Reviews

Château La Mission Haut-Brion and its guardian prince
«Enoteka» №9(66) 2008

Prince Robert of Luxembourg found a wonderful occasion to hold an exceptional Château La Mission Haut-Brion tasting.

In honour of the 25 years’ ownership of the estate by the Dillon family, he invited thirty highly respected tasters to London where they were given an opportunity to enjoy over 50 vintages of the famous Bordeaux wine.

Domaine Clarence Dillon, which — along with La Mission — keeps in possession three other respectable chateaux in Graves, including renowned Haut-Brion, has never before put together such a comprehensive tasting. Prince Robert called it “a historic event for the family”. Château La Mission Haut-Brion was honoured with a high recognition by right. In the expert circles the estate has long been viewed as an equal contender of Bordeaux Premiers Crus. Its outstanding terroir has been reflected through a particular quality of wine throughout several centuries.

Compared to other Bordeaux colossi, La Mission is relatively small in size. The vineyards are planted on just over 26 hectares where gravel soils with clay and sandy subsoils largely contribute to the wine’s personality. It differs from that of Haut-Brion, although vineyards lie literally across the road. La Mission Haut-Brion is all about power, concentration, firm, but not aggressive tannic structure and signature flavours of tobacco and spices, backed by sweet, ripe black fruit. Three Bordeaux varieties are under cultivation — Cabernet Sauvignon (47%), Merlot (42,7%) and Cabernet Franc (10,3%), and they are all used in wine production. The chateau has been known for laudable quality even in lesser vintages.

The estate’s history dates back to early 16th century. Though Prince Robert believes that his family’s mission is simply to be wardens of the place, he is especially proud of great reorganisations which happened since the Dillons took over the estate in 1983. Vineyards were given due care, a new chais was built and a bottling facility installed. Most importantly, high quality became consistent. At present between 5,000 to 7,000 cases of Château La Mission Haut-Brion are produced annually.

The London tasting was held in The Square restaurant and was divided into 2 parts. At first the guests, chosen from the most authoritative British, European and American wine critics, tasted 42 vintages in a usual format. Then 4 outstanding vintages of white Château Laville Haut-Brion and 9 — of red Château La Mission Haut-Brion were served with lunch. Prince Robert of Luxembourg, managing director Jean-Philippe Delmas and cellar master Jean-Philippe Masclef were present from the side of Domaine Clarence Dillon.

My evaluation of wines is given in accordance with the classic European 20-point scale — 19 -20 points for great wines; 17-18,5 — for outstanding ones; 14,5-16,5 — for good wine with some outstanding features; 12,5-14 — for good wine without outstanding features. The wines are listed in the order of serving. As Jean-Philippe Delmas noted, the vintages were grouped in 7 flights by quality of vintage inside a limited time period, usually a decade. Short comments on vintages and harvests are provided by the chateau.

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2005
Excellent vintage, average harvest
Intense dark ruby colour. Extraordinary rich, deep, concentrated, well focused aromas of ripe, sweet dark cherry and plum. Silky texture, freshness, impeccable balance, finely grained tannins. Impresses with a great power. Finish is on exotic bright spice with an enveloping wooden sensation. Striking length. One of the greatest millesimes for La Mission Haut-Brion (19 points).

2004
Very good vintage, abundant harvest
Dark ruby colour, just slightly lighter on the rim. Rather difficult to tasted after phenomenal 2005, but the wine has plenty of own merits. Sweet aromas of vanilla, dark fruit and nuances of expensive red wood. Palate is fresh, leaner than previous, with grooved texture. At present woody flavours dominate, also bright ground black pepper. Medium length (17 points).

2001
Very good vintage, abundant harvest
Brilliant, limpid ruby colour. A fine veil of aromas, predominantly built on cherry and plum. There is more concentration in this wine than previous. Velvety texture, pleasant intense fruit with smoky nuances. Finishes with a good length (17,5 points).

1998
Very good vintage, abundant harvest
Ruby colour. Fine, fresh, cedary aromas. Fresh, silky palate, with impeccable balance. Medium concentration, flavours of plum and cedar. Lovely to drink. Finish is rich, full, fruity, with amazing length (18-18,5 points).

1995
Very good vintage, abundant harvest
Limpid ruby-garnet colour. Powerful aromatic flow of fresh cedar, minty nuances. Flavours of tobacco and plum on the palate. Tannic are prominent, they dominate over juicy fruit and give a drying sensation. Finish is spicy, expressive and persistent. Wine with a big character (17,5 points).

