Reviews

Egon Muller: unprecedented tasting
«Magnum» №6-7(19) June-July 2007

Any tasting of Egon Muller wines is a special event and a rare honour.

A world renowned German estate owns the largest plot on the legendary Scharzhofberg vineyard in Saar and makes outstanding Riesling wines. The invitation to taste eighty wines of various styles with vintages spanning sixty years is not just an evaluation event, but a unique historic chance that happens once in a lifetime. Eleonora Scholes was among the lucky few.

The event was memorable not only for the guests, but for Egon Muller as well. Later he admitted that it was the largest ever organized tasting of his wines. “It’s bigger than anything my father has ever done and I don’t think I will do anything similar in my lifetime”, he said.

The Scharzhofberg vineyard was planted by the monks in the Middle Ages, but late it was neglected. In 1797, after the monasteries were secularized, Johann Jacob Koch bought the lands and the building at an auction and founded a winemaking estate, now known as Egon Muller — Scharzhof. Today it belongs to Egon Muller IV — the sixth generation of the family and the fourth in the Egon Mullers winemaking dynasty. He owns nearly 8,5 out of 28 hectares in Scharzhofberg — with old Riesling vines, some of which are century-old. Vines on three hectares remain ungrafted. Even when a vine needs to be replaced, a new plant taken from the same vineyard, grows again on own roots. The Mosel training system (each vine leans against individual pole, and the branches are bent in a heart-shape with the ends fixed to the pole) allows the density of 10,000 vines per hectare. Famous Mosel slate is found in Scharzhofberg, too, but this is soft black slate, without big rocks, where the soils are finely structured and the roots get many minerals. The vineyard is cooler than neighbouring sites, with a good difference between day and night temperatures. The main problem is to ripen grapes in cold years, but the recent climate warming has, in fact, helped to pick ripe grapes every single year.

Egon Muller estate produces the full spectrum of pradikat wines from the Scharzhofberg vineyard — kabinett, spatlese, auslese, beerenauslese, trockenbeerenauslese and eiswein, yet it is best known for sweet wines, especially Auslese Goldkapsel and Trockenbeerenauslese. The latter are sold exclusively through the annual Trier wine auction and regularly achieve price records. Young Scharzhofberg wines are characterized by crystal clarity, and clean, vibrant fruit aromas intertwined with mineral features of the slate terroir. Relatively low alcohol and slim structure do not tire the palate, but, on the contrary, invigorate: wines leave your mind clear even after several glasses. Their elegance, complexity, sometimes unbelievable concentration of flavours — while the structure is fine and the acidity is high — are keys to great evolution that sometimes lasts for decades. With age the wines acquire new flavours — earthy, petrolly, tarry, honeyed, vanilla, crystallized and dried fruit, herbs and spices.

In the middle of the last century Egon Muller III added Wiltinger Braune Kupp vineyard to his possessions. The site is 2-3 kilometres lower than Scharzhofberg and lies next to Saar River. The terrain is different — with more iron and red hue of the soil. There are many stones; the soils are richer so the wines are more exuberant, with slight earthy profile. There is also difference in microclimates. It is warmer and the temperature is spread more even at Wiltinger Braune Kupp that lies by the river. “You could probably say that Scharzhofberg is Grand Cru and Wiltinger Braune Krupp is Premier Cru. It’s a very-very old vineyard, but its quality comes more from the fruit than from the soil. You don’t get the slate taste as often as you get in Scharzhofberg”, says Egon Muller IV. The evolution goes faster and allows to open the bottles earlier. Still, 30-50-year old wines of good vintages are in great shape.

The tasting was initiated by Karl-Heinz Wolf, owner of the Austrian WeinArt company that specializes in fine and rare wines, especially in big formats, and an old partner of Egon Muller. Wolf’s career was always connected with restaurant business, premium food products and wines (in the past he was a chef who opened two restaurants, well recognized by Michelin and Gault Millau; an importer of delicatessen; an exclusive distributor of a luxury champagne brand; a managing director of the Austrian wine estate Schloss Halbturn; a founder of LandArt restaurant and company in Austria). Today Karl-Heinz is officially retired, having left the management of WeinArt to his daughter Katharina. In fact, he continues to be behind the company’s major initiatives, especially the organization of high-profile events, the latest of which was the consecutive vertical tasting of Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1945-2005. The Wolf family — Karl-Heinz, his wife Suzanna and daughter Katharina were generous hosts during the three-day event.

