Reviews

How Cavalli wines are dressed
Drinks+ December 2007

About 400 guests from fashion, business and wine worlds gathered at the Florentine villa of Roberto Cavalli in the middle of November.

The party, though, was unusual. World famous fashion designer was presenting not the latest clothes collection, but — as you may have guessed — wine. Bottles dressed in labels which were created personally by Cavalli ideally suited the glamorous setting. Yet the main round of applause went to the wine. Deservedly so as it became a new jewel of Maison Cavalli — as well as a good representative of the “haute” winemaking that originates from Tuscany.

Although the wine’s story starts from the Cavalli vineyards indeed, the initiative to make wine and all further work has been done by the designer’s eldest son Tommaso. He has been living in the Tuscan Tenuta degli Dei estate for nearly 20 years — in the property located in the very heart of the historic Chianti Classico wine zone. Breeding prize winning trotter horses is Tommaso’s first and foremost passion, but in 2000 he decided to launch a winemaking project.

“I have always loved this area. My father and I came here whenever we could when I was a boy, and it is here I learned to ride. Here horses and vineyards are integral parts of the landscape, and I cannot imagine this place without them, like I cannot imagine myself far from here”, says Tommaso.

From the very beginning Tommaso ensured support of a leading winemaking consultant Carlo Ferrini who has already created several top Italian wines. After soils analysis in March 2001 two vineyards were planted. One is located in Tenuta degli Dei in Panzano, on the southern slopes which consist of typical local galestro rock. The other is found at Roberto Cavalli Florentine estate where soil is dominated by clay. Total vineyard area is 7 hectares. Once all vines reach full production, the volume of wine will be around 40-45,000 bottles per year.

Taking into account that vineyards are located on historic Chianti Classico terroirs, Cavalli took an unexpected decision not to plant Sangiovese and not to make traditional wine. “On the one hand, the decision was taken as a sign of respect towards the many Chianti Classico producers of Panzano who make wonderful interpretations of the wine. On the other, I have to confess that we wanted to make our vineyards speak in a truly cosmopolitan way, in which each of the varietals present can give its contribution to a mizture of perfumes, aromas and flavours that is truly unique. This has nothing to do with fashion, or the so called “international style”; we simply seek to make a wine of great personality”, remarks Tommaso.

Thus vineyards were planted to five varieties — Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Alicante Bouchet (Italian way of calling Grenache). The first harvest was picked in 2004, and about 5,000 bottles were produced.

Facilities for wine making and aging are located in Panzano. The journey from Tenuta degli Dei vineyard to the winery takes less than five minutes. Small lorries with refrigerators are used to transport grapes from Florence. Best modern techniques — from double selection of berries to temperature control during fermentation to moving wine by gravitation — are used. Wine matures in used French barriques for 14 months. Then assemblage takes place, and the wine is aged for another 4-6 months in barrels and for one year in bottles.

So the debut of the first vintage finally arrived after nearly 8 years of preparatory work. There is only one wine, but Roberto Cavalli decided to dress it in two different outfits.

Cavalli Selection is decorated by a traditional label, although it will be changed every year. Best designs of Maison Cavalli will be featured at the two sides of the label. Vintage 2004 has the famous leopard print (collection of spring-summer 1996). Zebra and butterfly prints will be used for later vintages.

Cavalli Collection is nothing but haute couture design. A black, elegantly shaped bottle appears to be girdled by a snake, a favourite symbol of the Maison. The upper part is decorated by RC logotype, and the cork is closed by a special ornamented capsule. Bottles are crafted by artisans who make precious accessories for Cavalli collections. Exclusive Cavalli Collection version is sold in individual leather cases, as well as in sets with two black glasses and the artfully crafted cork screw in a shape of a snake.

Due to limited production 2004 vintage will be sold mainly in Tuscany — in ten top restaurants and ten leading enotecas. The next vintage has already found distribution routes in several key international markets.

In the meantime a young winemaker Tommaso Cavalli already dreams about planting new vineyards and even about producing the second wine. Time will tell how successful his plans will be. Yet, one cannot doubt that winemaking — along with breeding horses — has already become his other main occupation in life. He is just as passionate about it as his father is about creating best fashion collections for Maison Cavalli.