Reviews

Russian series: Fanagoria
October 2009

My trip to Fanagoria following a recent visit by Jancis Robinson will be inevitably viewed by some as “Russian retaliation”.

A coincidence in dates, though, is purely accidental.

I am not the first to have discovered Fanagoria. It was done by several Russian experts who visited the estate in 2007-2008 and presented their findings in various articles in the Russian press. In turn, I can offer access to international readers. The visit was prompted by my work on the Old Russian Empire chapter (editors decidedly do not want to change this overstatement to a better suited phrase — Ex-USSR countries) in the annual Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book. Russian customs regulations for wine are outrageous: it was cheaper to organize a trip from Italy to Sennoy village in Krasnodar region than to send a couple of dozen of samples from Sennoy to Italy.

A half-day programme included visiting vineyards and the winery, as well as tasting, but I admit that it was not enough to learn everything about Fanagoria. By European standards, this is a giant company with 2,300 hectares of vineyards and total production of 18,6 mln. litres, of which 98,9% were accounted for still and sparkling wines in 2008. Yet it is comparable in size to many New World companies, for example, a well known Chilean holding Carolina Wine Brands that works with 2,000 hectares of vineyards and annually ships 18 mln. litres of wine.

Comparisons with European and New World models kept popping throughout the visit. For me, this is a positive sign confirming that although Fanagoria is inherently Russian, it is following the course that is understood by the international wine community. Yet Fanagoria, like other wineries in the south of Russia, works in unique natural and climatic conditions. They will be the point of difference between Southern Russian and other world wine regions, on condition that Russian wines achieve high quality and become competitive on the international level.

The winery is located on the Taman peninsula, which divides the Black and the Azov Seas on the eastern side. Water masses have the greatest influence on the climate, softening the temperature throughout all seasons. Yet summers are hot, up to 30 degrees, making the Taman peninsula a popular beach destination. Thanks to mild winters vineyards are not banked up like in the Stavropol region to the east. Still, frosts are the main threat. Director of viniculture Alexander Mouzychenko (who previously did NOT work in KGB as portrayed by Jancis Robinson but who used to work in local administration before joining Fanagoria) says that once in 15 years the temperature can drop down to minus 25 degrees, and in the past decade farmers had two big frosts in 2002 and 2006. The latest frost destroyed 4,000 hectares out of 18,000 in Temriuk administrative district that largely covers the Taman peninsula.

In terms of precipitation the area is rather dry, with about 300 mm of rain and snow, but the main concern is high humidity. According to Mouzychenko, the humidity level is around 80%. Leaves are removed around bunches in order to keep harvest in a good sanitary condition. Thus berries are better dried by the sun and get additional ventilation. The winery uses up to 12 treatments a year.

Fanagoria vineyards mostly grow in a flat area. They are 60-80 metres above sea level, the situation similar to Bordeaux. There are also low hills (kriazhi ) with wide slopes. New vineyards were recently planted on one of such hills, 15 kilometres to the south of traditional Fanagoria plantings. New area is called Fanagoria Youg (Fanagoria South) and covers 1,200 hectares of vineyards. The kriazh has ideal southern exposition and has a promising quality potential. General director Piotr Romanishin is making plans to build a separate premium production winery there.

Soils are one of the key factors to determine terroir characteristics of the Taman vineyards. These are famous Kuban brown soils chernoziom, known for their fertility. There are 1,5 metres of humus, at times too much as Romanishin admits. But these soils, for example, tremendously help weaker varieties, giving them more vigour. And if it wasn’t for chernoziom, Taman winemaking might not be possible at all. As Alexander Mouzichenko explains, the top soil is followed by a layer of clay, beneath which there is a salty water table. Thanks to clay, rain water is well retained, and vineyards do not need to be artificially irrigated. Mud volcanoes, over 20 of them, are a curious phenomenon of the Taman peninsula. People in Fanagoria believe that they ensure higher mineral content in the soils.

