Reviews

Roero, Barbaresco, Barolo: latest releases
«Vinnaya Karta» №8 (89) October 2007, "Vitrina" October 2007

Alba Wines Exhibition is a traditional event where the Union of Alba wine producers shows the latest millesimes.

Usually the tasting features wines based on Nebbiolo, the noble grape of Piedmont. On this occasion they were Roero-2004, Barbaresco-2004, Barolo-2003 and Barolo Riserva-2001. All tastings are run blind, in nearly clinical conditions. About 75 samples are offered for a 4-hour morning session.

Roero wine region is the smallest of the three Nebbiolo production zones. It lies to the north of Alba, on the right bank of Tanaro River. Currently the vineyards occupy merely 193 hectares. Production rules stipulate that Roero wines must have 95% of Nebbiolo, the rest can come from non-aromatic red varieties cultivated in Piedmont. Vintage-2004 was the last when Roero wines had DOC status. Starting from the 2005 harvest their rank is promoted to DOCG, the highest in Italy category of controlled and guaranteed name of origin.

Like in Barolo and Barbaresco, Roero vineyards lie on the hills, but they differ both in appearance and soil structure. Steep, less welcoming hills are often covered with woods. The soils contain more sand and have less water retention. It means that Nebbiolo wines there are softer and less tannic, they evolve quicker than others.

Weather conditions of 2004 generally didn’t cause problems for winegrowers. Cold, snowy winter was followed by a rainy spring that delayed the start of the vegetative cycle and later caused a slower development in vines. Further months had normal summer temperatures, without periods of extreme heat or rain. The distinguishing feature of 2004 was the arrival of an anticyclone that lasted throughout September and early October. Sunny, dry, warm autumn weather helped the winegrowers wait until the grapes were fully ripe and gather them unhurriedly.

In these weather conditions bunches were formed medium or large. Average yields were around 52 hectolitres per hectare. Total production of Roero DOC in 2004 exceeded average figures and equaled 884,400 bottles.

Judging by 29 samples of the tasting, the style and quality of Roero wines varies from one producer to another. One can find traditional, acidic, examples with red fruit flavours as well as concentrated, “garage” styled wines in this spectrum. Best Roero representatives have a good aromatic intensity, balance, freshness and non-aggressive, yet substantial tannic structure. The most successful examples of 2004 vintage were Printi per Lucia by Monchiero Carbone; Bric Paradis by Buganza Renato; Cascina Val del Prete from the eponymous estate; Montespinato and Valmaggiore by Cascina Chicco; Roche d’Ampsej by Correggia Matteo; Pace di Negro F.lli from the eponymous estate; Vigna Costa by Massucco F.lli; Audinaggio by Cascina Ca’ Rossa.

Barbaresco DOCG lies on the opposite bank from Roero and received its name after one of the villages. It also includes vineyards of Neive, Treiso and partially Alba communes. Today the vineyard area is experiencing a steady increase. Total plantings are now 100 hectares more than in 2002. The vineyards cover nearly 700 hectares, and the vineyard area in Neive exceeds that of Barbaresco.

Weather patterns and vine development in Barbaresco were not different to those in Roero in 2004. The wines show good freshness thanks to adequate acidity. The yields were higher than usual at around 53 hl/ha and the number of produced bottles approached 4 million. General quality is on a good level.

