Travel

Wine, jamon and storks
«Cigar Clan» №5 (29) October-November 2006

“It is difficult to present gastronomic Spain abroad.

It doesn’t have a common dish that could be country’s symbol — like pasta in Italy”, complained my Spanish friend. But isn’t it an advantage when new places open a combination of landscapes and cuisine, architecture and wine to a traveler? Spain is full of such examples — one can start exploring its diversity right next to Madrid, in the region called Castilla y Leon.

After noisy, bright, sleepless Madrid Castile and Leon seems caught in a wrap of time. Along nearly empty motorways stretch brightly yellow wheat and barley fields, with scattered green isles of corn. Roads go through tiny villages where often the only evidence of life is a hand written sign “Beware of pedestrians”. Valleys, hills and plateaus change each other, opening new perspectives. Rivers are hidden behind high banks, easily discernible by luscious green growth. Such landscapes are a delight to the eye of a Russian traveler. They remind of Astrakhan steppes, Stavropol granaries and Moscow forests at once. It takes at least a week to travel through the territory of Castile and Leon. Not only because of great distances as this largest Spanish region covers a fifth part of the country — but because it is best to see it unhurriedly. There are five winemaking zones here, including famous Ribera-del-Duero, also factories producing jamon iberico and farms growing ducks and geese for Spanish foie gras. Apart from vinous and gastronomic pleasures one should mention beautifully preserved medieval towns. Storks that stopped going to Africa in winter for the past eight years have settled on many tall old buildings and create unforgettable atmosphere in Castilian towns.

White, rose and red wines are made in Castile and Leon, but region’s main success comes from the latter. Tempranillo is the most important red grape. It is differently called in each winemaking zone — Tinto Fino in Ribera-del-Duero, Tinta de Toro in Toro and so on, which often confuses consumers. Winemakers explain that it is not only a local name, but a special type of variety adapted to certain conditions. Tempranillo grows nearly on all vineyards of Castile and Leon, and it is really difficult to give one common description of it. The main key to understanding wine is to know the winemaking area.

Ribera del Duero is first in fame and prestige in Castile and Leon. It easily competes with the best Spanish vineyards, some of its wines belong to world elite. The name of Ribera del Duero is translated as ‘banks of the Duero River’. Indeed, vineyards are situated on both sides of the river that cuts a wide valley amidst Central plateau. The climate is continental. In summer the temperature regularly goes up to forty degrees, in winter — down to minus ten and lower. A relatively flat landscape is deceptive. Height above sea level is 700-850 metres, and difference between day and night temperature in summer comes to 20-25 degrees. Not many grape varieties can stand such extreme, but it is favourable for Tempranillo.

If before Tempranillo in Ribera del Duero was made into simple rose wines, now the region produces mainly red wines. The best examples have deep concentration, good body and structure without aggressive alcohol and tannins, bright fruit and velvety texture.

Before 1980s there were only two wineries in Ribera del Duero which enjoyed high reputation in Spain and abroad. One of them is legendary Vega-Sicilia which till very recently produced the most expensive wine of Spain. It is so important that is even mentioned in a school curriculum as country’s symbol. Vega-Sicilia story started a century and a half ago, and its production was based on Bordeaux principles. Vineyards were planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec which were blended with local Tinto Fino. In the middle of the 20th century Vega-Sicilia was one of the few Spanish estates that cared about quality and reputation of their products. Nowadays Vega Sicilia Unico is one of the greatest wine creations. It is aged in cellars until it reaches the peak of development. Thus the latest vintage, recently released on the market is Unico 1994.

Another famous winemaker from Ribera del Duero is Alejandro Fernandez. He got involved with wine fairly recently, some thirty years ago. Having bought bodega Pesquera in a village with the same name, Fernandez put stake on Tempranillo and won. His intensely fruity Tinto Pesquera has become one of the flagships in vinous Spain, it is even called ‘Spanish Chateau Petrus’.

