Reviews

Moving back to nature, and forward to space
«Gastronom» №4(63) April 2007

Biodynamic winemaking is a relatively new phenomenon, but its followers are counted in hundreds today.

And their ideas find support among defenders and consumers of natural products.

In early 20th century Rudolf Steiner, the Austrian philosopher and mystic and founder of anthroposophy talked about the necessity to unite man’s material and spiritual world. In the end of his life Steiner ran a course of lectures where he tried to transfer his ideas to agriculture. This is when the term “biodynamy” appeared first. It was coined from the Greek terms bios — life and dynamis — force. Steiner declared that work with soil shouldn’t be done independently from the environment. He talked about influence of planets and stars on the life of plants, animals and people and about energetic exchange between the Earth and the space.

Modern biodynamic winemaking is mainly based on Steiner’s theories. A winegrowing estate is a live system where all parts are interconnected. Plants get energy from cosmos and then transfer it into leaves, shoots and grapes through the photosynthesis. Soil is not a dead material, but an important living environment for microorganisms which help vines’ nutrition. Problems with one of the components lead to a breakdown of a general balance. This is why vine diseases are not viewed as a separate problem, but rather as a signal of trouble for all system. Biodynamic winegrowers pronounce an anathema against artificial fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides. Their main principle is non-interventionist. The followers of biodynamy even deny such a common word as “winemaker”. They believe that only nature can make true wine, a man is nothing but its assistant.

Natural approach gives the biodynamists a lot in common with farmers who practice organic viticulture. The difference is that biodynamic philosophy views a vineyard not as a separate entity, but as a part of system that includes soils, climate, plant and animal world and even outer cosmic forces.

The success of the biodynamic winemaking was mainly possible due to the efforts of one man. Frenchman Nicolas Joly, owner of historic Coulee de Serrant vineyard in the Loire Valley, is a spiritual and practical leader of the new farming method. “I studied to be a banker, but became a vigneron”, he says. Having abandoned his financial career, Joly decided to make wine that would reflect the character of his vineyards. At first he followed conventional methods, but then came a chance. Joly saw Steiner’s book on biodynamy and decided to try new ideas in his estate. “I didn’t support green movement, but the book was fascinating”, he remembers. After the initial experiments on a third of a hectare, the winemaker switched all his vineyards, including renowned Coulee de Serrant, to new methods after three years.

It took Joly nearly ten years to understand the processes behind the biodynamic winemaking. He admits that even today a lot needs to be uncovered. Biodynamy actively works with energy forces and nature rhythms — heat, light and seasons. It also connects characteristics of plants and animals with certain states of matter. Outer cosmic influences such as position of Moon, Sun and other planets are taken into account. The materialists find elements of shamanism in this approach, but winemakers are convinced in its practical effectiveness.

In 1999 Nicolas Joly has published a book “Wine from sky to earth” where he explained the principles of interaction between nature and space. With the example of his own vineyards he showed how biodynamic laws work. His almost missionary work inspired many winemakers who looked for the alternatives to the faulty practices of chemical farming.

Nowadays biodynamic winemaking guarantees authentic aromas and flavours of the wine as they come from the nature. The vine easily catches and transfers all characteristics of the soils and the climate to the grapes. Winemaking is done with the minimal human interference. Fermentation is natural, without adding artificial yeasts and enzymes which can alter the bouquet. As a result there is a wine with fine reflection of its place of origin.

Biodynamic wines have another curious advantage. When the bottle is open, they are more stable and less prone for oxidation than ordinary wines. As Nicolas Joly puts it, biodynamic wines are not afraid of oxygen. He recommends to open them minimum a day before serving so that their aromas and flavours have time to open up. Moreover, he says that Coulee de Serrant wines are at their best 3-5 days after the bottle was opened.

In 1980s only several French estates knew and practiced biodynamy. Today its followers can be found in any serious wine production zone of the world. France remains to be the stronghold, especially in Alsace, Burgundy and the Loire Valley. Supporters of the natural winemaking also work in Spain, Italy, Austria, Australia, Chile, USA and other countries. In 2001 Nicolas Joly founded “Renaissance des Appellations” association that united 30 leading biodynamic winemakers. Today the movement is worldwide. The members of the association organize tastings in several major cities of the world on annual basis. Last year the first tasting was run in Moscow.

There are many renowned names among biodynamic estates: Leroy and Leflaive in Burgundy, Marcel Deiss and Zind Humbrecht in Alsace, Fleury and Bedel in Champagne, Chapoutier in the Rhone Valley, Alvaro Palacios and Dominio de Pingus in Spain, Araujo and Benziger in California, Jasper Hill Vineyard and Cullen Wines in Australia. Even the legendary Domaine de la Romanee-Conti that makes the most expensive wines in the world cultivates several hectares with biodynamic methods.

So what is the main strength of the biodynamy? Perhaps it is that no other method can offer a healthier and cleaner product. The niche is small but it has its supporters. And it is bound to grow.