|
Travel
 Chile experience: part 5
6 October 2009 Santiago / Cachapoal / Colchagua Vienna is proud to have vineyards around the city. Santiago, in turn, can boast one of the oldest Chilean wineries that operates within the city boundaries. In the late 19th century Santa Carolina vineyards were growing next to the colonial house and winery, but later the city claimed precious lands. That’s why today Santa Carolina historic houses and winery buildings are located on one of Santiago streets, two blocks away from the metro.
A visit to Santa Carolina can be rather exciting from the historic and architectural perspectives. The colonial house with a pretty inner courtyard featuring a very long palm tree and the adjoining garden are used for business meetings or special events, such as a wedding reception.
I was most impressed by old vaulted cellars with hundreds of barrels — we met a worker who was dusting them. The underground cellars enjoy constant natural temperature and humidity. Brick walls and ceilings were set with a help of egg yolks. Above the ground there are several historic vinification rooms with old vats, barrelsand other instruments. This is a fantastic industrial vintage style of architecture with a space ideally suitable for an avant-garde art exposition. The estate’s historic buildings were constructed between 1877 and 1898 and are listed as a Chilean national monument.
Today Santa Carolina is no longer a family winery that was once lovingly named after his wife by founder Luis Pereira. Today it is part of Carolina Wine Brands, one of the largest Chilean wine holdings with four wineries in Chile and one in Argentina. The holding owns over 2,000 hectares, and annual sales account for over 24 million bottles. Santa Carolina and Vina Casablanca are the most important in terms of prestige. We were offered to taste wines from these wineries.
Wines are made to suit a certain flavor profile which, I am afraid, is not my favourite. They are often over-extracted and oaky, overshadowing natural fruit and not letting them express themselves. But the customer is the king, and if Santa Carolina successfully sells their ranges around the world it means that its marketing department is doing its job well.
Vina Casablanca Nimbus Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley 2009
Vina Casablanca is a boutique winery, according to PR manager Magdalena Sosa. The ranges start from Reserva level (there is no official definition, but it usually means higher quality in comparison with entry-level wines). The Casablanca Valley is cool climate, a cool ocean breeze blows even at the peak of the day. Vineyards grow on five soil types. Nimbus is the top range, 7,000 bottles of Nimbus Sauvignon Blanc are produced. Brilliant straw colour. Intense aromas, though not pungent, combining green vegetal and honeyed aromas. Sharp acidity, tropical fruit and citruses on the palate. 85
Santa Carolina Reserva de Familia Chardonnay Casablanca Valley 2007
Historically Reserva de Familia was varietal Cabernet Sauvignon. Today the range includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere and Chardonnay. The Chardonnay vineyard grows on white clay. Wine is fermented and aged in French barrels. Sweet caramel and vanilla on the nose, too extracted, with bitterness, medium length. 84
Vina Casablanca Cefiro Pinot Noir Casablanca Valley 2008
Cefiro is a range of Vina Casablanca ‘terroir’ wines. Brilliant cherry colour. Linear, simple cherry aromas. Cherry flavours are lacking intensity, and the wine is rather extracted, wiht bitterness and alcohol warmth. 83
Vina Casablanca Nimbus Merlot Colchagua Valley 2007
The wine feels warm even when served at a cooler temperature. Medium intensity, lively fruit, marred by oak. 85
Vina Casablanca El Bosque Carmenere Rapel Valley 2007
Intense ruby-violet. Sweet fruity aromas with spice and alcohol warmth. Medium intensity, black fruit, almondy bitterness, woody notes are not connected with the fruity ones. Full, abrupt finish. 86
Vina Casablanca Neblus Casablanca Valley 2007
Top wine, 90% Syrah, 10% Merlot. Certain depth on the nose, pure blackberry and black fruit aromas, floral nuances and spices, but, again, burns. The palate is intense, black fruit, with a claim for elegance, fresh, yet the texture is unpolished, oaky-toasty, drying tannins. Good length. 88
Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Petit Verdot Rapel Valley 2007
Santa Carolina was the first in Chile to produce 100% Petit Verdot. The issue is though how justified such varietal wines are. Heavy aromas of black fruit and balsamic, heavy palate without freshness, hard tannins, rough texture and little balance. 81
Santa Carolina Reserva de Familia Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley 2007
Two bottles were opened, both had technical faults. /
Santa Carolina Reserva de Familia Carmenere Rapel Valley 2007
Intense aromas of red and black fruit. Fresh, structured, extracted palate, with elegance, intense fruit and nuanced spice, dusty tannins. Full, persistent finish. 89
Santa Carolina VSC Maipo Valley 2007
Though the wine was included in the list, PR manager Magdalena Sosa refused to offer it for tasting.
