Travel

Austrian Baden: water and wine
«Magnum» №6-7(9) 2006

The Viennese have been lucky with mineral resorts.

The closest of them, fashionable Baden lies only 25 km away from the Austrian capital. Baden’s guests are attracted not only by healing waters. There are vineyards scattered around the town where exciting white and red wines are made.

The winemaking area to the south of Vienna is called Thermenregion — after numerous mineral springs where wealthy Austrians and foreigners come to improve health. Of all the resort towns Baden has long been known as the favourite holiday place of the Austrian imperial court. It meant that for several centuries the resort temporarily attracted best social and cultural life, it gathered influential aristocrats and artists. Since the 18th century Baden has had its theatre where they still play popular operettas. Mozart, Salieri and Ludwig van Beethoven lived there. The latter left 7 addresses in Baden. Max Reinhardt, founder of the modern Austrian and German theatre, was born here. Boris Pasternak was stationed in Baden as a Soviet cultural officer. International politicians also frequented Baden, sometimes deciding on the future of their countries. Participants of the historic Vienna congress of 1814-1815 that recreated the map of Europe after the Napoleonic wars, would promenade in the Baden park. In 1918 Emperor Carl of Habsburgs sent from the town a dispatch proclaiming acceptance of truce.

Nowadays the atmosphere of Baden is little changed. People come not only for health-improving sulphur springs, but for the good life. Imperial Biedermeier architecture that is featured in the best hotels and key buildings of the town calls to put on an evening dress and silk gloves for ladies and a dinner suit for gentlemen. And to walk like that in the charming historic centre and manicured resort park. And in the evenings to play in the famous Baden casino, the oldest establishment of the country and the largest in Europe. Or to dine in one of the fine restaurants of the town enjoying culinary delights of the Austrian chef and serious wines of Thermenregion.

It is not a secret anymore that they make excellent wines in Austria. International wine public knows well Gruner Veltliner, an Austrian speciality, and sweet nectars of Burgenland. But Austria also appeals because every winemaking area of the country has its own wines which are well worth telling about.

This is also true for Thermenregion. Do you know that next to Baden sits the most famous Austrian wine village — Gumpoldskirchen? No? Then it’s time to discover it. Gumpoldskirchen lands are called the Austrian Cote-d’Or referring to similar location of vineyards and composition of soils. There is a lot of truth in this phrase — maybe, even more than Burgundy winemakers would like to hear.

Along the road from Baden to Gumpoldskirchen and further to Modling there is a stretch of hills that reach 674 metres in the highest point. They prevent storms, cover vineyards from bad weather and attract clear sunny weather. Vines grow on rolling middle and steeper high slopes, vineyards are divided into small plots rieden, each one of them with its own name. The middle part of the slopes above Gumpoldskirchen is the most desirable place for vineyards.

External similarity with Burgundy landscape is not all. Behind it lie more meaningful symbols which unite Gumpoldskirchen and Cote-d’Or.

Complex geological processes turned the ancient ocean bottom into the land surface rich in lime and minerals. The soils mixed in a particular manner, having created a unique mosaic of terroirs. Do you imagine Burgundy? Now think of Thermenregion. The same process went on there. Gumpoldskirchen slopes are ideas for cultivating white grapes, and wines from neighbouring plots can have opposite characters.

Local historians say that viticulture existed in this area in pre-Christian times, but the first wines were made — like in Burgundy — by monks. Direct evidence can be found in Heiligenkreuzer Klosterweingut, a winery that was founded by the Cistercians in 1141 and that still belongs to the church.

Unlike Burgundy, in Gumpoldskirchen several white varieties are grown including Chardonnay, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Rulander (Pinot Gris), Riesling, Neuburger, Gruner Veltliner. Labels of the top wines usually bear the name of the vineyard, but there is no single practice. Grapes from different plots can be vinified separately or blended, wines can be released on the market young or with aging, for cellar aging inert materials or wooden barrels can be used. By Austrian law, categories of quality wines vary from kabinett to spatlese, auslese, BA, TBA and eiswein.

Although the main production comes from recognized European varieties, the jewels of the range are the wines from Zierfandler and Rotgipfler. Their total planted area is small — only about 200 hectares, but these two white varieties are not seen anywhere else — neither in other parts of Austria nor beyond. Old winemakers like to remember history — at the Paris exhibition of 1855 (the one that caused classification of Bordeaux vineyards) white wine from Gumpoldskirchen won the grand prix in the white wines category. A century later the Soviet leader Nikita Khruschev when meeting with the US president John Kennedy chose a bottle of Gumpoldskirchner 1957 Spatlese Rotgipfler for lunch. (Kennedy preferred the Bordeaux Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1953.) Modern generation of the winemakers doesn’t live by history, but aspires to keep two unique varieties and to make them signature grapes of the region.

Zierfandler’s flavour profile somewhat reminds of Riesling from Rheingau or Pfalz. Wines possess high lively acidity and intense fruit, in particular tropical, and are fit for aging. Rotgipfler also makes full-bodied wines, but they feel softer and their aromatic range — wider. Both varieties are capable of producing lovely sweet wines. According to Johann Stadlmann, one of the leading producers working with Rotgipfler and Zierfandler, the former ‘takes barrels well’, the latter — no. Yet there are different points of view on the issue. Winemakers age in wooden barrels both Rotgipfer and Zierfandler and often blend them together.

Surroundings change several kilometers south to Baden. Hills succumb to a plain, and stones appear in the soil. There are so many of them that there is a district in the southern Thermenregion called Steinfeld — ‘Stone field’. The land is still rich in limestone but it is well mixed alluvial soils. According to Johannes Reinisch, owner-winemaker of Johanneshof Reinisch, a leading winery in Tattendorf, “with proper cultivation these dry warm lands are an ideal place for Burgundy varieties — Chardonnay and Pinot Noir”, and for red grapes in general.

