Reviews

80 Rieslings from Egon Muller
«Vinnaya Karta» №5(86) — 6(87) June-July — August 2007

Egon Muller, owner of the renowned Egon Muller — Scharzhof estate, held a unique tasting of nearly 80 Rieslings starting from 1949, of various quality caterogies.

All wines were delivered from the winery’s cellars.

Egon Muller — Scharzhof winemaking estate has long earned a reputation of the best Riesling producer in Germany. It owns the largest parcel (8,3 ha) of the legendary Scharzhofberg vineyard (28 ha in total) in Saar from where the most famous and expensive wines come from. The estate also has Wiltinger Braune Kupp vineyard, adjoining the Saar River and several plots for production of entry-level wines.

The tasting was organized by initiative of WeinArt, an Austrian importer of fine and rare wines. It took place in Steinbach, on the banks of the picturesque Attersee lake in Austria. The two-day format included three sessions. Time was given to taste a flight of wines, and then specially prepared culinary masterpieces were served. Thus, the guests had a chance to do a comparative analysis of the wines and check their compatibility with dishes.

“Golden Fifities”, the theme of the first dinner, was inspired by popular dishes of the middle of the 20th century. As Karl-Heinz Wolf, WeinArt owner, noted, it was the time when people indeed liked to drink Riesling. “These wines are not very fashionable today, but the situation is getting better. I hope that the next generation will discover their wonderful, delicate character”, he said.

In the Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2006, 2000, 1999, 1976, 1964 flight, the wine of 2006 shows great potential for further development. Riesling-2000 is evolving quicker than the wine of the previous vintage. Kabinett-1999, in Egon Muller’s words, is now closed. In the meantime, the wine of 1976 is starting to open up, according to the winemaker. It is a particular vintage which character is detected in wines of other levels. As Muller says, 1964 vintage was great: an opulent, rich wine is now in an excellent shape.

In the second flight spatlese and auslese were mixed — Scharzhofberger Spatlese 2005, 2003, 1976; Scharzhofberger Auslese 1959, 1949. “I put two categories next to each other because today’s spatlese is what my father took for auslese”, stated the winemaker. A wonderfully balanced spatlese 2005 is a classic example. The wine of 2003 is closed in aromas, but accurately reflects the heat of the vintage in flavours. Spatlese-1976 reminds of kabinett of the same year through fresh, earthy-fruity character. Elegant auslese-1959 has intensity of aromas and a good balance of flavours. Auslese-1949 is even brighter in character than the former wine — with a wide range of flavours and a lively palate.

A flight of lesser spatlese vintages followed — Scharzhofberger Spatlese 2004, 2001, 1992, 1985, 1979. Wine of 2004 demonstrates juicy, vibrating ripe fruit. Spatlese-2001 features deeper aromas and intense, nervy, mineralic base. The wine of 1992 is less sweet and surprises with peaty notes. Spatlese-1985 was the most memorable — with elegant aromas of alpine meadows. The wine of 1979 evolved in a graceful number with a good representation of terroir.

Two auslese flights were served after — Scharzhofberger Auslese 1991, 1982, 1981, 1970, 1967 and Scharzhofberger Auslese 1997, 1990, 1983, 1971, 1966. The wine of 1991 with wide citrus aromas evokes associations with fresh waters of a mineral spring. Auslese-1982 is made in slightly lower register — with even aromas and flavours of melon and mineral tones. Wine of 1981 features high level of acidity and atypical tone of white currant — like in Sauvignon Blanc. A pleasant wine of 1970 gives rich fruity flavours with minty notes. The flight’s last wine of 1967 shows an ideal character of a 40-year-old wine — young and fresh, yet wise.

Moving to the second auslese flight, vintage 1997 opens up with lovely aromas of spring flowers and honey and rich, sensual flavours, demonstrating a great potential. Wine of 1990 is closed at present, but promises to reward those who are patient in a few years. Auslese 1983 has wide, mineral nose, lively palate of medium intensity. Wine of 1971 with a good concentration of yellow fruit and fresh citruses is at its peak. Dry in sugar content and in character auslese-1966 seems slightly aggressive and has kept a prominent mineralic structure.

The ice wine flight Scharzhofberger Eiswein 1996, 1995, 1993, 1992, 1989 was the most controversial due to uneven evolution of vintages. The wine of 1996 has the deepest colour and features dried fruit on the palate. A more balanced eiswein-1995 charms with fine, ‘icy’ nose and appley-citrusy flavours. The wine of a reputed 1993 vintage shows rich flavours of quince, apricots, white currants, lime. Eiswein-1992 is about marmalade and toffee. The most complex wine of 1989 grants pleasure through its balance and intense fruity palate.

Dishes made of Atterochs beef, a local Attersee speciality, were served for lunch. They created unexpected, but highly successful combinations with aged Riesling.

The tasting session was opened by Scharzhofberger Kabinett 1983, 1975, 1973, 1971. According to Egon Muller, the main idea was to look at mature Kabinetts. The wine of 1983 features an intense, earthy-mineral bouquet and a very fresh palate. The wine of 1975 is not as expressive, but it keeps concentration on the palate, fresh and easy. Kabinett-1973 demonstrates a whole character with earthy-mineral flavours and fruity notes. In the wine of 1971 aromas are of mushrooms and earth, palate is balanced, of fruit and notes of earth.

The other part of the tasting was dedicated to Wiltinger Braune Kupp wines.

