Reviews

Quarter of a century of Spanish wines
«Vinnaya Karta» №3(84) April 2007

Twenty five years ago the Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade ICEX developed a first programme for promoting quality Spanish wines abroad.

A special tasting was held in Madrid for this occasion. It featured wines which created a modern image of the country on export markets.

The event organizers didn’t take an easy path of choosing top wines from the cult Spanish producers. Instead, they created a collection of 25 wines which reflected the Spanish winemaking progress both in the regions and in the country as a whole. Each wine had own message regarding philosophy and activities of the wine estates — be it new general principles of work, introduction of new practices at the vineyards and wineries, successful commercial and marketing initiatives and so on. The following report is intended to draw attention or to open new perspectives on the leading Spanish areas of quality winemaking, as demonstrated through their flagship wines and wineries.

DO Rueda — Marques de Riscal Verdejo 2006, Vinos de los Herederos del Marques de Riscal. In the 1970s a branch of the famous Riojan company pioneered creation of a new style of quality dry white wines in Rueda. During the past period Rueda moved from being an unknown producer of fortified sherry-like wines to a leading region of the “white” Spain. Local Verdejo is a major symbol of the area and Marques de Riscal Verdejo wine is the first point of reference for understanding its modern history.

DO Valdeorras — Guitian 2005, Bodegas A Tapada. A small Galician region of Valdeorras is now producing one of the most fashionable white wines of Spain. It is true that not many international markets know the wines, however the situation is likely to change in the near future. A family winery Bogedas A Tapada is one of the reasons for the success. It has found a key to a formerly neglected local Godello variety and turned it in a new star of the Spanish winemaking.

DO Rias Baixas — Pazo de Senorans Seleccion de Anada 2002, Pazo de Senorans. Today Rias Baixas is an undisputed leader in white wine production in Spain. Its creamy, complex Albarino wines are also well known abroad. Pazo de Senorans winery is owned by Marisol Bueno — not only she produces benchmark wines, but also heads the Regulating Council since 1989 that supports high standards of winemaking in Rias Baixas.

DO Penedes — Fransola 2005, Miguel Torres. Muguel Torres is a symbol of Spanish winemaking both inside and outside the country. Founded in 1870, the family-run company has lately expanded activity in various areas of Spain and in other parts of the world and created one of the most successful wine brands. Fransola is one of the examples which is now considered a classic in the white winemaking of the country.

DO Somontano — Enate Chardonnay Fermentado en Barrica 2003, Bodega Enate. Enate is a relatively young company that has worked since 1991, but its activities are closely connected with the development of quality winemaking in a small Aragon region of Somontano. It is a very successful example of what modern interpretations of wine can achieve in Spain. Thanks to Enate, several international varieties have adapted well in the region and greatly reflect the character of the Aragon terroirs.

DO Navarra — Chivite Coleccion 125 Blanco Fermentado en Barrica 1999, Bodegas Julian Chivite. The bodega takes a leading position in Navarra and produces one of the most representative wines of the region. Chivite is an example of how through right ideology and wise use of latest technologies one can establish a modern image in a historic production zone. Its other input in the development of Navarra is a successful introduction of several classic varieties of the world.

DO Cava — Freixenet Reserva Real, Freixenet; Jaume Codorniu Brut, Codorniu; Kripta 2001, Cavas Agusti Torello. Codorniu and Freixenet are the two pillars which support the sparkling wine industry of Spain. Their Jaume Codorniu Brut and Freixenet Reserva Real have become leaders in the category of classic method sparkling Spanish wines. In the meantime an independent family business Cavas Agusti Torello shows a great example of how to create an exclusive product outside Champagne.

DO Jerez — Lustau Pedro Ximenez Murillo, Emilio Lustau. The world is witnessing a new wave of interest towards one of the greatest regions of Spain and its unique wines. Lustau is synonymous with the premium Jerez wines preserving the best traditions. Thanks to the company, unique artisanal almacenista wines are still being produced and aged in the tiny family cellars. Pedro Ximenez Murillo is a genuine enological treasure that can tell about a long history of the Jerez region.

DO Dominio de Valdepusa — Marques de Grinon Emeritus 2002, Pagos de Familia. Starting from 1970s Carlos Falco remains a rebel in La Mancha. Thirty years ago he brought ‘forbidden’ international varieties. Since then his progressive work in the vineyards and the winery has never stopped. The estate was recently awarded a status of an independent production zone which symbolizes prestigious practices of the modern Spanish wine industry.

DO Yecla — Castano Coleccion 2004, Bodegas Castano. The wine zone of Yecla lies on the Mediterranean shore and is a good reflection of the processes which undergo in this part of Spain. A local Monastrel variety is enjoying a Renaissance. The winemakers of the new wave have been working hard with it. The Mediterranean Spain has lately proved that its terroirs can also yield superb Syrah wines.

DOQ Priorato — Finca Dofi 2004, Alvaro Palacios. Outstanding producer Alvaro Palacios has not only facilitated a dizzying success of Priorat on the international scene, but also became a face of modern winemaking Spain. Over 20 years ago, together with a select group of winemakers he discovered the slate hills of Priorat and deep power of its wines where the characteristics of terroirs and the grapes (Garnacha, Carinena, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah) shine together.

DO Toro — Gran Colegiata Campus 2003, Bodegas Farina. Red Toro wines have lately got in the spotlight in Spain. The interest from the international markets towards them is also increasing. Tinta de Toro grape, a sub-variety of Tempranillo, can produce world-class wines. Farina estate is closely connected with the history and current reputation of Toro. Its owner Manuel Farina is the president of the Regulating Council and one of the major driving forces of the area.

VdT Tierra de Castilla y Leon — Mauro Vendimia Seleccionada 2002, Bodegas Mauro. An icon of the modern Spain, Mauro is located on the other side of the Ribera del Duero border. It never created problems for its reputation, though. Its founder Mariano Garcia who was in charge of winemaking in Vega Sicilia for 30 years, is now a maestro of the modern Spanish enology. Garcia is involved in a number of other winemaking projects, each one of them is a great example of the ‘alta’ winemaking in Spain.

DO Ribera del Duero — Pesquera Millenium 2002, Alejandro Fernandez; Flor de Pingus 2004, Dominio de Pingus; Valbuena 5 Reserva 2002, Bodegas Vega Sicilia. Ribera del Duero is a magic name for wine lovers all over the world. Legendary Vega Sicilia, an undisputed symbol of greatness is enjoying a golden era of renewal. Alejandro Fernandez who once made revolution on Ribera vineyards, has become a modern classic with his bodegas Tinto Pesquera and Condado de Haza. Finally, Peter Sisseck and his Dominio de Pingus have raised standards of the Spanish winemaking to previously unseen heights and earned the reputation of an outstanding Spanish producer.

DOCa Rioja — Vina Tondonia Blaco Gran Reserva 1981, R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia; Vina El Pison, Bodegas Artadi; Cirsion 2001, Bodegas Roda; Real de Asua Reserva 2001, CVNE; Prado Enea Gran Reserva 1998, Bodegas Muga; Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva 1998, Bodegas Marques de Murrieta; Gran Reserva 904 1995, La Rioja Alta. A classic stronghold of quality winemaking, Rioja has undergone a period of re-evaluation in the 1980s and created a new school of avant-gardes. The following era of opposition between winemakers who worked in traditional manner and those who followed modern practices was generally beneficial for the industry of Rioja. It raised standards of quality and made the people work more in the vineyards. Today distinctive boundaries between the traditionalists and the modernists are blurred, and the region offers a wide spectrum of quality wines for various preferences.