Reviews

Red Villany
«Vinnaya Karta» №6(87) August 2007

The best winemaking traditions of Hungary come from Tokaj.

This stereotype is only partly true and finds an increasing number of refutations, including at a recent Hungarian Wines Salon held in Moscow. Villany area, for example, has always found pride in producing quality red wines.

The southernmost Hungarian region keeps evidence that winemaking has been practiced for at least two thousand years. Villany growers are really lucky with topography and climate. Terraced vineyards are cut on the 14-kilometre long ridge, and the best slopes always have southern exposition. Because of the hills vineyards are protected from the cold northern influence and enjoy warm climatic conditions. The total sum of temperatures during a vine growing cycle regularly exceeds the indexes of other parts of Hungary. The terrain is ideally suited for vineyards. Top soils consist of loess, at times mixed with brown soils, eroded limestone and clay with a deep bottom calcareous layer formed during the Jurassic period. The combination of place, climate and soils is best suited for cultivating red grapes — that is exactly what they do in Villany.

Local Kekoporto and Kekfrankos which are in the German speaking world known as Blauer Portugieser and Blaufrankisch are cultivated next to international Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The latter, though, are not the newcomers in Villany. Cabernet Franc, for example, has grown for over a century in the region and has well adapted to local terroirs. It is one of the leading varieties that gives wines with structure and concentration. Villany is well known through wine in Bordeaux style as well as blends between Cabernet and Merlot and local varieties.

I was reminded of this exciting region through a parcel that came from Hungary. Heumann wine estate was founded in Villany over ten years ago. Its German name is explained by the origin of the owners — a Swiss-German couple of Evelyne and Erhard Heumann. After a long working experience in wine business, they took a chance to rent a Kekoporto vineyard with 40-year-old vines and try themselves in a new quality of winemakers. “The decision to produce wine not only as side lining in our spare time but in a professional manner was the logic consequence. Wine is our passion and dedication — quality our overall maxime”, comments Erhard.

In 2001 the Heumanns took a long-term lease over a neglected 2,5-hectare plot on one of the best Villany sites. According to the locals, its wines were highly reputed only two generations ago. The plot was cleared and planted to Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Merlot. The density of plantings is 7,000 vines per hectare. The first harvest was picked last year, and the yields do not exceed one kilogramme per vine. There are also several small plots with Merlot and Kekfrankos under rent. Some grapes are bought from quality oriented growers. Earlier this spring the Heumanns started three new vineyards with red varieties. Today they also produce some white wine — a pure Rhein Riesling and a blend of Chardonnay and Harselevelue with a small addition of Welschriesling and Gewurztraminer. Having started from 500 bottles, the winery produced 6,000 bottles in 2004 and 2005, and it plans to increase production to 40,000-50,000 bottles.

Serious intentions of working in Hungary were once again confirmed in May 2004 when the Heumann company finished building a winery. From then on the wines have been fermented, aged and stored in fully controlled conditions.

Work on the vineyards and in the winery is carried out by a young Hungarian professional who has an enological degree and worked in several German wine estates. Evelyne and Erhard Heumann hope that he will soon be joined by their son who is studying to be a winemaker in Switzerland.

They also realize that the winery must achieve international recognition in order to be successful. The wines are regularly sent to prestigious national and international competitions and have already received a number of awards. They are also exported to the European countries, including Switzerland and Germany.

Villany Cuvee is the wine of special pride that also reveals the estate’s progress. In 2000 the blend was made of Cabernet Sauvignon, Kekfrankos and Kekoporto. Dark ruby in colour, the wine combines open, intense, warm aromas of plums and cherries with nuances of licorice and soft spice. The palate is fresh, easy drinking, with flavours of blackcurrant jam, black fruit and good oak integration. The finish leaves a pleasant, lingering toasty sensation. The wine demonstrates surprisingly little development for its seven years of age. The components of blend changed to Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Kekfrankos since 2003. The estate plans to keep the combination in future, with possible addition of Syrah for extra structure. Wine of 2003 vintage in aromas evokes comparison to a cherry pie dusted with sugar and sweet vanilla. There are also lovely notes of violets present. An intense palate gives a good reflection of Cabernet character. There are pencil shavings and cedar plus wild berries; the tannins are rich and velvety. A good length with dominance of attractive woody notes. Villany Cuvee 2004 is the most complex. It is more restrained than others, with calm aromas of fruit and tree bark; its structure is tighter knit, the tannins are velvety; there are flavours of red cherries and sweet blackberries, tickling spice and integrated oak. The finish is persistent, with more volume, on the notes of blackberries and spice and woody notes in the end. All wines are marked by a modern style, a good extraction and an appealing palate driven by fruit and supported by wood aged features. By the way, the winery uses barrels made of quality Hungarian oak that gives sweet licorice notes and soft, coating textures.

The Heumann winery firmly follows the decision to launch its wines on the highest possible level of quality and already serves as a good example of what can be expected from Villany winemaking.