Reviews

Albarino: made in Rias Baixas
«Enoteka» №4-5(71) 2009

Albarino is popular in Spain and also appeals to international consumers.

Australian winemakers were so impressed with the wine that declared Albarino Australia’s new great hope. Albarino wines are also sold in Russia. Why not learn more about them?

Let’s leave Australia for another time, and talk about Spain. Albarino grape that lent its name to the wine has been cultivated in the north-west of the country for at least 7 centuries and perhaps even ten. The thick-skinned variety is fully adapted to humid Atlantic climate. It is resistant to rot and, what’s more important, is suitable for production of high quality wines. In 1988 Rias Baixas became a denominated area for growing Albarino and producing wines. Success appears to have followed the wine since then. To put it in context, the vineyard area covered 237 hectares, and the wine was made by 14 wineries in 1987. Next year, when the denominated area was created the figures doubled. Now, twenty years later, 3,600 hectares are planted in DO Rias Baixas, and the number of wineries counts 200. Several white and red varieties are grown in the region, but Albarino is almost a monopolist. It has 90% of total vineyards.

Being a seaside area, Rias Baixas is characterised by mild climate which is formed under the influence of the Atlantic Ocean. During the winegrowing season the region feels like a huge greenhouse — wet, but very sunny (total amount of sun hours exceeds 2,200 which is more than in hot and sunny Burgenland). The coolest and wettest area is Val do Salnes in the north-west, while Condado do Tea in the south is the warmest and driest. Five subzones are distinguished in Rias Baixas, each characterised by own climate, soils, altitude and other conditions. Val do Salnes is the flattest of all. Condado do Tea and Soutomaior lie in the mountainous area. Ribeira do Ulla has alluvial soils, Condado do Tea — granite and schist, and Val do Salnes, O Rosal and Soutomaior they are granite with top alluvial strata.

Wines from different parts of Rias Baixas do taste differently, but these nuances are best to find during professional tastings. As for the general profile of Albarino wines, they can be described as follows. Aromas feature intense flowers and fruit, flavours have freshness, oiliness, dominance of fruit at the backdrop of soft acidity and good body. Albarino’s fruity and floral descriptors are white flowers (especially from blossoming trees and peas), peaches, apricots, green apples, lemons, tangerines, pineapples and quince. Besides, notes of almonds, citrus peel, ginger and other soft spices are found. A mineral tone is always present in a good Albarino; honeyed nuances develop with age.

By the way, talking about aging. Albarino wines are usually drunk young when they are full of fresh, expressive flavours. The tasters, though, agree that Albarino is at its best between 2 and 5 years old, and they can live up to ten years. I also share this view. Recently the Rias Baixas Regulating Council ran a tasting in Madrid where wines were deliberately chosen at the age of 3 to 7 years. One wine was Albarino de Fefinanes III Ano 2002 from leading estate Bodegas del Palacio de Fefinanes. With a finely woven fabric of aromas and flavours, it was an excellent example of how beautifully Albarino can age. I often wrote a phrase “at the peak of development” for many 2004 wines. If you have a bottle of a young quality wine, have patience to keep it for a couple of years before opening. Your patience is bound to be rewarded.

Having discussed general flavour profile and aging, it’s time to talk about Albarino wine styles. The wines are quite aromatic, so winemakers prefer to ferment and age them in neutral steel tanks, like Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc. Cellar aging is usually short, up to one year. Good examples of the style are Pazo Pineiro de Lusco by Adegas Pazos de Lusco, Sanamaro by Pazo de San Mauro, Fillaboa by Bodegas Fillaboa, Adegas d’Altamira Seleccion by Adegas d’Altamira. Some wineries age wines longer. The above mentioned Albarino de Fefinanes III Ano 2002 by Bodegas del Palacio de Fefinanes rests in steel tanks for 24 months, while Contraaparede by Adega dos Eidos — forty four! Some wineries like to obtain a more complex bouquet by means of barrel aging. If it is done accurately and properly, results can be interesting, like in Veigadares by Adegas Galegas. In the meantime, Bodegas Martin Codax experiment with late harvest grapes, produing dry, concentrated Gallaecia.

In the end some words about pairing with food. Galicia, the homeland of Albarino, is renowned for its fishing industry. No wonder the Galicians offer their wine to various seafood and fish dishes, from bar snacks to sophisticated restaurant dishes. I would call Albarino a universal wine which can go with or without food. Albarino also matches well Russian cuisine, especially dishes with sour cream. This combination comes highly recommended.