***
During our weekly stay in Chile we had several exciting and memorable visits, but the ultimate Chilean experience was at Altair. The ambitious winery aims to produce Chilean wines at Grand Cru level, and one senses this determination in every detail.
Altair is situated in the Upper Cachapoal Valley at the foothills of the Andes. We saw that the area is home to many wineries. Altair’s advantage is that the vineyards are partly located on the slopes whereas other wineries’ vines grow on flat plains. The winery owns 155 hectares, of which 72 are planted to vineyards. They are protected by high hills on three sides, and the fourth faces the plain.
For the estate’s panorama and vineyard survey, we set off on our horses. Chief agronomist Rene Vasquez admits that he usually drives a motorbike around the vineyards, but horses are commonly used by Chilean winegrowers. As for us, we were thrilled to try an alternative transport. Dressed in hats and suede chaps, we almost looked like Chilean huasos. By the way, horse riding is organized for anyone who books the service in advance.
Altair was founded in 2001. San Pedro wine group, one of two initial founders, selected one of its best locations for the project. Here’s the video with the estate’s general view. Vineyards were planted in the nineties, and now they are mature enough for yielding high quality grapes. The valley’s conditions are particularly favourable for planting red varieties, which is also in line with the Altair’s philosophy. The estate cultivates Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Carmenere, Petit Verdot and Sangiovese.
Rene Vasquez revealed some interesting facts about the quality of the plants. Cabernet Sauvignon is a dominant variety in the vineyards, obtained through massal selection. Around25 years ago UC Davis researchers took with them cuttings of old Cabernet vines, cleaned them from viruses and started to propagate them for commercial use. Thus, improved descendants of the old Cabernet are now growing on the own roots in Altair. According to the chief agronomist, they yield particular power, intensity and complexity.
The microclimate has a sharp difference between day and night temperatures, and it is slightly cooler here at the peak of the day than further in the valley. Soils on the slopes are of volcanic origin. The flat plain has a mix of alluvial and colluvial (from the mountains) stony soils. Rene Vasquez took us to a calicata (a pit in the vineyard) where he explained the difference between river and mountain stones. You can watch it here.
Before the winery visit and the tasting we had lunch al fresco, and I must remark on excellent matches between wine and food, as well as the stunning vista. The lunch was prepared by French chef Arnold Petizon who seemed content both with his life in Chile and the variety and superb quality of local products.
Now some words about the winery. Firstly, it is impressively designed by Chilean architect Samuel Claro who placed a long, low lying rectangular building from local stone against a high hill. The entrance features an original stone installation dedicated to the Eagle constellation and its brightest star Altair that was chosen as the winery’s name. The stone is hollow, and a bottle of Altair 2002, maiden vintage, is hidden inside.
Gravitational forces can be naturally used for moving wine thanks to the winery’s location on the slope. In fact, half of the inner space is hidden underground. The winery is stuffed with expensive equipment, from a vertical press to wooden fermentation vats each having a price of a Ferrari. As can be expected, the aging cellar contains only French oak barriques.
The concept of Altair is based on a Bordeaux model that was implemented by partners Guillermo Luksic (San Pedro) and Laurent Dassault (Saint-Emilion’s Chateau Dassault) from the very beginning. Dassault recently left the project, but the French influence remains strong thanks to Bordeaux consultant Pascal Chatonnet. Chief winemaker is Ana-Maria Cumsille who has to look after wine on a daily basis. Ana-Maria had a baby a few days ago, but will hopefully be back in the winery soon.
The range consists of two wines in line with traditional Bordeaux hierarchy of the grand and second vin. They are, accordingly, Altair and Sideral. First vintage was 2002. Commercial director Felipe Bravo prepared for us complete vertical tastings 2002-2005 of both wines. The greatest impression after the tasting is that the wines possess consistently outstanding, refined style which reflects both terroir characteristics and vintage variations. Both wine certainly put forward a valid argument that Chile has potential for producing world-class wines. Altair and Sideral are Cabernet dominated blends, but Sideral is made to be enjoyed earlier. The label for Altair is created by a leading Chilean artist Samy Benmayor whose small exhibition with the original drawing for the label can be viewed at the reception.
