Reviews

White wines
«Vitrina» April 2009

Last year sales of white wine in France slipped to the third place, giving way to red and rose.

Can this mean that their international popularity will also go down?

Greater demand for red and rose wines is the latest trend on the international markets. Yet no one, even most pessimistic commentators, would dare say that the white category is doomed. Despite regular criticism, Chardonnay is still among the top three most popular grape varieties, and sparkling wines have recently set numerous new sales records. Other classic white propositions such as Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling are also strengthening their positions. Plus there is new interest towards original wines from indigenous grapes such as French Viognier, Italian Verdicchio and Austrian Gruner Veltliner. The range of white styles is very wide, and they are more universal than reds. Let’s have a closer look.

Ubiquitous, mass-grown, international are some of descriptors used for Chardonnay. There is hardly a winemaking country where the grape isn’t cultivated. Yet this phenomenon is fairly recent. Thirty years ago Chardonnay was to a great extent limited to its historic homeland, Burgundy. New fashion for varietal wines, with the name of a grape on a label, was introduced in the English speaking countries in the 1980s. It peaked in the end of the eighties when Chardonnay became almost synonymous with white wine. Since then demand slightly cooled, but even today Chardonnay remains the most common white wine among consumers.

Universal acknowledgement of Chardonnay was made possible for two reasons. Firstly, the grape is undemanding in cultivation. It has stable yields in various natural and climatic conditions, from cool Champagne to warm South Australia. It is easily transformed into many wine styles. Chardonnay can adapt equally well to steel tanks and oak barrels. Depending on vinification, it produces refreshing and citrusy or full-bodied vanilla-and-cream wines. Ten to twenty years ago consumers preferred intensely flavoured vanilla Chardonnay which is made by aging in oak barrels. Nowadays demand reversed to lighter, easy to drink styles.

The main advantage of Chardonnay for consumers is its foolproof compatibility with different people and situations. Wines come to aid when a pleasant undemanding aperitif is needed at home or in the company of friends. They are also appreciated by wine connoisseurs or people looking for the confirmation of a certain status. For this reason Chardonnay sales remain stable both in mass retail and in specialised wine boutiques.

Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Semillon are other important white varieties along with Chardonnay.

Sauvignon Blanc is the second most popular white grape. Like Chardonnay, it has French origin, but France no longer has exclusive rights for it. It is now planted in all corners, from New Zealand to Chile. Sauvignon Blanc easily adapts to various conditions of climate and environment which makes it successful in different winegrowing areas. Wines are known for expressive aromas of herbs and green vegetables, giving it a distinct profile. Classic styles are made in the Loire Valley and in Bordeaux where Sauvignon is blended with Semillon. Consumers also love bold Sauvignon styles from New Zealand, Chile and South Africa.

Wine experts call German Riesling a great white grape, but an average consumer still associates it with unpretentious sweetish Liebfraumilch. According to the Wine Intelligence research in Moscow and St Petersburg in autumn 2008, Russian consumers of imported wine knew best the Langhoff Liebfraumilch brand. Yet, quality Riesling wines are made in a very wide range of styles and are appreciated for their longetivity and compatibility with food.

Dessert wines, especially Sauternes from Bordeaux, are Semillon’s trump card. As these wines are labour intensive, they will never be a mass product. Australia produces a significant volume of full-bodied, rich dry wines, but they are not very successful on export markets. Semillon is also often blended with Sauvignon Blanc to make Bordeaux whites.

Modern consumers are demanding in their choices and want variety, including in wines. This century’s new trend shows interest to original grapes, peculiar to certain wine countries or regions. An amazing international success of Italian Pinot Grigio is one of such examples. Its fruity wines are pleasant and light, having become a good alternative to Chardonnay. Italy also successfully exports Soave, which is based on Garganega and Trebbiano, as well as Verdicchio wines from Marche.

There are two special white grapes in Spain, Verdejo and Albarino, which are gradually being accepted by international consumers. The former is from Castilla where Spanish winemakers produce value-oriented wines of good purity and fruitiness. The latter comes from Galicia and is known for quality wines with aromas of fruit and flowers and fresh, creamy flavours.

Austrian Gruner Veltliner is arguably the brightest star among newly discovered indigenous grapes. Although it has a tiny niche on the international market, its success was possible thanks to top class wines which attract much interest from wine experts, connoisseurs and lovers. Wines feature aromas and flavours of white fruit, minerals and peppery spice. They are positioned in mid and high price categories.

Sparkling wines are usually treated separately, but a great majority of them are white, so we will briefly talk about them as well.

Champagne is the locomotive of the category, despite current difficulties caused by world crisis. It is an image product, a luxury good, and will always have demand as such. Besides Champagne, France is known for traditional method Cremants. The Loire Valley has the largest production, followed by Burgundy and Alsace.

Italy uses greater variety of grapes for sparkling wines than any other country. Famous Asti Spumante is an aromatic semisweet Muscat wine from Piedmont, fermented in large tanks, rather than bottles like in Champagne. Only Prosecco made from the eponymous grape in the north-east, can provide competition to Asti Spumante. Trentino and Franciacorta are two major areas of producing traditional method bubblies.

Cava is Spain’s signature sparkler. The name can be used only for wine which was made with the second fermentation in bottle. Cava production is not limited to a specific wine region, but 95% comes from Penedes. Unlike the French cousin, Cava is usually made with local Spanish grapes, and production process is slightly simplified.

In Germany any wine with bubbles is called sekt. About 95% is made in a light, simple style, with secondary fermentation in big tanks.

Many New World sparklers are produced in wineries which are owned by Champagne houses. California, Australia and South Africa can boast good results.