Reviews

Vintage Croft: chronicles of the century
«Magnum» №1-2 (23) 2008

There is a good reason why vintage ports belong to a limited category of the world’s greatest wines.

Their production technology, as we know it today, stayed largely due to pragmatic reasons — to ensure wines’ stability during transportation, but it also proved an ingenious conservation method for a longer period of time. A fine balance of fruitiness, tannins, sugar and alcohol allows port to evolve for decades and makes it one of the longest lived wines of the world. Twenty wines spanning over a century were featured at the epochal Croft tasting.

Croft is one of historic Douro shippers. For a long period of time, 1678 was believed to be the company’s founding year. A recent research found evidence that the company was opened in 1588 which confirms its status as the oldest port producer. It was founded by the English family of the Thompsons, and the Crofts joined it in early 18th century due to marriage between the dynasties. By 1827 Croft had become the fourth largest port shipper with production of 1348,5 pipes. In 1889 the company acquired Quinta da Roeda which today remains as one of the greatest jewels of the Douro Valley.

There were many bright personalities in the Croft family. Among them was John Croft II who got his fame through publishing Treatise on the Wines of Portugal in 1788, the first of its kind. John Croft IV known as Jack Croft was a British spy during the Peninsular wars.

It is also possible to trace the episodes in the company history related to Russia. One of the Crofts was a secretary of the British embassy in Russia in 1804. Thirty seven years later he was appointed Ambassador to Russia and he lived in St Petersburg. There are also several curious facts and even incidents regarding trade with Russia. In 1829 total export of all shippers was 17,981.5 pipes of which 17,832 were sent to Great Britain. The next largest national consumer was Sweden with 69 pipes, while Russian and Genoa received a mere quarter of a pipe each. In mid-19th century Croft decided to develop its export markets. In February 1848 first large consignment consisting of 12 pipes, 20 half pipes and 32 canastas (baskets) was sent to St Petersburg. The Russian market turned out to be unreliable. When 39 pipes were shipped to St Petersburg in 1852, Croft didn’t receive accounts, sales or money from its Russian agent. Bad debts of this nature were extraordinarily rare in the history of the house…

The company’s modern development witnesses several changes of ownership. In the second half of the 20th century Croft was subject to several large corporate deals. It was without exaggeration saved when The Fladgate Partnership bought it in 2001. The family holding specializes in premium production and owns such well established names as Taylor’s, Fonseca and Delaforce.

The tasting was organized in conjunction with a plan to publish a book on history and wines of the house of Croft. The event took place in Factory House, a historic gentlemen’s club with a membership still restricted only to the leading port shippers. About a dozen of international experts were invited. The company’s key representatives, including Chairman Alistair Robertson, CEO Adrian Bridge, marketing director Nick Heath, chief winemaker David Guimaraens and master blender Natasha Bridge were also present on the tasting panel.

Main stylistic features of vintage Croft are the dominance of fruit in aromas and flavours, full body, good concentration and particular sweetness of elements. Frequent change of ownership in the second half of the 20th century affected the wine’s consistency, but the latest two vintages made under management of The Fladgate Partnership demonstrate return to a unique recognizable style as well as prove the company’s commitment to achieve the best potential for the vineyards which produce grapes for vintage Croft.

1900
Late vintage of excellent quality. Delicate and harmonious wines. Harvest started on 1st October in slightly cool and cloudy conditions which improved four days later and became much hotter for the rest of the harvest.
Light amber colour with a lively sheen. The nose is warm, open, with a direct attack of raisiny-resiny aromas and marked presence of alcohol. The palate is light, first silky, then edgy. Bright spice, tea, dried fruit, toffee. “Hot” finish, burning the upper palate and even lips. Remarkable for a 107-year-old wine. After two hours in the glass aromas faded leaving ethereal nuances. The palate became creamy, very toffee/caramel. The finish acquired a seductive feel. Beautiful evolution in the glass.