Wolf’s extensive restaurant experience helped create a special menu for Egon Muller wines. The tastings were run in lunch and dinner formats. A flight of wines were served first, and time was give for evaluation. Then wines were tasted in a company of a certain dish. This ‘two-in-one’ approach proved very successful. The guests could comfortably assess the wines and write tasting notes, after that they could enjoy fine dishes and compare wines’ compatibility with food.

Wine selection for the first tasting inspired Karl-Heinz Wolf to prepare a retro-style dinner of the 1950s era.

While guests were gathering in a cozy courtyard, spargelcremesuppe (asparagus soup) and Kanta Riesling 2005 were served for aperitif. This is the first vintage of Egon Muller’s new Australian project where he is involved together with two European partners. While an obvious Old World influence is detected in wine, Muller admits that he wasn’t going to make a certain style. “I wanted to see what would happen if we treat this wine in a way we are used to treat our wines”. He applied several unconventional for Australian Riesling techniques (grapes were not protected against oxidation before fermentation, short skin maceration, fermentation with wild yeasts). “These little changes have already resulted in a wine which is not like any other Australian Riesling. If you taste it blind, you would probably not say immediately that this is the wine from the New World. I tried to put German spirit into Australian Riesling”, noted the winemaker.

The first flight consisted of Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2006, 2000, 1999, 1976 and 1964. (The full name of the last wine is Scharzhofberger Originalkellerabfullung confirming that it was bottled in the estate. Modern classification of German wines with an obligatory category on the label was passed in 1971). Young, expressive kabinett 2006 shows a promising potential. Now it explodes with aromas and flavours of ripe grapes, peaches, apricots and leaves a long, persistent aftertaste (++). Kabinett 2000 evolved quicker than vintage 1999. The former features distinct petrolly notes behind which fresh apricot flavours are hidden. The wine has passed the peak of its lively youth (++). Kabinett 1999 is now closed, as Muller says. Its fine nose is built on nuances and mineral-driven, and requires time to develop (++). In the meanwhile, vintage 1976 has gradually opened up, according to the winemaker. This year is very particular, its character is repeated in other wines as well. Golden coloured, kabinett 1976 has aromas of earth and brine, the palate with a slight sweet coating is fresh, wonderfully balanced and rich (++). Great, as noted by Muller, vintage 1964 has a lovely yellow-golden glow. Complex nose with nuances of earth and light vanilla combines the opposing sensations of sweet and sour. This Riesling can be called opulent — with rich, wide flavours of yellow fruit and wax, with expressive and fresh finish. The wine is in an excellent shape (++(+)).

Hummercocktail mit Melbatoast (lobster cocktail with Melba peach, pineapple and asparagus) was offered for the flight. Combination with kabinett 1976 was the most balanced thanks to echoing sweet and sour flavours and the wholesome character of the wine.

Then followed a mixed flight of spatlese and auslese — Scharzhofberger Spatlese 2005, 2003, 1976 and Scharzhofberger Auslese 1959, 1949. “I put two categories next to each other because today’s spatlese is what my father took for auslese before”, said Egon Muller. Pale in colour spatlese 2005 demonstrates unbelievable balance between freshness and sweetness of the white fruit aromas. Its intense and at the same time airy palate combines splendid ripe fruit and the mineral quality of slate terroirs (++(+)). Spatlese 2003 is now closed in aromas, but continues to exude freshness. Rich, luxurious palate seems broken in two registers — the upper is dominated by acidity and the lower features exotic, untypical fruit (++). Light golden spatlese 1976 in character reminds kabinett of the same vintage. Aromas of earth, yellow fruit, minerals; very fresh, mineralic, well structured on the palate, with not much sugar; a whole finish with marzipan notes (++(+)). Auslese 1959 has practically the same colour like the previous. Intense in aromas, it demonstrates tones of earth and nuances of petrol. The palate is earthy, slightly mushroomy, with an ideal balance between fruit, marzipan and earth flavours. A wonderfully elegant character (+++). Finally, inimitable auslese 1949 has even brighter outlook than 1959. With deep golden colour and fine aromas of minerals and earth, it is fresh and intense, vibrant and rich in flavour palette, feels juicier and is adorned by light spice in the finish (+++).

Egon Muller noted that wine complexity also depends upon the amount of botrytis: the higher it is, the more interesting the wine is. Thus, 2005, 1976 and 1949 had great botrytis, but its development was negligent in hot 2003 and 1959. Following the topic, Michael Schuster, leading British wine expert, called these examples illustrious: “In botrytis years we see spiciness, tenacity and complexity. The wine of 2005 has vigorous flavour. In 2003 we see juice and grapeyness, but not the same”.

