Reviews

White king of Marche
«Vinnaya Karta» №10 (91) December 2007

Verdicchio is one of the few white grapes in the Central Italy that is capable of producing serious wines.

After an impressive commercial success of the second half of the 20th century Verdichhio wines started to lose quality grounds. But, with the arrival of the new millennium, winemakers have been working in the right direction again.

Verdicchio is like a finely cut jewel, says Giancarlo Rossi, director of the Marche producers’ association Assivip. He is certainly proud of the flagship white grape of his area, and this pride is well justified. Verdicchio makes up a large part of quality wine production in Marche, as well as gives a wide spectrum of styles — from dry to sweet, from still to sparkling.

Today Verdicchio is synonymous with white winemaking in Marche, although no one is sure how the grape came to this land. Probably, through the Romans as main bearers of the viticultural practices two thousand years ago. People in Fazi Battaglia winery believe that by early 5th century a Visigoth king praised the wine for its curative properties and for strengthening the spirit of the soldiers who marched to conquer Rome. Other sources state that Verdicchio vineyards were planted by the Benedictine monks in the 8-9th centuries. The results of the latest DNA research found links with Trebbiano that grows in the northern Italian zone of Soave and on the shores of the Garda lake. There is a theory that Verdicchio arrived to the Adriatic coast thanks to Veneto farmers who escaped the plague in the 15th century. Whatever the story, today Verdicchio is the most popular and common white variety in the Central Italy and, more specifically, in the Marche region.

Over 3 100 hectares are given to Verdicchio, unequally divided between two denominated production zones — Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica. The former is a near monopolist, it takes 2 800 hectares. As common in Italy, the name indicates that Verdicchio grows around the town of Jesi and several fortified settlements collectively known as Castelli di Jesi. Several routes run along them, and lovers of history, culture and architecture will find them fascinating. Jesi is a corrupted name of Aesis which the ancient Romans once gave to their settlement. Matelica is another town, and the second production zone Verdicchio di Matelica is named after it.

Although some people question the necessity of two separate DOCs, the difference in climate, soil and nature makes the division justified. Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is closely adjacent to the Adriatic coast and is under a direct influence of a temperate marine climate. There is high clay content in the whitish chalk soils. Vineyards are located on both sides of the Esino River that helps delineate the territory into the higher Right bank and the lower Left. On the contrary, Verdicchio di Matelica is situated further from the sea and is hidden in a valley, protected by hills on all sides. The microclimate features a more dramatic difference between day and night temperatures, and chalk and marine sediment dominates the soil.

The difference leads to stylistic particularities between wines of the two zones. If in Jesi they are more intense and generous, in Matelica they get to be more aromatic, lively and minerally.

Managed yields are one of the key conditions for making quality Verdicchio wines. As Lorenzo Marotti Campi from the eponymous estate notes, one bunch of Verdicchio weighs as much as two bunches of Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay. DOC rules stipulate yields for basic wines at around 100 hectolitres per hectare — quite a generous gesture!

As main production concentrates on still dry wines, it is only fair to have a closer look at them first. Here professionals, and even more so consumers, are confused by a very detailed hierarchy, and each zone features its own to that.

There are the following quality levels and factors defining them for still dry wines in Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. The wine is classified as basic Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi if the yield equals 100 hectolitres per hectare. The word Classico can be used for wines from historic production areas which take about 80% of the territory. Superiore refers to Classico wines with lower yields at 75 hectolitres per hectare. Riserva and Classico Riserva at 75 hectolitres per hectare yields are aged minimum two years in the producer cellars, and the alcohol level cannot go below 13%.

Verdicchio di Matelica wines have only two categories. Basic Verdicchio di Matelica means maximum yields at 90 hectolitres per hectare, and Riserva — 70 hectolitres per hectare and two-year aging for release.

Besides two main stylistic differences between wines from Jesi and Matelica, several Verdicchio archetypes are distinguished. Basic wines normally offer clean, lively aromas of the alpine meadows and citruses and a full, soft palate of white fruit, almonds and spice. They are often sold in amphorae — bottles of a special shape which boosted Verdicchio’s commercial success in the second half of the 20th century. Wines of a higher quality level, most often Classico Superiore, have more body and concentration of aromas and flavours and always feature notes of minerals. One can also find many examples of wines from specially selected harvest and wines from single vineyards in this category. Daria Garofoli from a leading winery Garofoli notes that a typical quality Verdicchio wine will always feature three things — a good minerality, acidity and light bitterness in the aftertaste. Riserva wines show a different interpretation of the grape and highlight its ability to evolve in a bottle. These wines come to the market after a two-year aging and are often characterized by aromas reminiscent of Duchesse pears. They gradually soften and give way to nuances of sunflower oil, white fruit, almonds and finally earth. The leading producers of the area are Accadia, Bisci, Bonci, Casalfarneto, Del Carmine, Garofoli, Monteschiavo, San Lorenzo, Santa Barbara, Tenuta di Tavignano, Umani Ronchi.

Verdicchio’s potential for evolution is one of the trump cards often played by the winemakers. Thanks to good acidity, quality wines can indeed evolve in a bottle for several years, but they lag behind Riesling or Chenin Blanc for longetivity and complexity. Vertical tastings of the top wines back to 1994 from several leading produces led to conclusion that the most optimal evolution period for Verdicchio is 1-5 years after release. Still, in excellent vintages, such as 2004, 2001 and 1999 wines certainly have a bigger potential. Podium by Garofoli, Il Giuncare by Monteschiavo, San Michele by Bonci — these are several worthy examples with a good aging potential.

Aging in oak barrels remains a debatable issue. Most Verdicchio wines are fermented and aged in steel tanks, and only certain top wines see contact with wood. Winemakers consider the expensive vinification technique justified, but many critics find wines less expressive and the style — more oxidative. Everything depends on a winemaker’s skill. Such examples as Stefano Antonucci from Santa Barbara or Ori de Verdicchio from Pontemagno show a fine integration of the best qualities from the grape and the wood.

Verdicchio makes curious traditional method sparkling wines. They have persistent and elegant bubbles, lovely minerality and honey-and-nuts complexity with age. Limited production doesn’t make them a viable proposition for international markets, but those traveling around Marche should certainly try this local specialty.