Reviews

Yquem and Cheval Blanc: mountain tasting
«Enoteka» №8-9 2009

I am fortunate to participate in tastings of outstanding and, at times, great wines regularly enough.

In accordance with a wine’s rank, special venues — with solemn or at least refined ambiance — are chosen, which makes a tasting experience truly unforgettable. Among many others, these special tastings remain vivid in my memory: Château Latour in The National Hotel in Moscow; Egon Müller, Château Lafleur, Château Margaux and Domaine Armand Rousseau in Carl-Heinz Wolf’s estate on the Attersee Lake in Austria; Croft and Taylor’s in The Factory House in Oporto; Chateau La Mission Haut Brion in The Square restaurant in London. Recently I was invited to taste great Bordeaux in an unconventional setting, and it actually worked extremely well to everybody’s advantage.

On a sunny spring day an e-mail arrived in my inbox. “Dear Eleonora, here’s information about a weekend dedicated to Bordeaux thoroughbreds. With kind wishes from Corvara”. It then informed that Pierre Lurton, managing director of two grand Bordeaux properties — Château d’Yquem and Château Cheval Blanc, is coming to La Perla hotel in Corvara in the middle of July. Monsieur Lurton would run a series of tastings dedicated to the nectar of Yquem, including rare old vintages, 1934 and 1950. An additional bonus was offered through a tasting of two vintages of Cheval Blanc, red “stallion” from St. Emilion.

Naturally, an event like that couldn’t be missed. I never visited Corvara before, but knew that it is situated in the South Tyrol, somewhere close to Bolzano. Having put my trust onto the car navigation system and having not got round to checking the map or finding basic information on Corvara on the internet (yes, shame on me) I didn’t expect to arrive to a famous mountain ski resort in the very heart of the Dolomite Alps. While the heat in Bolzano was over thirty degrees, the temperature in Corvara hardly climbed to seventeen. After all, the altitude there is properly over 1500 metres, and the nearby Sassongher peak measures 2,665 metres. But there was no time for mountain walks. Frankly, there was not enough time even to look around La Perla hotel that in two days won over my heart.

La Perla is a fairytale-like place, as if about Snow White and the seven dwarfs. Traditional style with wooden decor and handmade embroidery alludes to the dwarfs, while amazing elegance, refined food and genuine hospitality make one think of Snow White. Splendid Stüa di Michil restaurant and an original, even extravagant wine cellar with thirty thousand bottles — well, they are not run by the cartoon characters, but have a proud master Michil Costa who also organised our tasting. Along with Italians (this time I side up with them as I live in this country), the tasting attracted guests from the neighbouring Austria and further-a-field Germany.

The programme started on a Saturday noon. The first tasting featured only one wine which however could have been an event in itself. “An exclusive tasting of Château d’Yquem 1934 for a limited number of guests, followed by lunch with other Bordeaux wines”, the invitation read.

The road from Como where I live to Corvara takes just over four hours. Having left the house at seven in the morning, I was expecting to get to the hotel some time before the tasting. But road works and jammed traffic (summer, tourists) stretched the journey to five and a half hours. A couple of minutes in the room to get changed, and Giovanna Pedrollo, Michil Costa’s right hand, is bringing me to the tasting. It takes place next to the hotel, in “Ciasa Vedla”, a carefully preserved old house of the Costa family. It’s a typical Alpine edifice with modest interior and worn down wooden steps where my shoes on high heels prove a risky choice. Glasses with Château d’Yquem 1934 on traditional tablecloths are an unexpected dichotomy, yet it is much more harmonious in the mountain setting than, say, crystal and silverware.

Came just in time — guests were about to taste 75-year-old nectar. Pierre Lurton, perhaps under the influence of unpretentious furnishings, let the tasting go without long speeches and gave the guests freedom to enjoy the wine and explore its finest nuances. Enzo Vizzari, Espresso guide chief editor and long standing fan of French wines, Othmar Kiem who writes for Austrian Falstaff, uncompromising Italian critic Franco Ziliani and some other familiar people were sitting at the tables. Michil Costa was dressed in a traditional costume of the Ladins, mountain people who live in the South Tyrol.