For the first flight Wiltinger Braune Kupp Spatlese 2005, 2003, 1996, 1995, 1994 were served. Spatelse-2005 refreshes like a mineral spring, the palate is built on opposition of freshness and fruitiness. The wine of 2003 is about the richness of a hot vintage and minerality. The wine of 1996 has bright apple and mineral flavours and a good potential for aging. Spatlese-1995 gives pleasure through aromas of melon and honey and a balanced palate of fruit with hints of wax. The wine of 1994 developed earthy aromas and flinty notes, the palate is reserved and elegant.

Then followed Wiltinger Braune Kupp Auslese Goldkapsel 1999, 1989, 1976 and Wiltinger Braune Kupp Feine Auslese 1969, 1959. It was a flight of pure hedonism. Only the best lots go for production of auslese with golden capsules of ‘feine’ in earlier vintages. The wine of 1999 with an incredibly fine balance shows interplay of fruit and herbs in a complex nose. The wine of 1989 has fine aromas, more complex and concentrated palate. Auslese-1976 is with pronounced earthy aroma, rather austere palate and excellent freshness. Seductive wine of 1969 shows opposition of sweet and sour in the nose. Intense, complex aromas dominate in auslese-1959, its palate is deep, fresh and crisp.

The last flight of the session was represented by Wiltinger Braune Kupp Beerenauslese 2001, 1979, 1971. The wine of 2001 impresses with deep nose and concentrated fruity palate through which a nerve of acidity runs. Beerenauslese-1979 has fine aromas with notes of quince and white currants; the palate is fresh, elegant, and sensual. The wine of 1971 is less expressive, with earthy character, but more complex, intense and sweet.

The final dinner started with a vertical selection of Scharzhofberger Kabinett 1991, 1990, 1989, 1988, 1987. The flight showed the characters of well evolved kabinett wines. The wine of 1991 with wide aromas of fruit and minerals has bright flavours of sweet white fruit. Fresh, elegant kabinett 1990 with fruit and minerals confirmed the greatness of the vintage. The wine of 1989 evolved too quickly. Kabinett 1988, on the other hand, shows little development. The wine of 1987 features “green” bouquet and high acidity. As Muller noted, “grapes refused to ripen that year. The wine has always been like this”.

The second flight consisted of the rare icewines of auslese quality of grapes — Scharzhofberger Feinste Auslese Eiswein 1961, 1962, 1966; Scharzhofberger Auslese Eiswein 1973, 1975. The style is not produced any more, as since 1992 the minimal must weight for icewines should be at beerenauslese level. The 1961 wine has complex aromas and an intense base of oranges and apples. Eiswein-1962 demonstrates nuances of earth, toffee, sweets, and the flavours are more intense. The wine of 1966 features a fine, complex sweet-and-sour nose and a fully integrated palate. In the seductive 1973 one can find smoky notes and rich flavours of fresh and dried fruit. The effect of 1975 is built on opulence, generosity and sweetness.

The flight of Scharzhofberger Spatlese 1997, 1996, 1995, 1994 followed. There is a tension on the palate for spatlese-1997, and curranty notes draw comparisons with a Sauvignon Blanc wine. The 1996 wine has an unexpectedly quick development towards earthy and mushroomy flavours. Spatlese-1995 now exudes citrus freshness and has a great stamina and excellent fruit concentration. Slate and oil come in aromas of the 1994, and the mineral character continues in the balanced palate.

Then the wines of 2006 vintage, not yet released for sale, were presented — Scharzhofberger Auslese and Scharzhofberger Auslese Goldkapsel. The former features clean, juicy aromas of ripe peaches and grapes; fruit are juxtaposed to slatey minerality on the intense palate. In the latter the nose is more concentrated, and the expressive, intense, fresh palate is based on ripe fruit.

The next flight was dedicated to lesser vintages of Scharzhofberger Auslese 1973, 1969, 1963, 1961, 1960. Auslese 1973 features calm, but fresh aromas; the palate has some dilution. The wine of 1969 is sweeter and with more impact on the finish. The aromas of 1963 play on the opposition of sweet and sour; the palate is impeccably integrated. Auslese 1961 is with light, lifted aromas and rather austere palate. The wine of 1960 has wide, rather rich nose and a rounded palate built on earthy and mineral flavours.

Scharzhofberger Auslese Goldkapsel 1991, 1988, 1983, 1979, 1975 were served for the last, but one flight. A still young wine of 1991 reluctantly opens fine, deep aromas; the palate harmoniously features freshness and sweetness. The wine of 1988 gives wide grassy aromas, bright fruit and vanilla; there is even more freshness than in the previous. Auslese-1983 is an example of the outstanding balance of flavours. Dried fruit and marmalade dominate in the bouquet of 1979 vintage. The wine of 1975 features vivid honeyed aromas and lively flavours of dried fruit and minerals.

The tasting concluded with rare and exquisite Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese 2005, 1997, 1976. Wines of three ages, at three stages of evolution were offered. TBA-2005 is a seemingly impossible concentration of ripe juicy fruit and an expressive character of youth. The wine is only starting its long life. ТВА-1997 combines intense aromas of fruit, honey and herbs; a dense palate is built on harmonious, juicy flavours of fresh and crystallized fruit; the wine with a great potential. TBA-1976 features aromas of minerals, creme brulee and buckwheat honey; notes of burnt sugar, oranges, spices with a final touch of freshness can be found on a complex, nearly viscous palate.