The flight was accompanied by mock turtle soup “Lady Curzon” made of veal sweetbreads — an allusion to a formerly popular dish that is as rarely seen nowadays as the turtles. The most balanced partner was Spatlese 2003, and Auslese 1949 even dominated over the flavours of the dish.

For the third flight Scharzhofberger Spatlese 2004, 2001, 1992, 1985 and 1979 were offered. As head of Sotheby’s wine department Serena Sutcliffe stated, “the idea to use minor years when we are so obsessed on great vintages was brilliant and daring. It was about tension that shows good grapes in difficult years when exercise in selection is most important”. All wines except for the last had a similar pale colour that once again confirmed slow evolution typical for Riesling, even in the lesser vintages. Spatlese 2004 is a juicy, lively wine with primary fruit flavours, “Riesling personified”, as Serena Sutcliffe noted (++). The wine of 2001 has a deeper nose of ripe fruit and petrolly nuances, and an intense, nervy, mineral base. The British expert called it “piercing, with keen apple taste” (++). Spatlese 1992 (from magnum) contains less sugar than the previous; petrolly, peaty tone dominates in the aromas — it reminded of Islay whisky to Serena Sutcliffe; the palate is less concentrated, minerals are in the foreground; the finish combines petrolly, citrus and mineral notes (++). The wine of 1985 has elegant, whole aromas of alpine meadows, the palate is complex, with a curious tone of white currants, the wine demonstrates further potential for development. Sutcliffe called it “most interesting, complex, multidimensional, with fabulous roundness and very brut” (++(+)). Spatlese 1979 of bright golden colour has evolved in a graceful wine with a bouquet of minerals, earth, petrol and marzipan. The year suffered from spring frosts, but Serena Sutcliffe was surprised by the wine’s concentration and pointed out that the terroir came across well (++).

A typical German dish Original Leipziger Allerlei — with fresh green peas, asparagus and other vegetables was prepared for the flight. Young wines of 2004 and 2001 were most successful in coping with hollandaise sauce and vinegar in the dish.

The fourth and the fifth flights were dedicated to auslese. First Scharzhofberger Auslese 1991, 1982, 1981, 1970 and 1967 were served. Straw coloured auslese 1991 has wide, fresh citrus aromas, especially those of limes; its crisp, balanced palate combines apricots, peaches, honey and also reminds of fresh mineral spring waters (++). The register of 1982 is slightly heavier, with calm melon aromas and flavours, compulsory mineral notes, but without the spark of freshness, like in the previous wine. Egon Muller noted that a very large crop was picked in 1982 (++). Auslese 1981 is a wine of freshness, due to high acidity. Aromas combine white currants and grassy tones, the palate is with fruit, minerals and relatively low sweetness. Many found the wine untypical, comparing its character with Sauvignon Blanc, though these Riesling features are regularly seen in wines with higher acidity (++(+)).The wine of 1970 leaves a very favourable impression: golden colour, aromas with nuances of eucalyptus, honey, spice; rich fruity palate with minty notes (++(+)). Auslese 1967 seems ascetic at a glance — less colour and aromas of dried herbs, especially oregano; yet the palate demonstrates an ideal character of a forty-year-old wine — young, fresh and wise. A brilliant example (+++).

The flight was served with blanquette de volaille fleuron. Aged Rieslings greatly pair with such dishes. The most successful marriages were with wines of 1982, 1970 and 1967.

The second auslese flight offered Scharzhofberger Auslese 1997, 1990, 1983, 1971 and 1966. As Max Gerstl, Swiss importer specializing in fine German wines, said, “it was a great series of vintages with great power and concentration”. Auslese 1997, of white gold colour, opens up with beautiful aromas of spring flowers and honey. The palate is rich, sensual, combining ripe, juicy flavours of grapes and peaches with mineral structure. Bright, persistent finish. Still a young wine with long life ahead (+++). The wine of 1990 is a hermit at present: its fine, elegant aromas are built on minerals and are devoid of fruit. One needs patience to see this “monumental”, as Gerstl put it, vintage in full blossom (++(+)). Auslese 1983 is deeper in colour, with wide mineral aromas, vigorous palate of green apricots, medium intensity and not a lengthy finish. Max Gerstl called the vintage “not so great, with delicate character” (++). The wine of 1971 has deep golden colour, spicy-vanilla aromas and smooth marzipan notes with light minerals. Quite a lively wine, with a good concentration of yellow fruit and fresh citruses, especially limes. On the peak of development. As Gerstl noted, this impressive wine reminds him of supermodel Claudia Schiffer and actress Marilyn Monroe at once (+++). Dry in sugar and character, auslese 1966 was more acidic, even slightly aggressive, developed nuances of herbs and toffee and retained a bright mineral structure (++).

