Reviews

Lafleur in the Guinaudeau era
«Magnum» №12(22) December-January 2007-2008

Lafleur is one of those outstanding, yet mysterious estates.

Not everyone knows about this tiny domain in Pomerol. Even fewer people had a chance to taste its mythical wines. Eleonora Scholes was invited to a high-profile tasting with thirty wines made in Lafleur.

Karl-Heinz Wolf couldn’t have dreamt of a better timing to host his Chateau Lafleur tasting. A week before dinner with 20 Lafleur vintages, organized by his Austrian WeinArt company, Christie’s in London ran a sensational sale of 74 lots of Lafleur where new price records were achieved. A six-litre imperial of Chateau Lafleur 2000 was sold for 29,250 pounds (58,500 dollars) with the initial high estimate of 16,000 pounds. A 12-bottle case of 1982 went under hammer for 19,125 pounds and six magnums of 2000 vintage — for 18,000 pounds.

But Mr. Wolf and his daughter Katharina, WeinArt’s general manager, had a reason to be more proud of their event because even Christie’s pre-auction master class didn’t gather the same unique lineup of wines that was presented in Austria. Seven best vinatges of the second wine Pensees de Lafleur and a full vertical tasting of Chateau Lafleur 1985-2006 from magnums were in store for the guests who arrived to the tasting dinner at the shores of the tranquil Attersee lake.

Lafleur name is not as well known to general wine public as Petrus or Le Pin, but the estate has long been worshiped by true lovers of Pomerol. Owners Jacques and Sylvie Guinaudeau seem to be happy with the existing situation. During the tasting I was lucky to sit next to Baptiste Guinaudeau, son of Jacques and Sylvie, an open and sincere young man. He revealed values and beliefs of the winemaking approach in Lafleur and pinpointed the family’s priorities.

Although the wine labels read Chateau Lafleur, in real life the estate has little in common with majestic Bordeaux chateaux. It’s a miniature farm with 4,5 hectares of vineyard, being more comparable to a Burgundian domaine. Association with Burgundy is not limited to the size of the vineyard and a modest house and winery. “Firstly, we are farmers. We prefer to keep a whole vision of viticulture and winemaking. In this respect we are closer to Burgundy than Bordeaux”, says Baptiste.

Lafleur has remained in the ownership of the same family for 135 years. In 1985 it came under management of Jacques and Sylvie Guinaudeau, and the family couple has been full proprietor since autumn 2001. Before them winemaking in Lafleur was managed by the negociant Jean-Pierre Moueix. The company was also in charge of distribution. Baptiste Guinaudeau is highly respectful of Jean-Claude Berrouet, the recently retired Petrus chief winemaker who shared his precious experience with the Guinaudeau family.

Today there are no consultants in the estate. Everything is done by Jacques, Sylvie, their 26-year-old son Baptiste and his fiancee Julie, as well as 10 (!) permanent workers. “We measure the vineyard not as 4,5 hectares, but as 24,000 individual vines. Every row has a number. A special person is assigned to it. He carries out all seasonal work on it — from winter to spring pruning, from green harvesting to picking the grapes. Thus we know each vine”, underlines Baptiste.

When the Guinaudeaus came to Lafleur, the main problems were irregular quality and poor expression of terroir in wines. According to Baptiste, the first objective was to achieve a regular high quality from one year to another. In 1987, just two years after the arrival, the Guinaudeaus decided to produce the second wine — Pensees de Lafleur, thus ensuring the highest level of quality for the grand vin. Their meticulous approach benefited Pensees de Lafleur as well, and the second wine quickly gained own reputation. Pensees de Lafleur is also made of selected harvest while the substandard grapes are sold. Lafleur’s second wine has long been an insider secret among Bordeaux lovers and collectors.

Situated across the road from Petrus and surrounded by Le Gay and Vieux Chateau Certan, the Lafleur vineyard lies in a whole block on the Pomerol plateau. Baptiste calls the soils warm. They are full of gravel and clay and deposits of potassium and iron. Even such a small vineyard features 4-5 terroir subtypes.

Unlike many leading Pomerol estates who commonly work with Merlot, the Lafleur vineyard is equally divided between Merlot and Cabernet Franc vines. “Cabernet Franc is our identity. Despite being a neighbour of Petrus, we are closer in style to Cheval Blanc rather than Petrus”, says Baptiste. Thanks to Cabernet Franc Lafleur wines possess an incomparably lush combination of fruit, spices and minerals, yet keep a well delineated structure that is normally attributed to the top Medoc wines. Powerful terroir translates into naturally high concentration of wine. One of the key features that allows to include Lafleur in the elite circle of great Bordeaux wines is its amazing longevity. 1947 and 1982 vintages are considered to be the unsurpassed examples of Chateau Lafleur greatness. According to a number of wine authorities they outshine even such legends as Cheval Blanc 1947, Mouton 1986 and Petrus 1989.

