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Finds
 Wines & spirits 2005
Australia
Torbreck The Factor 2002, Barossa Valley (importer «United Distributors»)
Means ’boss’ in Scottish. According to export manager Rupert Dean, this is ’a quintessence of the Australian style Shiraz’. The grapes are picked from 100-145 year old vines near Marananga. They give the brightest and most intense character. The wine will easily live for 15-20 years. Opaque black colour with thing purple rim, it is closed on the nose for now, but strikes with its power, balance and stunningly deep, complex finish.
d’Arenberg Vintage Fortified 2002 McLaren Vale (importer «Fort»)
Although d’Arenberg is better known for dry wines, this port-style example has a right for special recognition. Amazing floral aromas. Apricots, dried fruit, raisins and minerals — complex and bright.
Austria
Kollwentz-Romerhof Steinzeiler 2002, Burgenland
Cuvee with Blaufrankisch (80%) , Cabernet Sauvignon and Zweigelt. Aromas of ripe dark fruit are underlined by black chocolate. Strong, with polished tannins, excellent concentration. Fresh finish with cedar notes. Modern style.
Moric Blaufrankisch Alte Reben Neckenmarkt 2002, Burgenland
Historic Neckenmarkt vineyard is planted to 35-85 year old Blaufrankisch vines. Impeccable elegance, silky touch. Grace of fruit and spices, fine acidity. A wine of great harmony.
Ernst Triebaumer Blaufrankisch Mariental 2002, Burgenland
Harvested from 45-year old vines on a single vineyard. Dark, opaque colour, with intense aromas of blackberries and minerally character. Dense, concentrated, with inner power. Torbreck of Burgenland.
Claus Preisinger Pannobile 2003, Burgenland
Barrel sample, blend of Zweigelt (85%) and Blaufrankisich (15%). A seductive wine. Aromas are dominated by red fruit and refreshing minty notes. The palate is filled with juicy ripe cherries and complex nuances. Feeling of mellowness and roundness with a strong structure. Deep, sensual aftertaste. Already drinking well.
Schloss Halbturn Pinot Noir 2003, Burgenland
Undoubtedly, a serious Pinot Noir made by canons of classical Burgundy. Sexy aromas of ripe cherries and spices. Full-bodied, rich, complex, with silky tannins and masterfully integrated notes of wood. Long finish, disclosing a multitude of fruity, spicy nuances.
Heidi Schrock Cuvee Vogelsang 2003, Burgenland
An interesting blend of local and international varieties — Welschriesling, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Gelber Muskateller and Sauvignon Blanc. Reflects typical characteristics of the vintage. At least spatlese level (with 20 g of residual sugar), the wine features fresh, full palate of yellow and green apples underlined by spicy notes and mineral base.
Stolzerhof-Tschida Welschriesling BA 2002, Burgenland
Intensive but not tiring nose of fruits confits with notes of milk chocolate and honey. A very fresh palate of lime marmalade with complex fruit nuances. The finish starts with bright spicy-peppery notes.
Feiler Artinger Ruster Ausbruch Pinot Cuvee 2002, Burgenland
Blend of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, fermented and aged in new oak barrels. Elegant, deep, multilayered, with notes of pears, apricots, mango. Nuances of vanilla and coffee, mineral tones. Leaves the feeling of freshness and lightness with 243 g of residual sugar.
Gerhard Nekowitsch Gruner Veltliner Eiswein 2004, Burgenland
An ice wine from classic Austrian white variety. Bright character, with aromas of tropical fruit, fresh, intense flavours of pineapple and caramel aftertaste. Unusual, but very appealing.
Elfenhof Classic Gewurztraminer Auslese 2000, Burgenland (not available in Russia)
The whole range of Ernst Holler’s wines which he brought to Prodexpo had a striking consistency in quality. I especially liked his Gewurztraminer, not the most typical variety for this part of Austria. Although of a respectable for a white wine age, this Gewurz charmed with its fresh, gentle and focused aromas.
Chile
Leyda Pinot Noir Lot 21 2003 Leyda Valley
So far, this is the best example of the variety that I’ve tasted from Chile — very clean, focused aromas, ripe, but not overripe fruit, great depth and complexity, red and dark fruit on the palate, a long, sensual aftertaste.
