Pairings

Vinous chicken
«Gastronom» №5(28) May 2004

If we had to choose one product which is invariably popular in the cuisines of the world, it will probably be the chicken.

From Far to Middle East, in both Americas, North and South, in Europe and Africa, and practically in any place on the planet chicken will be present in the pan, or the wok, or the tandoor of every self-respecting cook.

Is it good for the wine? Certainly, as the variety of chicken dishes gives us a lot of room for action when choosing wine partners. Limiting yourself to traditional white wines only can deprive you of many pleasures and, at times, seriously alter the taste of wine. The time has come to remember that democratic chicken equally well likes the wines of all colours. Here we will talk about the most harmonious marriages.

Baked chicken remains a favourite dish of all times and people. Simply baked with a garnish of light vegetable salad, it will be nicely suited with rich Chardonnay from Burgundy or New World countries — Chile, USA, Australia, South Africa.

Being a classical dish, it can be easily varied with the help of herbs and other flavours. French Pinot Gris, Riesling or Gewurztraminer are the best matches to bring forward the aromas of some herbs, such as thyme, thanks to their high aromatics and good concentration. Tarragon which can hardly spoil chicken causes problems, though, with wine because of its anis flavour. The answer can be found in white Viognier or lightly chilled red Beaujolais and light Pinot Noir from Burgundy, Cabernet Franc from the Loire (particularly Bourgueil) or fruity Italian Chianti. They can also be used if when baking chicken you use fruit for stuffing or in sauce.

When the no less tasty remains of cold chicken are consumed the next day, they can also become a feast with a bottle of good rose or unfinished yesterday’s red wine (though I doubt that you will have any left).

In cold weather when the stomach demands something more substantial, chicken is often cooked under various sauces. If you serve a usual baked chicken with a thick sauce, then for wines you should look in the red camp. Medium-bodied Pinot Noir, expensive Beaujolais, such as Moulin-a-Vent and Italian Valpolicella and Dolcetto will perform well.

For complex dishes with a wide spectrum of tastes and flavours the choice of wine will depend upon the dominating taste. Just remember one advice — the richer the sauce, the more acidic the wine should be to cut through rich food.

Burgundy’s coq-au-vin stewed in red wine with bacon, onions, mushrooms and garlic, reaches its apogee with soft silky examples of the local Pinot Noir which is gifted with earthy-spicy aromas. On the other hand, coq-au-vin is made in Alsace, but there it is marinated in white wine. What shall we serve it with? Correct, with rich white Alsatian wines.

Famous Italian cacciatora is cooked with tomatoes, herbs and white wine, or with olives and anchovies, or with all together. Chianti Classico, a more respectable wine than simple Chianti, has a good natural acidity and taste that can remind of sweetish cherry tomatoes. That’s the unity of similar tastes for you. Sangiovese, the red grape variety for Chianti, also makes Carmignano and Sangiovese di Romagna. The matches are very appetizing, but cost less than their famous brother.

Perhaps, one of the world’s most revered chicken dishes is Hungarian paprikas. Browned with goose fat, then brought to perfection with onions, garlic and paprika sauce before thickened with sour cream — paprikas calls for an aged red Bordeaux, a fine but soft wine that can admiringly meet juicy spicy-sweet taste of chicken. As most of us do not own hundred-year-old wine cellar, as an alternative we can try a bottle of good red Merlot which is both juicy and fruity.

On the way from the west to the east let’s stop in India. As chicken curry has already become a part of our language, we better get him a wine partner. Things are not so straightforward here, as fiery spices numb the taste buds and ‘kill’ many wines. The way out is to drink inexpensive white wines with high acidity from Alsace, Germany, Austria or to switch to beer and water.

Chinese chicken dishes cooked in various styles — with sweet and sour sauce or with ginger and garlic — require aromatic white wines comprising acidity with some residual sugar. Riesling is an ideal partner especially the wines of Rhine and Mosel as well as Alsatian and Australian Rieslings. A lovely floral-fruity aroma and bright acidity with a sweet touch is just what sweet and sour or ginger and spice Chinese chicken needs for an ideal balance of taste.

I hope that our short review of the most popular chicken dishes and their wine partners will lead you to creating your own masterpieces. Listen to the main melody of taste and you will be able to get a harmonious accompaniment to it.