Travel

Luciano Sandrone: a simple story of Barolo
«Magnum» №1-2(15) January-February 2007

Luciano Sandrone is one of those winemakers who will never get used to fame.

He says that his story can be told in several words. In fact, it is better presented through wines which had conquered the world soon after the founding of the estate.

Barolos from Sandrone are called modern — they are elegant and attractive from the early years of life and do not repulse with rough, massive tannins which can be found in many wines of the area. The structure and power, though, are also in place. Like with authentic Barolos, these wines are long lived and develop slowly for decades. It would be another extreme to sign up Sandrone in the camp of avant-garde winemakers. He doesn’t like new oak for the Piedmont’s grapes and doesn’t work with barriques. The winemaker has discovered a ‘golden section’ which has also found support among fickle public of Barolo lovers. Two Sandrone wines — Cannubi Boschis and Le Vigne — are among the finest and most complex examples of Barolo, and their owners are the lucky guys.

Having started from a small estate in 1978, Sandrone gradually extended the vineyards to current 25 hectares. The most precious plots are situated in Barolo and Monforte d’Alba communes — classic areas of Barolo production. Sandrone, though, makes only one cru wine from Cannubi Boschis vineyard and prefers to have complex blends from various plots. “Single vineyards are a new tradition. Historically grapes from different parts of the estate were blended in a wine”, he says.

Barolo Cannubi Boschis has put Sandrone in the circle of leaders among the producers of the zone. It remains a jewel in his range since the first vintage in 1985. Cannubi Boschis is a well known single vineyard on a renowned Cannubi hill, right next to the town of Barolo. Sandrone owns 2 hectares and produces 11,000 bottles there.

The best reflection of the estate’s style would actually be Le Vigne. The cuvee is based on grapes from several vineyards, each one bringing their own contribution to the general character. The grapes for Le Vigne come from Barolo, Monforte d’Alba and Novello where average age of Nebbiolo vines is about 30 years. In the classic vintages, such as 1999, this Barolo impresses the taster with intense aromas of ripe cherries and violets which gain tarry notes with evolution; fundamental, yet lifted flavours with a fine balance between the depth of fruit, the velvet of tannins and refreshing acidity in between. The emotional effect from Le Vigne is comparable to that of a Burgundy Grand Cru Pinot Noir. Perhaps, it is partly explained by the fact that Sandrone draws inspiration from that great French region.

The philosophy of blending extends to the other two Sandrone wines made from Barbera and Dolcetto. Barbera d’Alba wines in Piedmont are considered as examples of honest rustic style of winemaking, but they turn into attractive, well chiseled wines, full of character and charisma in Sandrone’s hands. The grapes grow in the communes of Monforte d’Alba and Novello with an average age of the wines between 30 and 40 years.

Wines from Dolcetto are generally compared to an unpretentious French Gamay — yet at Sandrone’s they show grip, structure and depth. They are characterized by a certain seriousness even though they are not aged in oak. Dolcetto is grown at four sites in three communes with various expositions of slopes and altitude above the sea level.

The estate also produces another Nebbiolo wine — Valmaggiore Nebbiolo d’Alba, with a vineyard in the heart of Roero zone. The vineyard is particular as it lies on steep slopes where no machines can be used. Sandy soils make it possible to have a high density of planting.

Elegance, balance and ripeness of fruit are the common elements of the Sandrone style. “In order to get the best results, we have to work hard all 12 months in a year”, he says. The winemaker focuses on the ideal ripeness of grapes and low yields. He considers work in the vineyards and thorough selection as his strongest points. Having 25 hectares of vineyards, the estate makes only about 100,000 bottles of wine.

Since 1999 the wine is made at a new winery that was built on the basis of a rational design that combines respect for traditions and innovative technologies. The distinctive feature of the winery is a clear functional division between all facilities. Each stage of the vinification undergoes in a separate hall, starting from alcoholic and malolactic fermentation and finishing with aging and storage of wines. The wine is moved with gravitational forces. A unique ventilation system is used which follows the outer perimeter of the building and is capable of pumping huge volumes in a short time. It was Sandrone who put forward the idea, having been tired of problems with humidity and fungi in other places where he previously worked. The facilities and equipment are impeccably clean — that’s another big thing about the winery.

As for the vinification methods, grapes from each plot are fermented separately. Sandrone prefers a shorter maceration in comparison with the traditional Barolo practice. Dolcetto spends all the time in stainless steel vats. Malolactic fermentation and further aging of Barbera and Nebbiolo undergo in 500-litre French oak tonneaux in the cellars hidden 5 metres under the ground.

Sandrone still remembers his debut at Vinitaly in 1981 where he presented his first Barolo. The total number of bottles was only fifteen hundred. In a quarter of a century his estate has firmly established itself among the elite producers of Barolo and Piedmont. Sandrone sees only one reason for success. “Each year the story is repeating and each year it is the story of quality”, he says.