Michel Laroche/ Jorge Coderch Piedra Feliz Pinot Noir 2001 Valle de Casablanca
Chilean Pinot Noir in the French interpretation by Michel Laroche. Flattering, pure aromas of red currants. Rather full-bodied, with the weight from toasted oak, but a lovely minerality in the finish. You won’t find Burgundian complexity, but the wine will certainly charm you.
Montes Alpha Chardonnay 2003 Casablanca Valley (importer «DP-Trade»)
A well-know creation by Aurelio Montes that continues to give pleasure through the aromas of freshly made butter and generous, but elegant tropical fruit flavours interwoven with perfectly integrated oak, and intense creamy aftertaste.
France
Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere 2004, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe
A barrel sample. The flagship wine of Count Stephan von Neipperg refutes the judgement of 2004 as of an average year. Over 50% of Cabernet Franc in the blend. This is a fresh, powerful, spicy, deep wine — with enough characteristics to make it one of the best examples of the vintage.
Chateau Lynch-Bages 2002, Pauillac (leading importers)
At the summer tasting of Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Lynch-Bages was one of everybody’s favourite — stylish, with bright fruit, solid structure and velvety tannins.
Chateau Angelus 2002, St Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classe (leading importers)
Another wine that was high on everybody’s lists from Grand Cru tasting was Angelus which struck with its modern approach. Intense ripe black fruit and sweet oak on the nose. Silky, bit spicy flavours, good acidity. A concentrated wine. Strong finish, sweet oak, minerality, black chocolate.
Domaine Louis Max Mercurey Les Caudroyes 2002, Mercurey (importer «MBG»)
A lovely wine that shows the essence of Burgundy in a great year. Creamy, peachy, honeyed where all elements are inseparably bound together, very harmonious. A wonderful example of Mercurey.
Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2002, Chablis Grand Cru (importer «DP-Trade»)
Christian Moreau creates amazingly clean wines which can be seen as modern interpretation of Chablis. Le Clos, however, is leaning more towards Burgundy with more creaminess. But the character shows distinctive minerality of Chablis.
Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 2002, Pauillac (importer «Vinicom» and leading importers)
Baroness Philippine de Rothschild brought just bottled wine to the ‘Label and Art’ exhibition in Moscow and St Petersburg. Mouton 2002 confirms those high reviews made by critics at the en primeur tasting. Majestic, from ripe fruit, voluptuous, velvety, luscious fruit, great depth, strong tannic structure — in a word, a great wine.
Chateau Branaire-Ducru 2000, St Julien (importer «Planeta vin»)
A very worthy example of the famous 2000 vintage in Bordeaux. An explosion of ripe fruit, great balance and elegance co-exist with powerful structure and ripe tannins. Be patient and let the wine accomplish its full peak that is likely to happen in 15 years.
Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc 2002, Pessac-Leognan (importer «Planeta vin»)
This chateau is equally successful with its red and white wines. This white made by burgundian technique of barrel fermentation and lees aging is noted by attractive soft, rich, but lively flavours and soft finish with light spices.
Chateau Belair 1989, St Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classe (importer «DP-Trade»)
According to Edouard Moueix of Etablissements Jean-Pierre Moueix, this wine is a creation of a ‘crazy genius’ Pascal Delbeck. It evolved in a magical manner when a fine mineral structure slowly acquires volume and weight. A truly feminine wine — graceful, refined, fresh, with that inherent terroir feel.
Prieure Roch Nuits St George Clos des Corvees Premier Cru 1999
Prieure Roch is a Burgundy producer who follows biodynamics. The wine will probably be not to everyone’s liking, but it certainly has its own charisma. Shows first signs of development and, naturally, possesses a character of its terroir.
Marcel Deiss Vin de terroir complante, Bourg 1999 Alsace AOC (importer «United Distributors»)
Marcel Deiss personally poured his wines to guests at the mini-fair of Alsace and Rhone in the French embassy in February. As the name implies, this truly terroir wine stood miles apart even among many worthy wines of the fair. It allowed to taste the minerals of Bourg and had a very dense texture.
Dopff & Irion Cremant Brut NV, Cremant d’Alsace AOC (not imported to Russia)
On the same fair Dopff & Irion offered a lovely sparkling wine — light, refreshing, focused, mineral.