Welsh rarebits were served for this flight, a popular dish of the middle of the past century. Of the five options the best was the combination with bright, rich auslese 1997.

The last — and as it turned out the most controversial flight — was with ice wines Scharzhofberger Eiswein 1996, 1995, 1993, 1992 and 1989. Englishman David Peppercorn, Master of Wine, calls their production “pure luck”. The biggest cause for discussion was a contrasting evolution of vintages. If the wines are grouped by colour from the lightest to the darkest, the line looks like this: 1993, 1995, 1989, 1992, 1996. Atypical eiswein of 1996 has the deepest amber colour; the nose contains aromas of iodine, apricots, raisins, walnuts. High acidity dominates on the palate built mainly of the flavours of dried fruit. There is a lot of tensions between the elements. As the Austrian expert Peter Moser noted, it was a vintage with big botrytis (++). A more balanced wine of 1995 features yellow golden colour; the aromas carry fine, ‘icy’ breath. The palate is with apple and citrus tones, with zesty acidity. “More elegant, not that corpulent”, noted Moser (++(+)). An acclaimed vintage 1993 now shows bright, sunny colour. Fine yet deep aromas combine the notes of quince and iodine. A complete, rich, with integrated tones of apricots, white currants and limes (+++). The grapes for eiswiein 1992 were picked in January 1993; the wine of light amber colour features marmalade tones with some medicinal nuances; the palate is balanced, rich, with apricots and toffee; deep, persistent finish (++(+)). The most complex was eiswein 1989: of sunny-amber colour, with nuances of toffee, herbs, iodine; balanced, intense fruity palate, infinite, bright finish. Peter Moser especially praised the wine’s excellent balance (+++).

Coupe Romanoff, or fresh strawberries with vanilla ice cream was offered for the eisweins. The dessert was wonderful, yet personal predilection to ice wines won. I chose not to mix two pleasures. The evening finished with an unexpected surprise — the eau-de-vie distilled from trockenbeerenauslese 2005. The idea came from Hans Reisetbauer, owner of a top Austrian distillery (was recognized as best by A la Carte restaurant guide in the past five years). Two thousand five was a record vintage in terms of TBA harvest. Reisetbauer asked Muller to use the pressed botrytis skins to make eau-de-vie. Thus a unique in its kind spirit Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese Tresterbrand 2005 with the label of Egon Muller estate. Total production was 50 litres, equally divided between Muller and Reisetbauer. Only 150 bottles (375 ml) were released for sale through distillery. The price is 390 euros per bottle. The eau-de-vie has pronounced slate aromas, reflecting amazingly the character of Scharzhofberg terroirs, and especially lengthy finish.

The lunch was held in a colourful Austrian format. The hosts and the waiters were dressed in the national costumes made by Tostmann Trachten, and a traditional brass quartet played in the courtyard.

The key lunch ingredient was Atterochs beef, a local specialty of the Attersee area. The animals graze in a natural environment, on the meadows next to the lake. Mini flowerbeds with flowers and herbs — the usual cows’ forage — were an cheerful touch to the decor of the dining tables.

The first flight was Scharzhofberger Kabinett 1983, 1975, 1973 and 1971. As Egon Muller stated, the main idea here is to look at mature kabinetts. The wine of 1983 of bright yellow colour with metallic refrections has intense, fresh, mineral-earthy bouquet. The palate seems almost tannic, with a strong grip, very fresh, grapey, with mineral base. A wide, persistent finish. According to Muller, it was a vintage with hot summer and little botrytis. “The quality could have been better if less grapes were harvested”, noted the winemaker. Michael Schuster also said that “the wine speaks of high yield. It has petroly bouquet, fresh and fully mature” (++(+)). Kabinett 1975 is with more golden colour; it is not as expressive, but deep, rich, honeyed. The palate keeps concentration, yet fresh and easy to taste; it is complex, with ripe fruit flavours. Muller considers 1975 as more typical for Scharzhofberg thanks to higher acidity. Schuster finds “a beautiful bouquet, waxiness and petrolly notes, juiciness and quite high sugar” (+++). In wine of 1973 there is medium expression of earth and vanilla; the palate is integrated, on minerals and earth, with notes of unsweet marzipan and fruit; lifted finish. Egon Muller recalls that the vintage was remarkable. It was extremely hot and everybody expected vintage of the century. Then it rained, the yields were high, the fruit were ripe, but dilute. Schuster describes the kabinett as “wine of enormous charm”, puts it in pair with 1983, but notes more structure (++). Kabinett 1971 has light, sprayed aromas of earth and mushrooms (the nose was closed in another bottle); the palate is balanced, with dominating fruit and nuances of earth; the finish is earthy-mineral. Like 1983, the vintage had a lot of warmth and little botrytis. Michael Schuster calls the wine “beautiful, with extreme density” (++(+)).

