Other drinks

Tequila boom
«Cigar Clan» №5 (29) October-November 2006

Tequila is a legendary Mexican national drink –it’s impossible to imagine twists and turns of Mexican history without it.

Tequila is connected with Aztec beliefs and conquistador invasions, Mexican revolution and American tourist boom. It is the country’s main export product, but its domestic popularity remains just as high.

Tequila is the first Northern American product obtained by distillation, and the first commercial alcoholic beverage of the continent. Its history starts from pre-Hispanic times when local Indian tribes fermented agave juice and got pulque — slightly frothy milky-coloured beverage with 4-6 degrees of strength. The plant itself was used in everyday life — for several thousand years agave was the source of food and fibre.

Tequila’s father was mezcal, a product of pulque’s simple distillation. The Indians didn’t know the technology. It was brought by the Spanish who conquered Mexico in early 16th century. Several decades later mezcal production started to bring profits. It was known as mescal-brandy, agave wine, mescal-tequila and, finally, simply tequila — after the name of a small settlement in Mexican state of Jalisco.

Linguists still cannot agree on the origin of the word ‘tequila’. In the Aztec language it means place of gathering of plants or place of wild herbs. There are sources which consider tequila a corrupted version of Spanish tetilla — breast (in the form, it reminds of a volcano where agave plantations were grown). They also say that a Tiquilos tribe lived there which gave name to the settlement. All versions are suitable — choose what you like best.

Pulque distillation started soon after arrival of conquistadors. The Spanish were used to have meals with alcoholic beverages: water in Europe was unsafe. Conquistador Cristobal de Oсate in his first letter to King Carlos V wrote about agave: “From these plants they make wine and sugar, which they also sell”.

Commercial production of tequila was launched in 1600 when Don Pedro Sanches de Tagle, Marquis of Altamira, built distillation facilities and specially cultivated agave. Thanks to a favourable location en route to the Pacific port, in the 18th century tequila was successfully exported to the markets of the Old and New World. In 1785, however, Carlos III government decided to give priority to Spanish wines and spirits and banned alcohol production in colonies. The ban lasted for about ten years, although local production did not stop, but literally went underground — tequila’s raw materials were processed in underground cellars (the practice is still kept today in mezcal production).

In the end authorities realized that taxes are a more suitable way of control than bans, and issued a first official license for tequila production in 1795. Jose Maria Cuervo was the first licensed producer. Jose Cuervo brand still exists and is considered oldest, and the company became the largest Mexican tequila producers with a huge export market.

In the 19th century Mexico was going through turbulent times — it was fighting for independence, then warring with the United States. Love for tequila remained common between the opposing sides. New tequila factories were opened. They were named after the owners, with adding –eca in the end: La Floreca, La Martineca, La Gallardeca, La Quintaneca. Later some production plants were renamed with the purpose to underline some values — such as La Preservancia (“Perseverance”) or La Constancia (“Constancy”).

By the end of the century thanks to network of railway roads tequila conquered the North American market and was exported to Europe. At the same time the product of Jalisco state — mezcal of Tequila — was singled out in a special category, similar to the concept of cognac — a brandy from a certain area of France that a right for a special name. Many companied modernized production and started to bottle tequila. As a result the quality went up and its popularity continued.

New twist of history led to a 10-year-long Mexican revolution when tequila became a symbol of national pride. It was a permanent attribute of rebels and heroes who fought for independence. Los Arango and Siete Leguas are the two names which remind of legendary Pancho Villa (his real name — Doroteo Arango) and his horse. Factory owners, though kept silent that many revolutionary armies confiscated tequila without reimbursing the loss. More serious problems occurred with the Great Depression when nearly all factories were closed.

In 1930s the industry was gradually restored, largely thanks to the Prohibition in the USA (tequila was a prime products for smugglers) and World War II when there was no supply of alcoholic beverages from Europe. Those were the years when Margarita was invented — the most popular cocktail of the further generations. Tequila consumption continued to grow in the sixties, and the Olympic Games in Mexico in 1968 gave a further boost to world sales. Nowadays tequila enjoys a period of boom. Thanks to American tourists it was no longer considered a simple beverage, but turned into a category of trendy club drinks.

Tequila stays separate from other spirits because it is made not from grain or grapes, but from agave. Only one out of 136 varieties of the plant is permitted for tequila production — tequilana weber azul, or blue agave. Plantations are usually located on the highlands. Some claim that the best tequila comes from plants on the slopes of the former volcano, other talk about advantages of mountain plateaus where agave grows bigger.

Agave cultivation for tequila production is a very lengthy process. The plant needs at least 8 years, sometimes twelve, to reach a good age — the older it is, the better the quality of sugar. Many plantations are tended by hand. Fields are not irrigated, plants get water in the rainy season only.

The heart of agave that looks like a big pineapple is used as raw material for tequila. It weighs up to 70 kg in a grown plant. During harvest the heart is cut from the stem and leaves are removed. The skill of harvesting is passed from father to son. Sometimes three generations of a family work on one field. Agave matures unevenly so it can be harvested all year round. A good picker gathers up to a tonne of hearts per day.

Traditional distilleries — tequileros — soften agave in steam rooms or bake for three days. Stone or brick ovens are called horno — thus the name of tequila Sauza Hornitos. Slow baking softens fibres and allows to keep natural flavours better.

