Reviews

A thousand faces of Rioja
«Vinnaya Karta» №3 (94) April 2008

A great Spanish region entered the 21st century continuing to develop wine production and its quality.

Regulating Council of Rioja held a seminar at Madridfusion forum in the capital of Spain to demonstrate what is happening in the region today.

Rioja is one of the oldest denominated areas for wine production. Its borders were formally defined over 80 years ago. Traditions on which modern production is based are even older and go back to the mid-19th century. Today Rioja vineyards cover about 63,500 hectares, and total volume of wine is 400 mln. bottles. Though some white and rose wine is made, the region’s main reputation is for reds which account for 85% of all production. Three main subregions within Rioja are Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Baja.

Today Rioja has secured a firm position among the world’s best recognized wine zones, and one of the key reasons for that is the region’s adaptability to the changing conditions of the present time. It keeps pace with modern developments, but without losing traditional values. Riojan winemaking always offers two sides. One is following historic practices based on working with Tempranillo and other local varieties, as well as long barrel aging of wines. The other is producing wines to suit modern taste.

In the nineties wine journalists and critics liked to talk about strong opposition between traditional and modernist winemaking in Rioja. The latter was usually linked to production of a new style of expressive, concentrated wines aged in French, not American oak barrels. In reality, it would be more correct to describe the end of the 20th century as a period of bold experiments when progressively thinking winemakers were trying to get maximum results out of grapes as well as their interaction with new French oak. Such wines often got wide international recognition which intensified their polarization to traditional offerings.

Since then things have calmed down thanks to general increase in quality. Classic wines (freshness, often due to higher acidity, red fruit flavours with notes of earth, leather, spices) which still account for up to 90% of production, peacefully co-exist with modernist interpretations (dominant black fruit, strong tannic frame, high level of alcohol and flavours resulted from aging in new French oak).

The Madrid tasting was called “A thousand international faces of Rioja”. Thus attention was focused on internationally recognised wines. The selection, though, wasn’t limited to wines of the new wave of Riojan winemaking. Tasters were offered traditional, neo-classic and avant-garde wines. General quality was high, so the main discussion was around their stylistic features as well as changes in the estates. A prominent Spanish critic Andres Proensa and a well known British expert on Spanish wines John Radford took part in the discussion among others.

White wines of Rioja are not widely present on international markets due to limited production and, in most cases, mediocre quality. Remelluri and Vina Tondonia are two notable exceptions. The former comes from La Granja de Nuestra Senora de Remelluri which is located on the grounds of a former medieval monastery and is known as one of the key Riojan producers of the modern school. The wine is a complex blend of local and international varieties and is aged in oak barrels. It can be said that the wine offers an original interpretation of “white” Rioja, though its rich bouquet of fruit, flowers and spices is associated rather with a heavy baroque style. Lopez de Heredia remains faithful to traditional values for nearly a century and a half, and its wines, including offered for tasting Vina Tondonia Riserva 1989, are superb examples of the old school of winemaking which finds followers also today. Fresh, refined, well integratedя, this wine is ideal at a table as a meal accompaniment.

Propiedad Herencia Remondo from Bodegas Palacios Remondo is not a typical Riojan red as it is produced with a high share of Garnacha (35%). This grape is undervalued in Rioja, as John Radford states. Alvaro Palacios, a famous winemaker and owner of Bodegas Palacios Remondo, is one of the few who believe in its potential in the area — on condition of the grape’s proper cultivation and vinifcation.

Some critics argue that Bodegas Roda wines cannot be called truly Riojan as they as made in an avant-garde mode. I find such opinions too flat. It should be noted that the company controls 26 vineyards, but in any one year uses grapes only from 17 (the rest are sold). Selection of best grapes and vinification using ultramodern equipment contribute to highest possible quality. Roda I 2004 tasted at the seminar cannot be accused of a diluted Tempranillo character. In fact, it keeps well all varietal characteristics, and the elegant, refined, supple style allows the wine to be an ambassador of Rioja on foreign markets.

Bodegas Lan also belongs to the group of innovative estates. Its Lan Edicion Limitada 2004 has fine perfumed aromas and superbly structured, fresh, superior flavours.

Torre Muga 2004 from Bodegas Muga and 890 Gran Reserva 1995 from La Rioja Alta are associated with a classic camp, but classic doesn’t mean outdated. Both wines possess typical for traditional wines freshness, suppleness and balance which make them — unlike many superconcentrated, highly extracted, heavy wines — an indispensable partner for a good lunch of dinner. By the way, Bodegas Muga wines are among just a handful in the group of traditionalists which are traded at world’s leading auctions.

During the seminar some hot topics were discussed including wines’ varietal mix and the tendency of rising alcohol in wines. Experts noted that during blending winemakers should be especially careful with secondary local varieties — Graciano and Mazuelo, and with international, such as Cabernet Sauvignon.

Discussion of the alcohol levels brought about different points of view. While some unconditionally criticized wines with higher than usual alcohol, others demonstrated a more reasonable approach which takes into account general balance and the quality of fruit and acidity in wine.

Tasters also had an opportunity to evaluate Ysios Edicion Limitada Reserva 2001 from Bodegas Ysios, Conde de la Salceda Reserva 2001 from Vina Salceda, Baron de Chirel 2001 from Marques de Riscal and Castillo Igay Gran Reserva 1998 from Bodegas Marques de Murrieta.