All wines were harmonious partners for the starter of tartar mit bratkartoffel (potato tartar).

Further flights of wines represented Wiltinger Braune Kupp — the second vineyard of Egon Muller estate. First Wiltinger Braune Kupp Spatlese 2005, 2003, 1996, 1995 and 1994 were served. Pale in colour wine of 2005 refreshes like a mineral spring. The palate is intense and plays on the opposition of freshness and ripe sweet fruit — grapes, apples, peaches, and finishes very bright. Max Gerstl called this wine “spectacular” (+++). There is a bit more colour in spatlese 2003. Rich, ripe, opulent, even slightly alcoholic nose; the palate boasts the same richness of fruit, but slightly more static. A good length in the finish. “The heat comes first, then terroir and finesse”, noted Gerstl (++(+)). The wine of 1996 is all honey, lemons and wax in aromas; fresh, lively mineral taste and persistent mineral finish. Gerstl finds it still closed and suggests to wait for another 10 years (++(+)). Spatlese 1995 of an appealing sunny colour reluctantly opens fresh aromas of melon and honey. The palate is balanced, deep; fruit with certain waxiness; potential if far from being exhausted also Gerstl considers this wine more open than previous (++(+)). The wine of 1994 features fine earthy aromas, with obvious flint. The palate is reserved, elegant, built on minerals, again with flinty character, and lifted aftertaste. Gerstl called the vintage classic, and Muller later explained that atypical flinty characteristic is connected with higher acidity of the wine (+++).

Boiled brisket of beef with root vegetables and apple horseradish was offered for this flight. Lively fruitiness of spatlese 2005 married the piquant apple horseradish. A good combination also happened with the wine of 1996.

In the third flight Wiltinger Braune Kupp Auslese Goldkapsel 1999, 1989, 1976 and Wiltinger Braune Kupp Feine Auslese 1969 and 1959 were presented. These wines were a session of pure hedonism. Only the best lots are used for auslese with golden capsules, and feine in earlier vintages. The wine of 1999 now has bright light-yellow colour; complex, shimmering aromas of fruit and herbs; the evolution is still insignificant; sweet flavours of duchesse pear, incredibly fine balance; brilliant fruity finish. Max Gerstl called it still young (+++). Auslese 1989 has more intense colour; a fine nose on the nuances of fruit and earth. Lush, honeyed, more concentrated than previous, more complexity. Gerstl noted that when the wine was younger it was more opulent and now better shows terroir (+++). Auslese 1976 of intense sunny colour features deeper earthy aroma. The palate is slightly austere, with excellent freshness. Max Gerstl believes the wine is on the peak, and he praises its balance (+++). Auslese feine 1969 has brilliant gold colour, deep aromas of earth and vanilla, playing on the nuances of sweet and sour. The same double tone continues on the palate; a good harmony of elements, a seductive wine with fresh finish. Gerstl especially noted “wonderful aromas” of this auslese (+++). In the wine of 1959 intense, complex aromas of yellow fruit dominate, with presence of tertiary earthy notes. Deep, fresh, vigorous palate combines fruit, earth and minerals, light spice and an element of bitterness (++(+)).

For this flight the chef prepared beef roulettes with erdapfel potato, bone marrow and puree. A provocative for Riesling dish made in fact one of the most successful and memorable combinations. As Muller later noted, “you start realizing that when wines have a little bit of age, they are not so sweet anymore. And because they are so complex, they can adapt to what you have in food”. The pairing with Wiltinger Braune Kupp Auslese Goldkapsel 1976 was perfect: an ideal polyphony of flavours compared to Bach music.