In 1982 Ribera del Duero production zone acquired a status of Denominacion de Origen, that is name of controlled origin. It led to a boom, and by mid-90s the region firmly took a leading position in winemaking Spain. Pingus from Dominio de Pingus (Peter Sisseck) or Pesus from Vina Sastre (Sastre-Gomez family) became new cults. Vineyards are gradually renewed. New plants resting on trellises appear next to the old low-growing bush vines.

Ribera del Duero winemakers of the last wave are attentive not only to the land, but to market demands, too. Their interpretation of Tempranillo meets the tastes of our time and aptly preserves the character of the variety. Besides, the image of the wine is supported by excellent label designs.

To the west of Ribera del Duero lies Cigales winemaking zone. Guides usually mention it in a few lines in connection with local rose wines. It is indeed a traditional area of Rosado, yet it keeps several secrets. To start with, Cigales produces not lightly coloured, delicate wines, but those with intense colour and structure which rather remind light reds. They are made by blending red and white varieties — Tempranillo and Garnacha with Verdejo, Albillo and Viura. Secondly, rosado from Cigales is an excellent find for wine and gastronomic combinations. They match fish and meat dishes and come as a refreshing alternative to red wines, especially in warm weather.

Cigales has another, unique treasure which is getting noticed by winemakers only now. It concerns soils with particular geological structure. Fifty to hundred-year-old vines grow there. Top 30 centimetres of the surface are covered with small cobble stones, with a layer of limestone below. Such rare terroir combined with old, but utterly healthy vines bears wines with no analogies in the world. Before farmers didn’t care much about varietal purity of the vineyards and planted Tempranillo together with other red and white grapes for rosado production. Recently first red wines appeared in Cigales with Tempranillo and Garnacha from these plots vinified separately. After the tasting one can surely say that the wines will become new Spanish rarities.

In the meantime Toro, a red winemaking area that lies next to Cigales, has already attracted attention of investors. This historic wine zone has long stayed in the shadow. A drier than in other parts of Castile and Leon climate provided for a special variety of Tempranillo in Toro with smaller leaves and berries. Grape skins are thicker than usual. The local name of the grape is Tinta de Toro. In the old days it was harvested in late autumn. Alcohol content came up to 17-18 degrees, and Toro wines were among few natural red wines that withstood long transportation and storage. That is why they could be found in royal cellars and on board of ships which went to conquer the New World.

Nowadays winemakers learnt to manage the ripeness, yet Tinta de Toro will never be a variety with a low level of alcohol. Winemakers’ task is to find a balance between alcohol and other components of wine. It is actually not very difficult because Tinta de Toro is intensely fruity and has plenty of ripe tannins. Its wines are rather masculine — with good structure and foundation which are highlighted by aging in oak barrels. There are many old vineyards in Toro, and bodega Farina keeps and gathers grapes from 220-year-old vines.

Toro today is one of the most dynamic regions of quality winemaking. In the past 8 years the number of wineries bottling wine increased from eight to forty. Toro lands are in demand among the best winemakers of Ribera del Duero. Pablo Alvarez from Vega-Sicilia opened bodega Pintia. Alejandro Fernandez bought at the boundary of the region a farm where he grows grapes and other crops, has sheep and cows. Even the French got interested in the region — a famous Bordeaux entrepreneur Bernard Magrez and brothers-winemakers Jacque and Francois Lurton also make wine in Toro.

On the left bank of Duero, between Toro and Ribera del Duero lies Rueda winemaking zone. It is one of key Spanish regions to produce white wine. The climate is like in the rest of Castile and Leon, with frosts in winter and unbearable heat in summer. Flat surface has various types of geology, and the best vineyards are planted on pebble and limestone soils, former river bedrock. For centuries Palomino which was brought from Jerez and was well adapted to heat, was a leading variety. Thirty-forty years ago it was turned into fortified, sherry-like wines — oloroso, palo cortado, etc.

