Reviews

Russian series: Chateau Le Grand Vostock
November 2009

I remember well the launch of Chateau Le Grand Vostock in Moscow.

It was in the Balchug Hotel in October 2004 when the company management presented a project, unheard of in Russia, to produce premium wines with the involvement of French winemakers. The first wines were offered for tasting, too. They were indeed a new breakthrough in quality for this country’s winemaking. I reported it in detail on my website and also wrote a news piece for the British decanter.com. Although Decanter editors highlighted the French aspect of the estate, it would have been more correct to write ‘Russo-French project’ as both the owners and the investment came from Russia, whilst the French provided only the winemaking expertise. Yet, the name of the estate and foreign aspect of the labels helped Chateau Le Grand Vostock gain additional credibility on the local market, which for well known reasons is weary of the quality of local wines.

Five years have passed, a considerable period by Russian standards, during which time Chateau Le Grand Vostock has proved its serious, long term intent for the business. Things haven’t always gone smoothly. “The wine industry has been continuously turbulent since 2003, when the project started. This was caused by never ending changes in legislation which introduced tougher control over production and distribution; obligatory purchase of equipment superfluous for production (counters, EGAIS); new excise stamps which were always in short supply. All in all, it was a nonstop crisis. This is the reality in which our company, as well as the Russian winemaking sector in general, has had to develop”, says the CFO and member of the board Elena Denisova.

However, the ban of Georgian and Moldovan wines in 2006 provided an unexpected impetus for the production of Russian wines, including those of Chateau Le Grand Vostock. “Our wine had a chance to be recognised more quickly in the target market segment. Consumers who drank decent Georgian and Moldovan wines for 150-500 roubles [1 euro is currently 43.1 roubles] in retail, largely switched over to Chateau Le Grand Vostock. Our sales were one and a half times higher than planned in 2006”, continues Denisova.

In 2008 sales reached 520,000 bottles at an average price of 6,5 USD, despite the plunge in the peak season (October-December) because of the crisis. This is a triple increase by volume and even higher by value compared to 2005 when the average bottle price was a dollar cheaper. “While sales were consistently going up, existing stocks ensured that we had a continuous supply of wine for the 2007/2008 season. At present our sales almost equal production. Around 700,000 bottles are cellared in the winery each year”, comments the Chief Financial Officer.

But it is not only about increasing sales. Elena Denisova believes that the greatest achievement of Chateau Le Grand Vostock is in changing the customer perception that Russian wine can be of high quality and can be sold for more than 150 roubles. Before the project was launched, locally made wines were sold only at entry level price points, below 100 roubles. Issues of quality or prestige were not on the producers’ agendas.

The crisis that unfolded last autumn gave the company a new chance to expand its market share. “Many consumers replaced inexpensive imported wines with ‘expensive’ Russian ones, so at present our sales are 15% higher than in the same period last year”, says Elena Denisova. Nonetheless, the management admits that wine is not part of the staple diet. Its consumption in recession falls, and the company constantly has to invent new promotional tools in order to protect sales volumes. Now and in the near future Chateau Le Grand Vostock will undertake new efforts to enter wines in HoReCa segment. Other plans for 2010 include finishing construction of the second winemaking facility and planting a new vineyard.

Chateau Le Grand Vostock is situated in the Krymsk district in Krasnodar region, 50 kilometres from the Black Sea. At the start of the project 500 hectares of existing vineyards were chosen, but the company has also been investing in planting new plots. Severe frosts of 2006 when the temperature in February dipped down to minus 28 degrees for two weeks devastated many vineyards in the region. Two hundred hectares were wiped out in Chateau Le Grand Vostock — luckily, those were old or weak vines, according to the estate. In 2008 productive vineyards accounted for 200 hectares, of which 57 were new high density plantings (5,500 plants per hectare). Another 86 hectares, also with a high density of 5,500 plants per hectare, will be bearing fruit in the near future.

Owning nearly 1,500 hectares of land, the company plans further vineyard expansion. Total vineyard area, though, will not exceed internal production needs. The cellar’s maximum capacity is 1,2 mln. bottles per year.

Average yields in 2008 were 3 tonnes per hectare, and 600 tonnes of grapes were harvested last year.

Classical European varieties are grown — Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and others, and also Saperavi and Russian autochthonous Krasnostop and Goloubok.

The winery was built in 2003 in time for the debut vintage. It was designed by well known French architect Philippe Mazieres who designed the famous Spanish bodega Vina Real in Rioja and Domaine des Collines in Bordeaux, among other winemaking facilities.

Chateau Le Grand Vostock was the first winery in post-Soviet Russia to introduce a concept of a traditional European estate, where grapes come from their own vineyards and all production processes, from vinification to aging and bottling, are done on the premises.

Another important fact is that winegrowing and winemaking are managed by French specialists who have been working in Chateau Le Grand Vostock since the very beginning. This is a married couple — general manager Frank Duseigneur, with previous experience in Bordeaux (Chateau Palmer, Chateau Faugeres) and the Rhone Valley (La Cave de Canteperdrix) and his wife Gael Bruellon who is responsible for checking the harvest maturity and for laboratory analysis of the wines.

Chateau Le Grand Vostock strategy is based on producing wines in medium and high price categories. There are five ranges of dry wines — Terres du Sud, Selection, Cadet Karsov, Cuvee Karsov and La Chene Royal, priced between 199 and 839 roubles. A separate specialty is a late harvest white dessert wine Fagotine made with Pinot Gris.

