Reviews

Rioja against crisis
«Vinnaya Karta» №2(103) March 2009

During economic crises such as the current one, consumers are especially careful about how they spend money.

Wines with the best quality and price ratios get more attention. The Regulating Council of Rioja wines reacted to the global economic slowdown with an event organised in the spirit of the time.

The tasting took place in Madrid during leading gastronomic forum Madrid Fusion. The name was suitably chosen as Las Compras Inteligentes, or Smart Buys. As the president of the Regulating Council Victor Pasqual noted, smart buys used to mean cheap and cheerful. Now Rioja can offer many wines, including in prestigious reserva and gran reserva categories, where one doesn’t need to overpay for quality. Examples of such wines were presented at the Madrid event.

Generally speaking, Rioja continues to hold a leading position among Spanish regions of quality winemaking. In 2007, 271,6 mln. litres of Riojan wine with a Regulating Council seal of approval were sold. The area is strongly associated with red wines which account for 90% of production. Whites and roses have, accordingly, 6% and 4% shares. Riojan wines are well known on the international markets, with around a third of total production exported.

The advantage of Rioja is that it built a successful, well recognised image for its wines. Both domestic and foreign consumers associate Spanish wine firstly with wine made in Rioja. The Regulating Council recently took another step to strengthen the regional brand. Starting from October 2008 new back labels are used where the logo and the name Rioja are printed in bigger type than the rest of the text, and catch the eye at once. Another strong point of the Riojan winemaking is that it never stops evolving, yet this development happens without losing traditional values. “Our strategy is to keep traditions, but also to innovate”, confirms Victor Paqual. Diversity of styles underpinned by high quality helps Rioja remain one of the world’s leading wine centres.

For a consumer Riojan wines are attractive through their reasonable pricing. Naturally, like everywhere else, there are exceptions, but in a general comparison between wines in Tuscany and Rioja of similar quality one has to pay more for a Tuscan wine. Madrid tasting focused on affordable quality, with retail prices for chosen wines not exceeding 20 euros in Spain.

While reds remain signature wines of Rioja, now good quality white wines can also be found. Viura is an exciting local variety which in the hands of famous winemaker Alvaro Palacios becomes a full-bodied, harmonious Bodegas Palacios Remondo Placet. It is aged in large French oak vats for 9 months. The result is a Burgundy style wine, with flavours of white fruit, almonds and spices. Placet is sold in Russia, it costs 760 roubles in the importer’s pricelist. Another memorable white wine was Sierra Cantabria Organza 2007 — a blend of Viura, Garnacha Blanca and Malvasia. Organza has a medium level of alcohol at 12,5%. Its well-balanced, sweet-citrusy character almost doesn’t reveal 14 months of aging in French barriques. Thirteen euros for this wine is a smart buy indeed.

In the crianza category (aging for 2 years, one year is in oak barrels) three red wines stood out during the tasting. Picea 650 2005 is made in Vinedos del Ternero, in Rioja Alta zone. The estate was founded in 2003 and deliberately limits production at 200,000 bottles. Picea 650 (16 euros) is highly individual — with perfumed aromas of flowers, fruit and spices, and with a good “sense of place”. The wine spends 4 months more in oak than the average norm. Senorio de Cuzcurrita 2005 (18 euros) from Castillo de Cuzcurrita leaves an impression of a fresh, elegant, silky wine with pure, ripe fruit. The estate’s vineyards are among the highest in Rioja. A lady enologist Ana Martin is responsible for winemaking. Pujanza 2006 (16 euros) from Bodegas y Vinedos Pujanza is already known in Russia thanks to its modern, polished style which yet retains the essence of Tempranillo grape.

In the reserva category (aging for 3 years, minimum one year is in oak barrels) words of respect should be said about Marques de Murrieta. This historic estate has been making true classic wines of Rioja. Production volume is not that small at 900,000 bottles, but the winery has kept a superb quality level, while the price to consumers remains affordable (16 euros). Marques de Murrieta Ygay Reserva 2004 impresses as a wine of intense, yet fresh, elegant and complex character, still at early evolutionary stage. Another excellent bottle Valenciso Reserva 2004 (20 euros) by Compania Bodeguera de Valenciso. It is made by respected Riojan winemakers Luis Valentin and Carmen Enciso. Only 5 hectares of vineyards are used. Focused floral aromas with a particular honeyed nuance, fresh, integrated, refined palate of fresh ripe fruit and flowers supported by discreet tannic structure — that is a short description of a graceful, full of individuality Valenciso Reserva 2004.

As the tasting showed, a crisis is not an excuse to abandon one’s wine habits. If a wine is purchased smartly, the money will guarantee an excellent quality level that at times may even exceed expectations.