Reviews

Saffredi: twenty years later
«Enoteka» №75 February-March 2010

Italian Saffredi recently celebrated an important anniversary.

With 2006 vintage, now released on the market, this famed supertuscan made by Le Pupille marked its twentieth year of production. Saffredi is a classical example of the supertuscan category; it also symbolically represents the winemaking career of its owner Elisabetta Geppetti. To celebrate “an important date in the life of the woman and the wine”, Geppetti organised a complete vertical tasting of Saffredi.

As it often happens in the world of wine, Saffredi was born by chance. In 1984, when young Elisabetta was helping her father-in-law Alfredo in the vineyards and couldn’t even imagine that she would have to take charge of Le Pupille the year after, the winery’s consultant Giacomo Tachis (great Italian enologist of Sassicaia fame) grafted young cuttings of Cabernet Sauvignon on old Sangiovese vines. The wine from a tiny one hectare plot was so different, that Tachis and Geppetti decided to bottle it separately in 1987. Thus Saffredi was born, named after Elisabetta’s father-in-law who was her wine mentor and who sadly passed away too early.

Four initial vintages (1987-1990) were made solely with Cabernet. In the meantime, Merlot and Alicante were planted next to Cabernet Sauvignon in 1987. They became an invariable part of the blend starting from 1991. The Cabernet plot was re-planted in 1995, and another hectare of Merlot was added in 1997. Syrah was introduced to the blend in 2005 — the vines had been planted a while ago but had not been previously used for Saffredi.

Today the eponymous plot covers 4 hectares in Maremma, in a place called Pereta, and it offers a distant view of the sea in good weather. The vineyard lies on a slope at the altitude of 280 metres, and the sea is just 20 km away, if measured in a straight line. Poor soils are mostly calcareous, and the vineyard looks south-east and north-east (the sun is too strong at the southern exposition). The vines are planted at the density of 4,000 plants per hectare, using the training system of cordone speronato, with average yields at 3,5-4 tonnes per hectare. Grapes are harvested by hand from mid-September to mid-October and then are transported to the winer built in 2001. Traditional vinification is employed: the must ferments in temperature controlled steel tanks, then wine is aged in French oak barrels for 15-18 months and bottled unfiltered.

Until 1996 Saffredi was made with the guiding hand of Giacomo Tachis. As mentioned earlier, initially Tachis used only Cabernet Sauvignon, and then started to make a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Alicante since 1991. The share of Merlot and Alicante gradually increased and reached 37% in 1995 (Tachis’ last vintage). Wine wasn’t produced in 1996 due to the transition from one consultant to another. Further three vintages were made by another highly reputable Tuscan enologist Riccardo Cotarella. He used 55/30/15 formula, or 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 15% Alicante. In 2000 French consultant Christian Le Sommer, formerly a Chateau Latour winemaker, was hired and is still in charge today. From the 2005 vintage onward, Le Sommer reduced the share of rustic Alicante, having partially replaced it with Syrah.

Therefore, Saffredi history can be conditionally divided into three periods which reflect the employment of three consultants. The vertical tasting was a remarkable retrospective which highlighted how a winemaker can fundamentally influence a wine’s style. Saffredi vintages made by Giacomo Tachis were heterogeneous, reaching their ultimate height in 1995. Riccardo Cotarella applied his powerful yet polished style, having created one of the most memorable wines in 1999. Saffredi by Christian Le Sommer are graced with elegance, which appears to be a better reflection of the vineyard’s character. The vines are now enjoying a stage of good maturity which also helps the winemaker to get the best out of them.

The tasting took place at Le Pupille. Vintage descriptions were provided by the winery.

1987
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 13% alc.
Prevalently regular weather: temperatures were within the norm with some springtime showers. The summer, on the other hand, was hot and dry. The harvest was carried out in the first week of October. 4,000 bottles produced.
Dark cherry-red. Wide flow of mature aromas, intense and warm red fruit, leather and underbrush. Later the focus moves to savoury and dark fruit notes. Full and expressive on the palate, with excellent balance. Again, there is a line of red fruit, underbrush and savoury notes, complemented by spice. Full finish, highlighted by a light spiciness of cinnamon sticks. The wine is still in excellent shape. 89

1988
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 13% alc.
Fattoria Le Pupille remembers 1988 a positive year: hot, almost always sunny and dry. August, as usual, was characterised by its very high but overall within the norm temperatures, the winds helped considerably with the temperature range. The harvest was carried out in the first week of October. 4,200 bottles produced.
Even deeper cherry-red. Eucalyptus, herbs and minerals in the foreground, along with dominating red fruit and underbrush. Aromas are not as powerful as in 1987, and more elegant. The palate is lighter, although the fruit are still concentrated. These are red fruit, notably redcurrants, mixed with bright eucalyptus. Slightly dry tannins and lively acidity, freshness and elegance. Medium finish. 88