1927
The rainfall at the end of September was beneficial. A late harvest, beginning of October, with very hot weather. A classic, one of the finest vintages of the century, concentrated, aromatic and well balanced. Exported in 1929, coinciding with the Great Depression. The agents in London had difficulty in selling it.
Light, but not weak colour of a faded rose. The nose shows a more focused bouquet than 1900. Good depth, tarry-resiny tone with a pronounced iodine note. The palate is rather soft, with good concentration of dried fruit, light spice, nuts. Wine with wonderful appeal. Lifted finish. Beautiful harmony, now shows more ‘feminine’ than ‘masculine’ side. After two hours aromas turn into fine nuances of resin, palate is earthy, sous-bois, tea.

1931
The winter was dry and the summer exceptionally cold and dry, including the month of August. A late harvest at the end of September in ideal conditions. An exceptional vintage, one of the best of the century. The unsettled international conditions led to a reduction in demand for expensive wines and only a few port houses declared.
Colour of a faded rose, like previous, but more definition at the rim and polish. The nose shows strong presence of earthy notes, ‘a spirit of cellar’. Light ethereal notes can be detected along with fine sweetness. The palate is fresh, seamless, toffee and nuts, good weight, traces of tannins. The palate leaves a much greater impression than the nose. Rich, full, powerful finish. After a break the aromas and the flavours decompose, only the finish remains with volume.

1935
A classic vintage, but some companies did not declare having declared the 1934. A very dry winter and an exceptionally cold spring with frost. The flowering was late and the summer unstable but the harvest was bathed in sunshine.
Brown-reddish colour, deeper than previous, light at the rim. Finely perfumed nose, but perhaps lacks extra complexity. Iodine notes dominate. The palate is fresh, with marked sweetness — more than all previous. A distinct character of walnut jam. Plenty of spice — cinnamon, cloves. Very weighty on the palate, and the finish leaves a huge impact. With time toffee aromas dominate. The palate is with dried fruit. The balance of elements remains, but sweetness is too high, leaving a sticky, heavy finish.

1942
A very dry winter followed by a cold spring caused flowering to be late, but some train in June brought the grapes forward. The harvest started on the 2nd September, the weather was cool and dull. First vintage almost exclusively bottled in Portugal, due to the war. Excellent quality, elegant and fruity.
Same colour as in previous. The nose is opening rather reluctantly releasing charming aromas of candied fruit, lots of refinement. The palate is fresh, light, easy going. Elegant character of candied fruit continues. Well balanced, with a soft tannic touch. Drinking very well now. After evolution in a glass — finely perfumed, with good depth. Elegant flavours keep soft tannins. A lovely wine.

1945
Dry year, with a very warm summer, with only some rain at the end of August. Great drought all over the Douro. Harvest began on 14th September under very warm conditions. Classic vintage, with great concentration and stamina.
The darkest colour in the flight of the first 8 wines. Amazing concentration of aromas, yet fresh. Nose still shows fresh black fruit and curious saltiness. Palate is rich, powerful, concentrated, beautifully preserves the character of fruit, there are also nutty and salty nuances. Powerful frame, great impact on the palate and finish. Outstanding. After a while the nose opens up with a complex palette of nuances. The palate is seamless and aristocratic. A great Croft.

1947
There was good rainfall during the winter which was much needed for the vines suffering from the three year drought. Excellent weather conditions throughout the year. Quantity as anticipated was small, but the grapes very sound as the weather ideal. The wines took plenty of work and colour was excellent.
Polished brown colour. Light candied fruit, freshness, herbal notes in aromas. Palate shows good elegance, but somewhat reminds of sherry. Nutty, chocolaty. Tannic structure reveals itself in the end. Hot finish. After a break — pleasant wood vanilla and a chemist shop aromas. Sherry character remains on the palate, dried fruit appear. More balanced finish.