The wine was stunning. Brilliant copper colour, with a steady, deep bouquet where tangerines and walnuts are noted at once. The palate is amazingly fresh, rich and supple, along the line of elegance, but with discerning taste elements. Above all, one finds sweet-and-sour confiture of cherry-plums with skins as well as nuances of citruses, crème brûlée and walnuts. The wine gives an incredible feeling of being without alcohol. Impeccably elegant, persistent and in a great shape. As Pierre Lurton noted, the 1934 wine is a case when Yquem can be an aperitif (I would serve without any food context, as a self sufficient wine — such examples are also called meditative wines).

The bottle, like all the rest, came directly from the chateau cellars. Ideal storage conditions undoubtedly helped Château d’Yquem 1934 to become a memorable wine that was presented to us. There are no precise figures about the total number of produced bottles, but Pierre Lurton assumed that there should have been around seventy or eighty thousand (for comparison, current average annual production is 130,000 bottles). The year was marked by two outstanding things: 56 days of continuous heat over 30 degrees between June-August and virtually uninterrupted picking (which happens very seldom, usually grapes are picked in several waves known as tries), from 7 September to 4 October. A short technical note: 13,2% alcohol, 126 g/l residual sugar, 4,7 g/l tartaric acid.

Lunch was served in the same building on the first floor. Again, no formalities — here’s a table with cold meat cuts, cheeses and bread, all of which are local specialties, and here’s the chef who is filling bowls with mountain soup. We settled on a small wooden terrace overlooking a kitchen garden with its neat rows of vegetables and herbs tended by Michil’s mother Anni.

A short stroll around the hotel (too fresh to climb the mountains as my clothes are meant for July heat), and it is time to join a vertical tasting of Château d’Yquem with six vintages spanning from 1989 to 2005.

This time a hall in La Perla was set in a standard way for a professional tasting. There were long rows of tables with white tablecloths in a spacious, well lit room. Each taster had own workspace with six glasses and a file with vintage descriptions. The only things that couldn’t be seen around were spittoons, and it was a rare occasion when none of the tasters mentioned their absence.

Pierre Lurton and Enzo Vizzari who took on a job of an interpreter from French to Italian, as well as a wine commentator, were sitting at the head table, behind a line of Yquem bottles.

One struggles to find new words about Yquem. The estate has been lavished with praise since the moment it presented its legendary nectars to the world. It was the only wine in famous 1855 Bordeaux classification to receive a title of Premier Cru Superieur which distinguished it even among top five Bordeaux wines. Today, when sweet wines are out of fashion, Château d’Yquem is a notable exception. Its wines continue to enjoy high demand which confirms the estate’s privileged position on the modern wine Olympus.

Yquem holdings are about 130 hectares, according to Lurton. While the wine’s official designation is “Sauternes”, vineyards are located in both Sauternes and Barsac. Sauternes terroirs are clay, yielding grapes with rich flavours. Limestone soils of Barsac tend to fall under the description of austere. The wine therefore combines both characteristics to create inimitable complexity. On the one hand, it is rich and opulent, on the other — has excellent freshness, acidity and minerality.

In 2004 count Alexandre de Lur-Saluces whose family dynasty had been connected to Château d’Yquem since 1785, left the estate. By then, the luxury group LVMH had been a major shareholder for five previous years, and it appointed Pierre Lurton as new managing director. At the same year, when 2001 vintage was due to be bottled, a subtle change was made on the lables. The word Lur-Saluces was neatly, in the same type, replaced for Sauternes.

Château d’Yquem is an archetype, a wine in a class of its own. Regardless of weather fluctuations, it always possesses a distinguished set of qualities. All more interesting to compare different vintages as they can accentuate or, conversely, play down presence of certain characteristics. On this occasion each of six wines also brought forward own story, yet remained essentially Yquem.