1989
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 13% alc.
The weather of 1989 was characterized by a very dry and hot summer. The rains only came to quench the vines in late September giving a chance for the vegetation to recuperate permitting a good maturing of the tannins. The harvest was carried out in the first week of October. 4,600 bottles produced. Only 7 bottles are left in the winery.
Dark cherry-red. Appetising and intense, the nose shows meaty, balsamic and underbrush notes. Powerful and exuberant flavours, speaking of a hot vintage. Dense red and black fruit and balsamic notes. Rich, staying finish. A genuine tour de force. 93

1990
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 13% alc.
Little summer rain and much sun in 1990, which saw a great year at the start of the last decade of the 20th century. The harvest was carried out in the last week of September. 5,000 bottles produced.
Dark cherry-red with garnet rim. Open, expressive aromas of dark fruit, cedar and meat reduction. The palate is mature but remains fresh, full and integrated. Black currants and prunes dominate, underlined by soft spice and balsamic tones. Grippy tannins. Lifted finish with good volume. 92

1991
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Alicante. 12,5% alc.
In 1991 there was a cool spring even in the Maremma which was followed by a hot and dry summer with higher temperatures than average and which did not lower until the end of August. It was only in September that the sun allowed the respite needed for maturing that proved good despite all. The harvest was carried out between 15 September and 10 October. 6,800 bottles produced.
Dark cherry with a wide red rim. Restrained nose of red fruit and eucalyptus, but warm through alcohol. This is a medium-bodied, fresh example styled in a manner of wines from cooler regions. Red fruit, notably red currants and plums, are not intense enough to support protruding tannins. Finishes on a lifted note. Best drunk soon. 87

1992
78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 5% Alicante. 12% alc.
The weather in 1992 was characterised by a normal spring that was a bit damp in the month of June. Despite these premises the summer was, as usual, very hot and dry. The rain began to fall only at the beginning of October, slightly delaying the maturing of the grapes. The harvest was carried out between 12 September and 15 October. 8,000 bottles produced.
Dark cherry. The nose, built on red fruit, prunes and eucalyptus, appears diluted. The palate is fresh and medium bodied, with rather sweet dark fruit. Chunky tannins deprive the wine of elegance. Linear finish. 86

1993
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 7% Alicante. 13% alc.
1993 was a normal year: sunny springtime with only a few downpours, a hot but, above all, stable summer. The harvest was carried out between 18 September and 12 October. 9,500 bottles produced.
Cherry colour. Pungent farmyard aromas; red fruit on the palate are marred by musty, earthy notes of cellar. Lively acidity and light structure. Aftertaste quickly disappears. Suspect this is not the best bottle to show the vintage. 85

1994
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 8% Alicante. 13% alc.
The weather tendencies of 1994 were regular: a sunny spring with a bit of rain, a hot and well ventilated summer that brought the grapes to perfect maturity. The first rains came after the end of the harvest. The harvest was carried out between 10 September and 6 October. 12,000 bottles produced.
Dark cherry. Bright, savoury aromas with leather nuances. The wine is medium-bodied but may seem denser thanks to good concentration of fruit, dried fruit and spices. Could leave a better impression if tannins were more polished. The finish is medium, with a touch of chocolate. 86-87

1995
63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 12% Alicante. 13,5% alc.
1995 was not very hot: in fact, spring was late in coming as was the summer with a fluctuating temperature that was never very high. September was more benign and the weather awarded a harvest in excellent condition. The harvest was carried out between 20 September and 12 October. 15,000 bottles produced.
Dark cherry. Wonderfully evolved nose, with red fruit, earthy and animal notes. This seductive, elegant and harmonious wine displays nuances of strawberries and red fruit and boasts silky tannins. Sensual and staying finish with good volume. 93

1997
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Alicante. 13,5% alc.
The 1997 spring was already in full swing when in mid-April a sudden cooling of the temperature brought the winter back. The temperature began gradually to increase in May and the summer months were characterised by a hot and dry climate. The harvest was carried out between 10 September and 6 October. 19,000 bottles produced.
Cherry-ruby. Modern in style: polished aromas, deep dark fruit, cedar and pencil shavings. The palate is rather elegant and stays fresh thanks to good level of acidity. Unmistakable Cabernet profile, but with Maremma flair. Sweet black currants and cedar are intertwined with balsamic notes. Full, persistent finish. Still youthful with a long life ahead. 93

1998
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Alicante. 13,5% alc.
The winter of 1998 was damp but not particularly cold, the springtime was cool. Summer was sunny and rainless with a regular weather during harvest. The harvest was carried out between 10 September and 10 October. 20,000 bottles produced.
Cherry-ruby. The nose is clean and polished, but not very expressive, featuring red and dark fruit. Fresh and easy to drink, this is a lighter style than previous. Tannins still need to come round. Medium length. 89

1999
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Alicante. 13,5% alc.
In contrast to 1998, 1999 began with a cold winter whilst the spring was mild and sunny. The summer that followed was hot and rainless with a few downpours at the end of September whose damp weather favoured a good but not excellent maturity of Cabernet Sauvignon. The harvest was carried out between 12 September and 5 October. 18,000 bottles produced.
Dark cherry. Introvert, tightly woven aromas open up very reluctantly, but they have a great inner force. The palate is balanced and well polished, there is a solid structure and great depth. Sweet, ripe fruit are supported by coating tannins. Among the most remarkable Saffredi vintages. 92+