1990
Exceptional vintage, very abundant harvest
Brilliant, intense garnet colour. Some volatility, aromas of sous-bois. Palate is fresh, balanced, open, with an intrinsic Bordeaux character. Complex flavour palette consists of fruit, tobacco and spice. Powerful aftertaste (18,5 points).

2003
Very good vintage, average harvest
Opaque ruby colour. Bursting with fruit, especially plums and cherries. They are really sweet, but freshness, not jammy. Palate is surprisingly fresh (especially taking into account such a hot vintage), with a good, appealing balance of elements. Enveloping tannins are not completely integrated. Drying woody notes there which are also detected in a long, chocolaty finish, with a touch of exotic spices (16,5-17 points).

2002
Good vintage, average harvest
Dark cherry colour. Calm, restrained aromas of plum, undergrowth, cedar. Palate with freshness, built on plumy, cedary and vegetal notes. Soft tannins, enveloping in the finish. Rather persistent finish. A successful wine for a difficult vintage (16,5-17 points).

1999
Very good vintage, abundant harvest
Dark cherry colour. Nose exudes freshness, notes of wooden bark and oriental spices. Medium palate, easy to drink, dark fruit and spices, but wine is not complex enough. Full finish, with notes of tobacco and ripe fruit (16,5 points).

1996
Very good vintage, abundant harvest
Aristocratic, focused, scented aromas of cedar and bell pepper. Palate is fresh, lively, dried fruit and tobacco are almost dancing. This interplay of aromas continues in persistent, framed aftertaste (17,5 points).

1994
Good vintage, abundant harvest
Garnet colour. Light aromas of cedar and bell pepper, overall nose is quite weak. Initial silky touch is changed to velvety texture. Quite strong plum and tobacco, also spices. Tannic structure is still hard, but should soften with further aging. Full, medium lenghth finish (16-16,5 points).

1991
Quite good vintage, very small harvest
Evolved garnet-terracotta colour. Really attractive, integrated nose of sweet tobacco, light spices and dried fruit. Palate is closer to Burgundy style — tobacco, tea and dried fruit. Firm tannins. Finish is sweet, warm and persistent, with tobacco notes. Attractive, if unusual (17 points).

1993
Quite good vintage, very abundant harvest
Opaque ruby colour. Expressive aromas of plum, tobacco and sweet tea, warm alcohol vapours coming off. Palate is very fresh, high acidity, pleasant flavours of chocolate and spices. Good concentration, but tannins unpolished. Lengthy, chocolaty finish in which alcohol warmth is also felt (15,5 points).

1992
Medium vintage, very abundant harvest
Limpid garnet colour. Aromas are not very intense, with notes of sous-bois, plum and cedar. Dried prunes and chocolate flavours. Wine is too tannic, it lacks fruit concentration. Enveloping tannins in the finish, which is of good length (14,5-15 points).

1987
Quite good vintage, average harvest
Garnet-brown colour. Nose is quite savoury, also autumn leaves. Palate is well integrated, lifted, silky tannins, again “autumnal” flavours. A very good length (17 points).

1984
Average vintage, average harvest
Garnet colour. Hard to detect aromas, diluted tobacco. High acidity, quite aggressive attack of flavours, chunky tannins, notes of tobacco, dried cherries and spices. There is a certain tone of kirsch and chocolate in the finish (15 points).

1981
Good vintage, average harvest
Rather intense garnet colour with red rim, one of the least evolved in the flight. Aromas appear from low registers, they are quite rich, meaty with a curious medicinal, eucalyptus notes. Palate is fresh, also less evolved than neighbours. Typical tobacco notes, also rich fruity nuances and good quality of tannins. Finish is powerful, persistent, leaving a very good impression (17,5 points).

1980
Quite good vintage, average harvest
Medium intensity aromas — red fruit, tobacco. Palate with notes of tobacco, fruit and earth. Unpolished tannins. Aftertaste doesn’t last long (16 points).

1988
Very good vintage, very abundant harvest
Deep garnet colour, little evolution. Intense aromas of dark cherry, tobacco. Excellent freshness, silky texture, rich fruity-chocolaty flavours, excellent concentration, ripe tannins. Persistent finish with notes of cherry and chocolate (18 points).