The tasting went from young to old vintages, with 2005 being first on the list. A year of great balance that yielded unsurpassed red wines was also qualitatively homogenous for sweet wines and a grand millesime for Château d’Yquem. Weather-wise 2005 is remembered as the second driest vintage since 1897, also with higher temperatures. Pierre Lurton spoke about the grape harvest that lasted from 19 September to 28 October and was picked in six waves. Brilliant yellow colour, aromas still come out in separate threads, as witnessed in young wines, with dominating apricot compote. Alcoholic warmth is initially felt, but it disappears with time, and apricots give way to floral (acacia flowers) and citrus nuances. The palate is decidedly fresh, but in full harmony with intense fruit, citruses and apricots, and light ginger spice. There is an explosion of fruit and caramel on the finish that is long and persistent.

Château d’Yquem 2004, presented in our tasting between 2005 and 2001 vintages, appeared elegant and light, to reflect a difficult winemaking year. Tropical weather in early August caused rot, and botrytis appeared only at the beginning of September. Picking took place between 20 September and 4 November. “Vintages like 2004 demand especially careful selection of berries, as well as base wines for the final blend”, noted Pierre Lurton. The wine contains 13,5% alcohol, 129 g/l residual sugar, 4,8 g/l tartaric acid. Brilliant yellow colour, nuanced, fantastically elegant aromas of flowers, apricots, figs, a light citrus note. A supple palate combines sensuality and lightness, with distinguished notes of honey and light spice. A long honeyed finish.

Millesime 2001 undoubtedly deserves praise bestowed by leading wine critics. “We could almost say we suffered the dictates of a great vintage”, says Château d’Yquem press folder. In 2001grapes ripened early and had high sugar levels before picking. September rains led to an explosive development of noble rot. The harvested grapes arrived in the winery rich in sugars and with very concentrated aromas. Picking of grapes destined for Château d’Yquem lasted from 18 September to 20 October. The final technical parameters are 13,6% alcohol, 150 g/l residual sugar, 4,55 g/l tartaric acidity. Brilliant golden colour, wine of great richness, intensity and opulence. After a powerful initial attack, aromas become nuanced, there are yellow plums, apricots, tropical and dried fruit. Flavours, if using music terms, are voluminous, “meaty”, but not heavy. The main tonality is yellow plums, with complex overtones of exotic fruit and saffron. A complete balance of sugar and acidity, fine texture. A grand finale, with amazing length.

2000 was a superb vintage for red Bordeaux. Sweet wines, however, had difficulties. That year Château d’Yquem produced only 25,000 bottles, having reduced production by 80%. Summer was dry, but the biggest concern was rain during harvesting. Grapes were picked from 18 September to 30 October, but only two waves of picking between 18 September and 10 October made it to the wine. Thanks to strictest selection, quality of the wine was well above satisfactory. Technical data here is 14,2% alcohol, 128 g/l residual sugar, 4,58 g/l tartaric acidity. Brilliant, intense golden colour. Aromas are sweeter than in other wines, with intense white stone fruit, yellow plums and vanilla. The palate is also perceived sweeter than others, with confitured apricots and tangerines, caramel and spices and a minerally note. Long finish.

Summarizing vintage 1997, only one word is used in Château d’Yquem — excess. Very hot weather, very early ripening, a very long harvest, both very early and very late. Pickers started their jobs on 4 September — the earliest date in the chateau’s recorded history. Grapes were picked in 7 waves during two months. “As a result, the wine was made as if of two vintages”, noted Lurton. Technical parameters are 13,9% alcohol, 120 g/l residual sugar, 4,8 g/l acidity. Yellow amber colour. Steady, intense aromas of lemon candy and treacle. Rich, luscious palate, with ripe yellow fruit, mineral and menthol nuances. A splendid wine.

The final chord of the tasting was Château d’Yquem 1989. “A great vintage that needs little comment”, stated Lurton. A hot, dry winegrowing season and harvest. Plenty of botrytis. Grapes were picked 25 September through 25 October. Early reports from the winery describe the wine as extremely powerful and rich. A technical note — 13,2% alcohol, 127 g/l residual sugar, 3,97 g/l acidity. Dark amber colour, the darkest in the line-up. Expressive, enticing aromas and flavours, reminiscent of caramelised orange zest. Infinitely rich, leaving a taster with a sense of great amazement. A “time bomb” in terms of further aging potential.