Louis Latour Les Quatre Journaux Romanee St Vivant Grand Cru 2003 (not available in Russia, Louis Latour importer — «Vinicom»)
This bottle and a few more wines of atypically hot 2003 vintage Louis Latour brought with him to Moscow in frosty February. He noted that 2003 wines are made in an interesting, but very unusual for Burgundy southern style. Bright purple colour, with luscious violets and red flowers perfume, Les Quatre Journaux confirms the character of the renowned cru with, perhaps, more expressiveness. Only 6 barrels made, that is 150 cases.
Germany
Lamm-Jung Erbacher Honigberg Riesling Spatlese 1990, Rheingau
For traditional Riesling & Co. tasting the German merchant Wineconsale brought several aged wines. A fifteen-year-old dry Riesling by Lamm-Jung didn’t loose any fruitiness in flavours, and the age was little given away by fine petrolly note. The finish was underlined by light minerality.
Hungary
Pannonhalmi Apatsagi Tramini 2004, Pannonhalma (importer «Vengertorg»)
From ancient monastery Pannonhalmi Apatsag, the project was managed by Tibor Gal until his tragic death. A splendid example of a white wine from local Tramini grape with complex floral and honey aromas, bright apricot flavours reminding of a good Viognier, persistent minerality — the footprint of a unique terroir and superb, long-lasting, refreshing finish.
Disznoko Tokaji Aszu 6 puttonyos 1993, Tokaj (importer «Vengertorg»)
A great 1993 vintage made fantastic wines, and this example is an elegant, noble wine with a lifted, concentrated palate and exceptionally long, luscious, sweet, fruity aftertaste.
Italy
Le Vigne di San Pietro Duecuori 2003, Veneto IGT (not yet imported to Russia)
Winemaker Carlo Negozzi showed me several of his wines (dry white, rose, red; sweet). All were greatly attractive — it was difficult to choose only one favourite. Here a dessert Moscato Giallo wine is featured. Sweet vanilla merges with aromas of tea rose, yellow plums and litchi. Of medium weight, with fresh and dried apricots, tasty caramel on the palate. Flavours transform into an aftertaste, where apricots and caramel amazingly combine with freshness.
Gaja Barbaresco 2001, Barbaresco DOCG (importer «DP-Trade»)
The flagship wine of the most authoritative Italian winery. Blend of 14 vineyards in Barbaresco. The nose reminds of minerals mixed wiht dried herbs. On the palate you find cool freshness with velvety feel of long tannins. Not heavy. I’m always amazed at the masterful skill to find balance between flavours of wine and oak barrels. The aftertaste gives the same impression as if the wine was still in your mouth.
Viviani Amarone della Valpolicela Classico Casa dei Bepi 2000, Amarone della Valpolicela Classico DOC
Of the range of amarones on the October tre bicchieri tasting of Gambero Rosso this wine impressed by its appealing modernity. Finely unfolds on the palate. Elegant, finely nuanced. Soft energy with inner power.
Le Potazzine Rosso di Montalcino 2002, Rosso di Montalcino DOC
A small family winery producing excellent brunellos. Rosso gets on the market before brunello, and Le Potazzine offers one of the best examples of this class of wines. Red roses and cherries in aromas. Easy to drink, good body and structure, very persistent, balanced finish with notes of cherries and dark fruit.
Podere S Marie Brunello di Montalcino 2000, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
An exceptionally artisanal wine, in spirit reminiscent of great Burgundy tradition. Fine nuances of development in the aromas at the background of violets. Impression of certain saltiness — like in fine red burgundies. A fine wine — elegant, harmonious, continues its character in long aftertaste.
Vie di Romans Vieris Sauvignon 2001, Friuli Isonzo DOC (importer «Simple»)
Gianfranco Gallo of Vie di Romans creates remarkable Sauvignon Blanc that can live over a decade in the north-eastern Italy. Minty line in aromas. Balance of fruit and minerals. Grapefruit, peaches, gooseberries. Fatty taste. Soft, persistent aftertaste. Unusual waxy, propolis tone in the finish.
Alois Lageder Lowengang Chardonnay 2001, Sudtiroler Alto Adige DOC (importer «DP-Trade»)
The Moscow edition of VinItaly fair featured a master class run by outstanding Italian producers. Alois Lageder’s Chardonnay impressed as an original interpretation of the grape thanks to the fine poise of the wine, minty aromas and ideally interwoven oak nuances.
