Travel

Chile experience: part 3
5 October 2009

Limari

After the tasting we set off to the Limary Valley, 400 km north of Santiago. A very long journey by car was made easier thanks to an excellent motorway A5 which connects the country from the north to the south (together with other main motoways it is now privately managed which means it is a toll road) and continuously changing gorgeous mountain landscapes and an occasional ocean view.

The Limari Valley is the last (relatively) fertile region before the Atacama desert. We were fortunate to see the valley in spring when it was touched by fresh green colours of young grass and leaves. Climatically, in fact, the area is considered semiarid with 80-100 mm of rain at most. Why, in this case, is the Limari Valley considered a potentially important place for Chilean winemaking? The reason is the proximity of the ocean. Thanks to a cold oceanic current the coastal area has moderate temperature. The Limari Valley stretches from west to east, and in the western partaverage maximum temperature in January (the hottest month in Chile) doesn’t reach 26 degrees. Thanks to these climatic conditions the area is classified as cool climate for winemaking.

Before the 1990s Limari (or rather its hotter part, the furthest from the ocean) was known for growing grapes for a local spirit Pisco. In 1993 Vina Francisco de Aguirre was the first to plant vines in the cooler coastal belt for quality winemaking. Others followed, and today over 800 hectares of vineyards in the Limari Valley are designated for wine production.

Tamaya winery, our destination in Limari, started its wine operation as a grape supplier for Vina Francisco de Aguirre. First vineyards were planted in 1997, the winery was built in 2001 and since 2002 wines are bottled under Tamaya brand. Growing fruit is the second most important source of revenue. According to chief winemaker Jose Pablo Martin, there the property is 4,000 hectares of which 900 ha are fruit orchards (cherimoya, papaya, citruses and pomegranates) and olive groves, and 160 ha — vineyards.

The first thing that caught my eye on the arrival was a display of big old clay vessels, similar to Georgian kvevri. They were apparently used in old times for fermenting and aging wines. Now, together with several old winemaking instruments they form a small open air museum collection.

One of the highest points of the visit, both literally and figuratively, was experiencing the panorama of the Limari Valley and Tamaya vineyards from the top of the hill (the highest point in the valley which is located on the property; Tamaya means high outlook in the local Indian dialect). The Limari Valley is narrow by Chilean standards, around 40 km wide, with Coastal range on one side and the Andes — on the other. Here you can see general view of the valley.

Tamaya is 18 kilometres away from the ocean. The microclimate is formed by soft, cool breezes and sharp temperature differences between day and night. Clear blue sky (over 300 sunny days) and no rain in spring and summer make it easy to grow grapes and give a winegrower freedom to choose without fear appropriate picking dates.

Poor soils are broadly presented by two types — stony colluvial slopes of granitic origin and flat alluvial terraces with large stones. To show soil structure, Chileans often open the earth on the vineyards. Such pits are called calicatas. Here are, for example, soils found at the Chardonnay vineyard: top layer of soft clay with chalky ocean sediment and rocks rich in iron and other elements. A huge pile of stones excavated when soils were being prepared for planting vines give a good idea how poor the terrain is (and how good it is for quality wine production).

Water is another key factor. Due to relative distance of the Andes water has to be collected through a complex system of canals and reservoirs. On the vineyards it is distributed through controlled drip irrigation.

A dozen of red and white varieties can be found at Tamaya vineyards: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Gewurztraminer, Muscat of Alexandria (for sweet wine), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese and soon Pinot Noir. The training system is trellis, and density is 5,000-5,500 plants per hectare. Grapes are hand picked and delivered to the winery which is built next to the vineyards.

The winery interior is functional and unadorned — a spacious vinification area, two cellars for barrel agin and an area for bottling, packaging and storing bottled wine. Since 2006 the chief winemaker is Chilean (but hard to guess by appearance) Jose Pablo Martin, with working experience in France and Chile and visits in other winemaking regions. Consulting enologist is Felipe de Solminihac, one of four partners of the famed French project in Chile Vina Aquitania.