Before closing this part of the story, I’d like to stop for a moment. One of the evidences of a wine’s greatness is its ability to evolve in a glass for a marked period of time. Each tasted wine magnetically drew back, with time subtly changing its bouquet, like a pattern in a kaleidoscope. Franco Ziliani and I were the last to leave the tasting room, enjoying the magic of great Sauternes to the full.

The splendid Saturday finished with a refined meal and an unexpected ending, and this is how in unfolded. The guests gathered in Stüa di Michil, one of the finest South Tyrol restaurants (awarded with a Michelin star) where chef Arturo Spicocchi turns the mountain cuisine into a genuine creative act.

After an aperitif with Champagne Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs 1996 (actually, the Champagne was so good that our glasses were topped up throughout the night), the dinner started with soup of olive oil, grey mullet, watermelon and melon served with Y d’Yquem 2000. Ygrec is a dry white blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. As Pierre Lurton put it, the wine is essentially green harvest for Yquem. Not to distract attention from the unmatched Sauternes, the estate doesn’t promote Y d’Yquem too rigorously, also because of its small volume. In 2000, for example, only 8,000 bottles were produced. I don’t know what makes a greater influence — a rarity factor or the estate’s privileged position on the market, but prices for this wine are on par with top white Burgundy (60 euros ex-chateau). Ours was a full-bodied, fatty wine well balanced by acidity and an excellent partner to the fish-and-fruit soup.

It is a bold decision to serve sweet Sauternes before red wine, but who doesn’t take the risk doesn’t drink Château d’Yquem 2004 with bread gnocchetti, pork ragout, burrata cheese and tomato confit. A superbly executed dish (many asked for the second helping) with rich flavours and a “light-weight” version of Yquem (see detailed notes above in the tasting part) made quite a good tandem.

The guests were enjoying themselves, and the further the night went, the more pleasurable it was. Pierre Lurton came round to see every table, his easy manners also added to the warmth of the dinner. In the meantime, the main course was served — a veal chop, zucchini scales, olive pâté, culatello and pear-and-ginger cake. An aged Sauternes would have been an interesting unconventional choice, but we were drinking red Bordeaux. Which one? Cheval Blanc, naturally. Vintage 2001. I’ve been and continue to be a fan of this millesime in Bordeaux thanks to its classical features, but that night Cheval Blanc 2001 regrettably didn’t perform to its best capacity. Alas, there are no great wines, but great bottles (luckily, next day at lunch we were drinking “right” bottle of the same vintage).

The culmination of our night was cremoso di gorgonzola with Château d’Yquem 1950, or rather Château d’Yquem 1950 accompanied by a dessert of creamy gorgonzola. Press materials state that the vintage had favourable weather, and picking conditions were ideal (20 September — 27 October). In total 358 barrels were made. Brilliant golden-amber colour. Initial slightly earthy aromas are replaced by open, lifted notes of nuts and caramel. Supple, fresh palate where nutty flavours are joined by those of apricot, caramel and spice. Lingering caramel finish. Pierre Lurton admitted that the wine evolved slightly faster than one wishes for, but this is undeniably delicious historic Sauternes, which at a venerable age of 59 years is far from fading away.

Evening was turning to night, Pierre Lurton said goodbye until morning, but our dinner in Stüa di Michil then didn’t quite end. As the curtain fell, inspired Enzo Vizzari somehow got to the kitchen and decided to cook his own recipe of pasta piccante. And he actually did it, with a bit of help from the kitchen chefs. The pasta, though, was so spicy that the heat had to be extinguished by a couple of glasses of Champagne. But what a performance! Bravo Enzo!

