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Reviews
 Brunello di Montalcino: consortium’s 40th anniversary
«Vinnaya Karta» ¹4(85) May 2007 The Consortium of Brunello di Montalcino wines celebrated its 40th anniversary. In a relatively short period of time the area has achieved a great success and placed Brunello di Montalcino wines among the world’s finest examples. Consortium’s director Stefano Campatelli talks about its modern history.
– The past and the present of the Consortium — how it is start and what’s the situation like now?
– Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino was born in 1967. Since then the organisation worked to improve the quality of the wines and the management of the area. From the very beginning producers understood that they had to work together to improve the denomination — so in that way they could improve their own estates and brands. In the 1960s there were only 25 winemaking estates with just 60 hectares of vineyards! Now we have 3,400 hectares of vineyards in Montalcino of which 2,000 are classified for production of Brunello di Montalcino. It means 6,5 mln. bottles of Brunello and 4,5 mln. bottles of Rosso di Montalcino. Then there are also Moscadello, Sant’Antimo DOC and IGT — in total 15 mln. of bottles per year. Of course, with the improvement of viticulture all the area grew up, production increased, the number and size of estates grew as well. A lot of other activities came later, especially enotourism. In this way production of wine in the area was an engine for the economy. In 1950s people left Montalcino because they had no work, but now the local economy is flourishing.
– So, the first step was the unification of a narrow circle of producers in the end of 1960s. What was the next turning point in the modern history of Montalcino?
– The second important event was investment in the region. People from the north of Italy started buying lands and estates for relatively low prices. Also large investment came from Banfi. It happened in the seventies. That way Montalcino became known in Italy first and then all around the world. At the beginning the locals were weary of the newcomers, but later they were fully integrated in the zone. Now we can find big, wealthy producers as well as the small ones in the consorzio, but they became one group and are a very important force.
– When did the international expansion begin?
– In late seventies. In 1960-70s producers strengthened positions in Italy and then entered export markets.
– Was it helpful that the capital was in the region from the very beginning and that people were ready to invest money in quality production? On the other hand, Montalcino area is relatively young when compared to other classic winemaking zones and doesn’t carry a burden of historic tradition like, for example, Chianti Classico...
– Montalcino producers are certainly younger than those in other famous Italian wine regions. I will repeat that in the late sixties there were 25 estates, but only three or four had bottling facilities. Those 200 producers which we have now simply did not exist before. Of course, Montalcino had historic roots, but they did not impede development, they did not stop producers from doing something new. In Chianti Classico winemaking followed the old way then and many thought that was the only way. Here in Montalcino winemakers had freedom to experiment — luckily, they found their individual path. We have to remember that from the very beginning wines were made with pure Saugiovese while this is a relatively new phenomenon in other parts of Tuscany. Perhaps, we could find our way because we were not under the pressure of history.
– The tasting of 1967-1997 Brunello di Montalcino wines organized for the journalists reflected the evolution of style and various winemaking approaches. If in 1960-70s wines with high acidity, red fruit and unpolished tannins dominated, examples of 1980-90s primarily showed winemakers’ work with barriques. Brunello di Montalcino wines of the early 21st century appear to combine the best sides of various approaches — understanding of the role of the vineyards and corresponding vinification methods, including the use of the latest technologies. In what direction will the zone go in the next 5-8 years, do you think?
– In the nineties some thought that production should be reviewed. Today the majority of winemakers tend to follow the established route. We must go in our style — the Montalcino style. Today it is being rediscovered but it is undoubtedly connected with our territory, Sangiovese grape and a long wine aging. It is not important whether it is kept in large barrels or small barriques. It is important to use the wood in the right way. With big casks you can also make mistakes. You have to know how to use various techniques.
– Are you satisfied with the current situation in the consortium?
– I am very happy because our organization is almost the only one in Italy that unites all producers of the area. The situation on the markets is also favourable. At the same time we have to continue to work a lot because otherwise you can’t live, you can’t have success in this big world.
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