I was impressed by all wines, but in particular with vintages 2002 and 2005. Wines were decanted approximately 5 hours before the tasting.
Sideral 2002
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, the rest is Carmenere, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese.
Cherry-ruby colour. Intense, vibrant aromas, ripe fruit are coming from a good depth. Palate is full, structured, mouthcoating grainy tannins, bright spice, tannins still haven’t completely softened. Black toast and chocolate in the persistent finish with an excellent length. Still haven’t reached the peak of development. 89
Sideral 2003
84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, the rest is Syrah and Sangiovese. Starting from this vintage the presence of new oak is getting less. Very warm vintage. Carmenere was especially good and was used only in Altair.
Red cherry colour. Intense aromas gravitating towards red fruit, also floral and fine leather nuances. More open and developed than 2002. Palate is fresh, slightly lighter than previous vintage, red fruit and cassis, on a fruity side, also chocolate, young tannins. Finish is full, staying, chocolaty. At present this vintage is more open and appealing than 2002, yet its’ potential for further development shouldn’t be undermined. 89
Sideral 2004
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, the rest is Carmenere, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc and Syrah.
The nose is deep, but reticent at this stage, aromas of black fruit with savoury notes, fine leather and local vegetation. Supple, juicy palate with Syrah spiciness, young tannins. Persistent finish with red fruit and chocolate. 89
Sideral 2005
87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Carmenere
Wine is too young, the nose features immediate pure fruit and eucalyptus. Palate is fresh, gorgeously elegant yet intense. Pure fruit, grippy tannins, excellent length. A stylish wine, the baby of its place, still too young. 90
Altair 2002
86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Carmenere, 7% Merlot
Dark cherry with red rim. Deep, nuanced, intriguing nose with a wide aromatic spectrum from dark fruit, licorice and balsamic at the base to lifted nuances of strawberries and fine leather. Palate is aristocratic, fresh, complex, cassis meeting balsamic, eucalyptus, chocolate, velvety texture. The finish is lingering, with light tannic dryness. A genuine Chilean Grand Cru. 94
Altair 2003
71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Carmenere, the rest is Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc
Aromas of red and black fruit open reluctantly, they are more linear. Palate is fresh, juicy, more immediate, than previous vintage, with red and black fruit, ripe tannins. Finish is very spicy, persistent, with very good length. Oak presence is still strong but should soften with time. 92
Altair 2004
73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah, 11% Carmenere, 1% Cabernet Franc
The nose is very dense, with high concentration of black fruit. The palate is fresh, supple, harmoniously balanced, pure primary ripe black fruit, fine grippy tannins, persistent finish. Another top notch wine. 93
Altair 2005
85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Syrah, 3% Carmenere
The wine at the beginning of its glorious life. At present there are nuanced, seductive primary aromas of red and black fruit, spices and chocolate. Palate is impeccably balanced, continues the aromatic line; powerful, ripe and deep tannic structure brings to a full, never-ending finish. I very much hope to taste this wine after several years of aging — it should be stunning. 94+
***
The final destination of the day was Casa Silva in Angostura. This Angostura has nothing to do with famous bitter. Its name is translated from Spanish as a narrowing place to indicate that the Andes have come close to the hills before the Coastal range.
As we were running late in Altair, we came to Casa Silva at the sunset. Still, we were shown the estate’s oldest vineyards, also one of the oldest in Chile, where Bordeaux varieties are grown — Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Semillon and Cabernet Sauvignon. Vines were brought from France and planted in 1912, and they are still used for production. We also saw polo grounds (a favourite Chilean sport) hidden behind a grove of eucalyptus trees.
Angostura is the main headquarters for Casa Silva, but vineyards are also located in three other parts of the Colchagua Valley. Angostura accounts for 300 hectares, and the area is particularly favourable for red Merlot and white Chardonnay. In terms of climate, the place offers moderate conditions influenced by the Andes, with prolonged dry ripening period. Soils close to the mountains have more clay and organic matter, and there is more sand and rocky strata in the opposite direction.
