Reviews

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2006
«Vinnaya Karta» №5(106) October 2009

Half a day is usually given for Anteprima tasting at Montepulciano as production of Rosso and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is several times smaller than that of Chianti Classico.

Not all producers participate in Anteprima, but, unlike in other Tuscan tastings, one can count on the presence of all top wineries. Also this time Avignonesi, Boscarelli, La Braccesca, Poliziano, Tenimenti Angelini, Lodola Nuova and others were pouring their wines for the journalists.

The biggest news is that starting this year Federico Carletti from Poliziano assumed the presidency of the consortium. His innovative estate is well known in the international circles. Hopefully, Carletti will transfer his progressive ideas on the management of the Consorzio. In his opening speech he already declared an ambitious intention to bring Vino Nobile di Montepulciano on the “Olympus of the Tuscan wines” that is cannot quite reach in the modern era.

“Our way is through quality. It should be better than before. Besides, production rules and regional typicity in wines must be totally respected”, said the president.

This year the event was held on the main square Piazza Grande instead of the usual medieval palace that is currently closed for restoration. Once the works are finished the palace will become a central venue for wines from Montepulciano. Although there was more space at Piazza Grande, the tasting with sommelier service was too slow, so it was best to taste Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2006 and talk with producers in the adjacent room.

“Ideal,” that was the summary of 2006 vintage from well respected consultant enologist Paolo Vagaggini. Indeed, the weather blessed Tuscan winemakers that year to produce superb wines. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2006 is rich in polyphenols, resulting in intense and complex aromas and flavours. Tannic structure is firm, but not aggressive. Alcohol and acidity levels are slightly higher, but all elements are in equilibrium. The vintage is likely to be remembered as one of the best manifestations of characteristics, typical for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Paolo Vagaggini is involved with a new estate Icario whose first vintage was made in 2003. Last year a winery was opened, equally interesting from a functional, as well as aesthetical point of view. Big investments by the Roman family Cecchetti are already paying off. Icario wines were among the leaders of the tasting, and their Vino Nobile Vitaroccia 2006 from selected harvest was particularly impressive.

Another memorable wine was Vino Nobile Simposio 2006 from Angelini, a family with a long history in Montalcino that also owns a vineyard in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Simposio is 100% Sangiovese from selected grapes, it is made only in the best years, such as, undoubtedly, 2006.

Wines from leading estates showed an expected level of quality. By the way, the latest news that everyone was discussing was the sale of Avignonesi. At the moment of writing the buyer was not known, though the rumour was that foreign capital was involved.