Travel

The Lower Austria: winemaking heights
«Vinnaya Karta» №9(79) October 2006

The Lower Austria is actually located in the top part of the country, but there is no catch.

Its lands lie lower at the sea level than those of southern Austria — hence the name. As for wine, the region has always been on the top thanks to famous winemaking areas of Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal.

Three smallest wine areas of the Lower Austria have built international reputaion not only for the whole region, but for the country. There are eight winemaking zones in the Lower Austria, excluding Vienna (vineyards of the capital take intermediary position — sometimes they are considered as part of the region, and sometimes are given a separate category). This part of the country is vital for winemaking industry as it gives over 60% of total production. Each part of the Lower Austria interesting in its own way, but Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal hold the strongest positions.

Wachau

The Austrian Wine Guide by Peter Moser, the most authoritative publication of the country, gives generous praise to Wachau winemakers and classifies quite a few as outstanding. The lovers of Austrian wines treat names of Prager, Emmerich Knoll, Franz Hirtzberger, Leo Alzinger, FX Pichler with the same respect like the lovers of Burgundy –Domaine Leflaive, Coche-Dury and alike. Terraced vineyards with dizzying view down on the Danube have several centuries of history, yet start to receive international acknowledgement only now. Wachau is a lucky combination of serious terroirs and winemakers. Wines, as consequence, are also extraordinary.

The winemaking region of Wachau is best seen from the Danube. Its steep slopes with cut terraces are declared by UNESCO as world heritage. They stretch along the northern banks of the river. Continental climate with cool afternoon winds is suitable for growing white varieties — Gruner Veltliner and Riesling. Winemakers here were the first in Austria to realise that their unique offer for the market must be based on quality, not quantity. In 1983 the majority united in Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus association. Today it counts over 200 estates. Their main goal stayed the same in the past twenty years — to protect the origin of wine and follow strict quality principles. “We sell not the beauty of the place, but the authenticity of our products”, says Emmerich Knoll junior of the renowned Knoll estate.

This year the association accepted a formal quality charter Codex Wachau which included ideas that were for years practiced by its members. “The Codex does not change our philosophy, but we must have a document to confirm it”, continues Emmerich Knoll. Codex Wachau is more of a brief manifest that declares six main principles of work — strictest control of origin, bans on additives, artificial concentration, aromatisers or breaking wine into fractions. The last principle says “Nature and nothing else” and summarises all Vinea Wachau activities.

The association offers own classification that categorises wine by levels of alcohol. The most valuable is Smaragd category that contains over 12.5% of alcohol. The other categories are Federspiel (11.5 — 12.5% of alcohol) and Steinfeder (up to 11%).

Kremstal vineyards are tucked between Wachau and Kamptal. This region, known for Gruner Veltliner wines, as several points of attraction. One of them is geological. In the eastern part of Kremstal there is a 6-kilometre long loess foundation, third largest in the world. In Germany a famous Kaiserstuhl vineyard grows on a similar formation (second largest). There are two other production zones in Kremstal — western with gravel, clay and conglomerates, and hills consisting of primary rock.

Krems is the capital of the region and one of the oldest wine centres of Austria. Naturally, it has own wine museum and also a leading wine school that was founded in 1875. The city hosts an annual professional fair for Lower Austria wines.

There are several estates of historic and cultural importance in Kremstal. Model Winzer Krems cooperative that owns half of the region’s vineyards, recently invested 11 mln. euros in production equipment and opened a tourist centre. Lenz Moser, the largest and most important Austrian winemaking company, still keeps thousand-year-old cellars in Rohrendorf. Stift Gottweig, a Benedictine monastery, is open for visits not far from Krems. It boasts spectacular panoramic views of Kremstal and vineyards. If you are lucky, you can also have a discussion with the monks about relation between wine and theology in a very modern restaurant catering for external guests.

Gruner Veltliners in Kremstal are more open for understanding than their austere brothers in Wachau. They feature soft fruit with citrus, peach and apricot notes and expressive nuances of white ground pepper. Riesling on stone terraces gives fine, elegant wines. As proved by vertical tastings, both grapes give long-lived wines which accurately reflect qualities of the vintage and the terroir. The best introduction to Kremstal wines can be found in Weingut Malat, Winzerhof Fam. Dockner, Weingut Proidl, Weingut Salomon-Undhof.

The largest of the three winemaking regions, Kamptal lies around Lagenlois. The best known area is sun-baked Heiligenstein hill which is historically known as Hell’s Rock. Granite slopes with vineyards directly face the south and are ideal for growing Riesling. According to Ludwig Hiedler of Weingut Hiedler, these wines always have bones. that is structure, and power.

Heiligenstein is not the only famous terroir in Kamptal. Kaferberg, Gaisberg and Schenkenbichl vineyards are also very respected — each one coming with their particular soils and wines. In general, Kamptal reputation is based on Gruner Veltliner that gives rich wines with fine acidity and pronounced mineral character thanks to slightly drier climate. In the daytime warm air from Danube’s southern plain goes up the valley of River Kamp that cuts Kamptal from north to south. During the nights cool breezes come to vineyards and terraces. Brundlmayer, Schloss Gobelsburg, Loimer, Hiedler, Hirsch wines are among the best examples of the region.

Three years ago a new wine attraction was opened near Lagenlois. The idea of Loisium came from three local winemakers. Loisium is a great combination of design and installations by American architect Steven Holl and historic wine cellars. It is equally interesting for lovers of wine, art and even music — with regular underground concerts. A stylish Loisium hotel is a convenient addition for those who wishes to stay in the very heart of Kamptal vineyards.