Sunday supposedly offered a lazy morning. A lunch with tasting was planned for noon, but as it happened, there was no time for rest. After romantic breakfast with a view on majestic Sassongher I met with Michil Costa to find out more about his wine story — which turned to be linked to rock music, the Ladin people, the largest in the Dolomites bicycle marathon and a charity foundation for Tibet children. Then there was an enchanting (yes, this is the most adequate description) visit to the “Mahatma Wine” wine cellar — imagine dancing bottles of Champagne Bruno Paillard, a Château d’Yquem treasure cave, a Supertuscan alley and, along with lots of other stunts, a famous Sassicaia temple. The visit needs to be told as a separate story, but what is more recommended is your personal experience of the place.

By midday people were ready for frühschoppen (an early cup, an excellent German expression). White sausages, freshly brewed local beer and pretzels were promised. But the lunch, of course, had to start with wine. Together with the magnums of Château Cheval Blanc 2004 and 2001 Pierre Lurton brought a surprise, a magnum of Cheval des Andes 2002.

When presenting Cheval Blanc, the managing director reminded of the estate’s unique position. Vineyards are classified as Saint Emilion AOC, but their soils have little in common with terroirs around Saint Emilion. The property is surrounded by several neighbours: soils near Petrus are clay, near Figeac — gravelly, and near La Dominique — sandy. The soil composition, as well as high content of Cabernet Franc (also known as Bouchet) explain a very special position of Château Cheval Blanc among other Saint Emilion wines. Pierre Lurton also spoke about the latest important news. A new winery will be open in Cheval Blanc in 2011. Well known French architect Christian de Portzamparc is working on it. “Noble materials, space and technology — it is a superb project”, enthused Lurton.

Cheval Blanc 2004, described as an easy vintage, that day showed more characteristics of Cabernet Franc, with its distinctive spicy bouquet. The wine is generally known for being withdrawn at a younger age, and that’s what we witnessed with 2004. Dense, fresh, full-bodied, tight palate gave an impression of minerals rather than fruit, but ripe, finely grained tannins (which Pierre Lurton refers to as cashmere) and general balance have laid foundation to a wine that will come to a full glory with further aging.

If compared with vintage 2004, Cheval Blanc 2001 has a descriptive “more” before all its attributes. It has more open, intense nose with red fruit and first signs of dried fruit as well as mineral notes, more concentration and volume on the palate. But this Cheval Blanc is elegant in all respects and serves as a top notch example of a wine from a classical Bordeaux vintage.

It was an act of courage for Pierre Lurton to have put forward Argentine Cheval des Andes after the legendary Bordeaux wine, but he had a point. Cheval des Andes is a benchmark against which success of the winemaking Argentina is measured. This is a joint venture of the luxury group LVMH and Château Cheval Blanc on high altitude Mendoza vineyards. Pierre Lurton has been involved in the project since 2001. “Discovering Argentina is a fantastic story for me”, he says. Old vines of Malbec, traditional Argentine variety, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon and some Petit Verdot are grown at 900-1,000 metres. Cabernet dominated in the earlier vintages, but the accent since has been moved to Malbec, a grape with great personality. Cheval des Andes 2002 (55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Malbec) is a mature wine if measured by an Argentine yardstick, but its ruby colour actually looked younger than in both Cheval Blanc vintages. Some tasters declared the wine lightly corked, but I found that with time the dubious tone disappeared. After good aeration Cheval des Andes 2002 opened up with a bouquet of flowers and dried fruit. Full, expressive, concentrated palate featured blackberries, mulberries and dried fruit. The tannic structure impressed more by power than elegance. A powerful, distinctive wine, but lives in a different world from Cheval Blanc. Actually, it wouldn’t be right to compare them head-to head, as they are so different.

And then — to lunch in the fresh air, sitting on benches at long wooden tables. Local white beer was superb, but no one could really blame the guests that they opted to drink Cheval Blanc.

Thus ends the story of the mountain tasting. Yquem and Cheval Blanc, the Dolomites and La Perla. Great wines show their greatness in any circumstances, but a very big thank you to Michil Costa and Pierre Lurton for an exceptionally original setting. It will be remembered for long, perhaps even for a life-time.