All Fanagoria vineyards are trellis-trained. Alexander Mouzichenko finds free cordon (or cordone speronato in Italy where it is very common in Tuscany) most suitable for high quality production. The density is 1,700 plants per hectare, average yields — 10-12 tonnes per hectare, or 6-7 kg per vine by further calculation. The question, naturally, is whether this is too high. I would prefer to see either higher density or lower yields. Mouzichenko claims that vines are in balance. Later the tasting showed that wines do not taste diluted. Yet if Fanagoria is going to improve quality further or to create ultra-premium ‘supertaman’ brands, the issue of yields will have to be addressed.

This year Fanagoria was harvesting from over 800 hectares of vineyards. New plantings will be suitable for production in a couple of years, and then the winery will be able to fully satisfy its needs. At present the company owns 2,350 hectares of vineyards, with further increase to 2,500 hectares. There are about two dozen of grape varieties. Mostly classical European grapes — Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, etc., are used for premium production, plus well known Georgian Saperavi (though this one is not strictly Georgian) and local Russian grape Tsimliansky Chiorny. At this stage I see the use of international varieties as a good test to measure how well the quality of Russian wines meets international standards, while local or autochthonous varieties are like icing on the cake.

And here’s the final note about vineyards. Fanagoria owns a nursery for own needs as well as to offer cuttings to other farmers. The nursery covers 10 hectares, with a capacity of 500,000 vines per year. The proportion between red and white varieties is about 60 / 40. The nursery has a glamourous name Super Elita, but in Russian it does send a message of quality material that was brought from France and Italy and is now propagated in the Taman.

While at a glance Fanagoria vineyards look similar to vineyards elsewhere, its production area has an unmistakable flair inherited from the Soviet days. But, I must stress, that it is true only about external structures. Other winemakers are likely to be jealous of some equipment that is hidden inside.

Fanagoria took over a wine production facility founded in 1957. When Khruschev declared that the Black Sea coast should produce Russian “champagne”, Fanagoria was built as one of the typical plants to process 30,000 tonnes of grapes per year. During the Gorbachev times the plant made only natural (varietal!) grape juices, thus vineyards were preserved. Fanagoria still has rooms with German equipment for making juices which is gradually being replaced by winemaking equipment. Some buildings are a former cotton plant. Now they used for aging and storing eau-de-vies. The total size of the complex is 9 hectares, and even a quick tour around facilities takes no less than an hour.

It is a massive challenge to re-equip a former industrial plant with modern winemaking equipment (it must be easier to build a new winery), but general director Piotr Romanishin is doing an admirable job. He has worked in the company for 12 years, and has managed the company for the past four. In a relatively short period of time Romanishin carried out a huge investment programme. “In three years we changed primary and secondary equipment”, says head of production Youri Ouzounov. This is traditional Russian jargon that means, accordingly, vinification and bottling stages. It comes from the Soviet times when wine was made near vineyards, but bottled in big cities, closer to consumer markets, at times thousands kilometres away from wineries. The practice still exists in Russia today. Fanagoria is one of the exceptions where all production stages from growing grapes to vinification and bottling are done in one estate.

New sophisticated equipment is supplied by companies who are industry leaders. For example, crushes, presses and a tangential filter (the latest innovation — there are only 7 of them in the world, according to Fanagoria) were bought from Bucher Vaslin. Last year a new Italian bottling line was installed. It is the biggest among all Russian wineries, with a capacity of 12,000 bottles per hour. Old vats are gradually being replaced by new stainless steel tanks, and other processing equipment is being bought. Another proof of the quality direction is in new French barrels, made by Vicard and Radoux. Each costs 600 euros, and the annual demand is counted in dozens and dozens. Fanagoria recently opened a new, fully equipped warehouse where 5 million bottles can be stored.