1948
A mixed spring saw the weather improve in June, but then abate into a chilly July. Hot weather and east winds in August dried the grapes and similar weather in September continued the process. The harvest started on the 27th September in warm conditions and the good weather stayed throughout.
More intense colour than in previous. Aromas lack precise definition, there are slightly musty notes. Palate is light, with candied and dried fruit, orange peel, oriental spice. Good freshness and balance. Full, persistent finish. With time aromas develop caramel notes. The palate shows more minerals, crème brulee, toffee. Persistent finish remains.

1955
There was a heatwave at the end of April and early May. Rain at the end of May was beneficial for the flowering. July and August were hot, and by harvest time, which started on the 19th September, the bunches were in excellent condition.
Brown-red of medium intensity. Lifted nuanced nose, with medicinal notes. The attack on the palate starts softly, but then transforms into concentrated, even rough feeling of alcoholic warmth, behind which dried fruit, tobacco and spice are detected. Hot, spicy finish. Rather a ‘wild beast’. After rest in a glass aromas fade, alcoholic warmth stays. Notes of tea, dried fruit, raisins appear on the palate, and a brush of tannins is felt.

1960
Good rainfall throughout the year with rain falling in every month. Although the moth of May was wet, no damage was done to the fruit as the vines were very backward. June was warm and July was hot. The harvest started warm and fine on the 19th September, but then became dull, rainy and cool. The wines took a lot of work and the colour was good.
Intense red-brown. Nose has plenty of freshness and appealing sweetness. Not bulky, but well defined character of dried fruit and nuts. Palate is well structured and proportioned. Jammy fruit. Still a way to go. Full, retronasal finish. A prime example of masculine elegance.

1963
A cold winter was followed by a wet spring. Christmas day temperature of -4 degrees was one of the lowest for many years. Apart from two periods of hot weather in July and August, the summer was cool. The harvest started on 7th October with perfect weather, hot days and cool nights.
A very fine veil of aromas rather than an obvious nose. Freshness and — surprise — still fresh fruit. Aromas are those more of a wine than of a classic vintage. Palate has medium concentration, sweetness dominates, slightly drying tannic frame. Black fruit. Full, rich finish with intense black chocolate in the end. Aromas, flavours and aftertaste follow with increasing power. A crescendo wine.

1966
The winter of 1965-1966 was very wet, and generally rather warm. May was one of the hottest on record, followed by a very hot and dry summer. The vines were very backward till early September when a few days of extremely hot weather brought the fruit on considerably. The harvest started on 26th September.
Good intensity of colour. Fruity perfumes with distinctive notes of raspberry and black fruit. Good concentration and complexity. Palate is well integrated, finely balanced. Fruit, chocolate, licorice inside a big tannic frame. Flavours continue in an intense, lingering finish. An archetypal Croft. With time aromas evolve towards dried fruit, good balance remains. The wine offers a great drinking pleasure.

1970
Winter rainfall was slightly above average, followed by a very dry spring and further rain in June. From July through to October almost no rain fell and the harvest which started on 21st September was made under ideal conditions. A vintage of exceptional quality, with well integrated tannins and plenty of fruit, assuring a long life.
Slightly less colour intensity, than in previous, but better definition at the rim, more red hue. A youthful nose reminds of a lawn with forest berries. Note of fresh leaves. Palate is easy going, fresh, gives a deceiving impression of simplicity, whereas in fact has plenty of fine nuances, power and a substantial tannic frame. The character continues all the way through to a long, staying finish.

1975
A wet winter was followed by a long dry summer with almost no rain, with the exception of a heavy thunderstorm in May. The last four days of September saw over eight centimeters of rainfall. This was followed by a period of warm and sunny weather and a harvest which was carried out under good conditions.
Same appearance as previous. Nose of green grape stalks and fresh sweet fruit. Lacks typical port power. Palate is fresh, silky, easy drinking, medium concentration, with notes of jam and licorice. Rather full, lingering finish. Some earthy nuances prove early evolution.