In this context the standing of the Guinaudeau family deserves utter respect as they are very anxious to protect the estate from a fashionable cult status. With a limited production of 10-15,000 bottles a year Jacques and Sylvie could choose an easy speculative way and take advantage of the high market demand. Lafleur, of course, cannot be afforded by everyone, but as Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve once noted, “the wine amply deserves its high prices”. The Guinaudeaus are more concerned about choosing right partners. “The problem is not to sell the wine, but to sell it to right people”, says Baptiste. He appeals to a human side and believes that wine merchants should introduce the wine properly to their customers and to explain to them that the wine is “an interlocutor for gastronomy”. To have their ideas heard by Chateau Lafleur final consumers, the Guinaudeaus changed their sales strategy since 2002. They refused Jean-Pierre Mouiex mediation on key international markets, but signed direct exclusive contracts with importers whom they also consider partners in the UK, USA and some other countries.

Although Lafleur has been in the Guinaudeau hands for over 20 years, Jacques and Sylvie still live in Mouillac in Fronsac. The family has owned Chateau Grand Village for five centuries where it continues to produce white and red wines. The tasting commenced with two white wines Grand Village blanc 2005 and 2006 both of which consist of equal shares of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Baptiste Guinaudeau notes that the estate’s white wine production has existed for a long time and made up a half of total production, but it was discounted with time. “We restarted in 1990, having planted 2 hectares on clay and limestone soils”. The estate tries to keep clean, fruity style with an aim to fix maximum aromas, according to Baptiste. Both offered vintages confirm his words. Grand Village blanc 2005 has sweet fruit and good minerality (++), and 2006 combines expressive citrus aromas with fresh, creamy, soft mineral flavours (++).

A barrel sample of Lafleur 2006 was a prelude to the main tasting. A sweet, wide nose of black berries and typical Cabernet Franc spice is followed by velvety, concentrated palate with an accent on freshness and fruit. The finish hasn’t developed a full volume yet, and oak can be detected, but already an attractive wine (++(+)).

A horizontal mini-tasting of 2005 consisted of three wines — Grand Village, Pensees de Lafleur and Lafleur. Grand Village 2005 is made with three quarters of Merlot plus a quarter of Cabernet Franc. It’s a generous wine, starting from the aromas and finishing with the aftertaste, with a well expressed, but somewhat linear nose of plums, cherries and spice and fresh, well balanced, very spicy flavours and a fine tannic support (++). Pensees de Lafleur, like Lafleur, has equal proportions of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, but they may slightly vary from one vintage to another. Both wines receive no more than 30-35% of new oak aging, and the rest matures in previously used Allier and Troncais barriques. Pensees de Lafleur 2005 has rich, plumy nose with finely integrated nuances of expensive wood. Fresh palate features a superb balance of elements and structure provided by long, fine tannins (++(+)). Lafleur 2005 is a truly great wine at the early stages of formation. Rather shy on the nose, but with a serious depth and presence of black fruit. The palate strikes a golden section between freshness, fruitiness, structure and intensity, with a stunning quality and potential of all elements. The finish is staying, full, enveloping, spicy and seductive. No point opening now — the wine will evolve and live for many decades (+++!).

The next flight was dedicated to Pensees de Lafleur 2000, 1995, 1990 and 1988. Decision to produce the second wine was taken with 1987 vintage, and, according to Guinaudeau, it was an innovative concept in Bordeaux at the time. Baptiste claims that “we always realize the importance of the second wine for the first after 10-15 years of the wine’s evolution”. Average production of Pensees de Lafleur is 5-6,000 bottles. In quality it regularly vies even with some grands vins of the classified chateaux. Vintage 2000 has now entered a closed phase. Fruit nearly disappeared, aromas of young shoots and chocolatey nuances come forward instead. Attractive ripe tannins provide a good structure, the chocolatey palate shows first tertiary notes of tobacco and a cigar box. Powerful, chocolatey finish. A “masculine” wine (++(+)). Contrasting Pensees de Lafleur 1995 wins over with a seductive, even decadent character. Superb, refined, seamless nose of red fruit, especially currants and cherries. Fruity, easy, but well structured palate with evolved nuances of a cigar box; a lengthy, enchanting finish (++(+)). Wine of 1990 vintage showed Mediterranean rather than Atlantic character. Evolved notes of earth and dried fruit in aromas; rather calm flavours of dried cherries, cigar box, spices; tannic structure comes forward in the end. Bright spices in the finish dominate over fruit. Later Baptiste called 1990 the vintage of extremes. The yields were nice, but end of August saw unusual for Bordeaux warm southern wind which stayed for 3 weeks. Concentration, as well as acidity was high, but some berries shriveled through the lack of water. The harvest consisted of 80 percent of normal grapes and 20 percent of shriveled (++). Pensees de Lafleur 1988 has now reached a glorious peak of development. It demonstrates easily recognizable noble character typical for the best Bordeaux wines. Special praise goes to amazing freshness, excellent structure, though with slightly drying tannins, nuances of cigar box and spices (++(+)).

