Personalities

Madam Brunello
"Magnum" №4(7) April 2006

Men talk about their success, women — about daily problems and emotional side of things.

Such communication tactics work in winemaking profession as well. After more than twenty years of work Emilia Nardi, president of Tenute Silvio Nardi, could talk only about achievements and fame of her wine estates. But this is not enough. She believes that winemaking is about feelings and soul — without them wines would be different.

Nardi’s family business has long been connected with agriculture. In 1895 Emilia’s grandfather Francesco invented a new plough and other machines which contributed to the Italian agrarian revolution and to the sound business of Nardi Francesco e Figli. For experiments with machines, the Nardis bought Casale del Bosco estate in Montalcino in 1950. Eight years later its winery produced first Brunello di Montalcino. This is how the story began for one of the leading producers of this prestigious area in Italy. At present Tenute Silvio Nardi is the 6-7th winemaking company in Montalcino.

Emilia Nardi joined family business when she was twenty one. "Person of the land", according to her own expression, she had little interest for machines but saw her calling in working with vineyards. Having become the president of Tenute Silvio Nardi, Emilia was set to implement such innovative projects that she could change her name to that of Madam Brunello.

By Montalcino standards Emilia got a sizeable piece of land for work. Two large vineyards — Casale del Bosco and Manachiara take 80 hectares in total, but lie in two different microzones. "Vineyard location means a lot. Casale del Bosco at the north-west of Montalcino produces more elegant, less concentrated wines, than Manachiara in the south-east. They are two different Brunellos", notes Nardi. Both vineyards were bought by her father, but their potential starts to open only now.

In 1993 Emilia commenced with a long-term programme of replanting that was preceded by detailed research of geological composition of soils. Thus, 15 types of soils were identified on the vineyards, and Nardi wants to have ideal Sangiovese clones for each one. "At the start we made two experimental plots. One was planted with old clones from our estate, the other — with new clones which were brought from outside. Twenty five clones were used on each vineyard. It turned out that our grapes are better suited for our lands. Now we gradually replace old vines with new — with suitable rootstocks and clones", says Emilia. This vero progetto (’true project’) is scaled for 20 years and should be finished by 2013.

Nature demands a lot of patience — Emilia has this quality to the full. "The motto of our family is ’Land and future’. We have to discover the generosity of land. We have to respect and know it. The land remains always", this is Nardi’s philosophy.

Along with vineyard replanting, Tenute Silvio Nardi carries out research of phenolic maturation of the harvest. The estate was the first to use the test for capacity of polyphenolic extraction. From the end of August to harvest, they regularly test 29 vineyard plots which help to identify the best time for extraction of grape substances into wine. Results of the test also aid in how pickers should be moved in the vineyard. Harvest is collected not in one go, but through selective picking of plots. "After 9 years of practice we started to understand quality better and made an important observation. Grapes should be a bit overmature. Sugar maturation does not always coincide with phenolic maturation. The wine has vegetable taste if polyphenols are not ripe", says Emilia.

Tenute Silvio Nardi spend 10 percent of profits for scientific research annually. The estate has close links with universities of Florence and Bordeaux. "We don’t like to advertise our scientific work, but what we say — we do". The winery has just started another project — microbiological study of alcoholic fermentation. "Under the microscope there are so many inhabitants in wine, like the people of New York!" comments Nardi excitedly. For her this work is another step to quality that helps to understand and control the process of creation of wine.

Sangiovese and Brunello di Montalcino will always be the main focus, but Nardi is not closed for others. She owns another estate, Bibbiano, where Tuscan Colorino and Bordeaux Petit Verdot are grown. This spring a new Merlot wine will be on the market, the grapes for which grow in the south of Montalcino. "After 22 years of work with Sangiovese it is not a bad idea to ’change TV programmes. I have land that is not good for Sangiovese but is wonderful for Merlot. My nephews wanted to experiment and got an interesting result". This is a story of juicy, dynamic Merlot 2004 with an avant-garde rather than traditional label, made in the spirit of the time.

Tenute Silvio Nardi wines enjoy high reputation on international markets not least because of the business prowess of the president. "They often ask what it is like to be a woman and to head a big winemaking estate. Women usually don’t work in wealthy Italian families, but as a child I knew that I would manage vineyards", says Emilia. "When I work I prefer to be a person. One should have passion in the true meaning of the word. Women should learn to respect themselves. Men should also be more respectful of business women. Professional qualities of women under 35 are often undervalued".

Nardi’s future plans include another, not exactly wine, project. Thirty years ago Emilia’s father bought an ancient war castle Castello di Bibbiano built back in the 8th century. This summer full restoration works will start which will turn the building into a small, cozy hotel. "There won’t be much luxury. I want it to be simple in the way that it will preserve the character and atmosphere of the place. Naturally, it will be comfortable and with good service".

"I work not for my own glory, but for the glory of my estate", Emilia keeps saying. She is proud of her farmer’s roots, of her close link with vineyards. "People who work with land have a special culture. We are united by respect to the land and big pride for what we do". Perhaps, this is the main secret of success for Emilia Nardi and her flourishing estates.