Travel

Wines of three presidents
«Magnum» №4(17) April 2007

Presidents of the wine consortia are important people who have influence on the progress of winemaking zones under their management.

But how authoritative are they in production of wine in their own estates? Eleonora Scholes visited three leading Tuscan areas — Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino to find out.

Marco Pallanti’s story is probably the best dramatic action based on the epochal events in Chianti Classico in the last quarter of a century.

Twenty five years ago a young winemaker arrived in Castello di Ama. It was then a little known estate, although its founders (four Roman families) had very ambitious plans. Relating their ideas to the ones practiced in the region in that period of time, we can say that a heroic goal was set for Pallanti — to get to the essence of Sangiovese and turn it into wine with a fine reflection of Castello di Ama terroirs. “We were working in the direction of quality”, that’s how the winemaker summed up his activities in the first years. He spared no resources to understand potential of the vineyards. He started with a detailed zoning of plots and a research of Sangiovese maturation processes. That’s how Pallanti later determined the best vineyards for a great Tuscan variety. Working with different Sangiovese clones and initial replanting of 23 hectares, as well as introduction of superior training systems were at the base of future success for Castello di Ama wines. The winemaker also experimented with untraditional Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir and planted them as alternatives on the plots unsuitable for Sangiovese.

The state of affairs in Castello di Ama in the eighties was in stark contrast to a general winemaking situation in this part of Tuscany. Historic Chianti Classsico zone where the estate is located was then a subzone of a general Chianti appellation. Philosophy and production norms didn’t encourage and even punished quality winemaking. The Black Rooster consortium that defended the idea of historic Chianti Classico label, didn’t possess real power. The zone was controlled by the Department of Commerce.

In the light of this situation the estate chose to leave the consortium in 1992 and to work independently. Nonetheless, Pallanti never rejected the idea of Chianti Classico as a great wine production zone. “I believe in the link between the bottle and the soil where grapes were grown. Each soil can give a different kind of wine. If you don’t understand where the wine was born, it’s impossible to understand the wine. You have only an aesthetic concept on which wines of the New World are based”, declares Pallanti. At the same period, in the mid-nineties Castello di Ama label was born — a flagship wine made of Sangiovese. According to the winemaker, it has always had a double stamp — that of Castello di Ama estate, as well as of Chianti Classico zone.

By the beginning of this century Pallanti and his estate have achieved everything to dream of — the possibility to make single vineyard Sangiovese (Vigneto Bellavista, Vigneto La Casuccia) along with Castello di Ama wine, as well as wines from other varieties (L’Apparita, Il Chuiso, Al Poggio); an enviable international reputation; regular high marks and praise from critics and the press; a prestigious “Enologist of the year” title from Gambero Rosso guide in 2003. Castello di Ama estate has also become a cult art-place that gathers masters of the modern art and gives them ideal conditions for creative work.

In the meantime Chianti Classico has also undergone major quality changes connected with statutory and practical winemaking issues. Establishment of new Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico in 2005 and its empowerment to manage and control vineyards of the zone with the general trend towards quality winemaking have convinced Marco Pallanti to return to the organization. The next unexpected turn of events was his election as president of the consortium in summer last year. “After the consolidation of the denomination I believed it was very important to enter the new consortium and to work for the community. And the surprise, if you want, was my election to be president. Anyway, this is a very important role which I believe will help to turn Chianti Classico into a strong force”, says Pallanti.

Answering the question if he feels extra pressure for his wines to perform in light of Pallanti’s new status, the winemaker notes, “I think the job I did in Castello di Ama is important for the consortium because what I said, I did. I am the winemaker first of all and this is the most important thing. For this reason I am a little bit worried because there is a pressure of responsibility before other producers. This is the thing, and I have to work.”

Pallanti has already made a progress in changing mentality of the estates towards a joint work. “The flags of individual estates are too small if we want to go to another part of the world. It is better if you arrive with a big name of Chianti Classico, all together — this is the most important thing. In the past we didn’t always work well in this direction, but the situation is changing”.

Another important initiative under the presidency of Marco Pallanti is a large scale project for research of landscapes, soils and best winemaking practices in Chianti Classico. The project may lead to a formal classification of the zone’s vineyards. If it is successful, it will certainly be enough to place Pallanti’s name in the annals of the modern history of Chianti Classico — in the same way like his figure is already synonymous with the renowned Castello di Ama estate.

Massimo Romeo has been head of Consorzio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano for the past three years. He’s been making wine since 1984 when he bought an estate which now bears his name.

Romeo is the native of Montepulciano. He remembers that in the past the walls of the castle — the venue of all major consortium’s events — housed a secondary school. He was one of its students. Later Romeo studied law, but didn’t finish education. He returned home and started to work in agricultural business. Before the eighties agriculture was a traditional specialization of this Tuscan region, and the main products were grain, forage and Chianina beef.

Then Montepulciano witnessed a gradual turn towards vineyard expansion. At present winemaking is the major activity in the area, with 75 percent of total agricultural production. As Romeo notes, Montepulciano was luckier than other parts of Tuscany: increase in winemaking area did not destroy local landscapes. “I have a painting from early 18th century where Montepulciano lands are pictured. If you compare it with modern photographs, you see that the landscape has changed little”, says the president. The new generation of businessmen didn’t forget about the link with the soil: whereas winemaking in Montepulciano is a profitable business, wine is still closely connected with local terroirs.

