Reviews

By the name of rosé
«Cigar Clan» №3(39) June-July 2008

These wines are often not taken seriously.

Some say they should be drunk in season, others believe that they are produced specially for the better half of the mankind. But anyone who takes wine seriously will say that rose is a great accompaniment for any company or time of the year — if one knows what to choose.

Summer wines, wines for females, wines of one night — all these frivolous descriptions are given to rose. One has to blame the colour for this not-so-serious attitude. Who will voluntarily choose a pink wine to drink in male-only company or for a formal reception? But what about pleasing a lady or a romantic dinner? Then rose is almost always a winning option.

There is a secret tradition among the men who live in Champagne. If they dine with wives in a restaurant, they would usually choose white champagne. But if a girlfriend or a lover is invited, a bottle of rose champagne will be ordered for the table. Is there any hope left then that men and women will every treat rose wine with respect?

Paradoxical as it may be, but we find a positive answer again in Champagne. This renowned wine region generously offers the world the best rose wines whose finesse and splendid character are on par (and at times even better) with white analogues.

Rose champagne is not a cheap pleasure. It costs more than many white versions. Production of rose is more difficult and costly than production of classic white champagne.

Winemakers say that it is not easy to find good grapes for rose. Their prices are up to two times more compared to conventional champagne.

Historically the initial production stage of rose champagne was similar to the one used for still rose wines. After crushing black grapes, grape juice is left for some time in contact with skins which colour the must. Pinot Noir is used in Champagne. There is also a black grape called Pinot Meunier, but it is not used for rose champagne.

A different production method is also allowed for rose champagne. Before the secondary fermentation some red wine is added in a bottle with white wine. Mechanic blending of white and red wines is the only exception in European legislation that forbids making rose wines by direct assemblage.

Consumers don’t know (and don’t really need to know) this technical information. We are much more interested to learn which champagne brands offer the best reputation and quality. Laurent-Perrier and Billecart-Salmon were the first to promote an idea of prestige rose champagne, but consumers really accepted the category only with arrival of a rose wine from Veuve Clicquot.

The finest rose champagne includes Dom Perignon, Krug, Roederer Cristal, Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon, Laurent-Perrier Grand Siecle Cuvee Alexandra, Veuve Clicquot Grande Dame, Deutz Cuvee William Deutz and some others.

Best examples of rose champagne can be great gastronomic partners. Good structure and fuller body make them a good accompaniment even for meat dishes. Aged vintage rose will give happy moments of pleasure even to the most demanding wine lovers.

Interestingly, fashion for rose spread on other types of sparkling wines, from Cava to Prosecco. Codorniu was the first producer of rose Cava in Spain. The company pioneered production of Spanish sparkling wine following a classic champagne method. After non vintage Codorniu Pinot Noir, Codorniu Vintage Rose was born. It is made of the unusual duo of Monastrel and Pinot Noir. Winemakers also started experiments with colour in Veneto, an Italian region famous for its sparklers. Usually Prosecco is made from eponymous white grapes, but leading producers such as Nino Franco or Le Manzane, now produce rose versions by adding some red Merlot in the blend.

Still rose wines have never been more in demand than today. Rose are now second best selling wines in France after reds. They have overtaken the sales of whites. Interest towards rose has grown on influential British and American markets for several years. Today rose wines are made in all major winemaking countries — France, Spain, Italy, USA, Australia, Chile and others.

Rose is the only type of wine that can be produced deliberately or made as a secondary product of red wines production. Under traditional technology for rose wines, the colourless grape juice after crushing is macerated on black skins to receive required colour. The must is sometimes left in contact with skins overnight. That’s why winemaking jokingly call rose “the wine of one night”. Then skins are removed, the must starts fermenting — and the rose wine is made. Grapes can also be pressed without limitations for contact between juice and skins. As a result, juice has required colour straight after pressing and is left for immediate fermentation.

Technique known as ‘bleeding’ is part of red wine production process. Juice is initially macerated on skins. If a winemaker wants to get concentrated red wine, he may remove part of juice to make the remaining must more concentrated. The removed and already tinted juice is fermented separately and made into rose wine.

One or several grapes can be used for rose production. In the Loire Valley the best known wines are made with Cabernet Franc, in Bandol — with Mourvedre in combination with other varieties, in Abruzzo — with Montepulciano, in Rioja — with Tempranillo.

Rose wines are usually produced only with black skinned grapes, but a small part of white grapes may be added in some winemaking zones.

