Reviews

Wines of authenticity
«Cigar Clan» №4(34) 2007

Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner probably could not imagine that the short series of lectures on agriculture delivered before his death in 1920s would form the basis of a new agricultural approach and would become a popular winemaking practice in the 21st century.

Indeed, ten to fifteen years ago only a limited number of people heard about biodynamic winemaking, and even fewer practiced it. Today biodynamics is discussed in major wine magazines, books on the topic are published and special conferences are organized. But the most important is that the new approach draws interest of winemakers who care about their wines’ quality and consumers who give their choice to natural products.

The problem with biodynamics is that — unlike conventional farming — it doesn’t fit into the framework of material science. Its approach combines understanding and managing energetic forces of the nature and the cosmos, viewing vineyards as part of greater eco-systems, respecting the influence of stars and planets on plant life and many other factors. Biodynamic processes often cannot be measured or explained by conventional scientific methods which is a cause hot debates between their followers and opponents.

Before analyzing biodynamic winemaking, it is necessary to understand why Steiner’s philosophic ideas were supported by agriculture.

In early 20th century he became founder of the anthroposophist movement, or the science of spirit. Steiner’s theory was closely linked to religious and esoteric elements and promoted man as a cosmic being. The philosopher left 350 volumes of works, and later his ideas found practical application in sociology, pedagogy (including a famous Waldorf teaching system), medicine and pharmacy, architecture, theatre and other spheres.

In the end of his life Steiner applied his ideas to agriculture. In 1924 he gave a course of lectures where the notion of biodynamics was used for the first time. Generally speaking, Steiner supported traditional farming practices as opposed to the new industrial world, but there were also several new ideas. Steiner viewed farming as part of a global ecosystem. He talked about the influence of stars and planets and about life forces which the Earth receives from the space. And even then he noted that his thoughts would seem “rather mad” to many people.

Yet, Steiner’s “living concept of the world” resonated with the farmers and later became one of othe key ideas in biodynamics. Translated from Greek, the term means life force (bios — life, dynamis — force). Modern biodynamics is based on the idea that the Earth is a living organism that interacts with other planets and stars. Biodynamic farming and winemaking aim to create a balance between the energies of the nature and the cosmos. On the level of vineyards it means that people realize that plants receive energy from outside and transform it into leaves, branches and fruit through photosynthesis. Soils are not a dead material but an important habitat for microorganisms which help vines’ nutrition. If one of the components is broken, the whole system is out of order. Thus, vine maladies are seen not as a separate issue but as a signal to problems in the system.

According to Randall Graham, owner of Californian winery Bonny Doon and a great experimenter, “the aim of the biodynamic practice is to wake up plants to make them tuned to the environment”. In other words, biodynamics strengthens vines’ immunity and allows them to cope independently, without dominating man’s interference, with threats which invariably occur in any environment.

This farming model means that the winegrower chooses and uses natural allies, be it minerals, plants or animals, to intensify the energetic action. Let’s take animals, for example. Biodynamic farmers say that if there are sheep grazing among the vines, their manure balances soil structure much more effectively than any organic or synthetic fertilizer applied by a man. Last year Californian winery Joseph Phelps Vineyards, producer of Insignia wine, dedicated the first page of its bulletin, regularly sent out to customers and press, to sheep. The chief agronomist said that 640 sheep were taken to 30 hectares during the vines’ dormant period. “They processed grass, as well as positively influenced the ecology of soil and flora. Moreover, they cleaned space between rows and prepared soils for possible April frosts”, he noted. Unlike mechanical means, animals don’t press the soil and don’t obstruct air flow to roots. Many biodynamic estates use horses for heavy vineyard work.

The role of plants on the vineyards is also obvious. They support natural micro-flora and the life of microorganisms which are needed for vines’ healthy nutrition. Winegrowers either leave the existing cover or plant herbs and flowers with special characteristics, such as chamomile nettles, milfoil, dandelion and others. Before starting a new vineyard, Tuscan estate Querciabella that belongs to the group of the leading Chianti Classico producers, clears the plot from old growth and plants seeds of 30-40 herbs, salads and roots, including rocket salad, carrots and herbs. This is a normal practice for Querciabella that builds a balanced plant system where the microbiological activity of soils shows a multifold increase.

Presence of microorganisms in soils is one of the key conditions for a healthy vineyard ecosystem, but their importance often escapes the attention of farmers who depend on the use of artificial products. “A plant can’t feed itself without microorganisms. How can I eat if my hands are tied behind the back?” argues Nicolas Joly, leader of the modern biodynamic winemaking and owner of historic Coulee de Serrant vineyard in the Loire Valley. The practice of using artificial products leads to a vicious circle. Herbicides kill the living beings in the soil, but the primary effect on the soil is positive as microorganisms turn into compost and provide nutritious elements. Then a healthy cycle of nutrition is broken, and vines become dependent on artificial feeding. The action of chemical fertilizers is like the action of salt that makes a plant consume more water. Fungal diseases develop — a new generation of systemic chemical treatments is produced in order to combat them. They get inside vines and stay in grapes. This should send alarm to farmers to threaten vine’s life and consumers who end up getting a polluted product. Chemical fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides are banned from biodynamic farming.