Romeo bought an estate in the mid-eighties and is since devoted to growing grapes and olives. His 6-hectare vineyard is one of the smallest in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano denomination. Romeo’s philosophy is built on continuing tradition. Only autochthonous varieties are cultivated — from Prugnolo Gentile (local name for Sangiovese), Colorino and Mammolo for red wines to Malvasia, Pulcinculo and Trebbiano Toscano for vinsanto.

Romeo vineyards differ from other parts of Montepulciano through unusually high gravel content. Together with an excellent exposition to the sun, they give unique aromas, solid structure and elegant palate to the wines. Since 1992 Massimo Romeo practices organic wine growing without chemical fertilizers and pesticides. His estate is fully certified. For the past 8 years Andrea Mazzoni has been consultant-enologist. He helped to fine tune the aromas, intensify the colour and give the wines a more modern image.

Romeo’s main production is concentrated around Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine which is aged in small barrels for 2 years and then in bottles for 6 months. The blend proportions don’t change for Riserva dei Mandorli (85% Prugnolo Gentile, 10% Colorino, 5% Mammolo), but the wines are kept in bigger barrels with a longer period of rest in bottles (one year). Romeo produces a limited amount of Lipitiresco — Vino Nobile with a fantasy name for which the best Prugnolo grapes are selected. The range also includes Rosso and Vinsanto di Montepulciano, the latter stays for at least 12 years in the cellars of the estate. Total production is only about 20,000 bottles.

Massimo Romeo remembers that his election as president of the consortium gave him a great satisfaction and acknowledgement of his work, despite a small size of his estate. Yet, he never used his official position to promote own wines and never chose them for formal receptions and events.

During the period of his leadership Vino Nobile di Montepulciano zone continued to expand, both in number of members of the consortium and in volume of production. At present 233 estates are members, their vineyards cover over 90 percent of the area. Like in Chianti Classico, the consortium recently became the main controlling body for production in the entire denomination. Romeo sees two reasons of the increasing popularity of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano — generally rising standards of the area and an excellent ratio of price and quality. His actions as president have undoubtedly played a big role in the process.

While presidents of Chianti Classico and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano can plan work for several years ahead, the duration of Filippo Fanti’s presidency expires in the end of spring. He was head of Consorzio Brunello di Montalcino for nine years, and this was the period of powerful consolidation and prosperity of the renowned winemaking area.

Today the producers’ association represents a unique case in Italy as all 250 wineries are members of the consortium. This collective force has built a strong and prestigious brand of wine which is now represented among the best names in the world fine winemaking. “It is true that our producers take different approaches and make individual wines, but the most important thing is a joint effort in promoting Brunello di Montalcino name. This is where we make difference”, states Fanti.

During these nine, “very long”, according to the president, years the winemaking area of Montalcino witnessed change in many spheres, from technical to commercial. Firstly, methods of cultivation have changed. They now include new ways of planting and modern techniques in the vineyards. Changes also touched the aging time of Brunello di Montalcino wine in wood which decreased from three to two years. Finally, successful promotion of Brunello di Montalcino label on domestic and foreign markets allowed winemakers to employ a policy of premium pricing. “We never forget about our great tradition, yet the way forward is possible only by looking at Brunello in a modern way, especially for the image”, stresses Fanti.

His own Fanti — Tenuta San Filippo estate has been in the hands of the Fanti family for over 200 years. The history of quality wine production, though, started only with Filippo’s arrival in 1980. In the same year Brunello di Montalcino received the highest DOCG status (controlled and guaranteed name of origin), first in Italy, and saw the flow of new capital and investment. In the nineties Fanti has considerably expanded the vineyard area from 8 to current 50 hectares.

Fanti — Tenuta San Filippo vineyards lie in an amphitheatre on the southern slopes near the famous Sant’ Antimo monastery. Another part of the property is on steep hills running down to the Valley of Orcia River. Vines grow at the altitude between 150 to 430 metres above sea level. Thanks to marly soils with a stony topsoil and a good difference of day and night temperatures Fanti’s Brunello combines full body and intensity with an elegant character of fruit. The range includes Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino and also white, red and sweet wines under Sant’Antimo DOC. Along with winemaking, the estate continues an old tradition of olive oil production, with 8,500 trees in olive groves.

Fanti recalls that by the time he became president his wines had already been established in the market and had won medals in prestigious competitions. However, for him like for other producers, the most important was attention to Brunello di Montalcino name. Fanti considers work with all producers of the zone as his main achievement and a thing of special pride — “our consortium is unique”. He also values creation of high reputation for Brunello di Montalcino wines all over the world.

The president is smiling when he talks about free time after the end of his term. “The winery is big and there is always a lot of work there. I also need to manage a big team where nearly all, including my wife, two daughters and the enologist are women”. It shouldn’t be a problem for Fanti, though, as he has already proved to be a wise leader. The main argument is the undisputed authority of Brunello di Montalcino, one of the key symbols of great Italian winemaking.