The last wine flight at lunch was Wiltinger Braune Kupp Beerenauslese 2001, 1979 and 1971. Peter Moser later commented that the flight was the most balanced. The wine of 2001 of dark golden colour features deep, intense aromas of dried apricots and beeswax. A nerve of acidity runs through the concentrated flavours of apricots and figs. Spicy, long finish (++(+)). Beerenauslese 1979 is not different in colour from the previous. Fine aromas with notes of quince and white currants. Fresh, elegant, sensual palate, lifted and very long. It was the year of big spring frosts (+++). The wine of 1971 is slightly darker in colour, less expressive, with earthy notes. Wide, complex, lively palate, more concentrated and sweeter than previous. Peter Moser described the wine as “very racy, bouquet first shy then minty” (+++).

The wines were accompanied by homemade ice cream with LandArt apricot, prune and strawberry confiture. The youngest beerenauslese 2001 was a suitable partner for the dessert.

The final tasting was opened with Chateau Bela Riesling 2004 from Slovakia. This is, in fact, a late harvested wine that corresponds to the German auslese category — with medium sugar content, full palate of white fruit and almost grainy minerality. The wine made an impeccable union with bisque d’homard au verveine served for aperitif.

As before, the first flight was dedicated to kabinett wines — this time it was a consecutive vertical spread of Scharzhofberger Kabinett 1991, 1990, 1989, 1988 and 1987. “All vintages except for the last one are already developed”, noted Egon Muller. The wine of 1991 is with bright straw colour; with wide aromas of fruit and minerals, sweet apples and marmalade notes. There is some sweetness on the palate which is lively, fresh, with white fruit and spice and a lifted finish. Max Gerstl called it wonderful. Muller recalls that the vintage was considered mediocre. There was small quantity because of the frosts. Today the winemaker evaluates the wine as “relative success” (++). Kabinett 1990 is refined, fresh, elegant, mineral. A juicy palate with white fruit, grainy minerals in the finish. A classic. Muller confirmed that the vintage was great and can be see as a precursor of modern warm years. Gerstl described the wine as “slim and powerful” (++(+)). The wine of 1989 showed the fastest evolution — aromas or earth and mushrooms, same earthy-mushroomy, musty palate, mineral finish. Egon Muller was pleasantly surprised with its staunchness as he though that it would be “bits and pieces” (++). Kabinett 1988, on the contrary, shows little development. The nose and palate feature white currants, soft freshness and long finish. It is the last in the string of ripe years here. Muller thinks that it was over judged, but in retrospective the vintage can be called good, not great. Gerstl noted that the wine is still young and now closed (++(+)). The wine of 1987 stands alone because of the pronounced “green” bouquet and nervy acidity. As Muller said, “it was the year when grapes wouldn’t ripe. The wine has always been the same” (++).

The wines were served with local white lake fish reinanke with coriander, rocket salad and vinaigrette dressing. Difficult in tasting 1989 and 1987 were the most suitable wines for food pairing.

Then followed a unique flight of ice wines with the quality of grapes at auslese level — Scharzhofberger Feinste Auslese Eiswein 1961, 1962, 1966 and Scharzhofberger Auslese Eiswein 1973, 1975. Wines in this style are not produced anymore nowadays. Egon Muller told the guests that there were no regulations for ice wine production before 1971. In 1982 the rules changed — the minimal must weight for ice wines must be at least at beerenauslese level. Vintages of 1961 and 1962 with significant amount of frozen grapes opened the modern era of ice wines. In 1961 Egon Muller — Scharzhof bottled eiswein with a label for the first time. David Peppercorn called the flight “particularly great. I enjoyed it more than the more recent eisweins — all to do with balance and weight”. The wine of 1961 has beautiful, light amber colour. Complex aromas combine earth, minerals, apples and quince. The palate has an intense base of oranges and apples and more lifted fruity, earthy and briny notes. The finish goes up and leaves mineral taste. David Peppercorn recalls that it was the first ice wine he ever bought — he remembers it as almost aperitif. Now he notes vanilla, intensity and “balanced, lovely, racy character” (+++). Eiswein 1962 features nuances of earth, toffee and sweets in the nose. The palate is more intense, with quince, oranges, apples, caramel. As Peppercorn noted, this is what happens when you concentrate unripe fruit (+++). The sunny colour of 1966 vintage is the youngest of all. Fine, intense, complex sweet-and-sour aromas. The palate has melted into something very whole, the texture is bordering on viscous, bright flavours of apricots and minerals. Egon Muller assesses the vintage as average, and David Peppercorn notes the beauty of the wine — “beautiful fruit and beautiful harmony” (+++). The wine of 1973 of intense sunny colour doesn’t reveal its refined, slightly smoky aromas at once. Intensity and lushness of fresh and dried fruit, a sensual finish, an absolute seduction. Muller calls the year classic, one of the greatest for eisweins. Peppercorn pays attention to the fact that in spite of dilution in the normal wines of the vintage, the water element was removed from the eiswein. It led to lovely fruit concentration and very nice finish — “a great wine”, in all. For Michael Schuster this eiswein was also the best (+++!). The wine of 1975 features fine aromas of apricots and honey. Its effect is built through lushness, richness and obvious sweetness. David Peppercorn finds “most beautiful bouquet and gorgeous fruit” (+++).

