Pairings

One step from Austria to Asia
«Gastronom» №2(85) February 2009

To pair Asian food with authentic, still uncommon for us Austrian wine doesn’t simply mean to follow new European fashion.

It is a bold step to a new gastronomic experience and your personal input to build new classical combinations.

Popularity of Japanese and Chinese restaurants made Asian cuisine common and accessible. Sushi and spring rolls are now present even in the menus of European restaurants, next to Spanish jamon and Italian pasta. Which beverage is best to drink with Asian dishes? Many restaurants offer an authentic set — Chinese plum wine or Japanese sake from alcoholic drinks or green tea and mineral water for non-alcoholic options. In the meantime, Austrian wine takes a prominent place in the world’s top dining establishments.

It is argued that grape wine has never been a traditional beverage of Asians, and that hot and spicy flavours make wine and food pairings impossible. Yet, it is worth remembering that Chinese dim sums or Indian curries outside these countries have long been made to suit European palates. Wine shows the widest diversity of styles, and, with a rare exception, it is possible to find a suitable bottle for each dish. The most important point is to remember general principles of pairing of food and wine.

Wines from Austria are not as common as classic French or Italian, but sommeliers in good restaurants like to work with them. They recognize their high quality and excellent gastronomic adaptability, including with Asian cuisine. When making a wine and food match, it is more practical to start with a dish by determining its main flavours and then to choose an appropriate wine partner. Here are some of the possible matches between popular Asian dishes and Austrian wines.

Raw fish such as tuna, salmon and others is commonly used in Japanese cuisine. It is not difficult to find a good combination with wine. Raw fish has delicate flavours which shouldn’t be overpowered by wine. Light white and red wines with low to medium level of alcohol work best. Whites shouldn’t be too aromatic or acidic, while reds — too tannic. It is also best to avoid wines aged in new oak barrels as they acquire pronounced bouquet of oak and vanilla. Wines made from white varieties Gruner Veltliner and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) or red Zweigelt and Sankt-Laurent cope with the task.

Hot wasabi sauce is not an obstacle if it is used in moderation. The best choice for sushi and sashimi is perhaps sparkling Sekt known for its compatibility even with the most “problematic” ingredients.

Natural flavours of tempura vegetables and seafood is hidden behind crunchy, oily batter wrap. What wine will highlight all taste elements of tempura and gently add some of its own? If a dish is made with green vegetables or herbs, for example celery, leeks and parsley, a glass of Riesling will be a nice accompaniment. It is better to choose an off-dry wine of medium intensity: its fruity bouquet overlaid by sweetness is especially good for vegetables. Light rose can also be used.

Mushrooms are usually paired with red wines of medium concentration. Tempura is not an exception, and the recommended varieties are Pinot Noir and Sankt-Laurent. Seafood dishes, especially those from prawns, benefit from classic Gruner Veltliner from Weinviertel, Kremstal or Kamptal. Another excellent and trendy combination is with wines from Viennese vineyards. They are called Wiener Gemischter Satz and can be ordered in any good restaurant of the Austrian capital.

When choosing a wine for spring rolls one should take into account ingredients of the stuffing. White wines with good body and fruitiness are preferable, as they can balance the intensity of the food flavours. These wines work even for spring rolls with meat stuffing. It is also important that wines are refreshing, i.e. contain a good level of acidity. There are several options to choose from — Sauvignon Blanc from South Styria, rare Zierfandler from Thermenregion or Gruner Veltliner and Riesling “Federspiel” — the name is used for elegant, full bodied wines from Wachau.

Chinese dumplings are made with different types of stuffing — vegetables, beans and meat. They are normally boiled or steamed therefore wine recommendations tend to be for the whites. Full bodied Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Neuburger, Gruner Veltliner “Federspiel” are good accompaniments. If the stuffing is hot or spicy, more powerful wines are needed, such as late harvested Gruner Veltliner and Riesling, intense Chardonnay (but without oak aging), Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder.

Steamed fish and seafood served with ginger and spring onions are often present in restaurant menus. Ginger is nicely paired with aromatic white wines like Traminer and Muskateller, but too perfumed and powerful examples should be avoided. Peppery-minerally Gruner Veltliner from Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal, unoaked or lightly oaked Chardonnay, Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder also go well.

Hot chili pepper and soy sauce are traditional ingredients for wok dishes. Not many wines stand up to their powerful flavours, but one can find them. The tested option is a well aged late harvested Riesling in auslese or spatlese category. During a prolonged aging the wine develops fine aromatic nuances which adapt even for complex dishes. One can also experiment with white Gruner Veltliner, Weissburgunder, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, or red Pinot Noir and Zweigelt.

The burning spice of Szechwan dishes is a serious obstacle for wine pairings. Red wines with intense sweet fruity flavours and silky tannic texture might be a compromise. It’s not worth taking complex or expensive wines — their nuances will be erased by the food. A small trick: put the bottle in the fridge for an hour before serving. This will accentuate fruitiness in wine. Merlot, Zweigelt, Pinot Noir and Sankt-Laurent will do.

And, finally, famous Peking duck with crunchy caramelized crust, tender meat and plum and soy sauce. The dish is present in a menu of almost every Chinese restaurant. The most obvious companions are fruity red wines from Zweigelt, Pinot Noir or Sankt-Laurent, but combinations with whites can also be exciting. Try Grauburgunder, full dry or off-dry Riesling from Wachau, oaked Chardonnay or sparkling wines. Rose is also an acceptable option.

Thai curries are cooked with fish, seafood, chicken and vegetables, and recipes traditionally include another strong ingredient — coconut milk. It should be taken into account when choosing a beverage. Successful combinations can be with oaked white wines such as Chardonnay, Weissburgunder, Neuburger, Zierfandler, Rotgipfler and even Sauvignon Blanc. In some cases concentrated Riesling and Gruner Veltliner “Smaragd” from Wachau can be used. Sparkling wines are always compatible with Thai curries.

Tandoori chicken is a popular recipe from India. It is marinated in a sour sauce with chili, garlic and other strong spices and then baked in oven. Fresh, expressive aromas of Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc contrast with chicken’s spicy flavours, while intense fruity nuances of Zierfandler and Rotgipfler complement them. Slightly chilled light wines from Portugieser, Zweigelt and Sankt-Laurent are possible options for those who prefer red wines. If you are not afraid to experiment, try tandoori chicken with sweet late harvested white wines — Welschriesling or Zierfandler.