Reviews

Amarone-2005: reason for joy or worry?
«Vinnaya Karta» №3(104) May 2009

Wine production in Valpolicella is not affected by current crisis — at least that is what producers were saying at the latest Amarone in Anteprima tasting.

The annual event takes place in Verona, it showcases Amarone wines which are about to be released on the market.

The room where press conference on 2005 wines was held was full to the brim. The number of accredited Italian and foreign journalists broke records. It was not surprising, though. Along with Barolo and Brunello, Amarone is among three greatest Italian wines, and its phenomenal commercial success in the past years has attracted even more interest. It is worth remembering that Amarone is the only wine among the three that is produced by using partially dried grapes. When statistics is compiled, the consortium doesn’t break down figures separately for dry Amarone and sweet Recioto which is also made with raisined grapes. Production of the latter, though, seldom exceeds one tenth of that for the Amarone. In terms of production and sales volume, Amarone has already taken over Brunello and swiftly closing the gap with Barolo. Total sales of Amarone/Recioto in 2008 stood at 8,57 mln. bottles (mainly of 2004 vintage), or 60% more than just three years ago. For comparison, average production of Brunello di Montalcino is 6,5 mln. bottles, and 10,25 mln. bottles of Barolo were made in 2004. In the meanwhile, wine rush continues in Valpolicella. Last year drying stores saw twice as many grapes as in 2005. It means that the number of bottles released in 2012 should also double as compared to the current year.

Will the global markets be able to absorb all these wines which are already maturing in producers’ cellars and are awaiting their release? Unfortunately, the consortium didn’t present information on key markets and shares by country in general Amarone sales structure. It can be assumed that outside Italy the wine is popular in US and Europe, but it would be worth knowing which countries move the largest volumes and whether they will be able to sustain the same level in the near future.

In the past year producers considerably expanded vineyard area. This is a big long term investment that they will need to return. If one adds new extensions to wineries and modernization of production facilities and cellars, it becomes clear that producers are very vulnerable to any negative movements in the market. At present sales continue to grow, but no one can foresee what the situation will be like this year, let alone 3-5 years’ time. I don’t want to sound pessimistic, but an explosive growth is always followed by market correction. One hopes that wine producers will be ready for it.

Luca Sartori, new consortium president, stated at the press conference, “Producers understand that greater volumes of Amarone will get on the market next year. We have to accept a new challenge which is now moving towards wine marketing and promotion”. The consortium promises to be more active in export markets. Let’s see to that.

Another serious question is how an extended production area influences quality of wines. At present Valpolicella has 6,000 hectares under vine, but vineyards between different categories of wine (Valpolicella and Amarone) are not differentiated. In Montalcino, for instance, there is a strict division between vineyards for Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino production. According to production code, a winery can use up to 70% of its vineyards for Amarone/Recioto. So theoretically any producer in any given year can cut Valpolicella production to an agreed minimum, and produce Amarone which sells for 3-5 times more. I couldn’t get figures for Valpolicella production and sales, but winemakers say that Amarone production is indeed growing at the expense of Valpolicella. Last year the consortium president Emilio Pedron said that his association aims to have equal shares between three main types of dry wines (Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso and Amarone), but even this volume for Amarone seems high. Leading estate Allegrini that built its reputation on top quality Amarone, has only 10% share of Amarone among total wine production.

Location of vineyards is another thorny issue. The question is not so much about opposing historic production zone Valpolicella Classica to the rest of the denominated area, but more about where vines are planted. Riccardo Tedeschi from reputed Tedeschi estate saw into the heart of the problem by saying, “I don’t mind where vineyards are located — whether in the classical area or outside it. Plains and hills determine the greatest difference in quality”. So far I haven’t met a winemaker in Valpolicella who would talk about outstanding Amarone from flat vineyards. It is understood that grape growing is less labour intensive in the plains, but the quality is inferior to that from hilly areas. Yet, only 54% grow on slopes, another 22% are located in the foothills, and 24% are on the plains.

How much should a bottle of quality Amarone cost? In Italy one can find bottles with a 15 euro price tag, but good Amarone mostly sells in 30 (‘classic’) to 60 euros (from selected harvest or single vineyard) range. These prices are on par with Barolo and Brunello. Though they may seem high and at times it is indeed so, one should remember that Amarone production is more expensive than that of any other dry wine, because of an additional process of drying grapes. As Riccardo Tedeschi says, export prices for quality wines cannot be below 15 euros.

What to expect from Amarone 2005? Looking at the chart with key technical parameters which is compiled by the consortium since 1995, 2005 vintage is similar to 2004 (classical Amarone vintage). Consolidated temperature index during the vegetative season, total precipitation and rain in September are practically identical for both years. Yet, if weather conditions in 2004 were easy throughout the year, the weather in 2005 was capricious. Consortium’s technical director Nicola Bottura even called it anomalous. Winter was almost dry. Yields were 20-30% down because of uneven bud break and cold weather during flowering. July and August saw a double amount of precipitation. Rain wasn’t welcome before grape picking, as well as during the picking time in the first week of October. Yet, average temperature is within the norm, and good care of the vineyards allowed quality-oriented estates to achieve nice results. Importantly, grapes were fully ripe, and it was picked only in dry days. As for vinification, dried grapes had higher sugar levels and lower pH. Fermentations were easy. Wines have intense colour, aromas of fruit and spice, especially of plum, cherry, cinnamon and ginger, and balance. General quality is assessed as good. Perhaps wines are less homogenous than in 2004, but some winemakers consider 2005 more successful.

Which wines deserve a special mention? After tasting 64 samples at Аmarone in Anteprima 2005 tasting, I am ready to recommend the following. In the classical Amarone della Valpolicella group — wines by Nicolis, F.lli Farina, Monte Zovo, Giuseppe Campagnola, Musella, Ca’Rugate, Villa Monteleone. Among prestigious Amarone made from selected harvest or single vineyards — Ca’ La Bionda “Vigneti di Ravazzol”, Tedeschi “Capitel Monte Olmi”, Gamba Gnirega “Campedel”, Bolla “Le Origini”, Massimino Venturini “Campomasua”, F.lli Recchia “Enorama”, Tenuta Sant’Antonio “Campo dei Gigli”.