All ice wines were fantastic partners for a warm starter of white asparagus and foie gras with truffle sauce. Foie gras and Scharzhofberger Auslese Eiswein 1975 deserve a special mention.

The third flight also showed a consecutive selection of vintages — Scharzhofberger Spatlese 1997, 1996, 1995 and 1994. Spatlese 1997 of light yellow colour creates tension through fresh aromas of white currants. The depth and tension are preserved on the palate, and the tone of white currants makes one draw parallels with Sauvignon Blanc. Very persistent in flavour, with a good potential for further evolution. Peter Moser finds similarities with auslese of the same vintage and calls it a “sleeper” (++(+)). In the wine of 1996 there is an unexpectedly quick development of aromas towards earth and mushrooms. The palate is rather rich, quite refreshing, on white fruit, but with a relatively short finish. Moser notes “more acidity and slatey character” (++). Spatlese 1995 now exudes citrus freshness and feels like a fountain of life, also with excellent concentration of fruit, apricots and apples in particular. The finish is deep and impressive (++(+)). The character of slate and petrol comes through aromas of the wine of 1994. This minerality continues on the palate which is fresh, balanced and slightly green. “More slim and shy”, as Moser described it. (++(+)).

Lake pike with crusted skin and caramelized leeks were prepared for this flight. It was difficult to find just one favourite: all wines made harmonious combinations with the fish dish.

A short gastronomic break was filled with the preview of the latest vintage auslese — Scharzhofberger Auslese 2006 and Scharzhofberger Auslese Goldkapsel 2006. Egon Muller said that it was a “roller coaster vintage”. Vines developed nicely after a long winter. Cold and wet August followed extremely hot July, but in September the weather was back on track. The winemakers expected a vintage of a century comparable to 2005. Then unexpectedly a hailstorm broke in the end of September — a rare occasion for autumn that did lot of damage in the vineyards. Three days of torrential rain followed, but for harvest the weather was “fantastic”. The first vineyard was picked at 40 hectolitres per hectare, and the last — at 5 hl! The winemaker says that the level of botrytis was high and is similar to 1999. He could have made more TBA but decided to speed up the harvest and eve everything to the cellar. Regular auslese gives an pearly effect with tiny air bubbles at the moment; there are clean, juicy aromas of ripe peaches and grapes; the concentrated palate shows opposition between primary fruit and slatey minerality; the finish is lifted and intense (++(+)). Auslese goldkapsel features a deeper colour, but the pearly effect remains; more concentrated aromas open up with sweet melon, peach and slate. Expressive, intense palate is based on ripe fruit and wonderful fresh breath; minerality is at the background (+++).

The following flight consisted of Scharzhofberger Auslese 1973, 1969, 1963, 1961 and 1960. Michael Schuster called it “interesting if difficult”. Auslese of 1973 with beautiful sunny colour has diluted, but fresh aromas of fruit, minerals and earth. The palate combines ripe melon, honey, earth and minerals, yet they are not as intense as one would expect. Schuster finds “pretty wax, medium sweetness and refinement” (++(+)). In the wine of 1969 smooth beeswax aromas are cut with honey and cucumber water. Slim, but sweeter on the palate and with a more intense finish. Michael Schuster notes that the wine is “not tired, with dried fruit, botrytis spiciness and caramel” (++(+)). Vanilla aromas of 1963 wine play on the opposition of sweet and sour. The palate is impeccably integrated, with notes of apple puree and earthy nuances. A persistent finish, on white fruit. Schuster completes it with descriptions of “wet wool, softness and medium sweetness” (++(+)). Auslese 1961 has light, lifted, slightly dusty aromas with nuances of herbs and petrol. The palate is austere, the structure is perceived as almost tannic. Appley finish. Schuster greets lovely nose, but believes that the wine is getting tired (++). The wine of 1960 has wide, rather rich nose that combines earth, honeyed fruit, currants and vanilla and muted taste built on earth and minerals. Michael Schuster admitted that the wine is lackluster, in fact, dry because grapes weren’t really ripe (++).

