Reviews

Supertuscan pioneers: 40 years of history
«Enoteka» №4-5(63) 2008

Time runs fast.

The Supertuscan phenomenon which seems to have appeared only recently, is celebrating its next milestone. It is 40 years since Vigorello was first made. It was the first wine to be made in the end of 1960s outside of conventional Chianti Classico production. Yet again to confirm its title of a pioneer, San Felice which produced Vigorello and along with a small group of other estates launched innovative winemaking projects in the region, staged a unique event. It gathered 17 producers who initiated the Supertuscan movement and who changed direction of wine history not only in their own area, but in all Italy.

Events of those years have been told and retold many times. The philosophy of quality that was embraced by visionary winemakers in 1970-1980s led to creation of a new type of wines. They were produced with better winegrowing techniques and most progressive vinification technologies. Pioneers of the new quality movement worked on the territory of Chianti Classico. But because production didn’t conform to the rules, wines could formally be classified only as vini da tavola (table wines — the lowest category in the Italian wine hierarchy). Thanks to the quality that was by far superior to what was in the region 30-40 years ago, English speaking journalists were quick to call them Supertuscan. The name was stuck, and though there have been many changes since, including on the legislative level, today the Supertuscan category describes a group of wines which come from all Tuscany and which are made according to a certain production philosophy.

When analyzing Supertuscan revolution, journalists and experts primarily referred to changes in blends and to the use of French oak barrels. In comparison with usual Chianti, these two aspects had a marked influence on new wine styles and were widely discussed. Traditional Sangiovese, like Pinot Noir, has a refined aromatic bouquet, but loses it when vineyards are not tended properly and when a substantial amount of white grapes is used, like it was practiced in many estates in the mid-20th century. More powerful Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot were added to it. Even small proportions of these grapes, especially Cabernet, take an upper hand in blends with Sangiovese and influence both wine’s bouquet and structure. New chocolate and coffee notes came as a shock, as well as a new depth which came from aging in French oak — something that Sangiovese wines had never seen before (more typical for wines were licorice notes or the lack of woody notes at all, as wines were aged in huge casks of several thousand litres which were not renewed in decades). Overall, wines became more intense in colour, flavours and structure and could further age in bottle.

But to speak only about foreign grapes and French barrels means to simplify the picture of Supertuscan initiatives. Winemakers started to think about potential of their soils and vineyards. Along with new plantings of Bordeaux and other grapes, they studied Sangiovese and bottled it in purezza (without other varieties). Revolution happened in the vineyards and wineries. Best winegrowing practices were used for vines, and latest winemaking technologies — for wines. There is, however, another side, often missed by many observers. Supertuscan story would not have proved so successful if it wasn’t for strong individuals who turned there ideals and dreams into life and created a new class of original and, at times, unique wines in Tuscany.

Unlike in any other Old World country, the role of personalities is equally important (and at times even supersedes) the role of varieties and terroirs. It can partly be explained by the fact that Italy hasn’t yet built vineyard hierarchies like in France or Germany. Besides, Italians as a people are very individualistic. If it wasn’t for Piero Antinori, the Supertuscan story could have remained a local phenomenon. Thanks to Antinori the world also learnt about Giacomo Tachis, a great winemaker who is esteemed in Italy as much as Emile Peynaud — in France.

New quality movement in Chianti Classico was supported by other people, too, even if their names are not known internationally as much as Antinori and Tachis. If it wasn’t for Giulio Gambelli — a veteran enologist whose talent is respected just like that of Giacomo Tachis, who knows what would the famous Supertuscan Le Pergole Torte by Montevertine be like? Meanwhile, Vigorello — along with many San Felice innovative projects — is linked to Enzo Morganti. Not only did he take care of the estate, but he also made San Felice a place where leading winemakers gathered to discuss their problems. Franco Bernabei, Vittorio Fiore, Maurizio Castelli are also all recognized winemakers who together with estate owners turned Supertuscan initiatives into a success story. As Vittorio Fiore noted during the tasting, Supertuscan wines were possible thanks to “our stubbornness and pride. We tried to achieve the best possible results”.

The Supertuscan movement went through several periods. They can be conventionally divided into the initial phase of development from the end of the 1960s to mid-1980s. Then followed sales boom till the end of the century. The period of market saturation and gradually weakening consumer interest have been witnessed since the beginning of this century. There is a number of reasons why Supertuscan wines as a general category are losing ground. Region’s winemaking standards have greatly improved. Today Supertuscan category is no longer viewed as a quality leader like several decades ago. There is an abundance of Supertuscan labels — they are made not only in Chianti Classico, but in almost all wine estates throughout Tuscany. This causes confusion among professionals and consumers alike. Still, the reputation of wines made by those twenty producers who started the new quality movement, remains high. They have become modern classics in Tuscany — this, unfortunately cannot be said about numerous ‘clones’ which spread around the region in the past several years.

“Supertuscan wines 1968-2008: Chianti Classico pioneers yesterday and today” tasting in San Felice yet again confirmed that the group of pioneering estates is an example that can be followed even today. Managing director Alessandro Marchionne could have celebrated Vigorello 40th anniversary by doing a vertical tasting of the wine, but he decided to have a wider event. He proposed to use this date for an event with participation of the first Supertuscan wines which were made bеfore 1985. Sixteen producers supported the idea, and it culminated into an unprecedented tasting of historic vintages and a horizontal tasting of 2001 vintage. Great help for organizing the event came from Giorgio Pinchiorri, owner of a renowned Florentine restaurant Enoteca Pinchiorri with a unique wine collection. He supplied several wines for the tasting. The winemakers were also generous, at times giving away last bottles which were left in their cellars.

