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«Gastronom» №7 (90) July 2009

Comments to the review on Sauvignon Blanc wines

I like Sauvignon Blanc for its original aromas and flavours. Herbs, green vegetables, citruses and tropical fruit are easily recognized. At times wines are so hugely individual that tasters apply strong descriptors: “cat’s pee on a gooseberry bush” or “a bungee jump in a tank with passion fruit”.

The finest examples of Sauvignon Blanc should be sought from France — the Loire Valley and Bordeaux. I find Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume particularly appealing. They have complex aromas, with typical gunflint and smoke, and refresh thanks to higher acidity levels. These wines very well refer to the word sauvage, or wild, which lies at the origin of the grape’s name. Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume by Pascal Jolivet are an excellent introduction to the character of local Sauvignon Blanc.

In Bordeaux in the Graves area energetic character of the grape is softened by blending it with Semillon and aging in oak barrels. Thus winemakers achieve more complexity in wines. Andre Lurton, a prominent figure in Bordeaux, makes such wines in several estates, with Chateau La Louviere being the flagship.

New Zealand is now a popular region for producing Sauvignon Blanc. It is hard to believe that the era of New Zealand wines started only thirty years ago. Sauvignon Blanc there is not merely a grape. It is a subject of national pride. Though wines are produced in different parts of the country, international consumers associate it with an explosive, intense style from Marlborough with its signature passion fruit and mango. Cloudy Bay became an icon wine from the first vintage — the prices, fortunately, remain reasonable.