Pairings

Muscadet and mollusks
«Gastronom» №9(32) September 2004

Seafood is often served a la naturel. This is why the choice of wines is usually trouble-free.

The taste of the sea delicatessens will be underlined by light, non-aggressive white wines.

As we all know, drinks from certain regions are best matched with the local cuisine. So, the easiest way to choose a wine for shellfish or crayfish is to look at the offerings of the sea-bordering wine regions of France, Spain or Italy.

French cuisine is hard to imagine without oysters and their bitter taste of the sea. There is quite a number of good matches between these mollusks and French wines. The list is topped by the Loire Muscadet. The vineyards are located on the Atlantic coast near Nantes. Oysters with Muscadet are one of the favourite dishes with the locals. On its own the wine may seem refreshing, but no more than that. Yet, served with oysters it transforms magically and acquires salty creamy flavour that makes this gastronomic marriage ideal.

Chablis is another traditional French option. This wine with pronounced minerality works well with fresh oysters. As for other wines, we should mention lively Loire Sauvignons and light steely Rieslings from Alsace or Australia. White Italian Pinot Bianco, Lugana and Gavi di Gavi have required freshness, and salty Manzanilla sherry contrasts well fatty Spanish oysters.

The unofficial mussel capital is a tiny hamlet of Bouzigues in Languedoc, on the Mediterranean coast. There mussels are often served together with grilled sausages — and local red Corbieres, Faugeres, Minervois and St.-Chinian. While on first consideration mussels may seem a white wine affair, traditions of Bouzigues prove otherwise. Juicy, rustic Languedoc reds with their supple, earthy, slightly spicy flavours are a real find.

For meatier seafood such as prawns, scallops, Langoustine or lobster wines with more body are chosen. They are white fruity New World Sauvignons from Australia, New Zealand, Chile and South Africa. German Riesling with a touch of sweetness is also an excellent partner, like fresh, oily Spanish Albarino.

As for calamari, they are best matched with an aromatic Italian wine made from Pinot Grigio and its Alsace equivalent, Pinot Gris. Two other possible options are light Chardonnays and young, fresh Loire Sauvignons.

Lobsters and scallops are the richest seafood. Same richness is present in Chardonnay wines which were aged in oak barrels. Dishes of lobsters or scallops are a special occasion fare, and they will be accentuated by fine white Burgundies.

When serving seafood with sauces and spices, take into account additional flavours of the dish. French Moules Marinieres will contain cream and garlic, so a light Muscadet won’t be able to do the job. They will benefit more from bright, fruity New World Sauvignons or aromatic Rieslings. In Spain king prawns are fried with garlic. A copita of Manzanilla sherry will turn this combination into one of the nicest starters.

Sometimes scallops are cooked with bacon or served with cream sauce. In this case the best choice is full-bodied Chardonnay, Semillon, Chenin Blanc and ripe Riesling. Lobsters in hollandaise or any other rich sauce require best Chardonnays. Asian-style seafood — semisweet German Rieslings. The choice of wines for rich stews like bouillabaisse — with garlic, saffron and tomato — relies on the sauce flavours. The ideal choice is rich white Rhones, Alsatian Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer.

In the end we will look at Champagne. This noble wine has an amazing gastronomic ability to match any seafood — no matter how it was prepared.