Reviews

Chianti Classico Collection 2010
«Vinnaya Karta» №4(112) June-July 2010

Annual tasting in Florence brought together Chianti Classico producers, journalists and trade for the seventeenth time.

As usual, new Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva wines, soon to be released, were at the centre stage. People also discussed several significant latest developments in the region.

The latest news is that grapes from Chianti Classico vineyards can now be used only for production of eponymous wines. If before Chianti Classico producers could ‘declassify’ their harvest to Chianti, which uses more liberal production rules, soon the loose hole will be closed. Changes to 164/92 law on Italian winemaking will soon take place, to confirm exclusive use of Chianti Classico grapes for regional wines.

“After 78 years a solution was finally found that effectively separates Chianti Classico from Chianti, definitely cutting an umbilical cord between two distinct wines without getting into legal battles or making unilateral decisions but, instead with a reciprocal awareness of their differences and originalities. A fact that can definitely be called historic”, says Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico director Giuseppe Liberatore.

The step continues a series of latest initiatives aimed to differentiate Chianti Classico wines with their rich heritage and higher quality level from Chianti. The consortium is working on returning historic greatness to Chianti Classico wines that was acknowledged three centuries ago in the 1716 edict signed by Duke of Tuscany Cosimo III.

Creating a network of agents to investigate wine quality in retail outlets is another breaking initiative. Undisclosed inspectors will make sure that Chianti Classico wines in supermarkets, food shops and wine boutiques conform to production regulations. Chianti Classico agents will work throughout Italy. Unlike in formal inspections, their work is coordinated by Central inspectorate for quality protection and fraud repression. Inspectors will have a status of public security agents and will receive proper badges.

The measure will enhance traceability of Chianti Classico production and distribution system introduced several years ago. All bottles after 2004 have individual serial numbers. Consumers can use them to obtain detailed information on wine through internet or a text message.

Meanwhile, the Consortium launched new Chianti Classico Lifestyle merchandise in order to enhance Black Rooster brand among consumers. The range consists of 66 items including glasses, corkscrews, aprons, T-shirts, sportswear, stationery, gift sets and others. An internet-shop was set up last year, and now online shopping is available in 16 countries, including USA, Brazil, Japan and Australia. In Italy Chianti Classico Lifestyle merchandise can be found in 60 shops in Florence, Siena and the region, as well as in Florence and Pisa airports. Aprons are current bestsellers in the range.

“There is a common denominator for all Chianti Classico products and indubitably it is quality. We’ve carefully vetted out our suppliers to ensure the highest level of quality for all our products”, comments head of marketing and communication Silvia Fiorentini.

Another 15 items are being tested and will be added to Chianti Classico Lifestyle after final approvals.

Although Consortium president Marco Pallanti promised to mention crisis as little as possible during the event, difficult international situation couldn’t but affect Chianti Classico in the past months.

It was reported earlier that the consortium introduced an innovative for Italian wine sector stabilization measure by temporarily blocking 20% of Chianti Classico 2009 until favourable times This costly measure is fully sustainable thanks to support from banks which are giving liquidity to the Chianti Classico “system”.

Chianti Classico sales dropped by 15% in comparison with the previous year. They shrank in USA where the share of total Chianti Classico sales decreased from 29% to 27%. Nonetheless, the market remains the most important. USA sells more Chianti Classico than Italy where 25% of sales share was attributed last year (2% less than in 2008). Sales to Russia also decreased: in 2008 they accounted for a record 3% share, while in 2009 they dropped to 2%, thus returning to the 2007 level. Germany, Canada and smaller export markets classified as “Others” were more encouraging with increased sales in 2009.

The consortium is hopeful that the negative trend will be reversed this year, also thanks to the strength of regional agricultural status. Bottled wine brings the revenue of 360 mln. euros, olive oil — 10 mln. euros, other crops — 90 mln. euros, and farm holiday accommodations — 75 mln. euros a year.

While 2009 harvest continues the chain of good Tuscan vintages started in 2004, the wines of greatest interest at the tasting were Chianti Classico 2008 and Chianti Classico Riserva 2007, soon to be released.

After the harvest and initial vinification the consortium declared 2008 harvest “another great Classico”. The grapes ripened approximately 10 days later than usual due to cold spring temperature which moved the vegetative cycle. It is now evident that cooler weather in comparison with two previous hot years influenced flavour profiles. In general, Chianti Classico wines 2008 do not have such generous fruit as 2007 and 2006, but they keep a firm structure and excellent freshness. Fruit tend to be in the red spectrum — cherries, raspberries, strawberries, plums. These wines are likely to be less forthright and appealing than two previous vintages, but they will be a great accompaniment to food, as any good wine should be.

Chianti Classico Riserva is aged for at least 24 months, and 2007 is their current release. The year was relatively easy for winemakers as vines developed harmoniously. The nature was generous giving higher yields than in previous years. High sugar content that was transformed into higher alcohol level is a particular feature of 2007. Yet, as acidity was also higher than usual, and as fruit are normally more concentrated than in Chianti Classico, resulting wines are generally balanced, bright, well structured and have a further aging potential.