All changed in early 1970s when specialists of historic Rioja bodega Marques de Riscal together with influential French enologist Emile Peynaud concluded that Rueda was suited for white wine production better than other regions. Firstly, it was already home for Verdejo that was brought by Arabs in the 11th century. Secondly, by using progressive methods — stainless steel tanks and temperature control — Riscal made fresh, fruity, full bodied wines which became of one signature white wines of Spain.

Young Verdejo have flavours of tropical fruit such as grapefruit, pineapple and mango, with notes of herbs and aniseed. Wines aged in barrels acquire tones of white fruit and vanilla. One of Verdejo’s outstanding features is amazing persistency of flavour which can keep for a full minute. They also make worthy Sauvignon Blanc in Rueda — rich, spicy and with a long finish.

Castile and Leon has another winemaking area called Bierzo. It stays far from the region’s centre and borders on Galicia vineyards in the north-western part of the country. The climate is very different. It is influenced by the Atlantic Ocean and in winter reminds of England, as noted one of winemakers. Bierzo is protected by mountain chains, it has more sunlight and less rain than neighbouring Galicia. Mineral schist soils are ideals for red Mencia grape. It was brought by the Romans, but the wines haven’t left the boundaries of the region for a long while. Now Bierzo is waking up from sleep and starts attracting international attention. Alvaro Palacios, renowned Priorat winemakers, believes in a great potential of the grape and there area. He recently bought 26 hectares of vineyards and already produced first wines.

Castile and Leon gastronomic scene is full of traditions which are important both for the region and for Spain as a whole. It is a heavenly place for meat lovers. Meat is cooked in every possible way there.

The best known Spanish product, or delicacy, is jamon. There are various types of it, but best quality comes from Iberian pigs. In a little Guijuelo village near Salamanca there is Joselito factory which produces arguably the best jamon iberico in Spain. It is more difficult to make a good jamon than a fine wine — too many factors influence quality. Animal breed, habitat and diet, quality of oaks and acorns through which pigs gain the weight, climate of the place and microclimate of factory rooms, aging period and many small details known only to masters must be taken into account. Joselito jamons are reserved and prepaid two years before the product arrives to the client. A similar futures scheme is used for selling top Bordeaux wines. Jamon is aged between 24 and 30 months. The rarest and finest pieces can stay in cellars for six years.

Traditional meat delicacy in Castile and Leon is cecina de Leon, cured and smoked beef. The product has many centuries of history. It is now made at fifty factories of the region.

A curious specialty of Castile and Leon are cockerel combs. The delicacy comes from Palencia area. It is used in salads and meat dishes. Cascajares, food supplier for leading restaurants of Spain and the world recently started to make canned cockerel combs with recipes attached.

Unforgettable experience is left after Castilian asado — fire roasted meat. In Ribera del Duero it is usually a three week lechazo lamb that is roasted in open wood oven. Sometimes lechazo is the only main mean dish in country restaurants where it is served with simple salad of lettuce and tomatoes and a bottle of local red wine. A chef would personally choose meat from shepherds or butchers, sprinkle it with salt and pepper and slowly roast it teasing the neighbourhood with aromas. A crispy crust is formed outside, and inside meat becomes so tender and juicy that it simply melts in the mouth.

In Segovia province a suckling pig cochinillo is taken instead of lamb. A special mark of quality exists there to protect meat origin and quality. Roasted suckling pigs from Segovia are delicious. Meat easily comes off bones. It is so soft that waiters don’t need a knife. They use a side of the plate to cut the pig.

Cochido may be a gastronomic symbol that unites all Castile and Leon. It is a three-part dish. First a thick broth with noodles is served, then garbanzo (chick peas) and potatoes and, finally, an assortment of meat, sausages, chicken and meat balls.

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Castile and Leon austere beauty is supported by many wine and gastronomic traditions. Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero and Verdejo from Rueda, suckling pigs from Segovia and beans from Avila just as important for Castilian culture like universities of Salamanca and Roman churches of Zamora. Such attitude to life prevails in all Spanish regions and in that lies their special charm.