1977
The winter of 1976-1977 was one of the wettest on record, with over 60 centimetres of rain falling between October and March, and after three years of drought this rain was very welcome. Yields in the valleys were generally on the high side as the skins were thin. Harvest started on 10th October.
Light red ruby colour. Calm, restrained nose of fruit and vegetal notes which remind of grape stalks. Palate is fresh, soft, fruity and with a certain dilution. Bright spice. More red fruit, than black. Tannins come in fore after the main attack of flavours. Rather flat finish.

1985
The 1985 vintage was preceded by an exceptionally cold, wet winter. Bud burst took place early in April and flowering around the end of May. The summer was hot throughout. Harvest started 26th September, by the close of harvest it was apparent that the year had produced wines of exceptional quality.
Medium intensity ruby. Nose unsettled, still very young, bursting with fruit. Very good freshness. Palate shows excellent balance and great harmony between fruit / sweetness / tannins. Too young, will need at least another 20 years to unite parts into a great whole. Could it be another ’45?

1991
January to March saw heavy rain. April was also wet and flowering took place in May, in warm dry weather. The summer was hot and dry and the flower set was excellent, resulting in a lot of fruit on the vines. Picking started on 23rd September in seasonal weather.
Dark ruby with a faded rim. Nose has deep, fresh aromas of fresh fruit, all very balanced. Again, excellent balance on the palate. It is concentrated, but not lacking elegance, still holding on primary fruit — black fruit and plums, with a supporting but unobtrusive tannic frame. Long, staying finish on notes of chocolate and figs.

1994
The winter of 1993-1994 was extremely wet throughout the region. As a result, most vineyards experienced a very low yield, with production down as much as 75% in relation to the average in some areas of the Douro. In spite of the poor start, the growing season was satisfactory, with dry warm weather broken only by a few short periods of rain. Harvest started in early September under excellent conditions.
Dark ruby, intense colour. A very charming nose redolent of redcurrants, raspberries, blackberries — a full berry basket. Palate of great poise, seductive, elegant, with customary concentration. Blackberry jam, chocolate and licorice are supported by a discreetly presented, but strong tannic frame. The finish is loose, needs more time to unite elements. A true beauty that will charm even more with time.

2000
A wet 1999 vintage was followed by a cold and dry winter with almost no rain. April and May were very wet, June and July very dry and the first half of August very hot, picking started on 20th September. The resulting wines were big and full bodied with intense colour and very attractive perfumed aromas.
Black-ruby colour with an intense ruby rim. Fine nose, now exudes frshnes, really refined fruit from a great depth. Intriguing, plenty of nuance. Palate is rich, outstanding balance, redolent of violets, still a baby. Great minerally finish. Power and concentration. Gorgeous.

2003
The winter preceding the 2003 harvest was very wet. Flowering took place in bright warm weather at the end of May in some of the best conditions seen for several years. The first two weeks of August provided the intense summer heat which often precedes a great port vintage. The picking season in September was warm and dry and the yields were even across all grape varieties, ensuring balance and complexity in the wines.
Virtually black with a violet rim. Primary aromas of well ripened black fruit and plum cake. Remarkable depth, balance and concentration. Palate is velvety, with masses of tannin which form a great frame for equally concentrated fruit. Good minerality comes out. Great impact in finish, full of chocolate, fruit and minerals.

Comment by Neal Martin, www.eRobertParker.com
“If Taylors is regarded to be the "Latour of Port" (which I would agree with based on the vertical) then what does that make Croft? Certainly if there was one revelation about the tasting, it was the quality of the older vintages of Croft, e.g. the 1935 and 1945. I thought they had great personality, a real femininity about them. In a way, they reminded me of a recent tasting I did of Gruaud Larose (see eRP!) That is not meant to be disparaging towards Croft in terms of Bordeaux Cru Class status, but the ancient Gruaud’s were similarly full of femininity and personality, just like those Croft’s”.