1986
Very good vintage, very abundant harvest
Garnet-brown colour. Gamebird like aromas. Medium intensity flavours, restrained, dried fruit, tobacco and soft spice. Chocolaty finish of good length confirms a hot vintage. Slightly drying finish (17 points).

1985
Very good vintage, abundant harvest
Garnet colour. Very appealing, scented aromas of ripe and even overripe strawberries, cherries and flowers. Balanced, lifted palate continues the aromatic line, also gives great pleasure. The wine didn’t evolve much. Full, staying finish (18+ points).

1983
Very good vintage, abundant harvest
Light terracotta colour, evidently evolved. Aromas not too intense, but elegant — plum, tobacco. Palate is austere, fresh, dried fruit, prominent tannins. Medium length finish (17 points).

1979
Good vintage, very abundant harvest
Fine earthy aromas with medicinal notes. Palate is also earthy. Massive, enveloping tannins. Past its peak (15 points).

1978
Very good vintage, abundant harvest
Linear aromas of cedar and dried fruit. Palate is balanced, very even and appealing, silky texture, chocolaty flavours. A long finish (17,5 points).

1977
Medium vintage, small harvest
Garnet-brown colour. Sweetness from evolved aromas — dried fruit and meat stock. Nose is integrated, of medium intensity. Palate exactly continues the aromatic line — it is supple, silky, and sweet, with notes of dried strawberries and liquorice. Easy to drink (15+ points).

1974
Medium vintage, abundant harvest
Garnet colour. Fine tobacco aromas, fresh and lifted. Palate with soft flavours of red and black fruit, tobacco, “long” tannins. Persistent, chocolaty finish (16 points).

1973
Medium vintage, very abundant harvest
Limpid garnet colour with terracotta hue. Light aromas of fruit, earth, tobacco. Tannins are still firm, nuances of dried fruit and tobacco. Reasonable length (15,5 points).

1972
Medium vintage, average harvest
Red-garnet colour. Aromas of medium intensity, nuances of wooden bark. High acidity, harsh tannins, tobacco notes. No complexity, wine moving towards the end of its life (14 points).

1969
Medium vintage, small harvest
Faded, diluted, simple aromas and flavours, although tannins are still felt. Wine has almost died down (13 points).

1968
Mediocre vintage, average harvest
Light aromas of sweet tea and faded rose. High acidity, some tannins, notes of dried fruit, especially dried apricots, and faded rose petals. Wine in the final stages of life (13,5 points).

1971
Very good vintage, small harvest
Dark garnet colour. Well defined, scented aromas of tea, faded rose, dried apricots and tobacco. Palate is light, sweet with nuances of dried fruit and tobacco. Past its peak (15 points).

1967
Quite good vintage, average harvest
Limpid garnet colour. Aromas of cedar, eucalyptus, dried fruit, tobacco. Palate of medium intensity, well integrated, notes of chocolate and spices. Enveloping finish, persistent and spicy (16 points).

1965
Mediocre vintage, abundant harvest
Diluted, flat medicinal aromas. Same on the palate — distinctive medicinal tone, as if the wine is made of sweet pills. Wine has practically died down (13 points).

1963
Mediocre vintage, abundant harvest
Medium intensity aromas, with nuances of wood bark and tobacco. Tannins have melted down, earthy, tobacco flavours (14 points).

1962
Very good vintage, abundant harvest
Light red-garnet colour. Lifted aromas of cured meats, “cellar spirit”. Palate is dominated by earthy flavours, medium concentration, tannins still drying. Rather lengthy finish (13,5 points).

1960
Medium vintage, average harvest
Deep garnet colour. Pleasant notes of wood and roses. Juicy flavours of sweet cherries and spices, there is a tannic base, but acidity is sharp. Good length in finish (14,5 points).

1970
Very good vintage, very abundant harvest
Even garnet colour. Aromas of medium intensity, volatile and iodine notes. Palate has high acidity, yet burns from alcohol, jammy note. Tannins appear in the aftertaste (14 points).

1966
Very good vintage, average harvest
Lighter hue than in previous. Cedary and light smoky aromas. Palate is not quite clean, notes of cedar, earth, black currants. Rather persistent finish (14,5-15 points).

1964
Very good vintage, abundant harvest
Limpid dark garnet colour. Focused iodine aromas. Palate is fresh, well balanced, flavours of chocolate and tobacco. Attractive velvety tannins. Nice, persistent, chocolaty finish (16 points).

