Reviews

Spanish innovations
«Enoteka» №4-5(71) 2009

The Spanish Institute of Foreign Trade ICEX regularly holds wine tastings within Madrid Fusion gastronomic summits.

This year the chosen topic was “Innovative Spain: old vineyards, new wines”.

Modern Spanish wine industry is dynamic. Every year we hear about launches of new wineries and wines. But old estates are evolving too. They renew or expand vineyards, modernise production, increase quality of established wines or introduce new brands. The latest ICEX event, held together with the Spanish Tasters’ Association, specifically focused on such projects. “We want to show the most exciting and innovative brands which recently appeared in Spain”, said ICEX representative Jaime Montalvo. Over 20 wines from various regions were selected, each presented below.

DO Cava. Raventos i Blanc. Gran Reserva de la Finca 2004. Raventos i Blanc was founded near Barcelona just over 20 years ago. It specialises in high quality still and sparkling whites. The grapes for prestigious Cava Gran Reserva de la Finca come from a very old and prized vineyard planted next to an ancient Roman road. The blend is from traditional Spanish Xarello, Macabeo and Parellada, as well as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Gran Reserva is aged for more than 3 years before release. The wine has rather intense, sweet honey-and-biscuits aromas which are continued on the palate and balanced with good freshness. (88)

DO Rias Baixas. Adegas Condes de Albarei. En Rama 2005. Adegas Condes de Albarei cooperative in Rias Baixas is one of the quality pioneers for Albarino, a highly regarded white wine. Galician enologist Lucia Carballeira consults. The estate has 200 hectares of vineyards, thus being the largest in the area. The wine shows deep, steady aromas of white peaches and honey notes. The palate is fresh, full-bodied, with creamy texture. Staying mineral aftertaste. (90)

DO Valdeorras. Rafael Palacios. Louro do Bolo 2007. Rafael Palacios (brother of famous Alvaro) opened a small operation 5 years ago and hasn’t yet built a winery. Valdeorras area, in the meantime, is rising fast. Today it produces some of the most fashionable white wines inside Spain, made with Godello grape. Fermentation and aging take place in large, 3,000 litre wooden vats. Louro do Bolo was one of the leaders of the tasting thanks to its complex, elegant character which combines refinement and depth and has a sense of place. Very reasonably priced — 12 euros in Spain. (93)

Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon. Ossian Vides y Vinos. Ossian 2006. The winery from Rueda has achieved cult status. Ismael Gozalo and Javier Zaccagnini organically grow ungrafted pre-phylloxera vines of white Verdejo on the region’s highest plot. The wine is fermented and aged in French barrels. Ossian is a white titan, with astonishing concentration of flavours, complex white stone fruit, nuances of almond, smoke and smoked delicacies and remarkable aftertaste. (93)

DO Somontano. Vinedos y Crianzas del Alto Aragon. Enate Uno 2006. Alto Aragon which is better known under its Enate brand is known as innovative leader in Somontano. Along with making premium wines, the winery supports art projects. Enate Uno is an attempt to make a white grand cru from Chardonnay. It is indeed quite a distinctive wine which begs for comparison with dry (if it is ever made) Sauternes. But does it justify a 300 euro price tag? I am not convinced. (93)

DO Rias Baixas. La Val. Crianza Sobre Lias 2003. The estate belongs to restaurateur Jose Limeres who got engaged in winemaking in order to supply his restaurants with quality Albarino. With time his company became one of the most influential in the region. La Val is vinified and aged on fine lees, using steel vats, for 48 months. The wine with a fresh citrusy tone is indeed gastronomic and will go well with seafood. (87)

DO Arinzano. Vinedos y Bodegas Senorio de Arinzano 2001. Part of Bodegas Julian Chivite group, the estate was the first in Navarra to have received a separate denomination for its vineyard Arinzano 2001 is a blend of Tempranillo, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in oak barrels. At the age of eight it has dark-cherry colour and combines ripe and dried fruit, cedar, tar and cured meats. (88)

DO Ribera del Duero. Hermanos Perez Pascuas. Vina Pedrosa La Navilla 2005. A Ribera del Duero winery that is well known on export markets. The family estate owns 120 hectares of vineyards, 90% of which are planted to Tempranillo. The wine retains a link to its place of origin, though tastes over-extracted. (87)

DO Emporda — Costa Brava. Cavas del Castillo de Perelada. Castillo Perelada Ex Ex 7 2005. The winery was founded in 1925 and now produces sparkling Cava, still dry red and white wines. Castillo Perelada Ex Ex 7 is 100% Monastrel aged in French barrels for 14 months. The wine is made with an impressive skill. There is excellent freshness, high natural concentration, ripe fruit, grainy mineral texture and lasting, voluminous finish. (91)