An Austrian specialty of tafelspitz with chervil was served. The oldest vintage didn’t cope well with meat, but there was a pleasant pairing with auslese 1963.

The following flight had Scharzhofberger Auslese Goldkapsel 1991, 1988, 1983, 1979 and 1975. The colour of wines gradually changed from straw to sunny. Later Michael Schuster said that “with age wines become more interesting. There is nothing exhausting because they are so delicate”. Auslese 1991 reluctantly opens up refined, deep aromas of ripe apricots. The palate is built on balanced opposition of freshness and sweetness, the finish goes on crescendo. A still young wine with a great potential. Schuster calls it “lovely, with no lack of ripeness where one can taste slatiness” (+++). The wine of 1988 gives wide aromas of grass, bright fruit and vanilla. There is even more freshness on the palate than in previous wine. The finish is lifted and persistent, with spicy notes. Schuster notes that the vintage deserved high rating. “The wine of beauty and brains”, he commented (++(+)). Auslese 1983 with fresh and at once sweet fruity aromas is an example of outstanding balance of the palate where notes of fresh grapes are still detected. A sensual finish. Schuster calls it “pure beauty”, marks it creamy texture and notes of butter cream and creme brulee. (+++). Opulent aromas of 1979 wine include dried apricots, sweet pumpkin and toffee. Dried fruit also dominate the palate. A slow finish. Schuster was disappointed with “drying character” and notes orange, marmalade, raisins and dried fruit flavours (+++). The wine of 1975 has an expressive honeyed nose. The lively palate is built on the nuances of dried fruit and minerality and finishes on bright acidity. Schuster admits that the acidity is high and notes honey-wax fruit. (+++).

The wines were accompanied by goats’ cheese and green salad, but the attention of tasters was focused on rare auslese goldkapsel wines.

The finale was the tasting of Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese 2005, 1997 and 1976. Serena Sutcliffe gave a short background of the wine and stated that “we are drinking history”. TBA category is a recent phenomenon; the first wine appeared in 1921. In Egon Muller — Scharzhof the first vintage was made in 1959, followed by 1971, 1976 and 1989 vintages. In the nineties 5 trockenbeerenauslese were released, and another five are made already in the 21st century. “This is one of the advantages of the global warming as it is extremely difficult to make the wine”, noted Sutcliffe. The guests were offered wines at three stages of development, with a clear change in colour. TBA-2005 of yellow colour with green reflections has bright, juicy, defined aromas of oranges, melon, grapes. The palate is a seemingly impossible concentration of juicy ripe fruit and the expression of youth. Sutcliffe admits that the wine has most weight. It is built on such primary fruit that “you can’t think of it as a wine” (+++!). TBA-1997 of shiny yellow gold combines intense, nuanced aromas of fruit, honey and herbs. The dense palate is built on harmonious, juicy flavours of fresh and crystallized fruit; the finish is live and fresh. Sutcliffe feels “particular affection”, notes wines’ silky texture, candied fruit, says that it is “bold of oranges and lemons”. “It will easily take to the fourth age”, comments head of the Sotheby’s wine department (+++!). TBA-1976 of bright amber colour features minerals, creme brulee and buckwheat honey. In a nearly viscous, complex palate the notes of burnt sugar, creme brulee, oranges and spices are detected. The acidity pierces the palate after the attack of fruit. Sutcliffe notes that it was a vintage of massive botrytis and finds tarry element and sultanas (+++).

Oeufs a la neige, sweet rhubarb soup and elderflower ice cream were served for dessert. Many guests chose to enjoy the rare TBAs and the wonderful dish separately.

It is hard to describe in words the atmosphere that reigned during the two-day tasting, the spectrum of hedonistic emotions that the guest felt, the unique and memorable experience that the wines gave. “We were drinking every metamorphosis and were privileged to see beauty and ages of Riesling”, concluded Serena Sutcliffe. We indeed were drinking the wine and not just tasting it — that was one of the key arguments for the great magic of Rieslings from Egon Muller — Scharzhof.

+++ — outstanding wine
++ — excellent wine
+ — good wine