The range of shades for rose wines is wide, from lightly tinted golden-coppery to almost scarlet. Several years ago EU legislators declared eight types of rose wines by colour, including such curious definitions as gris de gris (grey from grey), oeil de perdrix (partridge eye) or vin de cafe (cafe wine). In practice producers prefer to call their wines simply rose, though the name oeil de perdrix is commonly associated with wines from the Swiss canton of Neuchatel.

The intensity of colour in rose wines is not always a reliable indicator of the wine’s character. It is especially true for champagne. Lightly tinted Cristal Rose has a firm, ‘muscular’ structure, a full body and intense flavours. The colour depends upon the length of contact between juice and skins, grape variety, aging and other factors. A darker shade may hint at a full-bodied wine, though this link is not always reliable.

Irrespective of the colour, freshness and drinkability are two main qualities of roses. Their flavours can be varied. Fruit dominate in some wines, while floral notes — in others. They can be complemented by spicy and mineral notes. Quality wines always have a structure based on a good acidity level and presence of some tannins (they form structure in red wines). One shouldn’t forget that quality roses are mostly dry and not sweet wines. This makes them universal gastronomic partners. They go well for an aperitif, for salads, for starters and main courses with fish, seafood, poultry, pork, veal, vegetables. They are always successful at picnics and barbeques. Wines should be chilled to 10-12 degrees before serving.

In France rose wines are produced in all major wine regions, but Provance leads the way. It accounts for almost a half of total French production and eight percent of the world’s rose. Refreshing, fruity Provance roses are ideally suited for Mediterranean atmosphere — with its warm climate, wonderful beaches and generous cuisine. Due to unending tourist streams, wines are often made just to satisfy their undemanding taste, though they are drunk with great pleasure in situ. Bandol is considered the most famous production zone in Provance. Here spicy Mourvedre gives lively, powerful wines with open strawberry flavours. Domaines Ott which earned an international reputation of a producer of superb rose wines works in Bandol.

Tavel is the unofficial capital of French rose wines. It is a small village in the southern part of the Rhone Valley. Tavel specializes only in rose. Wines are made of nine permitted varieties. Red Grenache is the most popular choice, to which some white grapes can be added during pressing. The must stays in contact with skins for two days. The result is a full bodied wine that can develop its bouquet for several years. These are classic wines of the French rose winemaking.

Many roses are made in the Loire Valley, notably in Anjou. Rose d’Anjou — is a straightforward, sweetish wine based on local red Grollot that can be blended with another five permitted varieties. Cabernet d’Anjou wine is pink and off-dry, with attractive raspberry aromas and flavours. They are made with Cabernet Franc or Cabernet Sauvignon.

In Bordeaux rose is often made as a secondary product of red wine production. Bordeaux wines have intense colour, aromas and flavours of red berries. They are served as an aperitif.

Italian rosato is not known as well as French or Spanish analogues, but they can be found in all parts of the Apennine peninsula, and their production is booming. Local varieties are usually used. Important production centres are Alto Adige and vineyards around Garda Lake in the north of the country, Puglia, Abruzzo, Tuscany and Campania in the centre and the south. A new category of rose wines known as ramato (copper coloured) is gaining in popularity. It is made from Pinot Grigio in the north-east. The grapes have pinkish-reddish colour, and after maceration it colours the must into light copper shade.

In Spain rosado is the favourite drink of summer. It is popular in big cities and on the Mediterranean resorts alike. Best Spanish rose is made from Garnacha. It is also produced from Tempranillo and almost every local red grape variety from all parts of the country. Some producers age rose in oak barrels to give them supple, creamy flavours, but such wines often lose freshness and vivacity. Rose wines are mainly produced in Catalonia, Navarra and Rioja.

Rose wines are getting widely spread in the New World countries. Some thirty years ago a new category of blush wines was invented in California. They were semisweet, lightly coloured Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Today American consumers prefer dry rose. It is produced in California, also in Oregon, New York and other states from Syrah, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and other grapes.

Australian winemakers are also talking about the Renaissance of dry rose, both still and sparkling. A well known producer Jabob’s Creek who five years ago had no rose in the range, now makes four including sparkling. Similar trend is seen in Chile and Argentina, though New World wine may be heavy due to higher alcohol and lower acidity.

New fashion for fresh, light wines influences consumer choice. People abandon concentrated reds and oaky whites in favour of crisp, refreshing roses. Dry styles of the wine are gradually strengthening its reputation of a serious drink. Its ability to work well with dishes is another argument for the choice of the wine.

All in all, forget the stereotypes and drink rose! This is the motto of current and future wine seasons.