The following wines were presented at the tasting in a chronological order of Supertuscan history — Vigorello (San Felice), Tignanello (Marchesi Antinori), Le Pergole Torte (Montevertine), La Corte (Castello di Querceto), I Sodi di S. Niccolo (Castellare di Castellina), Cepparello (Isole e Olena), Sammarco (Castello dei Rampolla), Sangioveto (Badia a Coltibuono), Camartina (Querciabella), Concerto (Castello di Fonterutoli), Flaccianello della Pieve (Fontodi), Cabreo Il Borgo (Tenute Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari), La Gioia (Riecine), Nemo (Castello di Monsanto), Bruno di Rocca (Vecchie Terre di Montefili), Fontalloro (Felsina), Percarlo (San Giusto a Rentennano). It should be noted that another 2-3 wines which were initially produced before 1985 didn’t take part in the event for the reason that producers had no old vintages left. But even without them the selection was so rare that it is unlikely to be reproduced again. Twenty-thirty years ago not many people in Tuscany, even among leading estates, cared to have big archives of all produced vintages. Production of first Supertuscan wines was also limited. That’s why 20-30-year old bottles are quite rare. The first part of the tasting featured 17 wines from 1981-1989 vintages, one wine for each producer.

Historic tasting was unique not only because rare bottles of old vintages were gathered. It clearly proved that Supertuscan wines are worthy representatives of winemaking Italy. They successfully stood the test of time, and some of them have a right to be listed among the world’s greatest wines. Some wines made of pure Sangiovese were a revelation — Fontalloro 1986, Percarlo 1985, La Corte 1985, Cepparello 1988 and Le Pergole Torte 1981. They leave no arguments for those who are doubtful about the greatness of the grape on Chianti Classico terroirs. Yes, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah can be successfully grown there too, but none of the ‘foreign’ varieties can be compared to Sangiovese in expressing the idea of an intrinsic link between the grape and the place. These wines also confirmed that terroir influences the character of wines, otherwise how else, after all this time, to explain an aristocratic elegance and fine depth of Fontalloro, natural concentration and power of Percarlo, firm structure and great stamina of La Corte or fine grace of Le Pergole Torte?

The historic perspective showed earlier winemaking ideals and stylistic approaches of various estates. Tignanello 1986 (85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc) is still full of life and is an obvious example of an ambitious wine targeting an international audience. Camartina 1981 (70% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon) reflects a winemaker’s idea of a refined wine of impeccable balance. Vigorello 1986 (80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon) after 20 years of life demonstrates excellent freshness, superbly preserved fruit which dominate in aromas and flavours and a well integrated tannic structure. Concerto 1988, with the same proportions of grapes in the blend like Vigorello, shows fine character, with beautiful fruit, ripe grainy tannins and a wonderful length.

Time went by, and the estates were evolving. A deeper understanding of the territory’s potential came with years. Winegrowing and winemaking practices were improved, do was the quality. Some blends were slightly or profoundly altered. Stylistic and flavour profiles of many Supertuscans also changed. The horizontal tasting of 2001 vintage (except for Concerto whose production was discontinued in 1994) showed how far the quality was pushed for all wines during this time scale. Fontalloro, Percarlo, La Corte, Cepparello, Le Pergole Torte stayed loyal to their original styles which became more fine tuned. Flaccianello della Pieve and Sangioveto joined the ranks of outstanding Sangiovese wines. Tignanello also kepts its internationally ambitious character. Camartina and Vigorello cut the share of Sangiovese and increased the share of Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot was additionally introduced into Vigorello blend. It can be said that their modern sweet-fruity palate indulges the tastes of international consumers, but freshness and minerality make these wines very individual.

During the tasting estates’ representatives, winemakers and consultants discussed various aspects of the Supertuscan phenomenon and its contribution to the region’s and country’s winemaking history. President of Chianti Classico Consortium who was invited to moderate the discussion said that “revolution, commitment and passion” were the key words to describe the Supertuscan movement. It attracted attention to Tuscany, and Chianti Classico winemakers (also in other parts in Tuscany) re-discovered Sangiovese. Research programmes were launched in the region. Winemakers started to travel, especially to France which at that moment was the most advance winemaking country. Supertuscan wines open the era of competition between Sangiovese-made and other quality wines on the international arena. Winemakers studied behaviour of other varieties on the Tuscan soils. Finally, the quality movement made the government revise old production norms and renew them in the accordance with new realities.

The Supertiscan phenomenon has changed Tuscan history forever. Regional winemakers had to rethink their traditions and accept new conditions of work. Producers who were at the forefront of the Supertuscan movement remain loyal to their vineyards, their principles of work and their firm belief in the area’s great potential. They underwent a transformation from revolutionaries into classics, and their wines prove the rightness of their way.

Best wines of historic vintages
Fontalloro 1986 4,5 stars
Percarlo 1985 4,5 stars
Tignanello 1986 4,5 stars
Camartina 1981 4,5 stars
Vigorello 1986 4,5 stars
Concerto 1988 4,5 stars
La Corte 1985 4 stars
Cepparello 1988 4 stars
Cabreo Il Borgo 1989 4 stars

Best wines of 2001 vintage
Fontalloro 5 stars
Percarlo 5 stars
Flaccianello della Pieve 5 stars
Le Pergole Torte 5 stars
Sangioveto 5 stars
Cepparello 4,5 stars
Tignanello 4,5 stars
Vigorello 4,5 stars
La Corte 4,5 stars
Cabreo Il Borgo 4,5 stars