White wines come in Burgundy-shaped bottles, whilst reds are presented in Bordeaux-type bottles. The labels are written in French, their Russian origin is revealed solely through a phrase “Made in Russia”. I like back labels which are informative and, thanks to a map, give an idea the estate’s location. An important detail — good quality corks are used for all wines irrespective of price. The corks feature the company logo — “Chateau Le Grand Vostock — Depuis 2003”.

I tasted dry wines of various vintages. The tasting notes are below. Wines which I liked most are marked in bold.

Chateau Le Grand Vostock Terres du Sud 2005
13% alc. 60% Aligote, 40% Pinot Blanc. Medium price category — 199 roubles per bottle. Brilliant yellow straw colour. Open, slightly warm aromas of almonds, citruses, white peaches and alpine meadow, with spicy highlights. Palate is fresh, clean, fruit, well defined yellow fruit and citruses. Also evolved notes of honey, petrol and earth. Wine is kept alive thanks to good acidity, but it is past its peak of fruit expressiveness. Mid-length finish, almonds and bitter honey. Drink now. 84

Chateau Le Grand Vostock Selection Pinot Aligote 2004
13% alc. 60% Pinot (Gris and Blanc), 30% Aligote, 10% Chardonnay. Upper-medium price category — 229 roubles per bottle. Brilliant yellow straw colour. Full, open, slightly warm aromas of white stone fruit. Elegant palate, with nice freshness, well defined white and yellow fruit, soft spice and minerality and bitter honey in the background. Persistent finish, with notes of fruit and minerals. Definitely good value for a 5-year-old wine. 87

Chateau Le Grand Vostock Cadet Karsov 2007
13,5% alc. 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Chardonnay. Upper-medium price category — 255 roubles per bottle. Brilliant yellow straw colour. Ripe, open, fresh fruity aromas, where apples, white currants, lemons and grapefruit are mixed. Palate is fresh, clean, lively yet soft, white currants, peaches, spice and soft vanilla. Full finish, with fruity, vanilla and mineral nuances. A well made, attractive wine. 86

Chateau Le Grand Vostock Cuvee Karsov 2004
13,5% alc. 60% Chardonnay, 40% Sauvignon Blanc. Premium price range — 422 roubles per bottle. Brilliant light golden colour. Fresh aromas of blossoming lime trees, also notes of citruses and white currants, with woody highlights. Elegant, soft, fresh, balanced palate, with good depth, layers of fruity, citrusy, woody and honeyed aromas. Lengthy finish of white currants, peaches and softly embedded woody notes. 87

Chateau Le Grand Vostock Le Chene Royal 2007
13,5% alc. 100% Chardonnay. Premium price range — 804 roubles per bottle. Brilliant yellow straw colour. Aromas with good depth, dominated by oak and vanilla. Palate is fresh, elegant, good acidity, citrus notes mixed with cream and vanilla imparted by barrels. I find the influence of the latter too strong, they overshadow natural characteristics of the grapes. A New World type of Chardonnay. Finish persistent, vanilla and spices with mineral hints. It would be good to taste a wine with same grapes but less oak. 87-

Chateau Le Grand Vostock Terres du Sud 2007
13% alc. 50% Krasnostop, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 10% Goloubok. Vinification in stainless steel tanks. Medium price category — 199 roubles per bottle. Intense cherry colour. Fresh, open, slightly warm aromas of ripe red and dark fruit and soft spice. Palate is fresh, balanced, easy drinking, fruit dominate — strawberries, cherries, blueberries and other berries, bright coffee notes in the finish. A straightforward wine with an original Russian twist for a fair price. 85

Chateau Le Grand Vostock Selection Cabernet Saperavi 2008
13% alc. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Saperavi. Upper-medium price category — 229 roubles per bottle. Vinification in stainless steel tanks. Intense ruby-cherry colour. Open nose, fruity-vegetal, red currants, pomegranate fruit and skins. Palate is fresh, high acidity, juicy red and black fruit, soft spice and coffee, intense tannins. Coffee and spices in the finish. Linear, quite rustic but fruity wine. 83

Chateau Le Grand Vostock Cadet Carsov 2004
13% alc.80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Upper-medium price category — 266 roubles per bottle. Limpid, polished garnet testifying of evolution. Fresh, elegant, lifted aromas of ripe cherries, currants and a nice menthol and balsamic note in the depth. Palate is fresh, acidity provided good vivacity, medium weight, cherries, plums, currants and dried fruit, as well as light notes of bitter chocolate, coffee and minerals, nice velvety texture. Warm, persistent coffee finish. 87

Chateau Le Grand Vostock Cuvee Karsov 2007
14% alc. 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Krasnostop. Premium price range — 439 roubles per bottle. Dark cherry colour. Attractive, open aromas of fruit and flowers, lovely violets, cassis and soft oak. Palate is fresh, medium weight, clean red and black fruit, velvety tannins, soft spice, coffee and minerals. Excellent balance, rather appealing. Palate is staying, coffee and chocolate with final notes of toasty oak. Drinking well now and has potential for at least another 5 years. In a blind tasting I would say this is a good Spanish wine. 88

Chateau Le Grand Vostock Chene Royal 2007
14% alc. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Krasnostop. Premium price range — 839 roubles per bottle. Dark cherry colour. Generous aromas of ripe black fruit in a floral frame. Fresh palate, with good intensity and balance, ripe black fruit dominate, complemented by spices, coffee, bitter chocolate and toasty oak. Ripe tannins. Bright, persistent finish with fruit and coffee. Wine with a strong character, more ‘masculine’ if compared to Cuvee Karsov. 88