2000
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Alicante. 14% alc.
The winter of 2000 gave the Maremma higher than normal temperatures and even the springtime was sunny. The summer and the harvest period were also favoured by the sun ad high temperature: therefore, excellent conditions that give the grapes a homogeneous if a little early maturity. The harvest was carried out between 4 and 30 September. 20,000 bottles produced.
Black-cherry. Open, playing, perfumed aromas of roses, plums and red fruit make this wine particularly attractive. The palate is silky and supple, but evolving fast. Nuances of dried fruit are present along with fresh red fruit. This mid-weight Saffredi is wonderfully charming thanks to its lifted and nuanced flavours, although its discreet tannic structure may not be well suited for long life. Full, staying finish. 90

2001
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Alicante. 13,5% alc.
The winter between 2000 and 2001 was characterised by mild temperatures. The only moment of suspense was in mid-April when a frost brought panic to the vineyards. The flowering began in mid-May for the Merlot and ended in the last week of May for the Cabernet Sauvignon. Summer was regular through to the late autumn. The harvest was carried out between 16 September and 12 October. 23,000 bottles produced.
Ruby-cherry. Focused, elegant nose, still very youthful, combines red fruit, new oak, cedar and eucalyptus. The palate is styled like a good claret. It is fresh, tight and well-structured, with ripe red and black fruit. Crushed-stone minerality lingers in a long finish. One of the greatest vintages for Saffredi. The wine needs another five years to be fully developed. 94

2002
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Alicante. 13,5% alc.
The beginning of the vegetative cycle in 2002 was both early and positive despite the alternating periods of hot and cold. In mid-July the situation was very promising and the colouring homogeneous. Then, at the end of the month, the summer became relatively more cloudy although the ever present Maremma wine blew the clouds away before the rain. The first rain appeared only in late October making the 2002 harvest, in contrast to many other areas, a year to remember. The harvest was carried out between 18 September and 12 October. 21,000 bottles produced.
Ruby-cherry. Fluid, plumy nose. The palate is fresh and of medium concentration, with ripe fruit and balsamic notes, but it lacks drive. Grippy tannins last through the finish. 88

2003
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 10% Alicante. 14% alc.
After a rainy winter, the spring of 2003 was good, and the vegetation developed well. Summer, which arrived at the end of May, was quite hot, with reduced day-night temperature excursions. Only the maturity of the vineyard, coupled with careful canopy and bunch management, and the few drops of rain that fell in early September, made it possible to obtain a quality harvest. The Merlot was harvested at the beginning of September, and the Cabernet Sauvignon at the end. 23,000 bottles produced.
Ruby-purple. Polished, creamy aromas of fresh red berries. New World-like flavours with forthright fruit and generous spice, dry tannins. Finishes on warm notes of coffee and fruit. Drink now. 88

2004
45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 10% Alicante. 14% alc.
The 2003-2004 winter was cold and wet, but the spring was average, and followed by a hot summer with optimal day-night temperature excursions. Thanks to the three brief night-time thunderstorms we had in July and mid-August the grapes developed steadily, leading to an excellent harvest that produced exemplary wines of great elegance and minerality. The harvest ended October 5. 25,000 bottles produced.
Dark ruby. Reticent nose, but nuances of red fruit and herbs emerge from great depth. The palate is tight, showing superb structure and balance. Black fruit are mixed with balsamic and eucalyptus notes. Fine, yet firm tannins. Great volume in the finish. For me this wine most accurately reflects the essence of the Saffredi vineyard. 93+

2005
45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 3% Alicante, 7% Syrah. 14% alc.
The spring was within the norm, with normal vegetative development. The summer that followed was hot, with good day-night temperature excursions. Between the end of August and mid-September there were brief rains, and the weather was unusually humid. The conditions favoured only those vineyards located on hillsides, and winemakers experts in leaf canopy management. After mid-September the weather improved, allowing the grapes to ripen well. The harvest was carried out between 12 September and 1 October. 24,000 bottles produced.
Dark ruby. Deep, perfumed, still primary aromas of red fruit. The palate is also quite youthful, with succulent red currents and peppery spiciness. Firm tannins are built in a good structure. Full, chocolatey finish. 90+

2006
45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 3% Alicante, 7% Syrah. 14% alc.
Though the spring was average, summer came late, with the first days of full sunlight in June; from then on the summer was quite sunny. At the beginning of September night-time temperatures dropped sharply, slowing the ripening but favouring the accumulation of tannins in the skins, which were as a result especially rich in this vintage. No weather-related problems during the harvest. The harvest was carried out between 10 September and 5 October. 23,000 bottles produced.
Dark ruby. The perfumed nose is reminiscent of various red fruit seasoned with ground black pepper. The palate still needs to harmonise between its dark fruit, new oak and discerning tannins. Yet, this is a new and promising energizing style which, like the previous vintage, benefits from the presence of Syrah. 92+