It can be argued that the above examples are typical for organic winemaking. It is indeed so. The difference is that biodynamic weaponry also includes special preparations which help establish a full balance between vineyards and fine energetic forces. As Randall Graham notes, “biodynamic winegrower’s task is not to have an ideal vineyard, but to make it harmonious”. The action of biodynamic preparations is similar to homeopathic in a way that microscopic dozes are needed for their effect. They can be used as preventive measures or for solving certain problems. For example, a preparation with oak bark limits quick vines’ growth and fights fungal diseases, while a preparation with nettles is highly effective during a dry period.

The hottest polemics arises when ingredients and techniques for making biodynamic cures are discussed. The point is that biodynamic farmers follow a special synergy between certain plants and organs of farm animals. According to them, chamomile expresses its characteristics best after it was inserted in a cow’s intestine, and oak bark must be dug in the ground inside a skull of a farm animal to give good effect — these are just two out of a large number of examples. Before application on the vineyard biodynamic preparations need to be dynamised. The process means energetic stirring of water in circles, first in one direction, then in the other. Biodynamic farmers believe that dynamisation increases the impact of preparations. Work on vineyards is also planned according to the position of the moon and the stars.

This side of biodynamics causes varied reaction, from mockery and perplexed attitude to negation and rage. Yet, winegrowers can put forward arguments for links between plants, animals and minerals and are positive about the effectiveness of preparations. «Many things in biodynamics still need to be explained, but I believe in it because I see the results. I cannot explain how the preparations work, but they do. It is enough to compare two neighbouring vineyards”, says Andre Ostertag, a prominent winemaker in Alsace.

The process of vinification sees minimal interference from a man. Biodynamic supporters reject the notion of winemaker as they believe that only nature can make true wine. A man is nothing but its assistant. Fermentation is natural, without artificial yeasts and enzymes which can change the wine’s bouquet. Stabilisation and filtration are very soft.

Biodynamic winemaking offers several advantages where authenticity is the key one. Not all vineyards have potential to produce great wines, however, thanks to biodynamics each can open up its full character, and the wine will reflect fine features of the plot where grapes grow. All biodynamic wines are terroir driven — a highly esteemed notion that underlines a link between the character of the vineyard and the character of wine. Thus, only biodynamic winemaking can guarantee authentic aromas and flavours as they come from the nature. As Andre Ostertag notes, “switching to biodynamics, a winemaker is concerned rather by ideology than by marketing or pragmatism”.

Nicolas Joly, an ideological and practical leader of the modern biodynamic winemaking, thought along the same lines about twenty five years ago. Having decided to produce wine that would reflect its vineyard, Joly accidentally came by Steiner’s book on biodynamics and tested its ideas on a small plot. Soon he switched all vineyards, including the renowned Coulee de Serrant, to new cultivation methods. In 1999 Nicolas Joly published a book “Wine: from sky to earth” where he demonstrated how biodynamic laws work through featuring his own estate. His near missionary work influenced many winemakers who were looking for alternatives to the faulty practice of using chemicals.

Nowadays biodynamic winemakers can be found in all leading winegrowing areas. France remains the main territory especially in Alsace, Burgundy and the Loire Valley where biodynamics is practiced. Tuscany is the key biodynamic region in Italy. These winemaking practices can also be found in Spain, Germany, Austria, Slovenia, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, USA and other countries. This year Joly started to consult a number of estates in Georgia. In 2001 ‘Renaissance des Appellations’ association that unites 30 leading biodynamic winemakers was founded. Today the movement is worldwide with 120 estates in 12 countries. Members of the association hold tastings in several key cities of the world on annual basis. Last year this event was organized in Moscow for the first time.

Today biodynamic winemaking is practiced both by unknown and renowned estates, and their vineyards cover from less than a hectare to over a hundred hectares. The most recognized followers of biodynamic winemaking are Leroy, Comte Armand, Leflaive, Pierre Morey, A et P de Villaine in Burgundy; La Tour Figeac, Chateau Lagarette in Bordeaux; Pierre Frick, Marcel Deiss, Zind Humbrecht, Ostertag in Alsace; Fleury, Leclapart, Bedel, De Sousa & Fils in Champagne; Coulee de Serrant, Huet, Domaine de l’Ecu, Chateau Tour Grise in the Loire Valley; Chapoutier, Montirius, Domaine de Villeneuve in the Rhone Valley; Gauby in Roussillon; Alois Lageder, Queriabella, Castello dei Rampolla, Tenuta di Valgiano in Italy; Alvaro Palacios, Dominio de Pingus, Telmo Rodriguez, Mas Estela in Spain; Araujo, Robert Sinskey, Frog’s Leap and Benziger in California; The Millton Vineyards in New Zealand; Jasper Hill Vineyard and Cullen Wines in Australia.