1958
Medium vintage, half harvest
Dark brown core and lighter rim. Focused aromas of eucalyptus and ground pepper. Palate is fresh, black currants, chocolate, some tobacco. Good weight. Enveloping tannins. Lasting chocolaty finish (16 points).

1957
Medium vintage, not abundant harvest
Black core and wide dark brown rim. Aromas not quite clean, with nuances of graphite. Good concentration and weight of palate, dark fruit and some rubbery notes. Persistent finish. A big wine (15,5 points)

1953
Very good vintage, average harvest
Very fine, restrained aromas, with volatile notes. Palate is quite particular — spicy, warm, but tannins are harsh. Lasting, full, elegant finish (16 points).

Château Laville Haut-Brion 2005
Excellent vintage, average harvest
Brilliant straw colour. Dominating lemony flavour, but quite sweet thanks to a soft vanilla tone. Nice length. A very attractive wine (16,5 points).

Château Laville Haut-Brion 1985
Very good vintage, abundant harvest
Light lemon-straw colour with green reflets. Refined veil of complex aromas, including beeswax. Wonderful depth. Palate is harmonious, intense, with white and yellow fruit, spice and wax. Great impact in the finish. Beautiful wine, defying its actual age (17,5 points).

Château Laville Haut-Brion 1975
Very good vintage, average harvest
Brilliant, intense golden colour. Expressive aromas of apricots, butter, marzipan. Very bright, structured, creamy, persistent flavours. So rich, almost like dry Sauternes. A very good length. Wine provides a very fresh background when combined with the dish (17 points).

Château Laville Haut-Brion 1966
Very good vintage, average harvest
Beatiful colour of matted gold with a light green hue. Superb, integrated bouquet with notes of butter, gooseberries, minerals. Not as fatty as previous, but a very supple texture. Lasting finish. Has a lot in common with an aged Burgundy. Still feels young, doesn’t show age. Ideally pairs with food (18 points).

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1975
Very good vintage, average harvest
Dark garnet colour. Minty freshness, rich, intense aromas of cherry and plum, smoky notes. Harmonious, fresh wine, much younger than factual age. Grainy tannins, amazing quality of woody notes, discreet concentration. New oak, toast and chocolate in a long finish (17,5 points)

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1961
Exceptional vintage, very small harvest
Garnet colour. Elegant, soft, fresh aromas with nuances of eucalyptus and iodine. Palate of tobacco, spices and cherries, it is balanced and supple. Grainy tannins. Sweet, lasting aftertaste, with chocolate and toast (18 points).

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1959
Exceptional vintage, half harvest
Deep, dark garnet colour. Intense aromas of tar and iodine. Flavours are even more concentrated, powerful and rich — dark fruit, tobacco, tar and iodine. Finish is powerful and long lasting. Stunning wine (19 points).

Breast of pigeon with creamed cabbage, croustillant of foie gras and Madeira

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1955
Very good vintage, average harvest
Intense garnet colour. Scented aromas of tobacco, slightly warm from alcohol, then open up with nuances of ripe cherry and tar. Palate is full, spicy, tannic. Finish has ample volume, it is sweet and smoky (17,5 points).

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1945
Exceptional vintage, half harvest
Limpid garnet colour. Sweet tea and tobacco aromas. Palate is expressive, spicy, concentrated, fresh. Powerful tannic structure. Finishes with great impact. Outstanding wine (19 points).

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1929
Exceptional vintage, average harvest
Black core and dark chocolate rim. Refined, elegant bouquet, nuances of tar. Palate is refined, but concentrated, mostly chocolaty flavours, soft velvety texture. Tobacco nuances are detected in sweet, lasting finish. Extraordinary wine (19,5-20 points).

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1982
Exceptional vintage, very abundant harvest
Brilliant ruby colour. Aromas of tar and smoke. Excellent balance. Palate is concentrated, monumental, with expressive chocolate tone and notes of spices and tobacco. Hasn’t yet reached its peak of evolution (18,5 points).

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1989
Exceptional vintage, abundant harvest
Colour more evolved than in 1982, garnet rim. Refined, elegant aromas with tobacco nuances. Palate continues in the same style — flavours are graceful, feminine, refined. A wonderful length (17,5 points).

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2000
Excellent vintage, abundant harvest
Bright ruby colour. Fresh, pure, dancing aromas of freshly crushed dark fruit, especially cherries. Palate is intense, fruity and spicy, with soft velvet of tannins. Persistent finish (18,5 points).