Next investment will go to refurbish a huge cellar where traditional method sparkling wines will be made. Part of the cellar will feature a wine museum and a tasting room. Thus the company plans to spend another 15 million roubles (around 350,000 euros) on production and wine tourism.

By the way, about tourism. The Taman peninsular has a rich history that goes back for at least 26 centuries. Fanagoria is named after a former Greek colony where ancient Greeks, naturally, couldn’t do without wine. The company is already having some historic and cultural activities. It also has a workshop where craftsmen make ceramic vessels (mini copies of historic amphorae) used for Fanagoria specialty bitter that is made with 26 herbs. Here’s a video of a craftsman at work.

And another important remark. Fanagoria management has created an atmosphere where the staff — from a worker to a top manager — can be proud of their work and their wine. Here’s just a small example. At the day of my visit harvesting was cancelled due to rain. Instead, a wine tasting was organised for pickers so that they also understand what wines are made from the grapes that they harvest.

Fanagoria develops production in three main categories — still wines, sparkling wines and brandies, plus some specialty bitters are made. Still wines account for the major part. Last year 17,200 litres were produced, or 92,5% of total production, of which 70% of wine is bottled. Sparkling wines have a small share, but the company will soon introduce a new range of traditional method sparkling wines. In August Fanagoria launched 3- and 5-year old Zolotoy Fregat brandies made with own and French eau-de-vies. By the way, some eau-de-vies are aged in Russian oak barrels made by local coopers.

The tasting was organised by head of laboratory Valentina Popandopulo. Again, this is a Russian peculiarity that a head of laboratory, not a winemaker, is responsible for the quality of final products. Since 2006 Fanagoria employs the services of consultant John Worontschak (an Australian of the Ukrainian descent who lives in London and runs a winemaking consultancy). As Valentina Popandopulo says, Worontschak introduced a comprehensive approach to winemaking as well as systematic quality checks through cask tastings — something that wasn’t practiced in the Soviet winemaking school.

I tasted 25 wines, including NR and Cru Lermont ranges, as well as sparkling and fortified wines. I left out aromatised wines since I have little experience with them, as well as fortified dessert wines which are probably of little interest outside Russia though I found them balanced and attractive. As far as the dry wines are concerned, I found them generally very appealing. These are technically well made wines which preserve varietal characteristics. The style can be described as European — with good freshness, food-friendly and, what I particularly liked, with good length. These wines are similar in quality to those sold for 5-10 euros retail in Europe. In Russia they offer better value than imported wines positioned in 150-300 roubles price bracket.

NR (or Limited Reserve) range was revamped in 2007. These are varietal wines — dry white Aligote, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, off-dry rose Cabernet, dry red Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Saperavi, Tsimliansky Chiorny and four sweet fortified red wines. Retail price is 140 — 200 roubles.

The top range Cru Lermont was launched with Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 vintage, then Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot were added. The most recent novelty is Pinot Noir.

Below are my tasting notes. Wines that I liked most are marked in bold.

Madame Pompadour Brut
Dry sparkling wine, Charmat method. Aligote, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc and some Pinot Noir. Brilliant yellow colour with green reflets. Small, persistent bubbles, many threads. Sweet nutty-biscuity nose. Palate is fresh, creamy, white fruit, with nutty and light caramel nuances. Finish is full. Done in a clean style. Alternative to Cava. Like the creaminess and approachability. 84

Blanc de Noirs
Semisweet sparkling wine, Charmat method. Pinot Noir. Bottled a day before the tasting. First distinction is colour which is much deeper. Soft mousse, persistent bubbles. Soft wild strawberries on the nose. Palate is fruity, wild strawberries, more weighty, vinous, richer. Finish on yellow fruit, minerals and sugary sweetness. For desserts with fruit. I would more prefer a dry style. 85

NR Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Brilliant yellow colour. I was disturbed by petrolly notes, Good freshness, fatty, white currants, leafy, as well as yellow fruit. Staying finish. 84