Jose Pablo comes from a family with winemaking tradition (his grandfather admittedly specialised more in Pisco than wine). He has good taste and understanding how to make fresh, balanced, mineral wines. There are four ranges, from basic varietal to special reserve and winemaker’s choice lines. The issue here, though, is that not all varieties are well adapted to local conditions. As the tasting showed, best results in this cool climate area come from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah (I keenly wanted to taste my favourite Italian grape Sangiovese, but unfortunately couldn’t). If the estate focuses further efforts on these varieties and, possibly, on Pinot Noir that will be planted this year, the future of Tamaya wines will be bright.

Currently Tamaya produces 45,000 cases (9 litres), or 540,000 bottles. The goal is to almost double the production to achieve 80,000 cases, or 960,000 bottles.

Below is the tasting report. I marked in bold the most exciting wines.

Sauvignon Blanc 2009
12% alcohol, vinification in stainless steel tanks, screwcap. Lifted fresh nose with nuanced aromas of gooseberries, grapefruits and peaches. Fresh citrusy palate with soft integrated acidity, clean, persistent. “Our idea is to pick grapes at the right time. We need to be careful not be too much on the tropical side”, says the winemaker. 85

Chardonnay 2009
13,5% alcohol, screwcap. Pure, soft aromas of green apples. Fresh, soft flavours of apples and citruses, light spices, medium body. Spicy finish with good length. 85

Chardonnay Reserva 2008
14% alcohol, 50% of wine was aged in barrels (90% French, 10% American) for 7 months, then in bottles. Pleasant butter-and-vanilla aromas with citrusy freshness, palate with good volume, fresh and citrusy, well balanced, yet oak takes upper hand. Pleasant, long finish with some minerality. 87

Sauvignon Blanc Winemaker’s Selection 2008
12% alcohol, 15-20% of wine fermented in used barrels. “The idea is to have integration. As soon as oak aromas appear in the wine, it is removed from barrels”. Refined, nuanced, leafy aromas, well integrated. Palate is full, fresh, wonderfully balanced, soft leafy flavours, spicy, mineral. Finish is lenthy, full, green spectrum and minerality. 88

Chardonnay Winemaker’s Selection 2008
13% alcohol, grapes come from single vineyard Quebrada Seca, which grows on calcium rich colluvial soils. Half of the wine is fermented and aged in French barrels. The final blend is 90% wine from barrels, 10% — from steel vats. Deep, elegant wine with fresh, full, integrated, mineral flavours and light spice. Excellent length. Very appealing. Next step to perfect the wine is to work on its texture. 88

Merlot — Sangiovese 2008
14% alcohol, 85% Merlot, no oak, separate fermentations, Sangiovese undergoes carbonic fermentation. Clean fruity nose, juicy cherries. The palate is fresh, clean, lively, fruity. 84

Carmenere 2008
13,5% alcohol, no oak. Rustic, angular Carmenere that along with fruit features greenness and alcohol warmth. Not the best grape for Limari. 83

Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
13,5% alcohol, no oak. Bright fruity aromas, fresh palate with red and black fruit, unpolished tannins. Unremarkable. 83

Carmenere Reserva 2008
13,4% alcohol, after fermentation free run wine was aged 9 months in barrels, final blend is half free run, half pressed wine that stayed in steel. Cheese rind and ripe fruit in aromas, palate of medium intensity, ripe fruit, yet hard-ish tannins, warm finish. 85

Syrah Reserva 2008
95% Syrah, 5% Viognier. 13,3% alcohol. Starting from 2007 two varieties are co-fermented, the rest of vinification is the same like in Carmenere Reserva. Attractive, lifted, nuanced, floral nose, with great appeal. Palate if elegant, fresh, flowers and dark fruit with a pinch of ground pepper, velvety tannins. Deep, persistent finish. Evocative of the Northern Rhone style. 89

Merlot — Cabernet Sauvignon — Syrah Reserva 2007
Merlot 50%, Cabernet Sauvignon 35%, Syrah 15%. 13,5% alcohol. Barrel aging for 11 months, final blend is assembled with equal parts of barrel and tank wines. Elegant wine with good structure, medium depth and clean fruit. Finish is warm, linear, needs further work. 87

Syrah Winemaker’s Selection2008
3% Viognier. 13,5% alcohol. Elegant, nuanced yet intense nose of black fruit overlaid with wild herbs. Excellent deep structure, ripe fruit and typical Syrah pepperiniess, grippy tannins, oak is still slightly exaggerated but will calm down and integrate. Persistent finish. Excellent potential. 90