Over fifty years ago the Silva family developed a vineyard 20 kilometres away from the Pacific coast in a place called Lolol. At present it is the largest of the three Casa Silva vineyard properties, it covers 350 hectares. Soils are of granitic origin, and the microclimate is known for sharp difference between day and night temperatures. Casa Silva strongly believes in the Rhone varieties there — Syrah and Viognier.
The third vineyard is at Los Lingues where the main specialisation is red Carmenere. Casa Silva does terroir research together with a Chilean university which helps better understand interaction between varying natural conditions and different grape varieties. Los Lingues vineyards cover 150 hectares. The climate is dry, and colluvial mountain soils are ideal for red varieties.
Casa Silva latest initiative is planting vineyards in cool Paredones where 20 hectares are dedicated to white Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay and red Pinot Noir. The company is especially optimistic about Sauvignon Blanc there.
I very much like Casa Silva winery where old buildings and instruments which remind about a long family winemaking history harmoniously exist next to ultra-modern steel tanks and expensive French oak barriques. There is also a fascinating collection of American and European vintage cars which nicely fill the space between vinification and aging rooms. A couple of cars from the collection can be worthy contenders at famous Italian competition Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este.
Before moving on to the tasting, I want to mention an excellent restaurant and remarkable boutique hotel which are also called Casa Silva. The dining area is divided by a glass wall from the aging cellar, and the menu offers creative Chilean cuisine with an accent on local produce. The hotel, a former family residence, preserves inimitable colonial ambiance further highlighted by a refined rustic style and genuine antique pieces.
The company range is divided between two brands — premium Casa Silva and off-trade Dona Dominga. We were offered Casa Silva range for the tasting. The wines are well made and, generally, have a soft, rounded style which makes them attractive for consumers. The most exciting for me labels are marked in bold.
Casa Silva Sauvignon Gris 2009
A specialty wine. Soft, sweet aromas of tropical and citrus fruit which are continued on a lively fresh palate with mineral notes. Frontal finish. Still too young. 86
Casa Silva Sauvignon Blanc Cool Coast 2009
Nuanced aromas in the green vegetal and citrus spectrum. Medium intensity, well made, but I find the acidity too high. For oysters and seafood. 87
Casa Silva Viognier Lolol 2008
Vineyards on the Coastal range slopes, but not on the ocean side. The temperature is higher than on the coast, in the afternoon breezes cross the mountains and cool the temperature. Delicate aromas of sweet apricots and white flowers. Fresh palate, attractive acidity level, apricots and lemons are underlined by a bitter note. An appealing wine. 87
Casa Silva Quinta Generacion White 2007
A blend of Chardonnay that undergoes malolactic fermentation and barrel aging, with Viognier and Sauvignon Gris. Open, intense aromas with good, complex notes of citruses, apricots and tropical fruit. The palate is deep, with interesting depth, rounded and soft, but the finish is rather short. 88
Casa Silva Carmenere Reserva 2008
Grapes are harvested in the second and third week of April. Bright nose, with intense red fruit, though simplistic. Palate is silky, fresh, quite light, with fruit and green bell pepper. Wide, mineral finish. 85
Casa Silva Carmenere Los Lingues Gran Reserva 2007
Perfumed fruity-floral aromas, the palate is fresh, spicy, fruit and chocolate, polished tannins. 87
Microterroir De Los Lingues Carmenere 2006
This is not a single vineyard, but a selection from 11 micro terroirs. Bright, intense fruity aromas which carry over to concentrated, well structured fruity palate with mineral and tarry elements. 89
Casa Silva Petit Verdot Gran Reserva 2007
Floral aromas of medium intensity, palate is fruity and spicy, with rustic tannins. 85
Casa Silva Quinta Generacion Red 2007
45% Carmenere, 27% Syrah, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. Restrained, quite deep aromas of red fruit. Fresh, dense palate with velvety tannins and alcoholic warmth. 87
Casa Silva Altura 2004
The top wine that is produced only in best years — 1999, 2001, 2003, 2004. Average production is around 6,000 bottles. Powerful, concentrated aromas of red and black fruit, eucalyptus, blackcurranty palate is heavy, with mineral notes, crushed stones and iodine, drying tannins and not enough freshness in the finish. 88
|
