Travel

Journey to Eisenstadt
"Vkus" February 2006

I love going to Vienna. Its palaces, museums and parks create an atmosphere of solemn luxury that returns to the era of emperors, princes and grandees.

But aristocrats left not only monuments of architectural art. Vienna has her unmistakable chic which belongs only to this city. Yet the capital is not the sole place in Austria where I am ready to go back any time. Half an hour’s drive from Vienna brings to Eisenstadt. Its main attraction is an amazing mix of people, art and… wine.

By order of Austro-Hungarian aristocrats Esterhazy a splendid palace was built in Eisenstadt which became the residence of the ancient family. The building impresses by its scale, although only a third of it was constructed (original drawings had two side wings — an opera and a library). It stands on the hill, and the views open far beyond the town. Visitors are usually drawn by rich baroque decorations and the story of composer Franz Josef Haydn who was Esterhazy court musician for 45 years. But the palace has another point of attraction especially valued by wine lovers.

The Esterhazies were great wine connoisseurs. They had a large collection kept in the palace’s cellars and owned vineyards in Burgenland. A document is found in the archives proving that Esterhazy brought Pinot Noir vines from Burgundy in 1754 and started cultivating them in the estate. Other Burgundy varieties — Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc had been the point of the family’s pride since 17th century. Quality late harvested wines of spatlese and rare trockenbeerenauslese were popular at the imperial court, they were also exported to the neighbouring states.

Nowadays Schlossweingut Esterhazy — Esterhazy Palace Winery — continues traditions of the past. It owns 42 hectares of vineyards with red Pinot Noir, Merlot, Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch, Cabernet Sauvignon and white Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Welschriesling and Sauvignon Blanc. Vinification and aging are done in the palace’s historic cellars, but soon the production will move in the new winery equipped with the latest technology.

Esterhazy palace, though, will not lose its attraction for the lovers of wine. The palace houses a popular wine boutique where guests are greeted by the life model of Josef Haydn. The range is great, and the best offer is Schloss Esterhazy Premium wines with white labels.

The second and, perhaps, the more serious thing is the wine museum of Burgenland. It was opened in Esterhazy palace cellars nearly four years ago. A hundred and forty steps lead to the underground labyrinth where 1,200 square metres of space feature 750 objects connected with winemaking. The museum exposition is just as impressive as its figures. There is, for instance, a huge wine press from year 1629 — the oldest in Burgenland an, perhaps one of the oldest in Europe. There are clay amphoras dating back to 100 BC, blackened wooden barrels with a solid age of over hundred years and all sorts of winegrowing and winemaking instruments which were used in the past three centuries. The underground kitchen features a curious mechanism — 1888 lift that transported dishes up to the dining room.

Visit to the Esterhazy palace can be a full day event, but if you go to Eisenstadt, it is best to leave at least one hour for Romerhof estate — one of the best wine estates of Burgenland and Austria. Kollwentz family has been in winemaking since 1775. The basis of modern reputation was started by Anton Kollwentz 40 years ago. He has pioneered dry wine production in the region and was the first in Burgenland to commercially plant red Zweigelt and Cabernet Sauvignon. Andi Kollwentz ensures the top quality levels set by his father. It is now difficult to say what their specialism is — white, red or sweet wines. Not long ago Gault Millau gave top awards to Kollwentz wines in all threes categories — the only case in the history of the guide!

In Romerhof there are several historic sites known from the 16th century. The Kollwentzes prefer to name these wines after the vineyards. Gloria, Tatchler, Eichkogel, Point, Steinzeiler have their own, highly individual terroirs, and wines become the media of these unique features. Tatchler is a full, voluptuous Chardonnay. Point is refined power of Blaufrankisch. Eichkogel is a blend of sky lightness from Blaufrankisch and Zweigelt. Steinzeiler is the velvet and depth of Blaufrankisch, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zweigelt.

Fine vineyards and talented winemakers explain the fact that all Kollwentz wines can live for decades. At the blind tasting Andi asked to identify the age of a white wine. Bright light colour gave no hint of age, but the palate gave out appealing sweet petrolly notes which lightly surrounded the flavours of nettles and bonbons. Sauvignon Blanc maximum ten years old? It was Muller-Thurgau 1978 from Solligberg vineyard, an undistinguished German variety turned into a refined wine.

Finally, about the winery. It is a combination of stone of glass, traditions and modernity. Building of cellars first started 40 years ago — with sandstone from Roman quarries. In 2003 the last section was opened, and it nicely fitted a private wine library that is conditionally separated by glass walls. The Kollwentzes leave 500-700 bottles of each vintage for it, thus having gathered about 20,000 bottles already. The vinification facility is a former hay barn. On the upper level you see 12 shining stainless steel vats. My favourite plase is a tasting hall, a modern room of straight lines, white walls, transparent glass and abundance of light. The walls are decorated with displays of soils from the best vineyards. Their message is in the Kollwentz wines.