Then agave is minced, mixed with water and left to ferment. For a quick fermentation some producers add cane sugar — such tequila is eventually known as mixto (and often bottled outside Mexico). The base product with 5-7 percent of alcoholic strength goes through a double distillation.

After distillation tequila is clear. It gets colour from barrel aging or from additives of caramel (in mixto) or wood essence. Most producers break the alcoholic strength down to 40 percent by adding water.

Tequila reposado and anejo is aged in oak barrels, usually after bourbon, but also after sherry, whisky and cognac. Tequila blanco remains in stainless steel vats before bottling or is bottled straight after distillation. As a rule, the final product is blended with tequilas from other barrels to keep the style of the drink. Tequila made from agave only, must be bottled in Mexico and labeled with words Hecho en Mexico.

Traditionally tequila is drunk from a tall narrow shot glass with a thick base called caballito (“little horse” from Spanish). According to the legend the caballito shape comes from a bull’s horn, historic glassware. Connoisseurs say that aged tequila is better served in a cognac glass — it opens the bouquet of the spirit.

To assess tequila quality and flavours, it is drunk neat — without lemon, salt and ice — and without hurry. Some prefer a cold drink, but the flavours of tequila will not be discernible. It should really be of a room temperature.

There is another common way — to drink sangrita after tequila, a non-alcoholic drink of tomato and lime juice and hot chili pepper. Sometimes sangrita is so strong that can beat tequila in the effects of the drink.

The club culture has its own approach, known as lick, sip, bite — salt, tequila and a quarter of lime.

Tequila production and consumption has been subjected to many myths. Some people take them for true facts. Here are the most common misconceptions.

There is a worm in tequila. A genuine Mexican tequila never has worms — they are put into some American-bottled brands of tequila mixto to catch attention and raise sales. Sometimes a worm can be found in certain types of mezscal — a product of simple distillation. You may also get a small bag with a dried worm, salt and chili powder tied to a mezcal bottle.

Tequila is made from cactus. Agave heart is the raw material for tequila production. The plant belongs to lilies. Although agave looks like a cactus and shares its habitat, it has a different life cycle and botanic family. In Mexico there are 136 varieties of agave, but only blue agave can be used for tequila.

Tequila and mezcal are the same thing. Any tequila is a mezcal but not any mezcal is a tequila. Tequila is made only of one agave variety, while mezcal — of five. Tequila production is based on double, sometimes triple distillation. Mezcal is distilled only once (except for some expensive brands with double distillation). There are other technological differences between their production.

Tequila contains narcotic elements. The myth is connected with false assumption that mezcal means mescaline (visual and auditory hallucinogen present in some cacti growing in Mexico). There are no psychedelic drugs in agave.

All tequilas are the same, only brands have different names. Tequila, like whisky or cognac, is differentiated by producer, technology and habitat. Temperature, soil, plant age, equipment, production method and aging influence the drink. There is also a big difference between tequila styles — from blanco to reposado and anejo.

Tequila styles
Blanco: Unaged
Joven/Oro: A Blanco with caramel tinting
Reposado: Aged for between two and twelve months in oak vessels
Anejo: Aged for at least 12 months in oak no larger than 600 litres
Ultra: Aged for at least three years in oak no larger than 600 litres

A precious bottle
In July this year Tequila Ley sold a bottle of a popular Mexican drink for a record price of 225,000 dollars. The price is justified by a unique vessel encrusted with two kilograms of gold and platinum. The rarity was bought by an American connoisseur of wines and spirits for his rich collection. Tequila Ley applied to the Guinness book of records with a fact of selling a bottle of spirit with the highest price.

Tequila under UNESCO protection
Mexican plantation of blue agave, material for tequila production, are included by UNESCO in a list of world heritage and are under protection. The organization listed not only agave fields, but also local factories producing a popular spirit. According to UNESCO experts, the territory between Tequila volcano and Rio Grande valley is a unique historic landscape with preserved examples of pre-Hispanic and colonial architecture and ancient workshops for production of agave drinks.

Who invented “Margarita”?
You can’t talk about tequila without mentioning “Margarita”, the most popular cocktail in the world. Its basic recipe includes lime juice, Cointreau (or any other orange liqueur) and, naturally, tequila. “Margarita” invention is contested by several stories in Mexico and outside, but the following versions are told most often.

The Negrete family says that Daniel Negrete with his brother opened a bar at Garci Crispo hotel. A day before brother’s wedding Daniel prepared a cocktail for the bride Margarita as a wedding present. It happened in San Diego in 1936.

“Margarita” was invented in 1942 by a Texan barmen Pancho Morales in Tommy’s Place bar. They say that a lady ordered “Magnolia” (brandy, Cointreau and an egg yolk with champagne). Morales thought it was too fanciful. Instead he offered a new creation — “Margarita”.

In 1947 or 1948 “Margarita” was invented by barmen Carlos ‘Danny’ Herrera from Rancho La Gloria bar for a fledgling actress Marjorie (Margarita) King who was allergic to most other kinds of alcohol. She could drink tequila but didn’t like it neat or even with lemon and salt. Herrera began experimenting and made a blend of three parts of white tequila, two parts of Cointreau and one part of fresh lemon juice.

Another story is connected with Margarita Sames, a Texas socialite who offered the cocktail for guests at her Acapulco villa in 1948. Tommy Hilton was present at the party. Later he included the cocktail in the bar menu of his renowned hotel chain.