champenoise method. A very rich mature wine with beautiful balance, a refined mix of floral, fruity and creamy tones. A mouthfilling finish lingers on the palate.

USA
Niebaum-Coppola Rubicon 2000, Napa Valley, California (not imported to Russia)
Undoubtedly, an outstanding wine of California showing all the best features of the sources where it came from. Fine, noble character, elegance, terroir — a great example of what can be achieved with Meritage wines in America.

Bonny Doon Ca’ del Solo Big House Red 2002, Santa Cruz, California (not imported to Russia)
Randall Grahm believes that Mediterranean climate at his vineyard is ideal for growing southern grapes. This wine made in Cotes-du-Rhone style with 12 different grapes is an ideal drink for a big company — easy going and well matching just about anything on the table. The connoisseurs can’t miss serious Le Cigare Volant and Old Telegram.

Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, Sonoma, California (importer «Muscat-12»)
A hedonistic wine. So elegant, polished and deep that you want to sit down and enjoy every drop. Perhaps, the best Cabernet from Alexander Valley in Sonoma.