Four further flights were a consecutive vertical tasting of Lafleur 2004-1985. First Lafleur 2004, 2003, 2002, 2001 were served. Vintage 2004 is now full of aromas of red fruit and flowers. The palate is built on fresh fruit and berries, enveloping tannins and softly integrated acidity. Persistent finish. A composed, classic vintage that gives a great drinking pleasure (++(+)). The wine of the torrid 2003 was widely supported by the critics during the en primeur tastings. Indeed, there are no baked fruit or rough tannins typical for a number of Merlot-dominated Right Bank wines of this vintage. Although Lafleur 2003 is more lush and with less grace than usual, it shows excellent fruit in aromas, with added floral notes, and it is easy to drink. A frontal finish (++(+)). Winemaking work during a difficult, rainy 2002 vintage also deserves compliments. Baptiste Guinaudeau notes that years like 2002 require an especially careful assessment of the situation from the winemaker and its objective reflection through wine. That’s why grapes in Lafleur that year were harvested during 16 days — against one and a half in 2005. As a result, there is no dilution, and the wine has a good frame and long, ripe tannins. It is accessible, elegant and very attractive thanks to refined aromas and cedary flavours (++(+)). Lafleur 2001 has a lot in common with 2004 vintage, but they are not twins. This classic vintage boasts more concentration and depth, more pronounced minerality and spiciness and generally shows more fundamental, eloquent character (++(+)-+++).

Next Lafleur 2000, 1999, 1998 and 1997 were offered. Powerful wine from 2000 impresses by the natural super concentration of aromas and flavours, yet doesn’t lack in elegance. Deep, presently restrained nose of black fruit and young shoots. The palate is powerful, rich, with black fruit, spice and chocolate. Those who already have the wine in their cellars need to be patient for at least another ten years to see wine’s potential in all its splendour (+++). In a vertical tasting Lafleur 1999 loses to its two neighbour vintages — 2000 and 1998 — in strength of character, but certainly has its charm. The nose reminds of sweet aromas of a plum cake dusted with sugar powder. Bright spice, black chocolate and racy acidity adorn the palate. Tannins are not fully ripe, and the wine finishes on chocolatey notes. The wine reveals its charm at a table, as a partner to a good meal. Baptiste Guinaudeau confirmed that the year wasn’t easy. Yields were generous with a potential problem of dilution. It started to rain 2-3 days before picking which posed a dilemma for winemakers — to wait or to pick. In Lafleur, like in Petrus and Le Pin they decided not to risk and picked harvested earlier (++(+)). Vintage 1998, on the contrary, bore an outstanding quality of grapes on the Right Bank. Lafleur 1998 greatly affirms to it. The usual primary fruit in aromas are subdued and have given room to cedary notes. In general, the wine has refined, elegant nose. The palate is fresh, blackcurranty, with a monumental structure and persistence. The wine leaves most memorable impression as a Bordeaux in one of its glorious manifestations (+++). Vintage 1997 which caused a wide resonance because of a generally ambitious pricing and a subsequent commercial failure is now drinking surprisingly well and still has several years to go. The nose still features aromas of red and black currants. The wine has a reasonably good structure, the flavours have evolved towards tobacco and cigar box. A persistent aftertaste finishes on chocolatey notes. Baptiste Guinaudeau called the year irregular. The start of the vegetative cycle was one of the earliest, the weather was “tropical”, with intermittent heat and rains in July when vines wouldn’t stop growing. In the end of August ripe berries were mixed with the green ones in bunches. The autumn was rainy. The vintage required a very thorough selection and was, as Baptiste put it, “a good experience for all” (++(+)).