In total, 67 samples were offered for tasting. In Treiso the following wines stood out — Vigna Montersino by Abrigo Orlando; La Ganghija from the eponymous estate; Vigneto Valeirano by La Spinetta; Nubiola by Pelissero; Vigneto Marcarini by Pertinace; Nervo ‘Fondetta’ by Rizzi; Noemy by Vigin. In Neive high marks were achieved by Sori Basarin by Bonino Romano; Basarin by Giacosa F.lli; Vigneto Starderi by La Spinetta; Basarin by Negro Angelo e Figli; Gallina by Prinsi; Canova by Ressia Fabrizio; Battaglio from the eponymous estate; Albesani by Cantina del Bricchetto; Sori Paolin by Cascina Luisin; Sori Capelli by Filippino; Sori Burdin by Fontanabianca; Ripa Sorita by La Contea; Basarin by Moccagatta; Palazzina by Montaribaldi; San Cristoforo by Rinaldi Pietro; Cotta and Fausoni by Sottimano; Tenuta San Mauro from the eponymous estate. In Barbaresco these wines showed well — Rio Sordo and normal bottling of Barbaresco by Cascina Bruciata; Martinenga by Marchesi di Gresy; Cantina del Pino from the eponymous estate; Rabaya by Cascina Luisin; Asili by Chiarlo Michele; Bric Balin by Moccagatta; Vigneto Brich Rochi by Rocca Albino; Prunotto from the eponymous estate.

Renowned Barolo winemaking zone is the largest of the three in Alba, yet its territory is quite humble when compared to the leading wine regions of the world. The vineyards occupy around 1,800 hectares which is nearly 400 hectares more than in 2002 (in Chianti Classico, for example, vineyard area is 7,000 hectares). The winemaking zone consists of 11 communes, the most reputed are Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto and La Morra. Barolo production norms stipulate longer aging with three years in total, including 2 years in barrels. Thus, Barolos of 2003 vintage will shortly arrive on the market.

After the catastrophic 2002 when the volume of production decreased nearly by two in comparison to the current year, winemakers are desperate to sell the wines of 2003 as quickly as possible in order to improve their financial situation. Although more wine was made (over 8,7 mln. bottles in 2003 against nearly 6 mln. in 2002), the vintage had a lot of problems, just like the previous.

Weather conditions of 2003 have already entered historic records because of the lasting summer heat with the almost complete absence of rain. The sum total of temperatures over 10 degrees Celsius between January and end of August reached 1,740 degrees. In 1997, one of the hottest years of the last century, the aggregate showed 1,400 degrees. The rainfall by the end of August was 265 mm (in 2002, for instance, there were 830 mm). The quality of the grapes suffered. Skins of berries were burnt in many vineyards, yet tannins did not achieve physiological ripeness. Wines made from such grapes were marred by aggressive tannins and untypical flavours of jammy fruit at the backdrop of high alcohol. Some samples were close in style to Amarone and even approached the characteristics of fortified wines.

Barolo-2003 will demand a good knowledge of the situation in the vineyards of individual producers. It wasn’t critical everywhere. According to Valter Fissore from Elvio Cogno, Novello commune had good water reserves so vineyards suffered less. The evidence lies in Elvio Cogno wines which combine ripe, but not jammy flavours of red fruit and a ripe tannic structure.

Of 53 Barolos (communes Castiglione Falletto, Alba, Diano d’Alba, Grinzano Cavour, Verduno and Serralunga d’Alba) recommendations go to the following. In Castiglione Falletto — Mariondino by Parusso Armando, Villero by Cascina Rocca, Enrico Vi by Monfalletto, Villero by Boroli Silvano ed Elena, Fontana Ettore from the eponymous estate, Vigna Mandorlo by Giacosa F.lli, Rocche Rivera by Luigi Oddero e Figli; in Diano d’Alba — Barbiasco by Veglio Giovanni e Figli; in Grinzano Cavour — Vigneto Campe by La Spinetta; in Verduno — Riva by Alario Claudio; in Serralunga d’Alba — Meriame and Serralunga by Manzone Gian Paolo, Serralunga by Palladino, Vigna Cucco by Cascina Cucco, Cerretta by Germano Ettore, Massolino — Vigna Ronda from the eponymous estate, Vigna Marenca and Vigna Margheria by Pira Luigi, Vigna Lazzairasco by Porro Guido, Serralunga by Reverdito Michele, Fontanafredda from the eponymous estate, Margheria by Gabutti, Guilin by Rivetto dal 1902, Lazzarito by Vietti.