Antinori Cervaro dulla Sala 2002, Umbria IGT
An excellent blend of Chardonnay/Verdello/Malvasia in Umbria. Of light golden colour, it plays with floral, exotic fruit and citrus flavours, showing noble minerality in the background.
Calatrasi Terre di Ginestra Nero d’Avola 2003, Sicilia IGT (importer «Svarog-M»)
A Sicilian producer Calatrasi, that also owns vineyards in Puglia and Tunisia, is especially proud of this wine made from traditional Nero d’Avola grape. It demonstrates the individuality of the grape that reminds of southern terrains, ripe black fruit and boasts the complexity of flavours enhanced by bright oak that needs time to soften.
New Zealand
Palliser Estate Chardonnay 2004, Martinborough (importer «Whitehall»)
Intense, complex aromas. Creamy taste. A very strong wine. Fresh, well defined acidity. Very long finish. A memorable wine.
Portugal
Port Taylor’s Quinta de Terra Feita 1988 (importer «DP-Trade»)
In general Quinta de Terra Feita style is about fullness, body and power which give intense colour and rich taste. 1988 vintage is at the peak of development and leaves in memory nutty taste on the background of intense fruit. Balance, distinctive character and maturity are main features of Quinta de Terra Feita 1988.
Port Ramos Pinto Quinta da Ervamoira 1994 (importer «Vinicom»)
Quinta Ervamoira 1994 is a blend of 60% Touriga Nacional that gives wine elegance, soft tannins and a lovely colour, and 40% Tinta Roriz for sensual gentleness. Floral, fruity and menthol flavours turn into long, slightly spicy aftertaste.
Port Warre’s Quinta da Cavadinha 1988 (importer «Whitehall»)
Cavadinha is about elegance and perfume behind which mineral terroir taste is hidden. 1988 vintage demonstrates mature aromas with hints of cedar, fine silky taste and spicy, increasing in force aftertaste with mineral notes.
Spain
Alenza Gran Reserva 1999, DO Ribera del Duero (importer «DP-Trade»)
Alejandro Fernandez for the first time visited Moscow this summer. And was stunned. I, in turn, was impressed with his love for life and his wines. Like this extraordinary Alenza. During fermentation the wine is left with stalks which helps it acquire anoather dimension and a very long life, yet the wine keeps its wonderful freshness.
Castillo de Perelada Gran Claustro 2001, DO Emporda — Costa Brava
Having returned from Spain, Vladislav Volkov, vice-president of Independent Wine Club, kindly opened this bottle for professional tasting. What a find! This is a blend of Cabernet/Merlot with additional Carignano and Garnacha. Complex, noble aromas, including fresh bayleef, balsamic notes, black fruit, licorice. Fresh palate, cassis. Silky, very smooth. Sweet, elegant aftertaste spreading over all palate. A sexy wine.
Switzerland
Monti Malcantone Rosso dei Ronchi 2003, Rosso del Ticino DOC
ÝThe wine surely deserves its gold medal on the the first international competition "Emotions from around the world: Merlot and Cabernet together". Fabulous aroma combining violets and fresh black fruit continues in deep, not heavy palate with beautiful, well ingegrated toasty oak and powerful aftertaste.
USA
Dominus 1994, Napa Valley (importer «DP-Trade»)
During his winter visit in Moscow. Edouard Moueix of Etablissements Jean-Pierre Moueix, the leading negociant company of the Bordeaux Right Bank, presented not only wines of St Emilion and Pomerol, but also the Californian Dominus. It serves an absolute proof of how great can Napa Valley terroirs be when treated with skill and love. With the dominance of Cabernet, Dominus (from the Latin — ‘god’) turned out to be such a sensual wine and was caressing the palate with such gentleness, that the impressions from it can only be described as ‘divine’.
Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir 1997, Oregon (importer «Whitehall»)
Veronique Drouhin of the family of respected winemakers in Burgundy showed what Pinot Noir can achieve in the States. Of bright, clear ruby colour, the wine features clean fruity aromas and flavours which are developing towards savoury profile. French-influenced, but not a Burgundy.
Sine Qua Non "The Straw Man" 2000, California (importer «DP-Trade»)
A Semillon straw wine made by an eccentric character — Mafred Krankl of Sine Qua Non. Very dense texture and impressive taste made Parker call the wine ‘an elixir’ and give it 99 points.
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