NR Aligote 2008
27-year-old vines. Clean, restrained, soft aromas, yellow citruses and fruit. Palate is soft, supple, creamy, balanced, citruses and yellow fruit, soft acidity. Very drinkable. Finish is with soft spice, minerally. 86

NR Chardonnay 2008
Aromas of apples and lemons and a dubious tone that renders them not entirely clean. Palate is full, apples and tropical fruit, especially pineapple, spicy nuances. Finish is full, staying. 85

NR Cabernet Rose 2008
15 g/l sugar. Pure red berries and red fruit on the nose. Palate is fresh, a good balance between sweetness and acidity, clean red fruit. Medium finish. Favourably compares with the Loire roses. 85

NR Merlot 2008
The wine always has malolactic fermentation, aging in contact with wooden chips. Brilliant cherry colour. Medium plummy nose. Palate is fresh, polished, red fruit, mid-weight. 85

NR Tsimliansky Chiorny 2007
An original Russian variety. Aromas of sloe and smoke, medium intensity. Palate is fresh, lively acidity, grooved tannic texture, sloe and cherry. Finish is velvety, staying, spicy. Tsimliansky Chiorny reminds me of some Italian varieties because of lively acidity and protruding tannins. “John Worontschak likes to compare it to Barbera”, said Valentina Popandopulo. 86

NR Saperavi 2007
Linear aromas of black fruit and tar, medium intensity. Palate is simplistic, fresh, drinkable, high acidity, red and black fruit. Finish is tannic, slightly woody. A simple wine that loses out to good Georgian counterparts. 84

NR Saperavi 2008
More lifted aromas, floral, fruity, woody. Fresh palate, high acidity, red and black fruit with light bitterness. Fruit and spice in the finish, with oaky presence. More attractive than previous. 85

NR Cabernet 2007
Medium intensity aromas. Palate is sweetish, bitter chocolate, balanced, mid weight. Spicy, mid-length finish. 85

NR Cabernet 2008
Bellpepper nuances above red currant nose. Palate is fresh, redcurranty, less chocolaty, nice mineral finish. 86

Cru Lermont Sauvignon 2007
Open nose of white currants. Palate is fresh, lively, white currants, citruses and yellow fruit, good minerality. Full, soft, mineral finish. An attractive wine. 86

Cru Lermont Sauvignon 2008
Aromas are more intense, with more pronounced citruses and yellow fruit. Palate is fresh, intense, richer than previous. Persistent finish. Among the best Fanagoria wines. I prefer younger vintages. 87

Cru Lermont Chardonnay 2008
Rather deep aromas, white peaches. Fresh, balanced on the palate, good depth, creamy texture, apples, citruses and yellow fruit. Soft, long, apple-and-spices finish. 87

Cru Lermont Pinot Noir 2007
Aging in French barrels. Good depth and integration between cherry and woody aromas. Very Pinot, with its typical bouquet and elegance. Creamy texture. Frankly, didn’t expect to find such a good result. Full, staying, slightly salty finish. 87

Cru Lermont Merlot 2007
Cherries and plums, soft, silky palate with good fruit and balanced acidity. Spicy finish with a good length. 86

Cru Lermont Merlot 2008
Black-violet colour. Rich, intense, ripe aromas of sweet black fruit. Palate of medium intensity, chocolaty, velvety, very ripe fruit. Full, staying finish. 87

Cru Lermont Cabernet 2006
Evolved red fruit aromas, cigar box nuances. Palate is fresh, cassis, a hole in mid-palate, the finish is full, drying, perhaps needs more elegance. 85

Cru Lermont Cabernet 2007
Restrained aromas, mid depth, blackcurranty and leafy notes. Palate is fresh, currant, velvety tannins, medium body, persistent, full finish. 86

Cru Lermont Cabernet 2008
Cassis-y, chocolaty, leafy aromas. Elegant. The palate is all cassis and chocolate, coating velvety tannins. Nice length. 87