Pairings

Accompaniment to holiday
«Gastronom» №12(35) December 2004

Pineapples and champagne. Praised by the poet Igor Severyanin, this combination became very popular.

Yet, from the gastronomic point of view it is not the most exciting…

Undoubtedly, champagne is a wine that brings celebration. Its also has a magic power to be a universal partner with various dishes of the festive table.

Champagne is, in fact, not the only French bubbly. Nearly every serious wine producing region in France makes cremants based on the classical technology. Then there is Italian spumante, Spanish cava, German sekt. Australia, New Zealand, US, South Africa and even Argentina and England make own wines using traditional champagne methods.

For a good match it is important to choose a suitable style of champagne. Styles differ by wine’s weight and its aromatic characteristics. On the one end of the spectrum there are light champagnes with fine citrusy acidity and soft aromas of fruit and flowers. On the other — there are weighty rich wines with flavours of brioche and vanilla and creamy-like texture. Sugar levels should be noted, too. Wines vary from extra brut (extra dry) to doux (sweet).

Champagne as an aperitif can never go wrong, no matter what the style is. One may try to save classic French fizz for special occasions, while frivolous Italian Asti and friendly Cava are well suited just for a nice meal. No matter what the celebration is, it will become a real event with the help of two legendary cocktails based on the sparklers, the French Kir Royal (champagne and cassis liqueur) and the Italian Bellini (prosecco and freshly squeezed juice of white peaches).

Cold fish and seafood starters go brilliantly with dry sparkling wines. Raw oysters, shrimps and scallops are served with light style of champagne, but it is better to choose weightier wines for cocktails and salads. Champagne and caviar have always been a classic gastronomic pairing. To achieve an ideal balance of flavours between champagne and caviar, it is best to serve a full-bodied wine that can manage caviar’s taste. The other outstanding, if unconventional, partner for champagne is sushi. This dish, spiced up with ginger, wasabi and soy sauce, feels nobler in the presence of dry champagne.

Another delicatessen for an expensive bubbly is foie gras. The combination is built on contrast. Rich texture of the dish feels not as heavy on the background of high acidity of the wine. Take semi-sweet or sweet wine in this case.

Champagne can be served with cheeses and cheese starters. Soft, delicate cheeses like Brie will be well complimented by light fruity sparklers. Full-bodied champagnes with nutty taste will go with fatty cheeses like Edam or Gauda.

As for the main course, champagne is often served with fish and seafood. Light styles go with delicate dishes, and wines with more body can manage with fatty fish, fried seafood and fish with sauce. Main course of prawns, scallops, lobsters with olive oil combine nicely with white bubblies. Rose champagne is a successful accompaniment to rich fish dishes, including tuna.

Chicken and turkey take well the company of sparkling wines. Boiled or baked meat is preferred; herbs and cream source are possible.

Champagne is not often associated as a meat accompaniment, though it is more of stereotype thinking. For instance, in Penedes, where they make Cava following the classic champagne method, there is a tradition to serve it with roasted lamb. In the Italian Piedmont they produce red Bracetto along with famous Asti. It is often served with fruit, although the main gastronomic partner of Bracetto is… sausages.

Rose champagne makes a wonderful match with lamb, especially with dishes on the grill. Vintage rose champagne made in the best years and featuring more depth of flavours, will also go with such strong partner as game.

Champagne looks rather eclectic with Asian cuisine, yet it is great for dishes with salty, sour, sweet, fatty and spicy taste.

Dessert and fizz also make a topic. Strawberries with cream and demi-sec champagne is a decadent way to finish celebration. In addition, sparkling wines look good with any fresh fruit, fruit salads and sorbets. Peaches and apricots are especially nice with Asti when the flavour of the wine echoes the taste of the fruit.

In the end we’d like to offer you an alternative to the traditional Russian match of pineapples and champagne. A bubbly served in melon is an instant hit with everyone. Take a small round melon, cut the top, carefully remove seeds and flesh. Dice the flesh and put it back in the melon, chill and pour in sparkling wine. You get a two-in-one dessert where wine and fruit make a gorgeous marriage.