Red varieties are indeed a preferred choice in southern Thermenregion. Along with Pinot Noir and is Austrian ‘nephew’ Saint Laurent, the communes of Tattendorf, Teesdorf and Sooss produce a wide red range — Blauer Portugieser, Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and even Syrah plus blends.

Yet the Burgundy varieties shine best here. The monks brought Pinot Noir to the Thermenregion 600 years ago — and who would know better? Local examples show that winemakers have found a key to the capricious grape. Best wines such as Johanneshof Reinisch Grande Reserve Pinot Noir make you draw parallels with Burgundy. And if so, the ‘Austrian Cote-d’Or’ has a right for own recognition.

Harald Zierer
Harald Zierer’s vineyards are located in the classic Gumpoldskirchen zone. The backyard of his house opens a serene view on Schloss Gumpoldskirchen, the village and the vineyards. Ten hectares of the property are divided into 35 plots. Main specialization is white wines (Chardonnay, Riesling, Weissburgunder, Welschriesling, Rotgipfler, Zierfandler) plus some red production. Shy Harald Zierer believes that Rotgipfler is the best white variety in the area. He creates wines which finely reflect the character of each vineyard. The range of dry wines consists of 3 lines — Klassische, Select and Grande Reserve; with favourable conditions the winery also makes sweet wines. After a recent trip to Portugal Zierer created an experimental ‘port’ from Merlot, Zweigelt and Blauer Portugieser.
Special recommendation — Rotgipfler Grande Reserve 2000

Spaetrot-Gebeshuber
A young winemaking couple — Johannes and Johanna Gebeshuber — are proud of the unique Luegerkeller cellar in Gumpoldskirchen that was recently acquired by them. The cellar was build 100 years ago by the mayor of Vienna. It was for storing wines for government ceremonies and for receiving high guests. In 1961 Nikita Kkhruschev visited it. Now Luegerkeller is used for vinification and aging, part of the building is given for a curious museum of local winemaking (one of the objects is a Russian language armband of the post war times ‘official guard of the vineyards’). The Gebeshubers consider themselves specialists in Rotgipfler and Zierfandler and create all possible spectrum of wines (varietal and blends, in stainless steel and oak, dry and sweet). Gunter Pozdina, first Austrian sommelier and a valuable source of information about Gumpoldskirchen winemaking works in the company.
Special recommendation — Zierfandler/Rotgipfler TBA 2004

Freigut Thallern
The full name of this winery is Heiligenkreuzer Klosterweingut Freigut Thallern. One of the oldest in Austria, it was founded in 1141 by Cistercian monks and still belongs to the religious order. It is worth visiting Freigut Thallern for a unique chapel of the 16th century. On the altar a wooden statue of Christ is symbolically connected with fruit bearing vine. In the old times the chapel was a place for services dedicated to a successful harvest. Now the most popular event is a summer wine festival that takes place in the end of summer and gathers about 3,000 people during 3 days. Freigut Thallern produces quality white and red wines of Neuburger, Pinot Gris, Zierfandler, Pinot Noir, Saint Laurent and others. The focus is slowing changing from varietal wines to blends, and the managing winemaker of the estate dreams of having sparkling wines for which great medieval cellars are in place.
Special recommendation – Sauerhof Grand Cuvee 2003 (Cabernet Sauvignon, Zweigelt, Pinot Noir).

Johanneshof Reinisch
After Johannes Reinisch visited California and made serious reforms in his Tattendorf estate, he was nicknamed ‘Mondavi of the Thermenregion’. Johanneshof Reinisch winery interior is visitor-friendly. It features displays with geological maps, descriptions of varieties and a lot of other important winemaking information. The cellar for barrels is made with 19th century bricks and is open for viewing through special windows. The winery’s restaurant (heuriger) is open for guests for times a year. But first of all, Johanneshof Reinisch is known through the high class of its wines. The vineyards (32 ha) are located on several plots, varieties are planted according to the character of soils. Johannes Reinisch produces a wide range and considers wines from Burgundy varieties at the top of his creations. It is difficult to think otherwise after the tasting.
Special recommendations — Grande Reserve St Laurent 1999, Roter Eiswein Merlot 2004

Stadlmann
Johann Stadlmann’s winery in Traiskirchen has 200 years of history and 7 generations of winemakers. Being open for new ideas, Stadlmann experimented a lot but returned to traditional vinification. “You should concentrate on the topic of wines, not technologies Good wine is of feelings and stomach”, claims Johann and this topic is regular discussed between him and his son, a biochemical scientist. Grapes are planted on 12 hectares and some are bought in the neighbouring estates. Stadlmann’s main speciality is Zierfandler that turns into noble dry and sweet wines. They also work with Riesling, Weissburgunder, Rotgipfler, Zweigelt, Saint Laurent and Cabernet Sauvignon. Fruitiness is a typical feature of all Stadlmann’s wines.
Special recommendation — Mandel-Hoh Zierfandler 2004

The winemaking area of Thermenregion (‘The region of thermal waters’) is situated to the south of Vienna. The plantings occupy 2300 hectares. The climate is continental with hot dry summer and cold winter. Soils have complex geological composition and vary from well drained limestone to heavy stony loam. Two thirds are given for white varieties — Neuburger, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Gruner Veltliner, Chardonnay, Riesling and others. Thermenregion’s signature grapes are autochthonous Rotgipfler and Zierfandler. Of the red varieties Blauer Portugieser, Zweigelt, Saint Laurent, Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir) and others are grown. Leading winemaking communes are Gumpoldskirchen, Traiskirchen, Guntramsdorf, Perchtoldsdorf, Sooss, Tattendorf.