Pairings

Generous malt
«Gastronom» №2(37) February 2005

Nowadays it is fashionable to order with your meal not only wine, but whisky.

Russians don’t need to be persuaded that certain types of food match spirits well. Though, we are used to combinations with one particular spirit. Let’s try to make something new, using the Scottish and Irish gastronomic experience.

It would be all too easy if whisky could replace vodka in its traditional food matches. But the similarity of these drinks ends with the statement of their alcoholic strength. The former has such a variety of flavours that it is more appropriate to compare it with wine. Even at a quick glance one can find at least ten styles of malt whiskies with various degrees of smoky, medicinal, vinous, fruity, nutty, peaty, floral and other flavours. Plus variations of body and sweetness. It means that before making a meal it is worth opening a bottle to identify the style of your malt.

Salmon is one of the products that is consistently present in the Scottish cuisine. A starter of smoked salmon with soft whisky exceeds, perhaps, even the match with fine champagne in terms of gastronomic impressions. Smoked salmon should not necessarily come on its own. Salmon-based dishes are just as good.

Do not hurry to exclude seafood from the list of possible combinations. Indeed, it is too fragile for whisky when served raw. But in the fusion dishes it suddenly becomes able to stand up to the spirit. As an example, herbal-flavoured whisky will be an excellent match for oysters and scrambled egg and ginger sauce; and salty whisky — for fried scallops with lentils.

A full-bodied whisky with fruity, spicy, nutty and smoky flavours can be an accompaniment for starters with pronounced texture, like foie gras, tongue or small game. Fruit or sweet sauces are only welcome. One of the options is ox tongue with beetroot marmalade or foie gras with spicy orange sauce. Hearty winter soups with tomatoes and aubergines also make a wonderful pairing with malts.

Moving on to the main courses, we’ll start with traditional Scottish recipes. Haggis, sheep’s entrails with barley and spices, together with whisky was praised even by Robert Burns. The grateful nation widely celebrates Burn’s Night every winter. A festive dinner is laid out with haggis as its centerpiece and the object of a whole ritual. When it is served with whisky, the celebration, including its gastronomic side, reaches its peak. It may be too difficult to cook it at home, but if you get a chance to taste it in a restaurant or at your Scottish friends, then take a heavy, peaty malt with medicinal and spicy characteristics.

Beef and lamb are more approachable. The heartier the dish, the better it goes with a full-bodied whisky with dominating fruits, nuts and spices. Roasted meat with sauce, possibly whisky-based, is best. For example, roast beef fillet with whisky and cream sauce or roast lamb with almonds and red wine sauce. Also note the combination of this type of whisky with rich game dishes.

The Japanese, connoisseurs of old and fine malts, found them a new application — in matches with traditional Japanese cuisine. This may sound as an acquired taste but we certainly recommend yakitori chicken with a mature, medium-bodied whisky with pronounced notes of smoke, fruit and spices. Perhaps, it will inspire you for further experiments.

Our star menu will finish with desserts. Light fruity raspberry souffle with whipped cream and oat biscuits can be served with soft fruity whisky with honeyed and nutty flavours. Also try it with ice cream with various fillings.

Dark chocolate and rich, noble whisky make a very sensuous marriage. Chocolate desserts, like a cake with fruit sauce and yogurt sorbet are unbeatable with citrus-chocolatey whisky.

And finally, an original Scottish chocolate dessert — deep fried Mars bar. No, it is not a joke. Buy a bottle of a very old whisky, better around a hundred years old. Preferably with flavours of sweet sherry, fruit and spice. Invite a Scotsman — and you will not only receive a unique gastronomic experience, but a life-long friend.