Vino de la Tierra de Extremadura. Bodegas y Vinedos de Trujillo. Habla №5 2006. The estate is located in an obscure wine area, but it manages to maximise its potential. Vineyards grow on slate soils, thorough organic care and ultramodern equipment help to produce impressive wines. Habla №5, blend of Tempranillo with Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, is remembered by its expressive, harmonious bouquet of ripe fruit, well structured, elegant palate with a nuance of oriental spice and long lasting finish. (91)

DOCa Rioja. Bodegas Dinastia Vivanco. Coleccion Vivanco Parcelas de Garnacha 2005. The winery was opened 5 years ago and got into spotlight thanks to its great wine museum and cultural foundation. This robust Garnacha has certain elegance and freshness, but feels too warm because of high alcohol. (86)

Vino de la Tierra de Mallorca. 4 Kilos Vinicola. 4 Kilos 2006. A young estate, opened in 2006, belongs to two partners who invested four million pesetas, hence the name. Grapes come from different parts of Mallorca. 4 Kilos 2006 is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, with 15% of local Callet. An honest, straightforward wine with varietal characteristics of Cabernet. (86)

DOC Priorato. Ferrer Bobet. Seleccio Especial 2006. First Ferre Bobet wines came to the market last year. The quality leads to believe that the estate has very serious intentions regarding its work in Priorat. Seleccio Especial is a blend of 90% Carinena and 10% Garnacha, aged for 14 months in French barrels. The wine features wonderful freshness, structure and depth, it is elegant and mineral. (93)

Vino de la Tierra de Cadiz. Huerta de Albala. Taberner №1 2006. Huerta de Albala is perhaps the most impressive new project for dry wines in the Cadiz province which is better known as Jerez territory. Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and local Tintilla de Rota were chosen for vineyards. The estate has several wines crowned by Taberner №1. The blend is mostly Syrah, and for me this is the most exciting Spanish Syrah at the moment. It carries an idea of elegance and complexity typical for the best wines of the Northern Rhone. (94)

DO Ribera del Duero. Pago de los Capellanes. Parcela El Nogal 2005. The winery exports half of its volume and is well known on international markets. Its latest important initiative is to produce single vineyard wines. Parcela El Nogal is one of those. It is a ‘masculine’ wine with firm tannic structure and intense fruit. (91)

DOCa Rioja. Fernando Remirez de Ganuza. Maria Remirez de Ganuza 2003. The winery has stayed at the forefront of Rioja winemaking since it was founded in the end of the eighties. Maria Remirez de Ganuza is a Reserva wine made with Tempranillo and Garnacha. Deep, intense bouquet of black fruit, elegant style. (91)

Vino de la Tierra de Castilla. Casalobos. Casalobos 2005. One of the new, fashionable Spanish wineries, owned by sports stars. The wine is made by consultant enologist Ignacio de Miguel. A blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo, aged for a year in oak barrels. Red fruit, nervous acidity, needs food. (86)

DO Bierzo. Losada Vinos de Finca. Altos de Losada 2006. Back in 1959, French enologist Emile Peynaud said that Bierzo could make a great wine region. Half a century later his words are becoming reality. Losada Vinos de Finca is one of new wave estates which produce high quality wine from red Mencia. The wine has impeccable balance, silky touch, finely nuanced fruit, flowers and spices and good tannic grip. (92)

DO Toro. Elias Mora. 2V Premium 2005. The winery is run by female enologist Victoria Benavides. The estate has 30 hectares of ungrafted Tinta de Toro vines, many over 75 years old. The wine has typical for the area power and concentration, bright fruit and good oak integration. (90)

DO Calatayud. Bodegas Ateca. Atteca Armas 2005. Known American importer Jorge Ordonez stands behind Bodegas Ateca, and Australian Sarah Morris is responsible for winemaking. The estate’s main asset is 85 hectares of old Grenache vines, with average age of 50 years. The wine is made in modern style, with powerful flavours and attractive suppleness. (89)

DO Jerez-Xeres-Sherry-Manzanilla de Sanlucar de Barrameda. Equipo Navazos. La Bota de Pedro Ximenez 1/12 №11. Equipo Navazos a group of wine connoisseurs who buy from producers barrels with the finest and most sophisticated Jerez. Wines are usually distributed within the group, but a limited number of bottles can be offered to the market. La Bota de Pedro Ximenez №11 is among the most remarkable sweet Pedro Ximenez that I ever tasted. A very even bouquet of sunflower oil and British Christmas pudding. The palate is oily, perfectly balanced, without heaviness and ideally supple. The wine of impeccable harmony. (96)