The next flight included Lafleur 1996, 1995, 1994 and 1993. In a pair of two successful in Bordeaux vintages 1996 and 1995 the latter is usually described as a better one for the Right Bank. It seems to be true for Lafleur as well. Unexpected fine notes reminiscent of the iodine and the sea come out in aromas of the 1996 vintage. ‘Masculine’ palate with a tight vertical structure, freshness, evolved nuances of cigar box, spices and earth. Full, expressive finish (++(+)). In the meanwhile, Lafleur 1995 is an example of a superb combination of refinement and power. Seductive pure fruit in the aromas. Fresh, impeccably integrated palate with noble cedary notes; refined, but substantial tannic structure, flavours of chocolate and spices. A true star (+++). Wine of 1994 is as if made from a completely opposite character of grapes. An earthy nose, edgy, drying tannins typical for the vintage, intense spicy-chocolatey palate and finish. Polished manners of 1995 gave way to familiarity of 1994 (++(+)). In 1993 like in 1994 picking was dampened by rains. The character of Lafleur 1993 seems to have suffered greater in this vintage. Earthy notes of a cellar in aromas. Fruit flavours remain, but the wine has an edgy, rustic tannic structure and lacks usual balance. Good length in the finish (++).

The last Lafleur flight featured vintages 1990, 1989, 1988, 1985. One of the hottest years of the decade, 1990 brought an unusually high concentration in the grapes. Baptiste Guinaudeau even made a comparison with a quality of harvest for great ports. Supple aromas of Lafleur 1990 show sweet black fruit and iodine character. Intense palate is supported by an excellent structure of the enveloping tannins, minerality, nuances of a cigar box. Persistent finish with notes of sweet liqueur. A ‘gentleman’s’ wine that has reached the evolutionary plateau where it will remain for several years (++(+)-+++). Another renowned vintage is 1989. It has powerful structure, but impresses more through its great charm. Refined nose with notes of pencil shavings, less spice and more focus on the palate. Long, bright finish. The wine on the peak of development (++(+)-+++). Lafleur 1988 seemed rather one-dimensional. Earthy aromas, racy acidity, edgy tannins which dominate in the finish, very evolved fruit (++). Lafleur 1985 is the first vintage of Jacques and Sylvie Guinaudeau. Fine, well integrated nose of evolved fruit. Palate is fresh, with balanced acidity. Noticeable tannins which remain in the finish. Although the wine lacks definition and focus of elements typical for the latest vintages, in the retrospect this vintage witnesses a new idea of winemaking which was brought by the Guinaudeaus in 1985. It aims for a perfect balance as one of the inherent values of a great wine (++(+)).

For the final flight Lafleur 1992, Lafleur 1986, Pensees de Lafleur 1991 and Pensees de Lafleur 1987 were chosen. An eclectic lineup at a glance, but it makes one review a stereotypical attitude to certain vintages and concentrate on real quality of wines. During a disastrous by everyone’s accord 1992 vintage it didn’t stop raining for one day. Yet, Lafleur 1992 is amazingly attractive. Fine, well integrated, savoury aromas. The palate is elegant keeping the spice and bright character of Cabernet Franc, expressive fruit, medium tannic structure, still far from fading away (++(+)). Lafleur 1986 is an outstanding wine of a praised vintage. Ripe, rich, intense nose of fruit with iodine and earthy notes. The palate is fresh, concentrated, mineral, drying tannins, graceful and still ongoing evolution (+++). During their work, the Guinaudeaus didn’t produce Lafleur two times — in 1987 and 1991, as they thought that the vintages were not good enough for a grand vin. Instead, grapes were used for Pensees de Lafleur. Ninety one is the year of unforgettable April frosts which destroyed practically the entire future crop. Only 8 barrels of wine were made. The quality of Pensees de Lafleur 1991 is striking. The wine captivates by its depth and intense richness of aromas and flavours. With an aristocratic poise and excellent structure, close in spirit to Lafleur (++(+)). In 1987 it was raining heavily during the harvest, yet the elegantly crafted Pensees de Lafleur 1987 has kept power, richness, structure, fruit and will happily continue to live in its third decade (++(+)).

This exceptional tasting will stay in memory for several reasons. Firstly, undoubtedly, thanks to the Lafleur wines. While preserving their Bordeaux origin and character, they possess an integral and inimitable style which brings them in the class of their own and defines them as great wines of Bordeaux. Just as important is the work of Jacques, Sylvie and Baptiste Guinaudeau. It deserves recognition, respect and great admiration. The family continues to work humbly, and their well advanced skills have given them an opportunity to come to a full understanding of the terroir and vineyard potential and to refine, with a jeweler’s precision, all facets of a magnificent diamond called Lafleur.

+++ — outstanding
++ — excellent
+ — good